Down the eat street in Sri Lanka

Step into any modest kitchen in Sri Lanka and you will find the traditional, local ingredients meeting the artful mastery of time-honoured techniques. The scent of cinnamon, black pepper fills the air with the usage of coconut, almost like a sacred ingredient.

From the northern province Jaffna’s authentic one pot Vellala recipes to the central province’s ancient rice gruelling traditions, Sri Lankan chefs honour their roots with reverence, perfecting their recipes with expert blends of herbs, vegetables, and seafood. The result? Plates that transcend mere meals into edibles that embody the soul of Sri Lanka. This rich, flavourful story—also finds a connection between Tamil and Sinhalese traditions.

A traditional Sri Lankan buffet brings the island’s culinary roots to life in the central province’s Anuradhapura. Under their humble thatched roofs, local spots like Nelum Kole Bath Kade and Rasa Gedara are popular for serving meals on lotus and banana leaves. Traditional firewood cooking continues to thrive in this part of the island.

Ruwan, who owns one such thatched-roof restaurant in Harbarana, shares, “We use the dara lipa (clay or brick hearth) fuelled by firewood, to cook meals in mati kekulu (unglazed clay pots). This helps in retaining heat and developing earthy flavours.”

Specialties like chicken kalu pol, prawns baduma, manioc leaves, and pumpkin mustard curry, topped off with kavum or aasmi for dessert are some of the dishes at the Habarana village by Cinnamon, popular among the many hotels in the central province. In the tea-rich Nuwara Eliya region, the iconic silver and gold teas are a must-try.

Pasta palate

Say hello to the new restaurant that celebrates native culture with its handmade pasta and other traditional delicacies even as it doffs its hat to South Italy’s rich gastronomic traditions. The menu is curated by renowned Chef Piccinno Vito from Lecce, in Salento (South Italy, region of Puglia) who has over 45 years of experience.

Food: The extensive menu has an interesting array of options as well as food trivia. Start with the Burrata Alla Salentina, which pairs a soft burrata cheese with ripe tomatoes, fresh basil leaves, and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. The Antipasti Frittini Veg, anassortment of Italian fried vegetables, featuring savoury aubergine balls, crispy battered vegetables, and traditional pittula whets your appetite for more.

Try Della Gioia filled with pulled chicken, smoked scamorza, La Gioia salsa, cauliflower cream, and confit tomatoes. All the pastas (egg and non-egg based) are made fresh in house and each dish is handcrafted, and made using traditional regional Italian recipes. Must-tries here are the Orecchiette Alla Barese, a handmade pasta with chili and Indian mustard greens as well as the Bucatini Amatriciana, a handmade pasta with aged pork jowl and tomato sauce.

All the pizzas use a sourdough base. In fact, the restaurant is all set to be the first one in India to be certified for their Neapolitan pizzas. Check La Gioia, made with pumpkin cream, mozzarella fior di latte, smoked scamorza, ventricina, and onion marmalade. To end your meal on a sweet note, check out Pasticciotto, a dessert from Salento made with pasta frolla and strawberry coulis.

The celebrity baker to Bollywood and beyond

Her 11 cloud kitchens across Mumbai are abundant with luscious, artisanal, seasonal, strawberry cakes this holiday season—with moist layers, and in stunning shapes—as Bunty Mahajan, the celebrity baker to Bollywood and beyond, busily lights up candles on the birthday cake of her brand, Deliciae, which completes two decades. “Careful consistency has led me to build up a faithful clientele.

There are ingredient-tasting sessions every day, to keep a strong check on the quality,” says Bunty (few know her real name is Amita), who baked the dreamy 100-kg cake for the engagement ceremony of Anant Ambani with Radhika Merchant. The ivory showstopper, arranged across nine tiers, was decorated with hundreds of wispy red flowers in keeping with the theme of the event.

Her classic, decadent cakes are a favourite with Bollywood. Model-actor Malaika Arora relishes her special bond with Bunty, from the time her son Arhaan was born 22 years ago. Filmmaker-actor Farhan Akhtar has been marking his milestone moments with her special cakes. “Perhaps a celebrity gifted a cake I made, to another, and that is how the word of mouth reference led to building a robust clientele,” says Bunty modestly.

Humble beginnings can have sweet endings. Bunty started out by selling desserts at the popular Bandra café, Out of the Blue, winning fabs with her pioneering cakes, Death by Chocolate, and Mars Haven. “These are specials that people keep asking for,” she smiles.

The colours are subtle, the finishing impeccable in the shimmying crystal-shine geode cakes. The stencil work in the fine edible lace and the finely detailed petals of every tiny, frosty rose in hundreds of clusters is perfect. “I love jewellery, and bring my passion for trinkets to the intricacy of the frosting,” she shares. Call it edible haute couture. “I am very particular about using the best quality ingredients. Immaculate, ripe fruits are a must to qualify for Deliciae,” she says.

Hits and misses

The six-year-old brand that has successfully built a loyal following in Delhi-NCR, is not scared of charting a new course. Its recent outings in Gurugram and Khan Market, prove as much, as the restaurant scores points with new additions to its menu.

Food: This is a place for those small daytime cravings. While it remains open till past midnight, head here for a late breakfast—or, early if you want (one of the few places in Khan Market to open at 8.30 am)—or, an early-evening spot to grab a bite after a round of shopping. We tried the Burrata & Co. with parma ham. It hit the spot.

The creamy fresh burrata merging with the cured meat was a match made in heaven. However, the TGR Truffle Fries, was a disappointment. The flavour of the truffle was completely missing. The Chermoula Grilled Lamb was melt-in-the-mouth, perfectly seasoned. We tried the Lamb burger that the chef suggested, but it was a miss.

Too messy and too much of barbecue sauce making it almost sweet. The place also does some wine cocktails. We tried The Millennial Spritzer, a perfect accompaniment during lazy summer afternoons. For those with a taste for sour cocktails, this is a must-try. But the one we would really recommend is the TGR Dark & Stormy with spiced rum and house-brewed ginger beer. This place is not really a lunch-dinner spot, it’s more of grab-a-leisurely-bite place.

Rating : 3.5/5

Service: The staff is a happy, smiling lot and attentive. What more could a guest ask for?

Rating : 4.5/5

Décor: The Khan Market eatery is cozy and warm, perfect for the winters. Large potted plants propped across the restaurant add a touch of serenity to the space. Bright printed cushions across plush sofas and upcycled wooden chairs lend it an easy charm.

Rating 4/5

Price: Given Khan Market atmosphere, this place doesn’t really burn a a hole in your pocket. It’s easy on the wallet at Rs 2,500 for two minus alcohol.

4.5/5

Address: The Grammar Room, 73B, Middle Lane, Khan Market

Market on the sands

Soaking in the sights, sounds and smells of the food markets of Galle, a charming European-style city in southern Sri Lanka, is immersive. The Rathgama Wella Fish Market sprawled along the beach, is a whirligig of activity at 6 am. Fishmongers are offloading the glistening maalu (‘fish’ in Sinhala) caught from the Indian Ocean.

Locals crowd and haggle over the catches of the day. “Fresh fish depends on what the boats have caught in the morning,” explains guide Chef Wijendra, F&B Director of Le Grand Galle Hotel located on a beach overlooking the UNESCO heritage site of Galle Forte. Rifling through piles of fish and mud crabs, the chef picks out the yellow-striped traveli fish, a barracuda and fresh crabs.

Back at the hotel, a live cooking demo is set up at the ocean-fronted restaurant, aptly named Blue. Onions are chopped at lightening speed and sautéed in a clay pot. Into these are gradually added pandan leaves, coconut cream, cinnamon, veniwal (tree turmeric) and other condiments. As the aroma fills the air, fish pieces are slipped in.

The dish is served with country red rice; tempered prawns, curried dhal and long beans curry. The herbaceous gotukola sambal (a salad of chopped arugula, parsley and kale) served fresh with a squirt of lemon make for a delicious accompaniment.

The three centuries old Dutch Market near Galle Fort is an explosion of colours with the freshest of produce piled high on stalls. Adding more drama to the food theatre are local farmers who bring their push carts brimming with luminous produce. Cashews, mangosteen, rambutans, wood apple, soursop, durian, the sweetest and softest custard apples as well as cashew apples vie for attention.

The flavourful legacy that lives on

Even after 77 years of Independence, royalty retains its cachet in India. Especially, the food. Bhopal’s legacy, spanning 250 years, is deeply tied to its Begums and Nawabs. The Nawabs, often on the move, favoured simple, wild-game dishes like Jungli maas and Bater korma.

“Bhopali cuisine is a fascinating blend of Afghan and Indian flavours, enriched by influences from the Narmada Valley. Known for hearty mutton kormas and kebabs, dishes like rezala and qaliya hold a cherished place in local hearts,” says Mumbai-based archaeologist and culinary anthropologist Dr Kurush F Dalal.

Says Begum Niloufer Rashiduzzafar Khan, great-granddaughter of erstwhile ruler Sultan Jahan Begum, “Our cuisine has evolved over the centuries without losing its essence.

The kitchen combines Mughlai flavours—spices like cardamom, saffron, and black pepper—with local Bhopali ingredients, such as poppy seeds. At our family’s kothi, chefs are trained by khansamas from Bramhpur to perfect these recipes.”

Many of the traditional recipes loved by the Begums continue to be a central part of the menu at, for example the Jehan Numa Group of Hotels, in the city. Director Faiz Rashid says, “These recipes have been passed down with the utmost care to preserve their original flavours.”

One such dish is the Bhopali murgh rezala, tracing its roots to the ceremonial Jashn-e-Hariyali, a monsoon festival where the Begums of Bhopal honoured the rains with this green, landscape-inspired dish. Says chef Jeewan Singh Rawat, “In Bhopal, with its abundance of water bodies and greenery, leafy vegetables like coriander were incorporated into the rezala.”

Unlike the Bengali rezala, which evolved in 19th-century Calcutta with Nawab Wajid Ali Shah’s exile, the Bhopali version uses coriander. Nandita Godbole, author of Masaleydaar: Classic Indian Spice Blends, underlines the key distinction between the two.

“A defining element of the Bengali rezala is the use of crushed poppy seed paste, combined with yoghurt and cashews to produce a rich, creamy sauce. In contrast, the Bhopali rezala uses boiled onion paste, yoghurt, and fresh coriander leaves.” Central to its distinctiveness is the secret spice blend known as rezala masala, made by local cooks.

Each chef has his own version, with the proportions meticulously safeguarded. Traditionally, the rezala was slow-cooked over a woodfire and coal in copper handis for up to 10 hours. These copper vessels, excellent heat conductors, helped retain the dish’s natural juices.

Cooks controlled the temperature by adjusting layers of wood and coal, covering the pot with a lid to create a sealed, even heat. At the peak of cooking, additional coal was added, while red-hot charcoal was placed on top to regulate heat. The Begums of Bhopal are long gone, but the flavours of the age live on.

Bhopali Murgh Rezala

Ingredients:

• 3 tbsp ghee

• 2 tbsp Rezala masala

• 1 Kg chicken

• pinch of saffron

• 4 tbsp onion, ginger and garlic paste

• 1 cup hung curd

• 3 cinnamon sticks

• 8 cloves

• 8 green cardamom

• 2 tbsp coriander powder

• 1 tsp nutmeg powder

• 1 tsp clove powder

• 1 tsp mace powder

• 1 tsp black pepper powder

• 2 tbsp lemon juice

• 3 tbsp almonds, coconut and poppy seeds paste

• 4 cups chopped coriander

• 8 green chillies

• 1 cup fried onions

• salt to taste

• water as required

• 2 boiled eggs for garnishing

Method:

Marinate the chicken with spices and yogurt overnight for deeper infusion. To make hung curd, drain whey from full-fat yogurt in a muslin cloth for 4-6 hours or overnight. Heat ghee, sauté cinnamon, cloves, and cardamom until fragrant, then add onion, ginger-garlic paste, and chicken. Stir in coriander powder, fried onions, and salt.

Add poppy seeds, almonds, coconut paste, and hung curd, mixing to a smooth blend. Prepare a separate curd mix with rezala masala, mace, clove, nutmeg, black pepper, saffron, and fried onions, then stir into the chicken. Add coriander, green chilies, water, and cook until the oil separates. In a pan, heat ghee with slit chilies and lemon juice, then add to the curry. Garnish with coriander and boiled eggs, and serve hot.

Recipe courtesy, Sr. Associate Chef, Sunil Kumar, Jehan Numa Palace

“Bhopali cuisine is a fascinating blend of Afghan and Indian flavours, enriched by influences from the Narmada Valley.”

Dr Kurush F DalaL

Boya: An eatery for the love of the sea

In a world where there are restaurants opening and closing faster than you can say artichoke, it’s a pleasure to find a cozy, yet classy place that wins the heart with each bite. Bhawya Sahu, a new entrant on the culinary scene, teams up with industry legend Chef Augusto to present a delightful combination of Japanese and Peruvian flavours.

Food: The menu yells out freshness. Most of the seafood and meats are imported. The part-open kitchen where the sushi, sashimi, nigiri and ceviches are crafted invite the patrons in. If you are a sushi and a dimsum fan, this should be your go-to place.

The chicken dimsums tantalise your tastebuds, but what steals the show is the creamy edamame dimsums—subtle and melt-in-the-mouth. And the wasabi has the right amount of kick in it. The Filipino pork belly in cane vinegar, soy and garlic is grilled to perfection. Sliced thin, the fat of the belly doesn’t leave an aftertaste.

The pan-seared snapper, brussels sprouts, asparagus, with spicy unagi reduction is tempered with a light hand, making one relish the fresh taste of the fish. The one dish that stood out—beside the edamame dimsums—is the maguro tataki, seaweeds, pickled radish, beetroot in ginger-onions. The light dressing complements the soft tuna meat.

While the restaurant has an omakase concept, one can also opt for private dining. The dark chocolate berry and miso mousse is the unbeatable star of the meal. For those who are not seafood enthusiasts, there are pizzas, pastas, risottos and even burgers. But, visit for the love of dimsums and seafood.

Service: The staff is prompt and well-versed with what’s on offer.

Décor: The interiors are done up entirely by the owners—from the marbled floors to the heavy curtains and chandeliers. The chairs are a tad uncomfortable, especially for tall people, but overall it creates an inviting ambiance.

Price: A fancy dining space like this comes at a pretty price. Expect to shell out about Rs 6,000 for two, minus alcohol.

Address: 7/48 Malcha Marg, Chanakyapuri, Delhi

Bhawya Sahu: An eatery for the love of the sea

In a world where there are restaurants opening and closing faster than you can say artichoke, it’s a pleasure to find a cozy, yet classy place that wins the heart with each bite. Bhawya Sahu, a new entrant on the culinary scene, teams up with industry legend Chef Augusto to present a delightful combination of Japanese and Peruvian flavours.

Food: The menu yells out freshness. Most of the seafood and meats are imported. The part-open kitchen where the sushi, sashimi, nigiri and ceviches are crafted invite the patrons in. If you are a sushi and a dimsum fan, this should be your go-to place.

The chicken dimsums tantalise your tastebuds, but what steals the show is the creamy edamame dimsums—subtle and melt-in-the-mouth. And the wasabi has the right amount of kick in it. The Filipino pork belly in cane vinegar, soy and garlic is grilled to perfection. Sliced thin, the fat of the belly doesn’t leave an aftertaste.

The pan-seared snapper, brussels sprouts, asparagus, with spicy unagi reduction is tempered with a light hand, making one relish the fresh taste of the fish. The one dish that stood out—beside the edamame dimsums—is the maguro tataki, seaweeds, pickled radish, beetroot in ginger-onions. The light dressing complements the soft tuna meat.

While the restaurant has an omakase concept, one can also opt for private dining. The dark chocolate berry and miso mousse is the unbeatable star of the meal. For those who are not seafood enthusiasts, there are pizzas, pastas, risottos and even burgers. But, visit for the love of dimsums and seafood.

Service: The staff is prompt and well-versed with what’s on offer.

Décor: The interiors are done up entirely by the owners—from the marbled floors to the heavy curtains and chandeliers. The chairs are a tad uncomfortable, especially for tall people, but overall it creates an inviting ambiance.

Price: A fancy dining space like this comes at a pretty price. Expect to shell out about Rs 6,000 for two, minus alcohol.

Address: 7/48 Malcha Marg, Chanakyapuri, Delhi

Coffee, Coorg and avocado

The journey from Bengaluru to Coorg is for photo albums. You are likely to spot elephants and other animals if you get lucky. The travel time of seven hours takes you through the Western Ghats, where you also cross Ramanagara, the location where Bollywood director Ramesh Sippy shot the famous Sholay. But, there’s more to it than ‘Kitne aadmi the?’

When you reach the Cottabetta Bungalow, one of the most googled vacation homes in Coorg, you can’t resist diving straight into the scrumptious Kodava cuisine. The chefs at this 140-year-old colonial bungalow will instruct you to not venture out without assistance once evening falls. You wouldn’t want to crash a leopard birthday party, right?

Popularly called the Scotland of India, Coorg is where some of the finest coffee ripens by the rays of the winter sun. But this hill station is now also home to one of the healthiest and most Insta-famous fruits—avocado. This lush-green hill station is now witnessing an avocado revolution.

India’s tropical climate and mid-to-higher elevation areas, such as tea and coffee-growing regions, offer immense potential for cultivating the fruit. Ajay TG, General Manager, Westfalia Fruit India, says, “India’s northern hemisphere seasonality complements African and South American avocado seasons.

This gives avocado cultivators lucrative opportunities for both domestic consumption and exports. We plan to see India as a self-sustained avocado-producing nation with year-round availability of local varieties.”

Apart from Coorg, some potential avocado-growing areas in India are Chilmangalur, Sakleshpur, Wayanad, Nilgiris, Valaparai, Kodaikanal, Munnar, Idukki and Araku. Fun fact: Avocado never ripens on the tree. It ripens only when you pluck it.

Education over, it’s time for an avocado milkshake. Popularly known as butter-fruit milkshake down South, the consistency of this shake is so thick that it had to be eaten using a spoon instead of straw!

Westfalia’s avocado nursery in Coorg focuses on cultivating selected rootstock, clonal, and commercial planting material to grow top-tier Hass and other commercial avocado varieties.

Recipes of the heart and home

Ask him about his favourite local Omani dish and he promptly says, “Shuwa, a slow cooked Omani goat or lamb dish. Its slow-cooked tenderness reminds me of Indian slow-cooking traditions. I also love the halwa.”

While shuwa or other Omani dishes don’t feature on the Aangan menu, Ghai insists on using as many local ingredients as possible, allowing the food to be authentic in Indian and Omani flavours.

Was Muscat ready for robust Indian tastes or did he have to tone down spice levels? “When I approach a new location, I try to find a fine balance for spice levels. While I occasionally make tweaks on special request, I don’t change recipes drastically,” he says.

Picking his favourites from the Aangan menu, Ghai chooses food that reminds him of home. “I personally love aloo tikki and keema pao. But I’m a simple man, so my go-to comfort meal after a long day is dal-chawal—it’s soothing and soul satisfying,” he says with a wide smile. Pity, the humble dal-chawal is not on the menu.

Sago Vada

Ingredients

• Sago: 350 gm

• Potato: 150 gm

• Coriander: 20 gm

• Green chilli: 10 gm

• Beetroot: 250 gm

• Ginger: 10 gm

• Cumin: 10 gm

• Roasted peanut: 75 gm

• Salt to taste

Method

• Soaked sago in fresh water for 15 minutes

• Mix soaked sago with mashed potatoes, fresh coriander leaves, chopped green chilli, roasted cumin, roasted peanuts, and salt

• Make round patties of the mix

• Deep fry till golden and crispy

“The journey to becoming a chef was less about a defined goal and more about following my passion for Indian flavours.” Rohit Ghai

Cocktail custodians

Bars in Goa are no longer content with just serving the usual cocktails. The drinks have to be innovative and memorable. Bonus points if they make for good Instagram pictures. At Goa’s newest bar, The Lab at Amaraanth, Pankaj Balachandran and his team at Countertop have created a classy space that does just that, marrying local ingredients with modern techniques to create innovative drinks.

Food: It’s a bar so the food is limited to snacky bites, and elaborate cold, and mezze, platters. There’s vada pav, and cheese chilli toast, for those midnight street food cravings. The triple cooked Patatas Bravas are a revelation, with crunchy skin, soft and lightly seasoned insides; they are definitely worth reordering.

Expectedly, the drinks here are classy and highly innovative. The main mixologist is Uttkarsh Anthwal, who will willingly walk you through his playground, giving you the chance to taste his many ferments and infusions.The standout here is Grandmom’s Curry, a cocktail version of a Goan fish curry. It has everything expected in a curry—tomato, coriander, tamarind, ginger, coconut milk—and some tequila making for an aromatic drink.

Another signature is the Red Amaraanth, which uses the local tambdi bhaji in a flavourful drink with pickled onion gin and vermouth. Those seeking mocktails can find a zero-proof version of Grandmom’s Curry, and a coconut and sarsaparilla root refresher.

Service: The aim is to offer personalised service. It does this with aplomb. Anthwal is a good host, and will take you on a personalised and well-curated cocktail journey. Stick around for his stories.

Décor: The Lab is an ideal date place, with soft lights, low but plush seating (for 20 people). The focus, expectedly, is the bar which is shadowed by an elaborate light piece. Despite the glass windows, the space offers privacy.

Price: A space this classy comes with a price. An evening for two, with food and drink, would cost Rs 5,000 (including taxes).

Address: The Lab at Amaraanth, 741/B, 2nd Fatrade, Varca, Goa

High on past, mixing with present

Sixteen33’s menu takes celebrating local to an even more microscopic level. For instance, the Ranwar extols the fact that over four centuries ago, this tiny village was surrounded by paddy fields. Oshtori’s cocktail features the indigenous Indrayani rice liqueur, gin, lemon tincture, and a mist of absinthe, “served in a clay glass with crispy rice garnish”.

Similarly, Chuim, which is the namesake to a bygone place which a posh Bandra neighbourhood today, blends white rum, sherry, coconut syrup and jasmine air “to evoke the village’s history of flower cultivation”. Other bartistes have climbed on the bandwagon.

Mumbai’s Bandra seems to be where the action is. Bandra Born, situated in the eponymous suburb promotes a cocktail menu that includes mahua—an indigenous liquor commonplace in India’s tribal belts. Often called the world’s “oldest distilled liquor”, mahua fell from grace after it was outlawed by the British in colonial India. Today, Bandra Born presents itself as “India’s first mahua-dedicated bar”.

Out east, Rajan Sethi’s contemporary dining venture AM/PM opened its doors in Kolkata with a cocktail menu that is an ode to the grand old city’s soon-to-be-discontinued trams. For instance, a cocktail from AM/PM’s menu is called Line 25 to Yesterday, and features aged rum, banana oil, mixed nuts, all-spice, vanilla and chocolate bitters. It is a homage to the city’s hawkers who sell treats on trams.

Balachandran adds that the focus on local ingredients, dishes and produce have helped his bar create a niche for itself. Crafts are not just textiles and brass, it is spirits too. “Our beverages honour Goa by working with local farms, producers and artisans to highlight regional flavours and locally-made spirits. We’re trying to promote Goa’s locally crafted spirits in our creations,” he says.

In Delhi, Ravish Bhavnani, co-founder and chief mixologist of Fig ‘n Maple, has created a cocktails menu that taps into India’s fondness for sharbats. “We took cues from our extensive travels through the country to create a refreshing new experience,” says Bhavnani, adding, “In our homes now, many traditional ingredients that were once commonplace have faded into obscurity. We’re trying to revive these forgotten treasures, such as nannari (a herb, known better as sarsaparilla or sugandhi), gond katira (tragacanth gum), palash (an edible flower) and more. We’re using them in our cocktails today.”

With Indians shedding social inhibitions even in small towns towards drinking alcohol, new cocktail projects take their inspiration from little-known native spirits and ingredients to create fabulous mixes that show the diversity of cultures and tastes.

“Our beverage programme celebrates Goa’s rich bounty by highlighting regional flavours and locally-made spirits.”

Pankaj Balachandran

Many avatars of the diva of flavours

Ritu Dalmia is the grand dame of Italian haute cuisine in India. DIVA, opened at the tun of the 21st century. It was the first serious standalone Italian restaurant in Delhi and the place to be seen with a forkful of risotto and a sip of Negroni.

It made Dalmia, its gregarious short-haired chef, a household name in the right circles of urban India. She is rarely seen not smiling, or laughing. This time, she laughs, admitting “I am the biggest liar.” A Delhi girl, she had claimed she would never open a Mumbai version. The truth is, since then she has three.

The third, DIVA, recently opened its doors at Jio World Drive in BKC, Mumbai. The first one was the Tasting Room at Good Earth, a Delhi-based home decor store in Lower Parel, in 2021. The second was Motodo, her flagship pizzeria at Jio World Drive, in 2022.

Dalmia admits to a penchant for dissimulation—such as vowing never to write a book (she has written four) or do a TV show (Italian Khana). “What can I do but hang my head in shame,” she jokes. “But with time, your thoughts, prospects, and processes change. Don’t hold me to what I say today, as it might be different tomorrow,” she adds.

The menu at DIVA is designed with shoppers in mind. It offers nutritious bowls and plates that can be enjoyed solo or shared with friends after or in between serious shopping. “I am serving all the food I would like to eat, regardless of its origin,” says Dalmia.

These include Asian bowls, Mac and Cheese, Rogan Josh, ghar ki (home-style) chicken curry, chola palak chawal, and more. “Times are changing. People are no longer concerned with a specific cuisine; they just want good food,” she elaborates.

Dalmia doesn’t plan or strategise her life or business. She operates on impulse. Growing up, she often travelled to Italy and fell in love with the cuisine and cooking. At 21, she gave up her family’s marble business to become a chef, opening her first restaurant, Mezza Luna, in Delhi in 1993. She recalls a family offering her a job as a cook at a salary of `25,000 and a room to live in.

Vino, vidi, vici in the mountains

Michael Juergens was pleasantly surprised when he went to Bhutan to run a marathon. “I was taken aback to see how fertile the valleys were. So I naturally assumed the country had wineries,” recalls the senior partner at Deloitte and a certified sommelier. Surprised to realise there weren’t any, he wrote a white paper on why and how Bhutan could grow world-class wine, and sent it to the government. The government was so interested in his proposal that it decided to donate the land and partnered with him on the project.

Juergens teamed up with Ann Cross to start Bhutan Wine Company, and work began in 2019. The fledgling company, the only outfit growing grapes and making wine in landlocked Bhutan, now has approximately 200 acres of vineyards, growing 16 different grape varietals—nine red and seven white—spread across nine sites in Bhutan. Ser Kem, the very first wine ever produced in the history of the country, was released in October end.

Cross, the CEO, says she’s been in love “with the idea of Bhutan ever since I read a book in high school about a Canadian woman who moved there to teach English”. “Our vision has always been to capture the essence of Bhutan and share this magical country with the rest of the world. The vision is easy; the getting it done part is what takes work,” she says.

In Bhutan, serving alcohol is seen as a sign of respect, honour, and hospitality. It is offered as a welcome and farewell drink; it can be consumed with food, as dessert, or after a meal. People typically drink ara, the local fermented brew. In a bid to familiarise locals with their product, the company opened a Scandi-style wine bar in Thimphu this summer, under COO Karma Choeda.

Ann Cross and Michael Juergens; the vineyard

Juergens and Cross experimented by planting vines at different elevations in Bhutan’s narrow, steep valleys. The company now has vineyards at elevations ranging between 150m near Gelephu and 2,788m near Thimphu (one of the highest vineyards in the world). About 20 of the company’s 200 acres are pressed into production as of now. “Only one barrel was made in 2023 and is designed to be a collector’s piece rather than to be sent for mass distribution. The 2024 vintage will be released in 2025,” Juergens says.

Cross feels it isn’t a stretch to think that Bhutan could grow some of the world’s best grapes. “Bhutan has a unique microclimate. We can produce beautiful wines that reflect the terroir of Bhutan and compete with some of world’s best wines in the world,” she says.

For a name for the new brand, the founders sought guidance from the local “master namer monk” who christened it. Ser Kem translates into “offering of alcohol to the Gods”. The Bhutanese people, when drinking with family and friends don’t typically say ‘Cheers’. Instead, they dip the ring finger of their left hand into the drink and flick droplets into the air, making an offering with every glass. Ser Kem is a Bhutan Wine Company saying chin chin to the world by giving it a taste of the remote Himalayan Kingdom’s bounties.

A rosy affair

A rose by any other name is supposed to smell as sweet. It holds true for this cosy café in South Delhi. Run by a mother-daughter team, the Rose café has an unforgettable vintage vibe to it. Co-owner Tarini Ahuja says, “The menu is curated by me and my mother. We have worked on this for over a year. The new twists we keep adding to the preparations perfectly complement our delicious comfort classics.’’

Food: The menu at Rose café reminds you of a quaint little eatery in a European town. The beauty lies in the home-cooked touch their food has to offer. For starters, a very interesting twist to sweet churros called savoury churros is something you should not miss. Served with sour cream on the side, these churros are simply delicious.

A chef-recommended dish of lamb and feta meatballs served with labneh, pickled chilli and pita is the highlight of the menu. The main course has a wide range of pasta, pizzas and something called ‘comfort food’ which mostly has chicken recipes with varied preparations.

Their Chorizo and Blue cheese penne pasta is perfect for those who want their pasta to retain that mild, crunchy Italian essence. The dessert section is absolutely lit as their cakes come baked from their home kitchen. Their salted caramel and chocolate gelato will lift your mood on a bad-work day. Don’t forget to give their fluffiest French toast a try. It is topped with berries and maple syrup. Those with a sweet tooth will find this one irresistible.

Service: The staff is from the time the café was opened twelve years ago. They are well trained and enthusiastic.

Décor: The beauty of this place lies in the details of the décor. Something that will draw your attention is the beautiful rose petals painted on the floor by local artisans. From the furniture to the wall décor, everything is rose-themed and done very thoughtfully.

Price: The place is not overpriced by South Delhi standards and would be approximately Rs 1,700 for two people.

Address: Ground Floor, Eldeco Centre, Metro station, G6R and G7R1, Malviya Nagar, New Delhi

Packing for a train journey

Perched beside curved glass windows, we spoke with Nitin Lochab, general manager, operations, Aroon Food Services Pvt Ltd — the company which built the restaurant. “This is a discarded rail coach that we obtained as part of a government tender. The idea was to convert waste to wonder. The biggest challenge was to lift this coach from Patel Nagar and bring it here which involved lifting with three to four cranes. It took us five months to give it a new lease of life.

We removed the small fans, berths, and folding tables and adorned the interiors with intricate tile work on the walls, floor coverings and leather upholstery. The greenery around the restaurant along with ample parking space adds to its benefit.” Additionally, Sachin Rana, director, Aroon food services pvt Ltd said, “Visitors can enjoy a unique dining experience, reminiscent of train travel, and take memorable selfies outside. The restaurant will be open all seven days of the week, from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.”

This restaurant is one of the four envisioned by the Delhi division of the Northern Railway to be converted into train-themed dine-ins to promote waste to wealth generation concept of the railways, announced last year. The first such restaurant opened at the New Delhi Railway Station early this year while spaces were designated for the other three at Anand Vihar, Old Delhi and Chanakyapuri.

Food on track

While the menu serves soups, starters, and main courses as well as beverages that one can find in the pantry of any rail journey, its highlight is dishes named after trains. To begin with, the Shaan-e-Punjab Tikka (`425) named after Shan-e-Punjab Express, which runs between Amritsar and New Delhi, served us the quintessential flavours of Punjab with its soft boneless chicken cooked in a tandoor that had been marinated with spices and mustard oil.

Making peace with a truant river

Imagine an extended Walden Pond set in the Kerala idyll and you have Moozhikulam Sala, a pastoral housing colony for city people 28 km from Kochi in Kerala. As a mixed metaphor, one of the first things to catch your eye at the entrance is that there is no gate. A few metres inside, stands a large banyan tree with overhanging branches.

The mud paths abound in dry leaves. There is a good deal of vegetation: peanut, banana, fig, bamboo, sandalwood and cannonball trees. Because the Sala is right next to the Chalakudy river, a gentle breeze blows all the time. The calls of cicadas and the occasional cawing of a crow punctuate the silence.

The idea of the organic village was born to TR Premkumar, a former maths and physics teacher at a private college, after reading Living with the Himalayan Masters by Swami Rama. “Swami Rama said the more possessions you can give up, and live simply, the better it is for you. It is only then that you will see nature in all its glory.

It was a turning point in my life,” says the 67-year-old. He gave up smoking, alcohol and non-vegetarian food. He conceived a colony where people could live in close connection with nature. He located a two-acre plot near the Chalakudy river and advertised the project in a daily magazine in November 2005. All 52 plots sold out within a month. Today, it has around 70 residents. One of them is Pradeep Kumar, a freelance designer. He says, “I get to breathe pure air. There is a beautiful silence mixed with the cries of birds.”

The Sala comprises 23 mini ‘naalukettu’ houses of 1,089 sqft each, with three bedrooms; and 29 one-bedroom houses of 230 sqft each. No walls divide these dwellings of burnt brick and mud, made in the Laurie Baker style—British-born Baker (1917-2007) was renowned for using local materials to build houses in Kerala. “An air pocket between the bricks keeps the houses cool,” reveals Premkumar.

There is also a central well on the premises. Next to it, a 25,000-litre tank has been installed to provide each house with piped water. The residents of the Sala have a carbon-neutral kitchen—they do not cook the food. They eat everything raw, including the vegetables.

Hearty and wholesome

Born in Barcelona in 2010 as Cup & Cake and rebranded to Brunch & Cake in 2012, the brand underwent a wave of global expansion in 2019 to have 19 restaurants across Spain, Dubai, Bahrain, and Egypt. The award-winning restaurant chain now enters India with its first outlet in Mumbai’s commercial district of Worli-Lower Parel.

Food: Brunch & Cake channels the warmth of grandma’s kitchen. While the menu is similar to its international outlets, there have been tweaks to cater to the Indian audience—70 per cent of the menu is vegetarian, beef has been replaced with chicken or vegetarian alternatives, and paneer makes an appearance.

Their worldwide bestseller is Next Level Avo Toast, an in-house olive sourdough topped with crushed tomatoes, avocado-feta mash, and avocado ‘rose’; the gluten-free version with roasted sweet potato instead of sourdough is also worth trying.

The Big Breakfast is a fully loaded feast with sourdough, hashbrowns, halloumi, portobello mushrooms, avocado, spicy baked beans, sausages, and choice of eggs or paneer akuri. If you drop by for lunch, try the B&C Barcelona Nachos, a whimsical dish with cactus-shaped tortilla chips, chipotle rice (or chicken), sweet potato, guacamole, cheese sauce, sour cream, pico de gallo, and fresh mango. Or try Grandma’s Burnt Edge Lasagna, a hearty chicken lasagna with crispy burnt edges.

Leave room for dessert though; the Basque Cheesecake is rich and creamy while the Carrot Cake is scrumptious.

Service: Trained by the international team, the staff is well-versed and enthusiastic.

Décor: The warm and inviting space is done up in soft pastels, complemented by rustic touches like rough stone and woven wicker. It also features Brunch & Cake signatures like white shells, surfboards, and an olive tree in the centre.

Price: It’s a steal with an average meal for two costing around Rs 1,500.

Address: Unit No. G-04, Raheja Altimus, Pandurang Budhkar Marg, Worli, Mumbai

Aurangabad: The gully gourmet’s heirloom recipes

Food is ubiquitous in Aurangabad. Famous for its exquisite, centuries-old, rock-cut temples, sculptures and paintings of the UNESCO-endorsed Ellora and Ajanta Caves, the city is also a gastronomic haven. Mughlai? Check. Arabic? Check. Nizami/Marathwada? Check, check. Much of this culinary diversity has to do with the city’s syncretic culture.

Founded by the Abyssinian slave-turned-warrior Malik Ambar in 1610 as Khadki, and ruled subsequently by everyone from the Ahmadnagar Sultanate to Mughal Badshah Aurangazeb and the Nizams of Hyderabad, the regional gastronomic tapestry is a confluence of flavours.

Arguably the best places to sample local food is at street stalls and local markets. In Aurangabad, the go-to place is Buddi Galli, on the outskirts of the city in a district called Naralibag.

A twisty, labyrinthine road of street stalls and hole-in-the-wall eateries, it serves up delicious, cheap food. Push cart vendors sell everything from flavour-charged chicken shawarmas to spicy seekh kebabs smoldering on charcoals, perfuming the air with their irresistible aroma. Tikiya pav—spiced beef patties fried on a griddle and served inside pillowy soft pav—is a treat for the taste buds.

Khau Gali is another foodie destination for a deep dive into the city’s rich food history.

Think halwais deep frying gossamer gold puris to be served with hing-infused aloo sabzi and a piquant carrot pickle; bawarchis fussing over wafer-thin mandi roti in incandescent tandoors… Sellers of chaats, pakodas, vadas, and pani puri are all part of this cultural blast furnace with the atmosphere so thick it can be sliced with a knife.

Khaja sellers are a visual delight around Aurangabad’s historic gates—52 in number. The gargantuan fluffy pastry, like a big bhatura or paratha, but heavier and flaky is crafted from maida, ghee, sugar and khoa. Deep fried in a boiling wok of ghee, it is no diet food but certainly a pocket friendly snack at Rs 50 a pop.

A traditional thali

Great Sagar Restaurant—located on VIP Road, near Bhadkal Gate—is a mecca for meat eaters. The no-frills eatery with its redoubtable three-decade-old legacy has an iconic following.

Opt for its legendary mutton biryani and you’ll soon figure out why every table when you walk in had ordered it. The dish comes in a gleaming copper handi brimming with yellow-white, saffron-flecked rice topped with half a hardboiled egg. Sides of a zesty salan and raita provide able support. A topping of crispy caramelised onions impart a hint of sweetness.

For those craving Aurangabadi favourites steeped in Marathwada flavours, a traditional thali at the freshly-minted Hyatt Place Airport Hotel’s Zing restaurant is the answer.

Amid the 10-odd dishes on a silver platter, the piece de resistance is of course the mutton naan qalia, Aurangabad’s revered masterpiece. With its provenance in Mughlai cuisine, the slow-cooked mutton stew features succulent meat pieces cooked for hours in a rich, aromatic gravy.

Don’t miss out on a quintessential Marathi breakfast at the hotel. The multilayered thalipeeth is a textural delight. Wash it all down with a jeera-infused chaas or a piping hot masala chai while reflecting on life’s sensual pleasures!

Mutton Naan Qalia recipe

by Chef Sujay S Mungikar, Head Chef, Hyatt Place Aurangabad

Ingredients:

• Mutton – 1 kg

• Onions – 2 medium (finely sliced)

• Yogurt- 1 cup (whisked)

• Ginger garlic paste- 2 tbsp

• Bilawe ki Chironji – 2 tbsp

• Desiccated coconut- 2 tbsp

• Poppy seeds – 1 tbsp

• Red chili powder – 1 to 1 1/2 tsp (depends on your taste)

• Cumin powder – 1 tsp

• Coriander powder- 2 tsp

• Turmeric powder – 1/2 tsp

• Garam Masala – 1 tsp

• Salt to taste

• Oilfor cooking

Method:

• Wash mutton and mix 1 finely sliced onion and set it aside. Dry roast coconut, poppy seedsand chironji and then grind them to form a smooth paste. Fry the 2 finely sliced onions till they are brown and then grind them to make a fine paste.

• Heat oil and add the meat mixed with onions and keep frying it. Add the ginger garlic paste. Once meat is seared, addthe powdered spices. Mix well and keep on frying by adding water. Now add enough water to cook and cover the lid. Let the mutton cook till it’s partly tender. Now add the whisked yogurt. Cook again for 10 minutes. Now add the coconut-poppy seeds, chironji, and brown onions paste. Add water and simmer for another 15 minutes. Rest and when the dish develops ‘taar’ or a film of oil on top, garnish with coriander leaves and serve with rice or roti.

Ekaa: Desi-style dive bar

The concoctions from the bar bring in Swadeshi Sips, a banger spin on Indian liquors, and the tequila-powered Lallantop with bel leaves. Niyati’s father and his friends in Kolkata, in the ‘80s, went to a tiny shop in Tangra to gobble pork wontons with a sharp tofu sauce—and she has brought in the exact vibe in the veg dish, Tangra Hangover.

Décor: Named after the iconic train Bombay Daak that trundled fish from Mumbai to Kolkata during the colonial era, the kicky dive bar lives up to its sepia genesis. The interiors are as whacky as the menu.

Empty bottles of the yester year fizzy drink, Gold Spot, line the shelves, together with 110-year-old vintage lamps (from Chor Bazaar) creating golden pools in the dimly lit space. An endearing prologue is the Donor’s Board pegged on the wall at the entrance, listing people who shared stories and recipes in the making of Bombay Daak. Just like a gymkhana.

Service: With only 30 seats, a long waiting line, no bookings, and a flag off time of 6 pm every day (start with a sundowner), service is fast, and the turnaround amazing.

Price: It is pretty easy on the pocket at Rs 2,000 for two (with drinks).

Address: Shop 5/21, ONGC Complex, Reclamation,

Bandra West, Mumbai

Matters of Red, White in Britain

British wine seems to be a bit of a joke, but the English are no stranger to making wine. Today say wine and you think France, Italy, or Spain. But, winemaking in the British Isles is as old as the Romans who occupied the country in 43 BC. English wine has a YoYo history thanks to invasions: the Jutes and the Angles spelled doom for it.

Christianity brought wine back in vogue when it became good business for monasteries, which were destroyed along with their vineyards by the Vikings. King Alfred thumped the Vikings and the churchmen got their vines back. During the time of William the Conqueror, a Frenchman, there were 42 vineyards in the island.

The first commercial English vineyard was opened in 1955. Now, that number is 221, with most of them situated in the four coastal counties of West and East Sussex, Kent, and Hampshire. The total area under vine is 4,209 hectares; a 123 per cent increase over the last decade. English winemakers want their wines to be taken seriously,

Tim Jackson, the first resident Master of Wine for British Airways (BA), says English wine, particularly sparkling, has been developing rapidly over the last 20 years. “The English wine scene has transitioned from an amateur, hobbyist, cottage industry to a far more professionalised, commercial setup,” he says. This has led to the emergence of larger, more visible brands with a strong sales and marketing focus.

English winemaking was started by invaders, and it isn’t that different now. French vineyards and wineries have been established in the UK by major Champagne houses, Pommery, and Taittinger. So have international winemaking businesses such as Jackson Family Wines from the US and the Jordan family from South Africa.

Though commercial British wine has been around for over four decades, Mike and Chris Roberts planted the first vines in Sussex in 1995. Their Ridgeview brand produced award-winning wines and are now exported to Norway, Finland, and Japan. It is now led by the second generation, Tamara Roberts and Simon Roberts.

Ridgeview is served at Buckingham Palace and was anointed the official wine of 10 Downing Street. Along with using grapes from their heritage vines, Ridgeview partners with vineyards across Southern England to source grape. “Diversifying grape sources from select vineyards is key to the quality of wine,” Simon says.

Tim Jackson, Master of Wine, BA

Tom Wedgery, Sales and Retail Operations Manager at Sandridge Barton, says the British climate now is very similar to that of Champagne around 40 years ago. “The southwest has a warming influence—from the gulf stream in the Atlantic as well as proximity to the coast. This makes the climate perfect,” Wedgery says.

Jackson says the cool nature of England—cooler even than the northern latitudes of Champagne—results in grapes that ripen with high acidity. “Acidity is ideal for making good sparkling wines. It brings freshness that can be balanced by a combination of less maturation inside the bottle for richness, and the ‘dosage’ of a small amount of sugar to offset the sharpness of acidity,” he says.

Sandbridge Barton wine

The Master of Wine pinpoints the role geology plays in winemaking. “The most famous sparkling wine in the world, champagne, comes from vineyards planted on chalk. The south east has a band of chalk that goes to the White Cliffs of Dover—literally the same soil as Champagne. Coupled with the same grape varieties and production method, and increasing expertise, that’s a strong recipe for quality wines,” he says.

The 2018 harvest played a vital role in galvanising UK’s wine industry. The warm, sunny, dry spring led to a big crop, followed by a continuously sunny summer and early autumn. “Previous harvests had been around five million bottles of wine, but 2018 saw over 12 million,” Jackson says.

This gave Brit wineries enough volume to take their products to a wide audience. Jackson says part of the excitement in the English wine industry is the development of interesting, high quality wineries and wines. “Some are boutique, such as the Sugrue South Downs winery, while others are much larger with more international visibility, such as Nyetimber, Gusbourne, Wiston or Balfour,” he says. The winemaker rates the Simpsons Chalklands Classic Cuvée and Digby Fine English Brut highly. It is always happy hour in England, and wine has much to do with it.

“The English wine scene has transitioned into a far more professionalised, commercial setup.”

Tim Jackson, Master of Wine, BA

Hunting in Nature’s Garden of Edibles

“We brought out a field guide, Chasing Soppu, in September 2022, which people could use to see which greens are foraged in Bengaluru,” says Mundoli. She became interested in urban foraging in 2013 when she began working in urban ecology: “I was studying lakes in Bengaluru. I saw women who had brought cattle to graze, collecting greens around the lakebed areas.”

In Mumbai, Sanjiv Valsan, who runs Waghoba Habitat Foundation, conducts foraging walks in the Aarey Forest. The platform aims to create an urban-tribal connect and get city-dwellers to understand sustainability, traditional ecological knowledge and conscious living. “Foraging doesn’t require fertiliser, pesticide, or deforestation to cultivate food, unlike conventional agriculture. It’s about living with the seasons, feeling their rhythm and thriving on what nature gives you,” he says.

Chef Zacharias, who has been introducing urbanites to wild edibles was mind blown when he first tasted moras bhaji, which grows in the marshes of Navi Mumbai. “Every now and then vegetables that are not cultivated make their way into the markets of Mumbai.

And that’s how I came across the moras bhaji, which is so salty that some communities, like the Gujaratis, use it to replace salt. They add it to rotis, parathas or make pakodas with it,” says the Mumbai-based Zacharias. In 2012, he launched The Locavore, a platform focussed on promoting local food and sustainability in India.He, however, believes that introducing people to urban foraging is also a double-edged sword. “Overexploitation is dangerous. If everyone starts doing it, nothing will be left. For instance, wild mushrooms in Goa were so overexploited that the tribals who used to consume it can’t have it any more,” he says.

Foraging comes with its own set of dos and don’ts. First, get to know the area and the native species so that you don’t destroy the local ecosystem. Don’t forage indiscriminately, and don’t forage in low-income areas where people could be doing it already. However, proponents of urban foraging see it not as a way to supplement diets but as a means to reconnect with nature and indigenous communities.

“Foraging is meditative. Your consciousness is not led by random thoughts as you focus your mind to look for a particular leaf or vegetable. The more you develop knowledge of foraging and spend time in the forest, the more likely you are to understand indigenous people and get motivated to conserve the forest,” smiles Valsan.

Look and ye shall find is the forager’s motto.

Sweet and Shapely

From Bento modak cakes to lachha rabdi or gulab jamun cheesecake to jalebi caviar the sugar darlings this festive season are flooring tastebuds. Aditi Dugar, founder-director, Urban Gourmet India, is raising the bar by bringing out artfully crafted floral jelly cakes in collaboration with Thai pâtissier Chef Dej Kewkacha.

The Raindrop a 3D and shiny light-as-a-raindrop jelly comes in six variations: sakura, orchid, jasmine, rose, forget-me-not, and chrysanthemum. “I wanted The Raindrop to form the sweet run-up to Diwali. Flowers are celebratory and a big part of our culture,” says Dugar. Her pick? “The Rose is my personal favourite. I love its acidic and tart flavour,” she says.

Not to be left behind, Girish Nayak, Chief Mithaiwala at Bombay Sweet Shop is shaping childhood memories and cultural IPs into lip-smacking sweets. His Biscoff pedas and Puranpoli modaks are monikered festive ingenuities. The peda comes topped with biscoff ganache and hazelnut almond praline.

The Puranpoli modak is filled with an aromatic mix of jaggery, cardamom and chana dal, and is coated with dehydrated puranpoli bits on top. Come Diwali, he has a new line-up ready: “The Kaju marzipan bonbon plays up with the multi-layered decadence of cashew marzipan layered with dark chocolate ganache.”

Nayak’s Kaju and orange roll inspired by the Nagpur orange burfi has citrusy tones tucked inside the cashew roll. “Coffee rasgulla tiramisu is another creation that has found its mark,” he shares. The coffee-soaked rasgullas are layered with mascarpone cream topped with almond brittle and a generous dusting of cocoa powder. What’s his favourite? “The Indie Bar layered with pepper caramel, coconut fluff, patissa and dipped in dark chocolate,” he grins.

For Alisha Shah co-founder of Gold by Ice Cream Works who believes in bringing a luxury experience to even the polar pick, adding edible gold and silver into ice creams was a logical turn. “Gold represents opulence and rarity,” she says. Think vanilla from Madagascar, black cherries from Modena in Italy, cocoa from Los Rios in Ecuador, and more. “It’s all about exclusivity,” she smiles, succinctly summing up the trend.

“The Kaju marzipan bonbon plays up with multi-layered decadence.” Girish Nayak

Spoilt for choice in split

A few streets away, in the heart of the Old Town is another landmark: Ribarnica or the fish market. Set up in an old building, the first thing to notice is the absence of flies (owing to nearby sulphur spas). Unsurprisingly, there’s fish and seafood everywhere in Split. Sardines are usually salted, eaten with olive oil and capers.

Mussels are steamed with white wine and olive oil, and served with bread in a dish called buzzara. Cuttlefish and cuttlefish ink are used to make a black risotto. These items can be found across konobas (a taverna that typically serves local food) like Konoba Deep Shade or Konoba Fetivi.

Split enjoys really good weather, with temperatures not dropping too low or going too high. The Riva Promenade is where locals go to enjoy a walk, meet people, sip a coffee while looking out onto the sailboats and ships, or just eat some gelato.

Locals eat ice cream throughout the year, which explains the many gelato and ice cream shops dishing out flavours like coconut and rosemary, fig, mojito, carrot, olive oil and of course, lavender. Most recently, a gelateria—Bili San—launched a ‘First in the world’ flavour: chicken-flavoured ice cream.

In Croatia, lavender is a common summer crop and it is thus, widely used: as an herb, in teas, honey, jams, syrups, in soaps, oils, ice cream/gelato and even chocolate. The ubiquitous olive oil also makes it to chocolates.

Though the Old Town is now choc-a-block with shops, there are some local haunts. Tradicija Bakery claims to be the oldest pastry shop, run by the Kirigin family. They are popular for their pastries, and sirnica (sweet loaf eaten during Lent) and their rafioli (crescent-shaped pastry with a ground almond filling).

A closer look at the stalls reveals many local liqueurs and spirits, which make for good souvenirs and gifts. There’s orahovac made with unripe, green walnuts; white wine made from grapes found only on Korcula island, and fruit brandies made from Marasca cherries or honey.

It feels like an apt way to toast the culinary wonders of this small town.

Deliciously vintage

Step into the vibrant world of heirloom tomatoes, where each fruit carries a story as rich as its flavours. Rooted in tradition, farmers select the juiciest, sweetest, and most colourful tomatoes each season, harvesting and saving their seeds to plant anew when the warmth of spring arrives. These valued varieties, evoke a sense of nostalgia for culinary traditions long cherished. As the global food scene embraces a renaissance of authenticity, they reclaim their rightful place at the centre of our plates.

From rustic farms to gourmet kitchens, these vibrant gems infuse every dish with timeless flavour. Unlike the uniform hybrids designed for durability, heirloom varieties showcase an impressive range of flavours, colours and textures. “I like using these tomatoes because they taste like what a tomato should taste like. The different colours have a variety of textures and flavour,” says Gareth Mullins, Executive Chef at the Anantara Marker in Dublin.

These prized seeds, passed down through generations, yield fruits like the rich Brandywines and bi-coloured Gold Medals, distinct from hybrid varieties. “The joy of making an heirloom tomato salad lies in its simplicity and celebrates the robust flavours,” adds Simran Singh Thapar, Executive Chef at The Leela Palace Bengaluru.

Heirloom tomatoes signify an abundant time of the year whereby new ingredients become available to chefs. “Ripe tomatoes have a very broad appeal and evoke fond memories of summer. Heirloom tomatoes take that appeal to another level as the colour palette is visually attractive.

We have a dish on the menu featuring a selection of heirloom tomatoes grown on the Isle of Wight, a sorbet made from ripe plum tomatoes and a chilled gazpacho made from orange heirloom tomatoes,” shares Executive Chef Shay Cooper, The Lanesborough London.

What’s the seasonal joy of savouring heirloom tomatoes? “My approach to ingredients like this is always to keep it simple, and let the ingredient take centrestage. The tomatoes in Ireland are tarter in flavour and have their place on the culinary stage. To pair them with some Toonsbridge mozzarella, olive oil and some apple balsamic vinegar is a thing of pure joy and beauty,” adds Mullins. Much like the tomatoes.

Heirloom Tomato Gazpacho

Ingredients

● Orange variety heirloom tomatoes: 500gm

● Honey: 50ml

● Grape seed oil: 100ml

● Salt: 5gm

Method

● Place tomatoes on a tray with salt, cover with tinfoil cook in a low temperature oven(85c) for 1 1/2 hours until they have started to break down slightly

● Place in a blender with rest of ingredients and blend until very smooth

● Pass through a fine sieve, chill and serve

—By Chef Shay Cooper

An ode to Lorelai Gilmore and her favourite brew

Another Bangalorean Harshitha Venkatraman’s favourite Lorelai Gilmore quote happens to be, “This is a jumbo coffee morning. I need coffee in an I.V.” Harshita opens up about how she has always grown around the smell of filter coffee at home, with the aroma being the first thing she woke up to. “I’ve always liked coffee although my parents refused to let me have it until I was about 14-15. When I first started drinking coffee, I would usually have about 1-2 coffees per day although it was mostly just one. Now it’s at least three and often more,” said Harshita, adding that she’s definitely a different person without her morning jolt, and another entire personality altogether after having a quick fix.

Anjitha Eldho, who works in a PR firm, confirms this notion by citing examples of how memes depicting people before and after coffee are so relevant in her case. Asked about her first time trying coffee, Anjitha explained that the shift coincided with the transition from childhood to adulthood. “As kids, we used to have malt-based drinks like Boost, Horlicks and Bournvita but once we became adults, we tried new beverages like black tea, black coffee etc. And when I started consuming tea and coffee, I realised that I liked the latter more due to its taste,” she shared.

Now, it’s not just Lorelai who has all the killer lines relating to coffee. Her daughter Rory’s “Flirt with him now, we need coffee” dialogue still cracks Anjitha up whenever it pops up on her Insta feed.

Life happens but coffee helps — be it an Americano or South India’s famous filter coffee. Whatever the concoction, connoisseurs are willing to go to any extent to declare their love for it. And none more so than Lorelai who famously said, “If it was physically possible to make love to a hot beverage, this would be the one!”

Betting on the bold flavours of Buckwheat

Perfect texture

To make a great buckwheat dish, cooking it the right way is key. The grain takes a bit longer to cook compared to other grains. “Start by rinsing it to remove any dust or bitterness. Then, cook it until tender but still slightly chewy for the perfect texture. For extra flavour, toast the buckwheat before cooking. A splash of lemon juice, a drizzle of olive oil, or even some ghee can make the dish even more delicious,” shares Gaurav Yadav, Chef De Cuisine at The Bombay Canteen, Mumbai.

One must steam buckwheat groats skillfully to cook them best. This method tackles the grain’s need for ample water and guarantees its proper cooking. “Equally essential is the tradition of soaking buckwheat before cooking. It is vital for achieving the intended texture and taste,” adds Gagandeep Sawhney, Executive Chef Shangri-La, Delhi. Buckwheat elevates salads with its nutty taste, unique texture, and health perks. Chef Jaspal of L’Opera, Delhi, says, “Add cooked groats to salads for a protein and fibre boost. Rinse and dry thoroughly to avoid excess moisture. Amp up texture with nuts, seeds, or radishes.”

Mastering a delightful buckwheat dish hinges on grasping its distinctive nature. “Balancing the smoky notes with vibrant herbs and a hint of lime juice takes the dish to exceptional levels,” adds Chef Bhim, Head Chef at Viet:Nom, Gurugram.

Looks like the fascination for buckwheat in fine dining is here to stay.

A Platter you cannot refuse

If you are a regular at Delhi’s Lodhi colony, rejoice! There’s a new player in town—Dos—that gives your old favourites from across the globe—sometimes also your biggest rejects—an unexpected spin, making them as easy on the tummy as they are on the eye.

Food: The menu largely features regional ingredients—think raw banana, fish, kasundi, kalari cheese—and Dos scores in creating dishes that combine nostalgia with a modern thrill. An example is a dish served featuring split white peas and candy tomatoes, with a garnish of brown onions and radish.

The very first bite brings in familiar tangy notes of the Bengali ghugni, except the taste is elevated with a portion of the Kashmiri kalari cheese. The non-vegetarians can go for the Smokey Chipotle Prawns with yellow peas, brown onions and mayo oil, although there are plenty of options to choose from.

Scepticism may take over on spotting eggplant on the menu, but be brave, because what the chefs do to every pantry’s most hated vegetable in their Baked Eggplant Schnitzel is unimaginable. It is served on a bed of tahini yoghurt with a drizzle of Guntur chilli sauce.

For risk-averse non-vegetarians, there’s the classic grilled chicken breast that comes with double-cooked potatoes and seasoned with burnt cabbage, caramelised onions, and crumbled goat cheese, all of which comes together zestfully with a drizzle of mustard sauce. Brownie points for their mocktails that can cheer you up, even on a damp rainy evening. Recommendations include Spicy Smooth Raspados, Dreamer and Open Your Heart.

Décor: The experimentation in their food is tastefully reflected on the walls. Designed in an industrial theme, the exposed brick walls and contemporary lighting make the space cozy but not cramped.

Service: The staff is friendly, courteous and well-informed about the ingredients that go into the complex recipes.

Price: At Rs 2,500 for two, it is easy on the pocket.

Address: Fourth Ave Rd, Main Market, Block 8, Lodi Colony, New Delhi

A plate less ordinary

Think Rajasthani cuisine and dal baati, churma, laal maas, safed maas, come to mind. In touristy places like Jaipur, Jodhpur, and Udaipur, restaurant menus often feature these popular dishes. However, they highlight only a fraction of the region’s culinary heritage. Dig a little deeper and you realise that food in the land of royals has been heavily influenced by the region’s arid climate and scarcity of water, not to mention a past laden with warfare and survival.

“Rajasthani cuisine is a masterclass in resourcefulness, especially in the arid regions of Marwar and Shekhawati. The short crop season, from August to October, means fresh ingredients are available only for a brief period. This scarcity led the people to use preservation methods to make the most of what they have,” says Dipali Khandelwal, founder of Jaipur-based The Kindness Meal, a community and content platform preserving India’s disappearing food cultures. “The ingenuity is a testament to the region’s resilience and creativity, transforming what might seem like constraints into culinary strengths,” she says.

Avijit Singh, owner, House of Rohet, a collection of boutique hotels in Rajasthan, says the limited variety of ingredients puts a strong emphasis on utilising every part of what is accessible—from root to stem—to create flavourful dishes like hare tamatar ki sabzi and dried lotus stem in gravy. Earlier, the diet primarily consisted of locally available millets like bajra, jowar and jau, which grow amply in the desert as they are more resilient to the weather conditions. The scarcity led to the use of distinctive elements like ker (berries), sangri (beans), which grow only in desert conditions and provide nutritional benefits, and dried lentil dumplings (gatte and mangodi). “Lentils, legumes and beans provided much-needed protein. Scarcity of water meant that we learned to cook with milk, buttermilk, or yogurt,” says Bandana Lal, a home chef.

Foraging was also a vital part of Rajasthan’s past. Wild beans and berries like ker, sangri, kumathia, kaachra and keekar phalli grew in abundance in the, on account of being able to grow in water-scarce conditions, and were used to fulfil nutritional requirements. “Rajasthanis sundry everything—from greens of carrots, spinach and mint, to local mushrooms. A household traditionally has a stock of fofaliya (a local variety of tinda), guar phali (cluster beans), bhee (sundried lotus stem), fogla (buds of Fog tree that grows only in the Thar), and aaloo ke khelre (thick dried potato chips used to make a curry),” Khandelwal says.

sun-dried ingredients used in households

In the absence of fresh vegetables, homemakers and cooks relied on pickles and chutneys, including variants like haldi ka achaar, sahjan ki phali ka achaar, and kheep ki phali ka achaar, to add spice and flavour to meals. “In earlier days, people pickled teetar (partridge) and bater (quail),” Khandelwal says.

Culinary techniques were also tailored to the region’s specific conditions, be it dhungar, a method used to lend a smoky flavour, or slow cooking, commonly used to cook meat to let flavours develop fully. This was used by soldiers when camping in the desert during wars. Caravans often cooked meat in open pits during their journey and carried it along on their travels.

But times are changing. The Green Revolution introduced wheat as a staple, gradually transforming traditional eating habits. Ingredients found by foraging are tougher to find and the practice is slowly dying. “The essence of Rajasthani cuisine, once deeply rooted in local ingredients and age-old techniques, is slowly fading from everyday household kitchens,” Khandelwal says. Not many people even know how to forage any more, what to look for, and which plants and berries can be consumed, she adds.

Singh brings up a lesser-known Rajasthani dish with a rich history: rabodi. “Corn is cooked in buttermilk and spices until it forms a paste, which is then shaped into flat pancakes and sun-dried. These are then cooked in a tomato or curd-based gravy,” he says. Khandelwal talks of the Paush khichda—a classic one-pot porridge-inspired dessert made in winter. This is a popular temple food in winters in Jaipur and during the seasonal feast of Paush Bade. “But rarely do you see the dish mentioned in cookbooks or talked about outside traditional homes,” she says, adding, “It’s time to discover a Rajasthan beyond the usual.”

Paush Khichda

Ingredients:

• Yellow moong dal: 1/2 cup

• Rice: 1/2 cup

• Milk: 1.5 litre

• Jaggery powder or sugar: 1/3 cup

• Ghee: 5 tbsp

• Turmeric powder: 1 tsp

• A pinch of salt

• Dry fruits (almonds, pistachios, cashews, raisins): 1/4 cup

• Cardamom powder: 1/4 tsp

• Saffron: 3-4 strands

Method:

• Rinse the rice and lentils well. Soak in water separately for about 30 minutes

• In a heavy-bottomed pan, add the soaked lentils with 1 cup of water and cook until they soften

• Now add the soaked rice and milk

• Add turmeric powder and salt to the pan, stir well and cook on slow flame

• Once the mix starts boiling, add jaggery powder or sugar and stir well

• In a small bowl, add 2 spoons of warm water and the saffron strands. Add this mix to the pan along with cardamom powder

• Finally, add ghee and mix well. Cook for 5 minutes, until it gets a velvety texture

• Garnish with dry fruits and serve warm

(Recipe by Dipali Khandelwal)

Sands, scents and sensibility

In the endless sands of the Thar desert which spans 2,00,000 sq km across India and Pakistan, the monsoon is a harbinger of revival. Langa musicians sing songs welcoming the meh, or the desert rain. It rejuvenates peacocks that dance amorously to show off their iridescent fans. The rain at Kaner, India’s first desert botanical resort located on the Jodhpur-Jaisalmer highway, is a sensory experience that celebrates the variety of the Thar. Above all the scent of the desert rains.

Kaner, another name for the Oleander flower, commonly known as the Desert Rose—is open from September to March for plant-based wellness experiences. Launched by Sapna Bhatia in 2021, it provides, perhaps, the first and only olfactory holiday in India.

Led by Esha Tiwari, a scent storyteller and the founder of Kastoor, a homegrown brand of modern ittars, a rainy stay is an aromatic experience at the resort. Tiwari explores scent memories, a historical storytelling of Indian scents, and the genesis of the scent-based wellness ecosystem. But why a scent-focused retreat during the monsoon? Tiwari says India was the centre of the world’s first scent-based wellness ecosystem, adding that specific tools are required to “understand our role in the larger cosmic scheme of human life and find a rhythm in sync with it”. “Scents are not just directly linked to memories that can be harvested to get closer to oneself. They also help to instantly stabilise the nervous system and body temperature,” she says.

Kaner is surrounded by an oran, or a sacred grove, and an ancient system of conservation in the desert. Animals here roam free and graze. Locals can forage, but no pruning and cutting trees are allowed. The result is a magnificent, unspoilt landscape in which desert flora grows abundantly and people and wildlife live in harmony. “During the rain, the desert ephemerals come out, covering the oran with a crisp, ethereal, verdant carpet. Being here is like paying a tribute to the spirit of the desert,” Bhatia says. She adds that the monsoon is the best time to visit Marwar and experience the scents of the desert.

Culinary seaman on top of the world

It is simply impossible to separate the chef from the artist when it comes to the Michelin-starred Virgilio Martinez—Peru’s de facto culinary ambassador, whose restaurant Central, in Lima, was judged the ‘World’s Best Restaurant 2023’, sponsored by S Pellegrino and Acqua Panna.

The concept of altitude and verticality rules at Central. Martinez uses the Andes mountains, the Amazon river and rainforests, and the Pacific Ocean as his grocery store. “The tasting menu plays with the unevenness of altitude cuisine, going deeper into the locally available ingredients,” says the 47-year-old chef, who has experimenting with over 120 varieties of salt; amazing varieties of coloured corn, wild cacao, and potatoes found 5,000 m above sea level. Blame his endless foraging trips as he dips into the manifold ecosystems of Peru, celebrating an organic movement with seasonality and flavours that take you back to the place of origin.

“There are plenty of similarities between Peruvian and Indian cuisines. There is no single definition of national cuisine in both cases since the topography and expanse of the countries lend plurality to flavours. The climate, region and availability determine the cuisine,” explains the chef, who was in India recently to host two dinners at Koishii at The St. Regis Mumbai. “Just like the food in India is fragrant with spices, we in Peru use seasonings aplenty to create textures and tastes.” During his debut trip to India Martinez sifted through fresh spices at Mumbai’s famous market in Lalbag and bought Indian chillies to take back home.

Having grown up in his family home by the sea, Martinez bonded early with fishermen, going to choose and buy the daily catch. His comfort food is Peruvian ceviche—a citrusy marinated seafood dish. His fishy leanings landed him in a spot of trouble at the Los Angeles airport a few years back. “I was carrying 40-odd piranhas in a vacuum-sealed pack to try a new menu. I was detained for declaring ‘flesh and bones’ in my baggage,” he laughs. Martinez was let off once he showed pictures of the dish he wanted to recreate in America. These is an Amazonian dish on the Central menu that brings piranhas, and all that they eat, on the same plate. “Each dish is an expression of an ecosystem. It represents a certain ecological elevation, and all the components come together from the same region and altitude,” he explains.

A city for fun-gi

I’m a fun-gi’ is embroidered in blazing red on a lime green mushroom-shaped hat; ‘You’re as cute as a button’, reads a greeting card with the image of a button mushroom; ‘Shroom-shroom’ is emblazoned on a toy car… all these quirky knick-knacks and more can be spotted at The Mushroom Cap store, in the borough of Kennett Square, the Countryside of Philadelphia.

Aptly named, the store comes stocked with all things mushroom. Walk through the gift shop, chat with the staff, sit through a snappy, educational video, and you’ll learn of the region’s fascinating history: The tiny borough may have a population of about 6,000, and yet is heralded as the ‘Mushroom Capital of the World’. This little-known area—a speedy one-hour drive from the city centre of Philadelphia—produces more than half of the US’s entire mushroom crop.

Like all good things, the mushroom boom in Philly occurred unexpectedly. Up until the late 1800s this area was known for its flowers, carnations in particular. A creative florist, William Swayne, was bothered by the fact that the space beneath the flower beds in his greenhouse, was wasted. An idea mushroomed, literally. Given the dark, humid conditions, this space was perfect for growing mushrooms. He secured spores from Europe and emerged as the region’s first fungi farmer.

The secret to a good mushroom crop lies in the compost. Or as a fridge magnet cheekily reveals, ‘Shiit-ake happens’. On a humid, summer’s day, you may catch a whiff of the manure, or what locals politely refer to as ‘the Kennett Square perfume’. While a variety of ingredients go into the compost, rumour has it that discarded cocoa shells from the nearby Hershey’s chocolate factory add a distinctive flavour to this region’s shrooms.

Today, the small borough and its surrounds produce over 500 million pounds of mushrooms annually. To celebrate the success story, a mushroom festival is held every year in September. Also, foraging in the wild is an adventure best reserved for those who know their fungi, as some varieties can be poisonous. There are select places where you can forage for mushrooms in the wild while marvelling at the surreal wood wide web beneath your feet; one of the most fascinating facts about mushrooms is that their root systems contain mycelium threads, which intertwine and connect different trees. Think of these as bonds between trees, even entire forests.

After all, Kennett Square is where the best ideas mushroom (no pun intended).

Turning over a new leaf

Not sure if you’ve noticed, but the leaves have begun sporting an ochre hue, the winds are getting cooler, and the sun gentler. The shift in the season is evident, especially along some of Delhi’s most beautiful roads. The festivities are just around the corner too, with Lord Ganesh marking his arrival this weekend — could this be the beginning of the best times? I’d say yes.

Speaking of turning over a new leaf, the city’s esteemed progressive-Indian restaurant, Indian Accent, which gave Delhi and its food lovers a taste of what re-imagined Indian cuisine could be, has begun a new chapter under the skilled guidance of Chef Shantanu Mehrotra. This follows the departure of the legendary Chef Manish Mehrotra, who stepped down after being at the helm of this iconic restaurant for fifteen years.

Chef Mehrotra, who had been with the restaurant since its inception in 2009, chose to celebrate all things Indian Accent with an ode to its very first menu, when it originally opened its doors. This nod to nostalgia was perhaps the perfect way to usher in the new era of this restaurant.

“At first, people were shocked, more than surprised, when we launched. I remember some guests even remarking that our blue cheese naan was a result of cheese going off!” Chef Mehrotra chuckles, sharing this anecdote with me over a meal at the restaurant last week.

To be fair, blue cheese is an acquired taste, and considering the near total lack of exposure to the world of cheese at the time, unlike today, it could well have tasted ‘odd’ to many diners fifteen years ago! Yet, that same blue cheese naan went on to become an iconic dish, and a prototype for the new wave of modern-Indian cuisine restaurants.

A glassy affair

Mist swirling around tops of lush green mountains and rain-drenched streets provide a picturesque backdrop for the recently-launched Fiori in Lonavala. The restaurant is a welcome addition to the hilly neighbourhood, where founder-siblings Suraj and Sanskriti Gupta serve comforting European and Mediterranean fare.

Food: Head chef Gracian de Souza is the man helming the kitchen. Although it is a vegetarian restaurant, one does not feel like they are missing out on anything. The Feta and Watermelon Salad has a salty kick from the balsamic drizzle. The Beetroot and Goat Cheese Salad is another crowd-pleaser.

The Roasted Bell Pepper Bruschetta with capers and cream cheese looks delectable but lacks salt. The Beetroot and Feta Cheese Burger fares better. However, to get the true Fiori experience, go for the pizzas. Whether it is the Assorted Mushroom Pizza with Goat Cheese or the Chipotle Vegetable Pizza with American Corn, the woodfired pizzas are a treat, but the OG is the Garlic Pizza with Rosemary and Herb Oil.

It is cheesy and aromatic in equal proportions, quite easily the pick of the lot. Fiori also does a good job by getting the right balance of drinks that are sweet, spicy and everything in between. The tequila-based Bee Sting is a clear favourite with its punchy jalapeno and sweet honey notes. For coffee cravings, the Miel Latte with cinnamon and honey is a good option.

Service: The young servers are attentive and the waiting time between dishes is not very long.

Décor: Fiori’s glasshouse interiors and vintage décor are a sight for sore eyes. Towards evening, the warm glow from the lamps lends a cosy vibe. And if it rains while you are dining, it’s a bonus!

Price: An average meal for two—minus the cocktails—costs around Rs 2,000, which is on the steeper side for a lazy hillside restaurant.

Address: Regenta SG’s Greenotel, Old Mumbai-Pune Highway, Gawliwada, Rao Colony, Lonavala, Maharashtra 410401

Wrap and roll in Prague

The whiff of cinnamon and freshly baked bread tantalises the senses while walking down the Golden Lane in Prague. The seductive aroma is emanating from the unassuming window of a bakery. The woman behind the counter is rolling a fat length of dough onto a wooden stick to form a cone-crescent, which like a croissant but not a croissant. She places the stick carefully in an open oven and splashes some mascarpone on top.

An introduction to trdelnik, the Czech version of kürtoskalács, a similar pastry from Transylvania (now part of Romania) is likely to be unforgettable. The name comes from the Czech-Slovak word trdlo, referring to the wooden tool used to wrap the dough during the baking, giving the cake its traditional hollow shape. It is also called a ‘Chimney Cake’. Legend goes that a Hungarian general called József Gvadányi, had brought a cook to Skalica (in Slovakia) who brought with her the recipe.

The rolls come in different varieties, filled, semi-coated, coated and sprinkled. The filling consists of whipped buttercream with cocoa powder and vanilla, but there can be more varieties if you so wish. The sprinkled varieties are coated with melted butter mixed with honey and topped with sugar, hazelnuts, almonds, cinnamon, raisins, cocoa powder, or vanilla.

The Czechs have a penchant for rolling their desserts, as can be noticed in the bakeries of Horické town. Handmade Horické trubirky (tubes) are wrapped in legends dating back more than 200 years. One captivating tale recounts that in 1812, Emperor Napoleon’s personal chef revealed the secret recipe for these sweet somethings to Lícková, a local cook, as payment for treating his injuries. Crafted from two twisted thin wafers, filled with a creamy filling available in various flavours, these rolled delights have a crunchy and porous texture.

The Malayali on a high in Poland

Now that he had the perfect recipe, he needed a name. “What better name than ‘Malayali’?” chuckles Nallur, who grew up in Palakkad, Kerala. He earned his BCom degree from the Government Arts and Science College in Meenchanda, Kozhikode in 2007, before moving to Barcelona for further studies. It was a crazy idea naming the beer Malayali, but it clicked with the Indian expat community. As for the label, the duo took the help of a design firm in Kochi to find out what Malayalis relate to. One was Kathakali and the other was the Mollywood superstar Mohanlal. They launched the beer on November 13, 2022, using both Mohanlal and Kathakali images on the bottles—the logo featured a man wearing the headgear of a Kathakali artiste wearing Aviators and a moustache as sported by actor Mohanlal’s character in the cult film, Spadikam. But there was a small problem. “The design gave the impression it was a craft beer and not a mass market brew,” declares Nallur. He knew the design had to connect to the buyer for the beer to catch on. Two months ago, they began using the alphabet ‘Ma’ (Mother) in Malayalam as the logo.

Soon Indian restaurants in Warsaw were queuing up for Malayali. Arun Barot, owner of the Mr. India restaurant, says, “Malayali is super light. It doesn’t make you feel heavy. With other Indian brands, especially when drunk with typical Indian food, it causes burping, which is not the case with Malayali. My customers couldn’t be happier.”

Now Malayali is outselling Kingfisher, three to one in Warsaw, says Nallur. In 2023, he sold around 36,000 bottles from July to December. In the first quarter of 2024, the number was over 1.6 lakh bottles. Nallur and Sukumaran are not alone in taking up a spirited career. Perhaps Kerala’s love for the tipple is a high overseas. The last eight-odd years have seen Malayalis in different parts of the world launch new liquor brands—Kalikut 1498 beer in Poland, Maharani gin in Ireland, Mandakini Malabar Vaatte in Canada, Komban beer in the UK. But how did a teetotaller get into the alcohol business? “Destiny, I guess. When I was a 22-year-old living in Barcelona, I worked part-time in a pub. I ha dno idea about alcohol, but, nonetheless, fell in love with the trade,” smiles Nallur.

Malayali is the only Indian beer which is sold outside of Indian restaurants in Poland. “We are a hybrid beer. We sell in Mexican and Italian bars, too,” says Nallur. He has plans to woo the diaspora market in the UK, US and UAE. But his heart is set on making a mark in his home country. “I am looking for investors from India. In 2025, I want to enter the Indian market,” he says. There seems to be no bar on ‘Malayalis’ saying grin and beer it anywhere they go.

The monsoon’s sweetest by the sea

In Goan homes, a sweet ritual is practised on the first of August every year. People begin the month by eating something sweet, typically made with coconut and madachem godd (black palm jaggery)—a mixture called godd chunn. It contains two ingredients found in abundance in the state: jaggery and coconut. The belief is that having this delectable combo will ensure the month ahead is pleasant.

A popular sweet something made with this mix is patoli (patoleo for plural)—a Goan monsoon classic with turmeric leaves, rice, ghee, coconut and of course, sugar. Many versions of patoli are found across the Konkan coast, where it goes by different names like the elaada in Kerala whose mix is steamed in banana leaves; and the manjal irre dha gatti of Mangaluru.

Monsoon brings out a wide variety of seasonal greens in Goa that grow wild in forests and in people’s backyards. One of the most beloved of these is turmeric leaf, which comes to life for a brief period and can be plucked only in rainy season. This leaf is the star of the patoli, whose popularity has much to do with the Goan habit of eating seasonal foods. Many of Goa’s monsoon festivals, which are religious coincide with the harvest season and thus, are abundant in Goan bounty: fresh rice and turmeric leaves.

A typical patoli is made with local rice that is soaked overnight and whipped into a paste, the pyramid-shaped black jaggery (some use regular jaggery) for colour and a chocolate-like sweetness, freshly grated coconut, and turmeric leaves for fragrance and flavour. There is cardamom for freshness, and sometimes, nuts. The rice mixture is spread on turmeric leaves, followed by a layer of the coconut-jaggery fusion after which the leaf is folded. The patoleo are steamed for a few minutes.

Patoleo are made by all communities in Goa; you could call it a secular dish. It is made in Catholic homes to commemorate São João—the feast of St John de Baptist on June 24,the feast of Our Lady of Assumption, celebrated on August 15, and on Konsachem Fest—a harvest festival that coincides with the feast of Our Lady of Snows Church in Raia. In her book, Cozinha de Goa: History and Tradition of Goan Food, Dr Fátima da Silva Gracias writes, ‘in early August areas like the village of Taleigão celebrate the harvest feast (Fest de Novidade). The priest goes to nearby fields to bless the new sheaves of rice on a day of thanksgiving for a good harvest’. To celebrate the new harvest, Goan villagers make a variety of sweets like patoleo.

In Hindu households, the delicacies are made on Nag Panchami because they believe that the nag devta doesn’t like fried food; hence the steamed versions. The curved shape of the leaf resembles a snake Patoli is made during Ganesh Chaturthi, too. On the second Sunday of Shravan, patoleo is served as naivedya: a sweet offering to the God. It is also made on the first day or tai/tay; the tay patoli is offered to Goddess Gauri/Parvati without the filling. Turmeric leaves are used to decorate the maatt or matoli, a structure of local greens and fruits that surrounds the Ganpati idol In the old days, patoleo was steamed in a copper vessel called the compfro or konfro. Today, people use an idli cooker.

Unsurprisingly, for a beloved sweet, there are different methods of preparing patoleo. In some cases wheat flour is used instead of rice; cane sugar instead of black jaggery; some add chana dal (split gram) to the mixture; some use the leaf’s original shape while others cut it uniformly. Some even grate fresh turmeric on the leaves and the mixture for extra fragrance. A partner dish of the patoleo is dhonne or holle, which incorporates the typical sweet mixture, which is filled inside a jackfruit leaf shaped like a cone.

The patoleo has a cocktail version, made with Cazulo Premium Feni’s coconut feni, jaggery syrup, turmeric leaf extracts and coconut feni, and served in a coconut shell or kotti.

Goa’s ‘festival man’, Marius Fernandes, believes making patoleo for the regional festivals is a dying tradition. Hence he launched Patoleanchem Fest in 2006 to revive this sweet piece of culinary heritage, train the younger generation to learn old recipes, and get people to plant turmeric in their homes. The annual festival is held at Socorro Church grounds and visitors get to eat patoleo for free. The free-spirited Goans celebrate their sweet tooth as a homage to their scrumptious culture of feni and food.

Fun and fantastical with food theatrics

Chef Sarfaraz Ahmed’s skilful food artistry splashes out in an informal yet jaw-dropping melee of flavours. Think food theatrics with a delicious global twist in the Mumbai edition of the Dubai Michelin-starred Carnival by Tresind.

Food: The Chaat sundae is a tribute to one of India’s favourite street foods. A pretty dish with spinach papdi, dahi bhalla, yogurt ice cream, and chutneys for the khatta-meetha twist in ruby-lipped pouting granita with pomegranate beads.

Pil pil pollichathu regales seafood lovers in the grilled sea bass stroked to perfection with Malabari masala; as does the winsome Carta farta—Malabar fish curry served with khasta Malabar paratha. The Lobster pao—Carnival’s maverick tribute to the ubiquitous street snack in Mumbai, is a yummy rendition served up Japanese style in a bento-box spin off.

Prepared live at your table, the fresh pao is smeared with yuzu kosho and smacked with the fat lobster vada, complete with the togarashi drizzle for a spicy, citrusy finish. While the cocktail programme is a wild roulette with exciting flavour spins, it’s the decidedly different tiramisu that wins the sweepstakes.

Décor: There is never a dull moment at Carnival. Jawdropping masks on the walls, and on the faces of the servers and bartenders bring in a splash of whimsy. The roving mentalist grabs your attention with intriguing card tricks at the table. Bright blues, reds and shades of gold fill up the expansive restaurant, and rose-gold trees earmark the waiting area at the well-studded bar.

Service: The well-informed bartenders and servers indulge in a spot of interesting story telling to lend a cool dimension to your meal outing here.

Price: At Rs 4,000 for two (without alcohol), it is easy on the pocket.

Address: 7th Floor, Krishna Curve Building, Junction Of Linking Road, and, Juhu Tara Rd, Santacruz West, Mumbai

The shroom boom

Health and Flavour: Proper seasoning, aromatics, and a balance of flavours, with a touch of fat to finish, can create a rich and satisfying dish. “In our Mushroom Toast recipe, we use button mushrooms, shiitake, enoki, king oyster and elm oyster mushrooms. Each type brings its own unique texture and taste. Then there is our star dish, the Brown Bechamel Rigatoni with shiitake and button mushrooms, sundried tomatoes and parmesan breadcrumbs. It’s loved for its rich, creamy sauce, the earthy flavours of shiitake and button mushrooms, the tangy punch of sundried tomatoes, and the crunchy, savoury parmesan breadcrumbs that perfectly top it off,” says Shailesh Johny, Culinary Chef and Director, Lavonne Academy and Café, Bengaluru and Delhi.

Mushrooms are both culinary classics and a boon to health, containing a wealth of essential vitamins and minerals such as B vitamins, selenium, and vitamin D. Studies affirm their role in bolstering immunity. “We use king oyster mushrooms, shimeji mushrooms, straw mushrooms, shiitake and various types of fungus in our recipes,” says Master Chef Liang-Yi Jing at ITC Maratha Mumbai.

With zero cholesterol and fat and abundant selenium, mushrooms cater to evolving consumer preferences for health and sustainability. Minimal environmental footprint and high yield makes the muhroom a star in sustainable agriculture for eco-conscious diners, especially Gen Z and millennials. “We are exploring ways to incorporate these healthy ingredients,” says Asami Indo, Partner Chef, Harajuku Tokyo Café, Delhi.

Then there is the latest mushroom coffee craze. Renowned wellness experts praise the healing properties of medicinal mushrooms like chaga, reishi, and lion’s mane for their abilities to combat inflammation, alleviate fatigue, and enhance immune function. Needless to say, health-oriented companies are delving into the world of beneficial fungi by infusing coffee with these therapeutic mushrooms. “Cordyceps tea and chaga coffee are lauded for their health benefits—boosting energy, aiding immunity, respiratory health, fighting free radicals and reducing inflammation,” says Chef Yatendra Rawat Executive Chef, Hyatt Regency, Gurugram.

The era of the shroom has really begun.

From Dubai, with love

Avatara opened in Dubai in early 2022 and bagged a Michelin star within a year, the only vegetarian Indian restaurant in the world to do it in style. It has now opened in Mumbai with an updated tasting menu that is an ode to its new home. And it is a winner.

Food: The 14-course tasting menu turns Indian vegetarian fine-dining on its head. The usual suspects—paneer and mushroom—are nowhere in sight nor do any of the dishes have onion or garlic. Instead, unassuming vegetables like turnip and bitter gourd take centrestage. There is Grinjanah: turnip kebab in rajma gogji on flaky amaranth katlam (Kashmiri bread). Or Subhanjana: drumstick chokha with sattu kachori in potato-mustard gravy. The often-overlooked bitter gourd is turned into a ghee roast and served with mango sambar gelato and dosa crisp. Every dish is referred to by its Sanskrit name. Executive chef Sanket Joshi brings Maharashtrian flair to the menu—so you have crispy okra stuffed with thecha (spicy condiment with green chilli and peanuts), a taco version of aluvadi (snack made with taro leaves), and sol kadhi poured over a delicate kokum-soaked green apple ‘rose’. However, the Kolhapur-style tambda rassa rice misses the mark, its overt spiciness overpowering the parsnip rassa. The dessert course (Madhuram) features Uttarakhand’s famous bal mithai that’s turned into a chocolate rosette. It is served with a buransh (rhododendron) drink to cut down the sweetness.

Service: A special note for the sommelier, whose competence is reflected in the thoughtful wine pairing.

Décor: The 2,000-sqft, 65-seater restaurant offers a tranquil ambience. The walls are awash in white, blue and aquamarine, channeling the natural Himalayan landscapes.

Price: Considering the quality of the food and experience, it is worth the spend at Rs 4,500 per person (plus taxes). However, the optional wine pairing is a bit steeply priced at an additional Rs 5,500.

7th Floor, Krishna Curve Building, Opp. Juhu Garden, Santacruz West, Mumbai;

Lunch: 12 noon and 2.15 pm; Dinner: 7 pm and 9.30 pm

DIY on Asian griddles

Going out to eat in Japan is a pantomime. Visit an authentic Japanese okonomiyaki restaurant; here actions speak more than words. An okonomiyaki (Japanese pancake) course begins with asssorted bowls of ingredients like shredded cabbage (the Hiroshima version has par-boiled soba noodles), chopped up bits of raw seafood, juliennes of gari (pickled pink ginger) and katsuobushi (dried skipjack tuna) flakes aka bonito being placed next to you by a courteous server. In front is a stainless-steel teppan grill sizzling away producing aromas more complex than a Japanese dictionary.

Instructions come in the form of animated gesticulations by the server. She urges: mix all the ingredients with a thick slurry of refined wheat flour, beaten eggs and water and place the sum total on the lightly oiled teppan. She stands by like a sentinel, making sure you coax the mixture into a circular shape with the help of two tiny, metallic spatulas. Once it is grilled to perfection on one side, you’ve to flip the pancake and cook till the other side is equally crispy and golden brown. Once ready, aonori seaweed flakes, and additional katsuobushi are sprinkled all over it. Lashings of special okonomiyaki sauce, made from tomato ketchup-soy sauce-Worcestershire sauce-honey and the sweetish Kewpie Japanese mayonnaise, anoint the final product with edible goodness. This delicious DIY savoury pancake dish, perfectly named okonomiyaki, translates from Japanese to English to simply mean “as you like”. The running joke in Japan is that you get the best service at an okonomiyaki restaurant. Because you do it all yourself!

To further improve your Japanese culinary powers, more DIY options exist. Like the highly fun-to-prepare shabu-shabu. Onomatopoeically named for the swishing sound that emanates from the dashi stock (made from bonito flakes, konbu or kelp, mirinor rice wine and soy sauce)-filled pot when thin slivers of meats like pork and beef are swirled around, this preparation is best enjoyed with a group of friends. There is Chinese cabbage, shiitake and enokitake mushrooms for vegetarians. Once cooked, the meat pieces are dunked into a bowl of a yuzu, a citrus-based ponzu sauce or goma (sesame seed) sauce and chased down with morsels of rice.

Over to Thailand next. Similar to shabu-shabu, a Thai suki is another Asian DIY-style communal dish found at almost every street-food market from Bangkok’s Yaowarat market in China Town to Chiang Mai’s famous Night Market. To prepare a suki, diners place slices of meat, a few bits of seafood such as prawn and squid, pork balls and assorted veggies in a pot of lemongrass-flavoured broth bubbling away at the table. Once cooked, the meat or veggies are dipped into a bowl of spicy suki sauce, called namchimsuki in Thai, first.

Willy Wonkas on a Roll

Creating chocolate is an interesting mix of art and science. Precise temperature management in tempering, and achieving ingredient harmony for texture and taste are crucial. So is artistic flair. A small band of chocolatiers today are taking the humble nibs from the cacao tree, native to the Amazon rainforest, on a unique magical journey.

In around 2021, co-founders Amritanshu Agrawal and Priyanka Gupta of Chandigarh-based chocolate firm, Mozimo Cafe, set out on a quest for the ultimate chocolate. To them, chocolate symbolised art, exploration, and beauty. Over two years, they scoured markets worldwide. Deep in South India’s cocoa plantations, they bonded with sustainable growers, selecting heritage-rich beans. With cutting-edge machinery from Europe, they sought to craft an unparalleled artisanal chocolate experience. “Chocolate became our gateway to the global craft movement, blending techniques, fine beans and innovation,” says Gupta.

Ruby Islam

Some believe single-origin cacao beans are akin to grapes from a vineyard, resulting in chocolate that mirrors the soil and vintage, much like wine. While this holds true at times, beans marked as single-origin from places like Peru or Trinidad may actually originate from various farms within the area, each with unique terroir. “Historically our association with chocolate is with industrial chocolate made from bulk cacao. These beans are harvested and processed keeping solely productivity in mind. Flavour is not a concern,” says Ruby Islam, Head Chef, Manam Chocolate, Hyderabad. Manam, she insists, is made from ‘fine flavour’ beans, where the bean travels through a process that optimises flavour. “We try to isolate beans to not only single origins, but also to single farms so as to express the unique complexity,” she adds. At the café you can witness live artistry unfolding—from the vibrant workshop to the busy live kitchen replete with a chocolate aging cellar, where cocoa magic happens.

Twenty-year-old Digvijaya Singh always dreamt of being a chocolatier. This Udaipur boy was hooked on to the idea of bean-to-bar chocolates. Soon he started experimenting in his kitchen and today he is living the dream with his handcrafted chocolate company, Saraam. His first batch made with cacao sourced from a farm in Puttur, Karnataka, was launched in December 2021. A year later, he paired his chocolate with ber or the Indian jujube. “It was an instant hit,” says the maker, who later used sitaphal or custard apple for another concoction. He now sources beans from a farm in Idukki, Kerala, which he pairs with a variety of native fruits.

Craft chocolatiers are not complaining at the sudden rise in good-quality Indian cacao. “I like to combine flavours that are innovative and complement each other,” shares Dr Chef Parvinder Singh Bali, Director School for European Pastry and Culinary Arts, Delhi.

Priyanka Gupta

MOZIMO’S CHOCOLATE PIE

BY PRIYANKA GUPTA

Base

● Chocolate Oreo biscuit: 50 gm

● Unsalted butter: 25 gm

FILLING

● Cream: 70 gm

● Milk: 35 gm

● Unsalted butter: 10 gm

● Milk chocolate 45%: 30 gm

● Dark Chocolate 60%: 80 gm

GARNISH

● Oreo biscuit: 20 gm

● Powdered sugar: 5 gm

Method

● Remove the cream from the biscuits, crush them. Add soft butter to it and line it in a steel bowl

● Boil cream and milk together, add butter and chocolate and mix well and pour in the steel bowl

● Keep it in the refrigerator for two hours and garnish with powdered sugar and Oreo biscuits and serve

Care for a bite?

Calm in a teacup

Sri Lanka is slowly becoming the traveller’s cup of tea again. After Covid-19 hit tourism, it is banking on its signature teas to bring travellers back. The Pekoe Trail, a 300-km walk through the central highlands is the enticement. The introduction to the 22-stage trail, which can also be customised to suit time demands, is the brainchild of adventurer Miguel Cunat says “The trail combinees history and nature. The villages are alive with living heritage. From the plains, a minutes later you cross into a forest, where the feel is completely different. There are layers of stories here.” The trekking route begins from the Hanthana Mountains near Kandy and makes its way to the hill station of Nuwara Eliya, often called ‘Little England’ on account of its colonial bungalows and misty climate. On the way lie aromatic eucalyptus forests, undulating hills carpeted in lush green tea plants, flat plains, and Adam’s Peak, a 2,243 m-high mountain topped by a Buddhist shrine.

Malik J Fernando, Chair of Resplendent Ceylon, the only Relais and Chateaux-accredited resort collection on the island, says, “Conditions were ideal to grow what became the world-famous Ceylon tea, with multiple elevations imparting different characteristics,” he says. A network of scenic railroads was developed together with banks, insurance companies and the Colombo port to support the industry in the central highlands,which are resplendent with emerald fields, twisting roads, and gushing waterfalls.The first segment which was opened in 2021 winds its way through an eclectic cluster of hill towns, tea plantations, remote villages, sanctuaries, viewpoints, forests, and cultural and historical locations. The trail is supported by the EU and the United States Agency for International Development. Fernando calls it an innovative “slow travel” experience. It connects 80 hamlets and villages, until now rarely seen by foreigners, and showcases life on Sri Lanka’s tea estates and reveals how tea production has shaped the country’s landscape and history. It passes through Scotsman James Taylor’s Loolkandura Estate, the first plantation in Sri Lanka, old tea factories and colonial bungalows. Railway tracks wind their way along the hillsides. On the way, there is authentic food and drink available in local restaurants for travllers seeking indigenous experiences, stays in village homestays to get a feel of local culture firsthand, and also support other community-owned businesses.

Slowly but surely, the Pekoe Trail is helping Sri Lanka’s tourism industry get back on track. “The upcoming high season looks to be the best since 2018. Sri Lanka is back on all the ‘best places to travel’ lists,” Fernando says. It is tea time in Ceylon at last.

A rum affair with tiki cocktails

“Additionally, the Indian palate appreciates the balance of sweetness and complexity found in these cocktails,” believes Badh. Rum is a colonial hangover, pun intended, after the British officials started a distillery in Kasauli in Solan in Himachal Pradesh in 1855.

The newly launched Hawaiian-themed restobar Waikiki at Mumbai’s Peninsula Grand Hotel has the apricot rum-based zombie, the coconut rum-based Island Grog (beverage manager Deepak Singh Koranga’s personal favourite) and the white rum-based Tiki Puka Puka.

“Among the array of tiki cocktails on our menu, my personal favourite is ‘The Secret of the Lost Lagoon’. It is a blend of premium rum, maraschino liqueur, Campari, pineapple juice, passion fruit syrup and freshly squeezed lime juice. All these create a harmonious explosion of flavours,” says Souvik Bhattacharya, bartender at The St. Regis Goa Resort’s Susegado, Seafood Grill & Bar.

Don’t say just cheesesteak

Insta cuisine is eccentric at best and downright ridiculous at its worst. The ‘Everything is Cake’ trend is a beguiling social media trick of fantasy and reality: imagine you’re looking at a flower pot packed with mud and blooms in the middle. A hand with a knife appears. Flower pot murder isn’t even Agatha Christie’s domain. It is epicurean legerdemain: the knife plunges into its clay victim which isn’t clay, mind you. It is chocolate. And the metaphorical blood is coffee mousse, coffee ganache, espresso chocolate cake, buttercream and vanilla ice-cream.

This dessert is the pride of 1906, a fine dining restaurant in the sprawling Longwood Gardens, Brandywine Creek Valley just outside of Philadelphia. The main course has roasted beets, braised savoy cabbage and a juicy crab omelette. Philly, best known for its cheesesteak—a power-packed sandwich of beef, provolone and onions—usually is not a star in the gourmet galaxy of the East Coast, especially with New York as a close neighbour. But if you go beyond this epic sandwich, many surprises are guaranteed.

Shock and Awe: Take Vedge, for instance. The restaurant highlights local vegetables. Rutabaga (a root vegetable) becomes a fondue served with pretzels; chioggia (a garden beet) is salt-roasted and served with an arepa pancake and a smidge of black garlic; the cauliflower gets a ‘Chicken 65’ upgrade with a tangy spicy sauce; carrot is cooked rillette style (similar to a confit) and placed on pumpernickel toast; and rhubarb becomes a cheesecake with a sweet pea ice-cream.

Elsewhere, the Garden Restaurant at the Barnes, which looks out onto its blooming namesake, serves a comforting seasonal sweet corn and pumpkin squash soup; roast chicken paired with spring vegetables, herbs and horseradish beurré blanc; and a grilled salmon with puy lentils and sweet pea.

A 13-course journey in Mumbai’s Bandra

Décor: Cupped in toasted woody tones, and warm amber, the intimate restaurant brings in 12 teal hip seaters at the sole table, with an informal bar. The counter has been upcycled from a wooden bar top from The Bombay Canteen.

Service: You can expect warm, genuine, effortless service. The playlist sets the vibe easily, with numbers pulled in by Hussain from his personal stack.

Price: At Rs 5,000 plus taxes per head, this is not really easy on the pocket.

Timings: Wednesday to Saturday, 8 pm onwards. Below 18 years not allowed

Papa’s at Veronica’s, Bandra West, Mumbai

India’s gourmet pet food market booms as owners splurge on exotic treats

“There has been a significant increase in demand for gourmet pet food. Pet owners are treating their furry friends like family, since they have more disposable income to spend on their beloved wards. People are becoming savvier about pet nutrition, and look for high-quality ingredients,” explains Dr Shashank Sinha, CEO, Drools Pet food, a company that prides itself on making real, clean pet food which includes vegetarian, non-vegetarian and vegan options. This shift can be accredited to the rise of smaller nuclear families where pets are viewed as valued members, leading to a shift in mindset in pet parenting. “Millennials, are at the forefront of this trend, and are spoiling their furry companions with premium pet products and services,” he reveals.

On Raksha Bandhan day last year, Rani Singh was seized with the desire to pamper her golden lab bro Scotch. She ordered special treats from Paw Petisserie, an exclusive pet bakery. The order included customised edible Rakhi cookies made with peanut butter, which Scotch absolutely adores. They came with special Rakhi-themed decorations, making the memory extra special for Singh. Once Scotch had polished off every last tasty cookie, Singh gushed, “This was the ‘bestest’ Raksha Bandhan ever.”

Yashika Arora, the founder-CEO of Paw Petisserie, believes the outlet’s popularity is because everything is made with pet-safe ingredients. Patrons choose from exotic delights like chicken or mutton ice-cream, different flavours of jams, doughnuts, brownies, breads and salami. However, their most sought-after items are their chicken jerky and mutton chips. “Universally popular ingredients are chicken, peanut butter, yogurt and mutton. Pet parents love our products because everything is human-grade. Even the colours used as decorations for cakes and cupcakes are made from fruits and vegetables,” she shares.

Dozens hospitalised in Moscow with rare food poisoning after eating salads ordered online

MOSCOW: A suspected outbreak of a rare and extremely dangerous food poisoning in Moscow left more than 120 people seeking medical help and at least 30 in intensive care, health officials said on Monday.

The patients were admitted to hospital with suspected food-borne botulism, a life-threatening condition that attacks the nervous system and can cause respiratory failure and paralysis.

Russian authorities said the toxic outbreak came from salads distributed by a popular online delivery service, which on Sunday temporarily suspended its operations amid a criminal investigation.

“In total 121 people sought medical help,” state news agencies quoted Anastasia Rakova, the deputy mayor of Moscow, as saying on Monday.

“At the moment 55 people are in a serious condition, 30 of them in intensive care,” she added.

The city’s consumer and health watchdog, Rospotrebnadzor, said on Saturday it was conducting an “epidemiological investigation into suspected cases of botulism”.

And the Moscow prosecutor’s office said it had launched a criminal investigation into a breach of consumer safety standards.

Deputy Mayor Rakova said there was “no threat to the lives” of those who had been hospitalised thanks to timely medical intervention.

According to the World Health Organization, food-borne botulism cases can be fatal without rapid treatment with antitoxins.

Botulism is an extremely rare condition, typically caused by improperly processed food and linked to canned and preserved goods.

It does not pass between people.

The food delivery company linked to the outbreak, Kuchnia Na Rayone (“local kitchen”), said it had identified a “potential risk incident” with a salad that used tinned beans, and it had suspended orders.

There were 82 confirmed cases of botulism across the European Economic Area (EEA) in 2021, the last year of available data, according to the European Centre for Disease Prevention and Control.

Discover little Tokyo on the Rhine: Düsseldorf’s Japanese enclave

With more than 8,000 Japanese residents, Düsseldorf has the largest Japanese community in Germany and the third largest in Europe after London and Paris. How come? In the 1950s, growing economic ties between Japan and Düsseldorf led to many Japanese businessmen and their families to settle here. With them came Japanese doctors, hairdressers and restaurateurs, making the Immermannstrasse-Klosterstrasse block a Japanese enclave.

Beyond Little Tokyo is a slice of Japan in the Niederkassel district across the Rhine. Here, the EKÕ-Haus of Japanese Culture comprises a Buddhist temple, a house in traditional architectural style, a tea room, and a Japanese garden. Every year, the city celebrates Japan Day, an all-out Japanese culture festival of food, drink, music, dance performances, martial arts, and cosplay ending with a spectacular fireworks display on the Rhine.

If you have had your Japan fix and are hankering after a cold beer, worry not—after all, this is Germany. A short walk from Little Tokyo is Düsseldorf’s Altstadt or Old Town. It houses several historic buildings, but its main claim to fame is the nearly 300 pubs, restaurants, and bars, all located within half a sq km. Hence it is no surprise that it’s known as ‘the longest bar in the world’. Come evening, you will find hordes of people milling outside pubs, all quaffing beer from short, narrow glasses. Servers balancing trays weave around, replenishing drinks at lightning speed.

The beverage of choice here is Altbier, which literally translates as old beer since it is brewed in the traditional manner by using top-fermented yeasts. The full-bodied, amber-coloured beer is malty and crisp and is served in cylindrical 200- to 250-ml glasses. These are specifically designed to maintain the head, carbonation and temperature. While there are many breweries to choose from, Brauerei Schumacher is the oldest in Düsseldorf and has been brewing beer according to old family traditions since 1838.

Find a table inside (or stand outside) and ask for an “alt”. As you finish one glass, don’t be surprised if another magically appears in front of you and the server puts a tick mark on your coaster. As per local custom, the server will keep bringing you beer until you indicate you’re done by placing a coaster atop your glass. If that’s not Prost-worthy, what is?

‘Bengaluru ordered over 6 million burgers,’ says Swiggy

BENGALURU: Bengaluru ordered more than 6 million burgers over the past year, and has become the Burger Capital of India, says Swiggy. On the occasion of International Burger Day 2024, which falls on May 28, Swiggy has shared the latest burger ordering trends observed over the past year.

Swiggy has seen a significant increase in burger orders, with close to 40 million burgers ordered in the last year alone. A burger enthusiast from Chandigarh ordered as many as 1146 burgers on Swiggy, averaging about three burgers every single day!

Dinner and late-night hours emerged as the most popular times for indulging in burgers, accounting for over 19.5 million orders, Swiggy said. Lunchtime followed with 9.6 million orders, and snack time saw more than 7.4 million orders.

After Bengaluru, Mumbai saw close to 5 million orders and Delhi with over 3.2 million orders was just a little behind in the burger consumption race.

Fries and Coke were the top choices to accompany burgers, while cheese slice and cheese dip emerged as the most popular toppings.

Swiggy on Tuesday also said that its quick commerce arm Swiggy Instamart sold over 2,500 tonnes of mangoes. As the mango season hits its peak, Swiggy Instamart is experiencing an unprecedented surge in demand for the country’s most beloved fruit.

From Bengaluru to Mumbai, mango mania spans across cities with close to a million unique users experimenting with over 14 different varieties of the fruit. Notably, Bengaluru leads with close to half a million orders and a city user spending a whopping Rs 46,588 on mangoes. 

Frozen assets

Often considered the “holy grail” of gourmet, French cuisine has a definite and strict set of rules that govern the flow of courses. For instance, in a multi-course meal, a palate cleanser—by way of frozen preparations like the granular ice crystals of granitas and the smoother textured sorbets—serves as a crucial transition between dishes. Not only do they play a significant role in enhancing the overall dining experience, but they also provide a moment of palate refreshment and anticipation for the next course.

Taking this idea and giving it a localised fillip are a range of Indian chefs and restaurants. Each bringing something new to the table; infusing the traditional palate cleanser with smart innovation and oodles of desi nuance.

Freeze Tried

Offering a tart and mouth-puckeringly delicious black jamun sorbet to his diners is Jude Fernando, executive chef at the Four Seasons Mumbai. “In the past, we have experimented with various palate cleansers, ranging from traditional sorbets to innovative herb-infused granitas. We believe that palate cleansers should not only cleanse but also intrigue the palate, leaving a memorable impression on diners. By incorporating unexpected flavour combinations and textures, we strive to elevate the dining experience and stimulate conversation around the table,” he says.

For Kolkata-based consultant chef Shaun Kenworthy, it’s all about seasonality and locality. At a recent pop-up dinner—organised as part of the Spring Tea Trail foraging trip by Gurugram-based OMO Café in association with AMPM Cafe and Bar Calcutta—held at the Glenburn Tea Estate close to Darjeeling, he did just that. His slightly astringent-tasting granita made with the estate’s second flush tea and salt-pickled baby mangoes was a well-received ‘Act 5’ in an eight course meal. “It was almost an on-the-spot decision to work with tea as I was cooking on a tea estate and combining it with mangoes that had fallen in my garden in Kolkata. These, I went on to pickle in salt and serve atop the granita in small cutting chai glasses,” says Kenworthy who’s originally from Manchester, UK.

Ice Appeal

For a fine dining restaurant like the ITC’s Avartana (with outposts in Chennai, Kolkata and Mumbai) and one that is built around the concept of multiple course menus, having a vast number of palate cleansers seems de rigueur. They do this with an interesting quartet of a cucumber-apple sorbet, a lemon leaf sorbet, an orange-ginger one and perhaps the most unique of all being the prickly pear sorbet.

“We wanted to evoke nostalgic memories while offering a refreshing break for the palate. Each sorbet reflects a blend of familiar flavours with a twist, tapping into childhood memories and cultural traditions. Ingredients like cucumber, lemon and ginger work exceptionally well in refreshing the palate without overwhelming it,” says Diptii Jadhav, senior sous chef at the Mumbai branch.

From Welsh cakes to Glamorgan sausage: Exploring Wales' unique gastronomic heritage

The food explorer gets off the train, who has travelled from London to Cardiff in barely two hours, and is greeted by an affable, smiling woman at the platform. She says a quick Croeso (welcome) and hands over a paper bag, still warm, containing two Welsh cakes. Part pancakes, part cookies, the small, circular cakes, known as bakestones or picau ar y maen in Welsh, are made with flour, butter, sugar, currants, raisins and warming spices. Sian Roberts, the founder of Loving Welsh Food, the first and only company offering food tours in Cardiff and the Vale of Glamorgan, says she loves food tourism as you “try foods that you wouldn’t try elsewhere. You won’t get a Welsh cake or faggots in Scotland, and you won’t get boxty or haggis in Wales”.

Bordered by England to the east and the water on all other sides, Wales, also known as the ‘Land of Song’, is renowned for its craggy coastline, mountainous parks and Celtic culture. Medieval chronicler Giraldus Cambrensis wrote that Wales is a “country very strongly defended by high mountains, deep valleys, extensive woods, rivers, and marshes; insomuch that from the time the Saxons took possession of the island the remnants of the Britons, retiring into these regions, could never be entirely subdued either by the English or by the Normans”.

The country’s identity stands apart through its quintessentially Welsh cuisine as opposed to the rest of Britain’s potpourri calling the kettle black culture of steak and kidney pudding, haggis and chicken tikka masala. Roberts has designed a four-hour, food-focused odyssey across Cardiff, through market stalls, streets and arcades. Her plan is for her epicurean clients to sample traditional Welsh eats such as cheeses, cockles, ciders, laverbread, faggots and bara brith.

Traditional Welsh cooking derives from the diet of the region’s working man: coal miner, farmer, fisherman or labourer. With great numbers of its workforce historically spending long, exhausting days at work, the food had to be hearty, resourceful, filling—and delicious. All with a few staples: fresh vegetables (typically leeks and cabbage), fish, meat and flour. “Welsh cooking uses local ingredients in different ways. Then, people didn’t have access to ingredients from all over the world or sophisticated cooking equipment. They had to be as creative as possible with limited resources,” Roberts says.

olives

Lamb and beef feature prominently on the menu as do the fruits of the sea such as cockles, salmon, trout, white crab and lobsters. Welsh cooking follows the nose-to-tail philosophy of creating hearty meals from every bit of meat and produce.

Be it the cawl, a meaty stew served with crusty bread and salted butter at The Welsh House, an upmarket restaurant in the heart of Cardiff, or the faggots—meatballs typically made of minced pork offal (heart, liver, or spleen)—mixed with onions, spices such as sage or parsley, and breadcrumbs, or the laverbread—‘Welshman’s caviar’—made from seaweed collected off the coast; the dishes are simple, yet a feast for the tastebuds. The cawl, a one-pot meal originally cooked in an iron pot over an open fire, is a comforting, warming dish. “Cheaper cuts of lamb and seasonal vegetables are used to make this family favourite,” she reveals.

Roberts takes her clients to see Wally’s Delicatessen, in Cardiff’s Royal Arcade, where a range of local cheeses are displayed alongside a charcuterie board, and ciders. Among Caerphilly, a local cheese now largely produced in England, the crowd-favourites are Black Bomber, Teifi and Perl Wen. Roberts then leads the tasting party to Cardiff Market to try faggots with mushy peas, cooked cockles with laverbread, meat pie, and a slice of pizza at Pizza Boyz, an award-winning outlet founded by twins born in Swansea.

cockles

Other gourmet must-haves in Wales are giant oggies—large pasties that miners had for lunch; tatws pum munud, a four-ingredient traditional Welsh dish that uses cheap cuts of meat with easily found vegetables. “The name, tatws pum munud, translates into five-minute potatoes. However, that’s very misleading since the recipe takes at least an hour to cook!” Roberts laughs. The Glamorgan sausage—a vegetarian surprise—is again a family favourite since it is a “simple and great way to use up leftover bread and cheese”. Roberts adds leeks and carrots to the mixture and “lots of parsley and thyme”.

The food tour ends at The Welsh House, an independent regional restaurant and bar, with a round of coffee and bara brith, the traditional ‘speckled bread’ which is a cake studded with sultanas and raisins served on a bed of warm custard. It does hits the sweet spot.

Welsh sweet treats—be it the teisen lap or Welsh cakes—are made on the griddle as most homes couldn’t afford an oven. “All Celtic countries have dishes that are cooked on a griddle. In Scotland, they make flat breads, boxty, shortbread, bannocks, buttermilk scones, potato cakes, oat cakes and pancakes. In Wales, we use the griddle for Welshcakes, teisen lap, breads and oat cakes,” Roberts says.

It’s clear that the thrifty people of Wales added a dollop of innovation and made food to match their lifestyle, and pocket. Welsh food offers plenty of food for thought.

Bulgur: A Mesopotamian mystery

Legends have forgotten legacies. Like for example the jewel of Middle Eastern cooking, bulgur.

Loved by Chinese emperors and ancient Babylonians, this popular grain is made from durum wheat and is storming food correctness in fancy kichens with fancier chefs. Ironically, it is considered one of the world’s first processed foods: In eastern Mediterranean villages, the practice still is to boil the wheat in huge pots, even for days, until it is thoroughly cooked. Then dry it on rooftops in the sun, and break up the hardened kernels into coarse pieces. The versatile grain is parted into various sizes for different preparations. Though boiling may remove some vitamins and minerals from the outer layers, they return go the grain when it is cooked.

“Bulgur is a versatile ingredient. At my restaurant Allegro, I have used to it make Bircher muesli, or as a granola crumb mixed with nuts to top off our chia seed pudding. With a lot of our menus focusing on health and wellbeing, I have made a lemon bulgur (my version of a lemon rice) with it and even an Asian version of fried rice with sweet soy sauce, edamame and steamed chicken,” says Apoorva Kunte, executive chef at The Westin Melbourne.

Tabbouleh salad

In the history of society, the discovery of wheat led to the growth of agricultural communities and acquired popular approval and imperial acclaim. Sumerian Goddesses of lore have “wheat” in their names. In the 2800’s BC, wheat went divine when Chinese Emperor Shen Nung declared it a holy grain. Then a nameless Bronze Age woman discovered a way to make a new grain from wheat, later called bulgur. It occupied a pedestal in Mesopotamian cuisine thanks to its nutritious benefits; it was also cheaper for labourers to make. “Bulgur has a number of great nutrients, similar to quinoa or couscous. I like its mild flavour and light texture. It is equally suited to both spring and summer when I make fritters with wild garlic, new potatoes and, at times, feta. It goes perfectly with vine-roasted tomatoes,” London-based Michelin Star Chef Atul Kochhar lets you into a bulgur secret.

Available in four grades, ranging from fine to very coarse, its versatility makes it a special grain. World War II combat chefs used it as a staple to feed the troops and also used it as a sand-blasting agent to clean airplane parts. The gourmet battlefield is full of chefs competing to find new ingredients and innovative recipes. “Medium, coarse, or very coarse bulgur is good for pilaf, while the fine version is ideal for tabbouleh and kibbeh,” reveals Arun Thakur, executive sous chef, Shangri-La Eros New Delhi.

Gehu ki kheech

Unlike cracked wheat, bulgur is precooked, requiring just 20 minutes of soaking or simmering before preparation. With a delightful nutty flavour and light texture, it works well for quick, tasty meals. “I use it in Gehu Ka Khichda, a traditional dish from Rajasthan, also known as ‘kheech’. It is prepared during Makar Sankranti and Akshaya Tritiya. This luscious sweet delicacy is traditionally crafted from whole wheat, milk, sugar and dry fruits. Distinct from the simple cracked wheat porridge known as dalia, the whole wheat is soaked and husked. We also use bulgur to make laapsi, another delightful dessert, usually made with wheat,” says Chef Abhilasha Jain, founder, Marwadi Khana.

Sustainability and organic being the current buzzwords, chefs like Harish Rao, Master Chef Tamil Season 1, cook the grain in rich vegetable stock to elevate the flavour. “The instant organic stock streamlines the process. Enhanced with robust vegetable stock, onions and a touch of garlic or aired with mixed vegetables, feta and a drizzle of olive oil, bulgur transcends simplicity, guaranteeing enraptured diners.”

In Syria, some weeks after freekeh (roasted green durum wheat) season gets over, the wheat fields shine in the sun like pure gold. It is bulgur season. It is announced across an entire village and it is time to celebrate an ancient tradition dating back to Mesopotamia. The empire is long dead, but the grain thrives as its legacy forever, whether it be in posh restaurants or ancient village kitchens.

BULGUR TEA CAKES

Ingredients:

● Bulgur: 1/4 cup

● Refined flour: 3/4 cup

● Baking powder: 1/2 tsp

● Salt: 1/8 tsp

● Oil: 113 gm

● Vanilla essence: 1 tsp

● Orange zest: 2 tsp

● Eggs: 2

● Caster sugar: 100 gm

● Ube paste: 1 tsp

● Rose water: 1 tsp

● Pandan paste: 1 tsp

For Garnish:

● Soaked bulgur: 2 tsp

● Melted white chocolate: 30 gm

● Baking time: 15 mins

● Baking temp: 180 degrees C

Method:

● In a mixing bowl, break the eggs and add sugar, then whisk at high speed. Add vanilla essence and orange zest, set aside. In another bowl, sieve in refined flour, baking powder, salt and bulgur, then mix. Slowly fold this mixture into the beaten egg-sugar mixture. Add 30-40 ml of refined oil and fold further, then fold in the remaining oil.

● Divide the batter into three parts and fold in the flavourings individually. Allow the batter to rest in the fridge for 30-40 minutes. Brush some oil into the tea cake moulds, remove the batter from the fridge, and spoon it into the moulds filling them 3/4 of the way. Preheat the oven, then bake the tea cakes for 12-14 mins. Remove and allow to cool on a wire rack. Drizzle melted white chocolate over the tea cakes and sprinkle bulgur on top.

A journey of taste

Goa is where investion and innovation thrives. It is a tiny enclave of myriad habits and tastes, with food taking the prize. Like in Taupe, the latest addition to Assagao’s bustling neighbourhood. Conceived by the team behind the popular Titlie, it marries regional cuisine with Goa’s susegad vibe.

Food: Chef Tarun Sibal ensures that while he experiments with the flavour combinations, the dishes are familiar. The food honours India’s rich cultural diversity through salads, chaats, kebabs, curries and desserts. The Mutton Seekh is rather predictable, though its spicy succulence and tenderness scores a definite A. Cheemmen Masala with set dosa is a Malayali thing; the prawns cooked to the right softness in coconut-flavoured curry. A crowd-favourite is the Creamed Burrata Papdi Chaat. But the Moong Dal Ladoo, inspired from the popular street-style Ram laddoo has room for improvement. In the Onion Sumac Kulcha served with kali dal, the sumac adds a tangy and smoky flavour. The Veg Rendang Korma with sticky rice is comfort food. The Coconut Milk Panna Cotta made with chunky pieces of mango jaggery, is light-on-the-gastric juices; a perfect just dessert.

Service: The servers are well-versed with the menu. They are quick to catch your eye and attend to your queries.

Décor: Housed inside a 115-year-old Portuguese villa, the many shades of taupe are soothing in a Goan afternoon. The al fresco area gives a tropical getaway vibe.

Price: The cost of the dishes ranges from Rs 475-675. Speaking for the quality, the fare is reasonable without burning a hole in your pocket.

Address: Anjuna Mapusa Road, Saunto Vaddo, Assagao, Goa 403507

Timings: 12.30 pm-3.30 pm and 7 pm to 11.30 pm

Sanjay Thumma: The Chef of searches

The story goes that when Chef Sanjay Thumma’s mother was pregnant with him, she opened the lid of the biriyani pot and felt her water break. “She was rushed to the hospital and 15 minutes after that, I was born. I was called the Biriyani Kid all through my childhood,” Thumma chuckles. Nobody knew at the time that his destiny would be linked with food. Today, the 54-year-old, also known as VahChef, is a renowned chef with 2.5 million subscribers on his YouTube channel Vahrehvah where he teaches his audience to create a variety of Indian dishes. His mammoth fan following extends to millions of Indian expatriate communities in mainland Europe, the US and other parts of the world.

A familiar face on television, having appeared on MasterChef India Hindi as a guest judge and now as a judge on MasterChef India Telugu on SonyLIV, Thumma emerged as the most-searched Indian chef, the third-most Googled chef in Asia and 15th worldwide in a survey by a US-based global adventure company, Explore Worldwide. They analysed 12 months of Google data and Thumma’s name appeared in 7,26,000 searches. Other chefs of Indian origin on the list include Kunal Kapur, Maneet Chauhan, Gaggan Anand and Madhur Jaffrey.

There are many celebrity chefs and Michelin-star chefs across the world, but Thumma’s popularity shows that one does not need those labels or awards to have a connection with the audience. Go through any of the videos the Hyderabad-based chef posts on his YouTube channel and you will get an idea of why they receive millions of views within a few hours of being posted. The smile on his face as he talks about food and the dish he is going to prepare, punctuated with one-liners and jokes, is something that endears him to his fans across the world.

“I get my humour from my father who is 84 years old. Even today when I visit him, there is constant laughter and fun,” he shares. For Thumma, it is important that he comes across as a friend to his viewers. At the end of each video, when he scoops up a morsel of the dish he has prepared and relishes it, it is his expression ‘boomba boomba’ that his followers wait for. “Earlier it was ‘dhinchik dhinchik’,” he laughs, adding, ‘boomba boomba’ is the ultimate happiness when you feel fully satisfied with the meal. “It was an instinctive expression I had when I went to MasterChef India Hindi as a guest judge,” he laughs.

Thumma was hardly eight years old when his mother was bedridden for a few weeks because of a medical issue. The young boy was entrusted with the responsibility of the kitchen. “I was a naughty kid. To keep me away from mischief, my mom would give me chores in the kitchen.

I would observe her cooking and when she fell sick, that observation was put to test,” he recalls. From learning to make rice to making dal, scrambled eggs, dosa and upma, Thumma did it all. Little wonder that later he chose to study Hotel Management and even opened his own restaurant in Chicago, before moving back to Hyderabad in 2008.

Chef Thumma’s future plans include inspiring his followers to grow their own food. He also wants to take his viewers back 5,000 years ago and share his research on how people back then would cook and eat.

“I want to do something I can continue for the next decade,” he says.

From war refuge to bed and breakfast: Unearthing Brno’s subterranean delights

It was once a bomb shelter. But on early winter mornings, 10-Z Bunker is where you go to find refuge from the cold, and a room for the night. 10-Z, after all, may have once been a refuge from the threat of nuclear war, but today, it serves as a bed and breakfast. Albeit a very cold one.

It is just one of the many subterranean delights found in Brno, a city in Czech Republic. It’s a fascinating city above the ground, replete with dark bars, good beer, modernist buildings and much history. Dig deeper, or just go underground, to find more treasure and history. There’s the Capuchin Crypt with skeletons of the monks of the order, some still clutching their rosaries and crucifixes; their bodies preserved by the dry air.

The 10-Z Bunker gives a glimpse of what life could’ve been, while over in the main square, the Labyrinth underneath Zelný trh (Vegetable Market) showcases what life was like.

In the early 13th century, the cellars under the Horní trh (Upper Market) were used for storage of food, wine, and beer—think of them as old-school refrigerators. They were built under people’s homes at the time, and functioned as shelters during wartime. A guided tour here shows an alchemist’s lab where doctors and physicians once practised, and a wine cellar and tavern harking back to the local tradition of winemaking. Perhaps the most chilling is the section showing the punishments for dishonest people —there are replicas of torture devices and a cage of fools (a small iron cage where people couldn’t sit or stand).

Špilberk Castle is the city’s biggest landmark, and has much to see above and below the ground. It is under the hill on which the castle stands that Germans built 10-Z Bunker during WWII, as a civil defence shelter from American and Soviet bombardment of Brno. It served as a wine store after the war before being confiscated by the Communists, and ultimately opening to public in 2016 as a retro hotel. Under the castle, you can find the casemates, which resound with the untold stories of political prisoners. Back in the 1700s, these prisons were once considered one of the harshest in Europe, and were in use during the Nazi occupation of Czechoslovakia. Today, there are dummies showcasing living conditions.

At the entrance of 10-Z, visitors are greeted by a row of thick Army field jackets, which help deal with the temperature in this bunker (a few degrees colder than outside). A labyrinth of dark tunnels, decorated with rows of Army hats, medicine boxes, gas masks, an old Army motorbike, telephones, typewriters, and old sinks, lead to different rooms. There is a diesel generator engine room, air filtration room, battery room, an emergency telephone exchange and a decontamination room that form the technical part of the shelter. Tiny televisions screen short videos and documentaries of the people who built and took shelter in the bunker during WWII. There’s even a ‘cell of death’ door, taken from a Brno prison, which has carvings of prisoners who were sentenced to death during WWII.

Japanese cocktails stir up a savory storm in city bars

A solo iceball clinks against the delicate glass as the bartender serves up the Japanese highball with frozen whiskey. Sake bombs and shochu sours have competition. Shiso leaves, pickled yuzu, and koji-cultured rice and more are making it to edgy oriental cocktails on the go. It’s a state of umami in motion with Japanese restobars sprouting up in cities across the country. The growing popularity of Japanese cuisine over the past few years has thickened interest in experiencing the neatness of Japanese cocktails.

Says Avantika Malik, Head Mixologist, Mizu Izakaya, in Mumbai, “It is the umami kick in the unique play of savoury flavours, coming up in a perfect balance of precision and elegance that works in Japanese cocktails. These drinks bring in an immersive adventure.” Fruit-forward cocktails, spicy runs and dramatic accents in the tall, cool elixirs are racing across the menus. Ketan Satpute, Assistant F&B Manager, Hyatt Centric Juhu Mumbai, lists the Umeshu Aperol Spritz as a popular pick, with the plum liquor bringing in a decided piquant taste pandering to the millennial palate.

Malik believes ingredients in a drink need to be viable. “I love playing around with fruits, including pickled plum, passionfruit; yuzu for a citrusy spin. Arima sansho is the perfect pepper that brings in a spicy edge, with its mix of slightly sweet, salty, sharp flavours. Sometimes the availability is challenging,” she confesses, having had to remove concoctions from the menu for months for this reason. “I make generous use of the red pickled ginger beni shoga, and the fresh shiso leaves in my preparations. There is no locally available substitute for these,” she rues.

She has also been experimenting with Japanese tea finished over pinewood, pear cider accents, a touch of bamboo to rev up the edgy spin. While pinprick bubbles race to the surface at gleeful tables, super expensive ingredients make their way into the melee of essentials.

Malvani cuisine: Spice, spice baby

Chef Dilip Bavkar expertly stirs and mixes the cashew apple curry with an overpowering aroma. It’s the ethereal setting that provides the extra magic. A Malvani cooking class on an airy gazebo overlooking the Arabian Sea at Coco Shambala in Sindhudurg, near the pristine Bhogwe beach, is an experience not to be missed. Bavkar shows how to make the brilliant orange Malvani masala, ground with as many as 14 spices from poppy seeds to mace and cloves, simmering the cashew fruit in it, till it turns soft. Next is a tangy prawn curry, with coriander seeds, dried red chillies, raw mango, coconut, ginger, garlic and onions, ground into a paste. Last on the list is a delicious dessert made of cooked sago pearls and sweet Alphonso mango puree mixed with coconut milk.

Malvan, a scenic fishing town in the Sindhudurg district on the south Konkan coast, the land of the mercurial Marathas, is a mix of two words—‘Maha’, meaning a large piece of land and ‘Lavan’ meaning salt, which was once produced here. The picturesque land is hemmed in by the Arabian sea on one side, and the Sahyadri mountains on the other. The cuisine is an amalgamation of culinary influences from Maharashtra, Goa and Karnataka. The region is dotted with mango orchards laden with succulent Alphonso mangoes, cashew and kokum trees and of course coconut palms, and this reflects in what’s found on the plates.

Suhas Malewadkar, the F&B Manager at Coco Shambhala, explains, “We use a lot of red chillies and spices, as well as a generous dose of coconut in various forms. Being on the coast, seafood is an integral part. But the cornerstone of this cuisine is the aromatic Malvani masala, which is a mix of different spices like coriander and poppy seeds, fennel, mustard, cardamom, bay leaf, cinnamon, clove, nutmeg etc. Vatan, an onion, ginger, garlic and coconut paste, forms the base. In most dishes a souring agent is added, according to what is available in the season, from tamarind or raw mango to kokum.”

Utterly gheelicious

Chef Sarah Todd deftly splashes a generous spoonful of the intensely aromatic, caramel-hued fat every now and then over the slowly basting filet of pomfret. As the culinary executive and brand ambassador of The Sanctuary Bar & Kitchen in Anjuna, Goa, she cooks her favourite fish dish with her newest fat of choice—ghee. It blends seamlessly with the zing from her caper salsa and the freshness of the citrus and parsley sauce.

Ditching good old butter for ghee seems to be the most prudent move by chefs across the country. No wonder that the recent edition of the well-respected Godrej Food Trends Report 2024 has predicted that ghee’s natural goodness and its traditional link to Ayurveda will contribute to its renewed appeal as a healthy kitchen staple this year. And we see umpteen instances of the revival in preparations as diverse as Western-style desserts and even cocktails.

The Good Fat

“Unlike butter, ghee can withstand higher cooking temperatures without burning, making it perfect for achieving that delicate balance of searing and simmering,” believes Todd, adding, “Moreover, its nutty, caramel-like flavour profile adds an extra layer of complexity.”

But then ghee, or as the French call it, clarified butter, has always been a bit of a culinary chameleon. The journey of ghee from being a staple in Indian households to becoming a beloved ingredient in high-end restaurants is a testament to its versatility and the global culinary community’s appreciation for its rich flavour and high smoke point.

However, it may not be a one-stop fat solution to all Western-style dishes. Chef Matteo Fracalossi, the executive chef at the Andaz Delhi, uses ghee in his fresh herb risotto that has ghee-poached Japanese scallop, prosecco foam, lemon zest sitting atop it. “Not all preparations can use ghee as a replacement for butter, but if you find the right combination, it will certainly result in a surprisingly different taste,” says Fracalossi.

Indigenous Interpretations

Giving us a fine dining desi perspective on ghee is a truly unique concept restaurant called VARR Temple Food of India by Hotel Ganga Kinare in the holy city of Rishikesh. Here the entire menu is made only with pure ghee. “Ghee serves as a premium ingredient in both traditional and fusion cuisines, adding richness and depth to a wide array of dishes, from savoury to sweet,” opines corporate chef Deepak Bhatt, adding, “We even use it in our drinks such as panchamrit (cow milk, ghee, honey, Ganga jal and tulsi) and dhuaan chaas—a buttermilk drink smoked with ghee and sizzling coal.”

Nut chocolate butter; Paneer chilgoza kofta

Unusual Suspects

Speaking of drinks, riding the whole ‘fat-washed’ cocktail wave is an interesting ghee-washed cocktail called Cha available at House of Nomad at the Taj Holiday Village Resort & Spa in Sinquerim, North Goa. “It pays homage to India’s rich flavours with a blend of ghee-washed dark rum infused with cinnamon, a Darjeeling tea concoction, palm jaggery and homemade Nagpur orange bitters. This exquisite cocktail captures the essence of India’s diverse culinary heritage,” says Archita Gupta, the former assistant director of food and beverage of the resort.

Ending the ‘ghee renaissance 2.0’ on a sweet note are not one, but two desserts that reflect the desi fat’s prowess. On one hand we have Chef Tushar Malkani of The Yellow House, Anjuna IHCL SeleQtions, Goa, who talks about his ghee chocolate truffles that he gives a twist to along with grated coconut added to it to enhance the strength and character of ghee. While on the other, Chef Niriksha Reddy, sous chef at the ITC Grand Central, Mumbai makes a nut chocolate butter using ghee. “By incorporating ghee into drinks and desserts, chefs can blend traditional Indian flavours with Western influences.” May the steady stream of ghee continue to drench us all in its goodness.

Devaras: The homecoming

Restaurants don’t always use traditional family recipes. But when the Devarsetty family opened Devaras in Dubai in July last year, humble Andhra home fare was their calling card. They have now opened their first outpost in India.

Food: While the food has staple South Indian specialities like idli and vada, opt for the neer dosa served with a mix of grated coconut and jaggery. The soft texture of the dosa is bound to melt in your mouth. You could also try the Ghee red miripudi dosa, that is crisp on the outside and has miripudi and onions on the inside. The Gangala dosa, served with a brinjal curry, is steamed before it is tossed on the tava. The taste, however, is an acquired one and may not appeal to all. Don’t miss the Avakai rice—rice mixed with the famed mango pickle of Andhra Pradesh. It is bound to strike the right note. Don’t leave before trying the Palkova bun, a regular bun stuffed with a khova and jaggery mix that is the perfect sweet ending.

Service: The service is quick and efficient. You can see how your food is being prepared in the large open kitchen.

Décor: Done up in pastel hues with large custom-made wallpaper, the design is all about minimalistic elegance. The wall design uses motifs like temples, peacocks, elephants and nature.

Price: The food is reasonably priced with a meal for two costing about Rs 250. The set thali costs Rs 120 and is wholesome.

Address: Ground Floor, Police Station, 25, Dr Rajkumar Road, Beside Subramanya Nagar, E block, 2nd Stage, Rajajinagar, Bengaluru: 560010

Timings: Open all days, 7.30 am to 10 pm

Elements of Taste

A mother and son walk into Erth Restaurant in Al Hosn in Abu Dhabi for lunch. They are just in time to occupy the last available table. While the boy enthusiastically narrates the happenings of school, his mother picks up the ceramic vase placed on the table and scans it for the menu. Emirati spiced hasselback potatoes, Local organic zucchini gratin and a Cauliflower tabbouleh are ordered.

The ethos of Erth is Emirati, not just in terms of the menu but also where the design and vibe are concerned. There is a predominantly earthy theme. The ceramic artisanal plates and vases have been curated from a studio on Saadiyat Island of Abu Dhabi. The stone for the live cooking stations was hewn and shaped from the mountain of Jebel Hafeet. The low lying seating is reminiscent of a majlis with the convenience of not actually sitting on the floor.

Erth Restaurant

By this time, the Hasselback potatoes served with sumac, chives and parsley have been polished off. The Zucchini gratin with butternut is wholesome but not heavy on the stomach. The Tabbouleh with a green loumi dressing, parsley, hazelnut and lime satiates the senses. A couple sitting at the corner table are celebrating their anniversary with the signature dish of Thareed ravioli. This traditional Emirati dish consists of a stew made with lamb or chicken, vegetables and spices. It is layered with pieces of thin bread called Regag. They order a side of Torched locally farmed salmon crudo and Margooga—a flavourful stew made from vegetables and meat.

On another table, there is only dessert, each more tantalising than the other. A plate of Luqaimat is placed centre stage. Crispy-fried dough balls are drizzled with date syrup or honey and sprinkled with sesame seeds. The Emirati cheese cake is served on a bed of berries jam with honey gel. Fresh raspberries, blueberries and blackberries sit alongside the cheese cake. Erth recently became the first Emirati restaurant in the world to win a Michelin star. It boasts the unique Pistachio rahash, a drink made with camel milk, pistachios, vanilla and rahash—a halwa made from tahini.

An array of beverages

The head chef—Chef Debi Prasad—is an Odisha native. His passion for cooking was simmered while observing his mother prepare traditional dishes in their family kitchen. The chef’s culinary ethos revolves around selecting locally sourced ingredients to create dishes that honour traditional influences.

Little wonder that he found his way to Erth, which means legacy in Arabic.

The Herbalcohol Way

Call it the American cilantro, the desi dhaniya or the Bambaiyya kothmir, coriander is one herb that we can’t seem to get enough of. Displaying its versatility in a tangy chutney, as a zesty garnish sprinkled atop a myriad of dishes or its powdered seeds in a masala, the herb has always ruled our kitchens.

Now it is making for the bar. Bartenders use coriander in a range of drinks; alcoholic, mocktails and fruit punches. Partaking in several libations across the country the fresh, almost citrus-y taste, gives the drink a je ne sais quoi that’s hard to pinpoint. From its leaves and flavour-packed stalks to its seeds—that seem to take on a whole new form when roasted—coriander is as versatile as Steve Martin and Ayan Ali Bangash put together.

Tequila Tastes

Let’s start with a cliché: A pretty obvious coupling of coriander with a Mexican-inspired tequila margarita. The Centro Paradiso at Mehico, a Mexican restobar in Kolkata, is a spicy, citrus-infused tequila cocktail complemented by herbaceous notes from zesty coriander leaves and a touch of even more freshness from cucumber and yuzu, with the heat coming from jalapeno pepper. “Coriander adds depth and complexity to the cocktail, balancing the heat of the jalapeno and the crispness of the cucumber,” says Manoj Singh Rawat, head mixologist at Mehico.

Veering down a similar path is Vishan Kashyap, mixologist at the SFX bar, Taj Fort Aguada Resort and Spa, Goa. The twist he brings to the drink, however, is a spicy roasted coriander and chilli salt that he uses to rim the glass, which holds forth a spicy cocktail which is also garnished with a coriander frond. “I needed the roasted coriander to bring in an Indian element. The two food and drink cultures of Mexico and India—especially Goa where we are located—are so similar with plenty of coriander used, that I had to put in my own spin,” says Kashyap.

A bunch of coriander

Leave it be!

But it’s not just the obvious tequila that fronts coriander-based cocktails. Coriander is spicing up vodka and greening the gin craze in India too.

Calling it a great “entry level cocktail” Vaibhav Billava, bar manager at Mumbai’s revamped iconic Italian restaurant, Napoli by Shatranj, created the Giulio Cocchi cocktail as an homage to Giulio Cocchi, an Italian distiller and herbalist who founded the Cocchi company in the late 19th century. “Inspired by his legacy, we created a refreshing cocktail using gin, watermelon, coriander, and garnish it with watermelon rind pickle,” says Billava. “Coriander gives a refreshing flavour, which is perfect for those new to cocktails.”

At The Blue Bar, Taj Palace in New Delhi, the Shang-Hai Gimlet offers a twist on the classic. One that is made from Grey Goose vodka, La Grande Passion liqueur, ginger, coriander, lime, cumin, garlic, chilli and orange shrub. “Our reimagining of a classic gimlet embraces the essence of coriander. The herb’s freshness adds a unique dimension, elevating the overall experience,” believes Joel Scholtens Lindsay, liquid chef and head mixologist.

Tripling with two other popular herbs, basil and fennel, coriander is found in all its punchy glory in the aptly named cocktail Feelin’ Good. Available at Cobbler & Crew in Pune, this gin cocktail sees coriander in its seed form along with the aforementioned fennel and basil. “Feelin’ Good gives a new twist to a traditional summer favourite. It’s made with refreshing basil, cucumber, and a hint of coriander seeds and fennel. This combination brings out herbaceous and aromatic notes, making every sip a ‘feeling good’ experience,” says Mayur Marne, partner at Cobbler & Crew.

Centro Paradiso

Zero-proof Wonders

Interestingly, it’s not just cocktails that are going down the fragrant coriander-lined path. There are a few non-alcoholic libations that seek to give you all the requisite coriander freshness, sans the buzz.

Pandan Club, Chennai’s hippest restobar, has on its menu the Tebu Tebu which they say reflects its commitment to using locally sourced ingredients like homemade sugarcane juice, which provides the base, infused with the citric flavours of yuzu, the aromatic essence of galangal, and the subtle earthiness of coriander seeds. “The coriander seeds add a spicy kick. It is the stealth ingredient of mixology: cutting through sweetness like a seasoned pro, yet often overshadowed by its leafy counterpart,” believes co-founder at Pandan Club, Manoj Padmanaban.

As one of Ahmedabad’s newest fine dining restaurants, Pepito sends out a host of non-alcoholic drinks. One such is the coriander-fronted Guava Picante. “This one is a zesty mocktail where the sweetness of guava is blended with the refreshing kick of coriander,” says mixologist Arjun Aasava.

Zesty, refreshing, flavour-packed—all adjectives that perfectly describe the familiarity and comfort of coriander. A herb that we’re only too happy to see, not just atop our plates, but now in our glasses as well.

Costly onion, tomato and potato make the thali dearer this year

In a startling turn of events, the humble vegetarian thali, a staple for millions across India, has emerged as a villain in the life of the financially stressed, with its price going up by 7% in March. The culprits behind this gastronomic inflation? None other than the trio of onion, tomato, and potato, whose prices have soared to new heights, leaving consumers teary-eyed and their wallets lighter.

According to the “Roti Rice Rate” report released by Crisil Market Intelligence and Analysis, an arm of the domestic rating agency Crisil, the cost of a vegetable thali – a delightful ensemble of roti, vegetables (onions, tomatoes, and potatoes), rice, dal, curd, and salad – has risen to Rs 27.3 per plate in March from Rs 25.5 in the year-ago period. However, there’s a silver lining: it’s still cheaper than the Rs 27.4 charged in February 2024.

The report reveals that the vegetable thali’s price hike is attributed to a staggering surge in onion (40 per cent), tomato (36 per cent), and potato (22 per cent) prices compared to the previous year. The culprit behind this? Lower arrivals of onion and potato, coupled with a low base for tomatoes from the last fiscal year.

But the story doesn’t end there. The report also highlights that rice prices have increased by 14 per cent, while pulses have jumped by 22 per cent, thanks to lower arrivals in the market.

In a surprising twist, the non-vegetarian thali, where dal is replaced by chicken, has seen a 7 per cent decline in price, settling at Rs 54.9 compared to Rs 59.2 in the year-ago period. However, it’s still higher than the Rs 54 charged in February. The primary reason for this decline is a 16 per cent drop in broiler prices, which account for 50 per cent of the overall cost of the non-vegetarian thali.

But before you get too excited about the prospect of cheaper chicken, the report warns that broiler prices have increased by 5 per cent compared to February due to the start of the holy month of Ramadan and higher demand.

As the cost of living continues to rise, the humble thali has become a symbol of the everyday struggles faced by millions of Indians.

Healthy indulgence

What better way to spread joy than by gifting healthy yet delicious chocolates? Akhil emphasises the importance of providing gifting options, stating, “We’ve introduced miniature versions of our chocolates, which are more visually appealing and convenient for gifting. They encapsulate the same delightful flavours in a compact size.”

Highlighting the nutritional benefits of nuts, Akhil shares insights into incorporating them into chocolates, stating, “We offer coated nuts and other confections crafted using our cocoa powder. We’re constantly innovating to introduce new creations.”

“We’ve curated a range of chocolates to cater to diverse preferences. From intense bitter dark chocolates to creamy white chocolates and classic milk chocolates, we aim to address every palate. Our product line spans from 99 per cent dark chocolate to 50 per cent dark chocolate,” he elaborates.

For those seeking to share the love of chocolate and wellness, Bon Fiction chocolates stand out as an exceptional choice, offering both indulgence and health benefits.

An indulgent Iftar itinerary

CHENNAI :

Samco

With the theme, ‘fasting by day, feasting by night,’ Samco outlets across the city bring the best of Iftar delights. Ibrahim Siraj, one of the owners of the hotel says, “This year’s Iftar box contains water, juice, dates, cut fruits, mandi, shawarma, parotta, chicken gravy, mutton samosa, haleem, BBQ chicken, gulab jamun. Nombu kanji is also included.” These delectable Iftar boxes are available from 4 pm at Samco branches in Alwarpet, Teynampet, Velachery, Anna Nagar, and Mogappair.

Dining, takeout and delivery options are available.

Price: Rs 599 (For more information, visit @hotelsamco on Instagram)

Atti Square

This Ramzan season, the city’s favourite shawarma spot – Atti Square– is bringing out a mouth-watering Iftar box. Starting with its signature shawarma, the delectable menu includes Hyderabadi chicken haleem, dates, grilled chicken, kozhi rice, crispy chicken samosas and roll, with a choice of kubooz, rumali, mayonnaise, Mexican dip, juice and a bottle of water. “This is the second year we are providing the Iftar boxes and people are loving it. This Iftar season has already covered 70-80% of last year’s total sales in the first 14-15 days itself. This is way more than we expected.” says MD Fareedudeen, marketing and branding head. “Also, we have taken special care in cleanliness and safe packaging, so Chennai can have a peaceful Iftar,” he adds.

Packed in an eye-catching yellow box, customers can directly buy this Iftar special from all 13 outlets of Atti Square for Rs 289 or can simply order through Swiggy/ Zomato.

Starting price: Rs 289

In Wonka’s wonderland

As you enter the Lindt Home of Chocolate in Zurich, Switzerland, be prepared to be awestruck by the sight of the world’s largest chocolate fountain. Standing tall at 30 ft, it showcases a cascading flow of chocolate, pouring into a colossal Lindor truffle. The magnitude and mesmerising speed of 2.2 pounds per second create an enchanting spectacle. Embark on a delightful journey, immersing yourself in the art of chocolate-making. Don the apron and hat of a chocolatier, uncovering the secrets behind chocolates, and as you mold the truffles, let your creativity run wild.

Before embarking on the actual class, go for a guided museum tour that unveils the fascinating history of this delectable treat. Step into a segment resembling a rainforest, dedicated to cocoa, the key ingredient that forms the heart of chocolate. Explore the origins of chocolate, tracing back to the Mayans in Central America, who enjoyed a cocoa-based drink called ‘xocolatl’. As you journey through the museum, you’ll uncover intriguing facts. For instance, in the 15th century, chocolate made its way to Spain, where it was deemed fit for the Gods after being sweetened with honey or sugar. The drink gained popularity throughout Europe, particularly when French King Louis XIII married Spanish Princess Anne of Austria, divulging the secret recipe.

The next room, named ‘Swiss Pioneers’, reveals the discovery of milk chocolate in 1875 when Henri Nestle collaborated with his neighbour. Check out the exhibits showcasing the technologies used to create the smooth and melt-in-your-mouth chocolate we enjoy today. Discover the evolution of chocolate advertising, and marvel at the packaging of various brands over the years. Along the way, indulge in tastings, adding a delicious touch to your immersive experience.

This unique experiential adventure is a blissful fusion of education and enjoyment, where you and your loved ones create cherished memories. Delight in the joy of being Willy Wonka for a day and savour the sweet rewards of your chocolate-making expertise. As the magical door opens, you step into a chocolate wonderland, adorned with workstations filled with temptation. With anticipation building, you are presented with aprons and chef hats, ready to unleash your creativity. Guided by the Master Chocolatier, you delve into the art of crafting your very own chocolate bunny and lollipops.

Step by step, he demonstrates the intricacies of the process, from molding the chocolate to adding the decorations. It appears effortless when the Master showcases his expertise, but as you begin to create, you realise the precision and skill required, adding an element of challenge and excitement. Throughout the experience, you and your fellow students bond over shared laughter and a mutual determination to craft the perfect chocolate creations. As the day progresses, you find yourself immersed in the world of chocolate-making, discovering new techniques and refining your skills.

Haleem Dil se…

HYDERABAD : Ramzan has now become synonymous with haleem as people enjoy and relish this food—rich in nourishment and exquisite in taste—providing a distinct experience for those fasting. Pista House has been quite popular for its haleem, a go-to place for t food lovers during this month. However, preparing this dish is a 12-hour-long tedious process, and mastering the dish that is served and consumed with love is not easy. We get in touch with Mohd Abdul Mohsi of Pista House, Attapur, who takes us through the haleem—making process.

Speaking about the process that takes most of the time of their employees, Mohsi says, “Firstly, haleem takes a lot of effort, we do not have any kind of technology that can help us find shortcuts for that without compromising on the taste and nourishment. It is a traditional format which has been carried forward by my father for 25 years now. The same process, the same style and protocols have been followed all these years.”

He told CE that they start working from 2am, beginning with the cutting of meat. “When we put mutton into the vessels, it takes around six to seven hours to boil and for it to become tender. Then we add green chilli, ghee and all the spices that are required. We put it for dum (meat put under a mix of pulses) for an hour and mix it slowly so that it tastes good and the mutton should have a good flavour. Then we mash the haleem for about an hour. The total process takes around 10-12 hours, the best thing is that we do not use any kind of machines and it is a man-made process. It takes a lot of strength to make this and our team gets exhausted by the end of the day. We have people working in three shifts here and we have dedicated work given to them. There is no count of vessels of haleem that we make daily. There are more than 100 vessels here and each weighs around 100 to 1000 kg,” he said.

Households Waste 1 Billion Meals Daily, Exacerbating Global Hunger and Climate Change

As data collection has improved the true scale of the problem has become much clearer, said Clementine O’Connor from UNEP.

“The more food waste you look for, the more that you find,” she told AFP.

Billion meals binned

The report said that the “billion meals” figure was a “very conservative estimate” and “the real amount could be much higher”.

“For me, it’s just staggering,” Richard Swannell from WRAP told AFP.

“You could actually feed all the people that are currently hungry in the world — about 800 million people — over a meal a day just from the food that is wasted every single year.”

He said bringing together producers and retailers had helped reduce waste and get food to those who need it, and more such action was needed.

Food services like restaurants, canteens and hotels were responsible for 28 percent of all wasted food in 2022, while retail like butchers and greengrocers dumped 12 percent.

But the biggest culprits were households, which accounted for 60 percent — some 631 million tonnes.

Swannell said much of this occurred because people were simply buying more food than they needed, but also misjudging portion sizes and not eating leftovers.

Another issue was expiration dates, he said, with perfectly good produce being trashed because people incorrectly assumed their food had gone off.

A lot of food, particularly in the developing world, was not so frivolously wasted, but instead lost in transportation or spoiling because of a lack of refrigeration, the report said.

Contrary to popular belief, food waste is not just a “rich country” problem and can be observed across the world, the report said.

Hotter countries, too, generated more waste, possibly due to higher consumption of fresh foods with substantial inedible parts.

‘Devastating effects’

Businesses also underestimate the cost of wasting food to their bottom line because it was cheap to dump unused produce in landfill.

“It’s quicker and easier to throw it away at the moment because the waste fee is either zero or very low,” O’Connor said.

Food waste had “devastating effects” on people and the planet, the report said.

Converting natural ecosystems for agriculture is a leading cause of habitat loss yet food waste takes up the equivalent of nearly 30 percent of the world’s farming land, the report said.

“If we can reduce food waste across the entire of the supply chain, we can… minimise the need to have land set aside that’s growing stuff that’s never used,” Swannell said.

It is also a key driver of climate change, generating up to 10 percent of annual greenhouse gas emissions.

“If food waste was a country, it would be the third biggest emitter of greenhouse gas emissions on the planet behind the US and China,” Swannell said.

But people rarely think about it, he said, despite the opportunity to “reduce our carbon footprint, reduce our greenhouse gas emissions, and save money, simply by making better use of the food that we’re already buying”.

The Art of Perfect Touchings with Drinks

Good bars usually have their signature bar snacks that are as much of a draw as the ambience of the place. These are generally regional specialities like the beef and fish preparation in Kerala. But the Toddy Shops in the big cities of Kerala such as Ernakulam have probably carried it too far. Some are now more popular for their food rather than the liquor and have become tourist traps. At honest bars, alcohol is the hero and food is only a supporting cast. They do not allow food to take the centre stage and become a distraction cutting down the consumption of its main revenue earner, namely booze.

The best such example I know of is Shaw’s Bar (more popularly called Chota Bristol) in Kolkata’s Dharmatala, in the lane next to the old Metro cinema. They don’t have a kitchen of their own but let approved street vendors come in with items kept on small paper bowls on a tray. Customers take their pick against cash. The items range from sprouted bean salad, green guava chaat, fried chilli chicken, fish fingers, boiled eggs and, of course, fried liver.

The old colonial clubs too have their traditional bar eats. Though the history of the Bhubaneshwar Club does not date back to the days of the Raj, on a fleeting visit there last week, I discovered the unique Papdi Kabab. These are patties made of chenna or paneer but fried with a coating of crushed Papad. Looking at it another way, they combine the goodness of paneer tikka with the tanginess of papad. However, the heart stealer for me was the bori-chura. Roasted and crumbled sun-dried Dal Vadi (lentil dumplings) mixed with onion, green chillies, garlic and tempered with raw mustard oil. It was reminiscent of the Sukuti Sadheko (smoked and dried meat salad) which one has in Nepal prepared in much the same way. Another equivalent of this could be the Goan or Konkani dried prawn Kismur.

As the younger generation gets more discerning about taste and coarse liquor makes way for Single Malts, Aromatic Gins and fine wines – “touchings” could soon be a part of food nostalgia. On the other hand, they have the potential to be turned into exotoc and nouvelle bar eats like Tapas in the hands of innovative new-age master chefs.

ALSO READ | To Manipuri Meitei food, with love

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O Pedro: Where the spirit of Julie is alive and well

From the Bengali machher jhaal to the Mangalorean gassi, the pomfret is the star of fish curries

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(Sandip Ghose is an author and current affairs commentator. He tweets @SandipGhose.)

Culinary aesthetics shape modern dining experience

The numbers count. “Many follow the rule of threes while plating a dish: like three garnishes, or three textures, or three colours. Placing the food to the left, or right plays up the drama,” explains Sangwan. “I go for odd numbers on the plate as well, like one, or three croques, in different sizes,” says Sakhrani, adding. “I prefer to bring in multiple components including different textures, layers, colours, play of sizes to intrigue in combination with the empty space on the plate. Then every inch breathes.”

Perspectives Count

Lakhan Jethani, Head Chef and Co-founder, Mizu Izakaya, likes to bring in microgreens and inclusion of leaves to prop the aesthetics of a dish. “In this Instagrammable age, we eat with our eyes first. If the dish appears beautiful, you are already excited about eating. It is a heightened experience. The type of cuisine you are serving as well as the format (small, or big plates, or an a la carte, or a degustation menu) determines the size of the plate. Also, the kind of vibe you want both the food and the restaurant to exude. If you are an upscale casual dining restaurant, then pop colours work,” he says.

Heighten the Impact

Chef Sarfaraz Ahmed, Head Chef, Trésind Mumbai, believes the fine detailing adds up to the overall effect. “When you choose whites, it could be in marble, porcelain, or bone china finish. The shape of the dish is important, like a tenderloin steak, or sushi, would be plated on a rectangular plate. Anything that has an angle to it, goes on a rectangular plate.” The colours play a key role. “Yellow food on a blue plate is an appetite enhancer; as is red on a charcoal grey surface. White is classy, luxurious, and works beautifully with greens, yellows, reds that stand out against the backdrop,” he says, adding, “The lighting too is decisive. We use different dishes during lunch service as opposed to dinner as the natural light plays up the colours.”

Heights and layers too add to the depth and dimension. Jethani says, “Nothing is served flat. Usually, we look at creating a height of three fingers above the plate to build up the dish. The ratio of the portion vis-a-vis the empty space matters.” Height matters as eating food is an interactive experience with diners seated across the table from each other. “A laddered up mushroom assembly or stack of vegetables would be more appealing than a flat carpet. For me, the sauces play a decisive role in accentuating the empty space on the plate,” shares Sakhrani.

The healing magic of clove

KOCHI: Cloves are one of the spices that are grown extensively in India. It’s a spice obtained from the dried unopened flower bud of the evergreen, medium-sized clove tree.

When comes to cultivation, cloves require a high ambient atmospheric temperature between 25 to 35 degree Celsius along with ample sunlight, good rainfall and high humidity.

Scientifically known as Syzygium aromaticum, cloves are one of the most important spices when it comes to Indian cuisines, as it has a deep flavour profile and aromatic properties. It is used in both savoury and sweet dishes and is commonly found in curries, pickles and certain desserts as well. It is also used to increase the shelf life of certain eatables such as pickles.

Kanniyakumari clove, which boasts a characteristic odour and flavour, has its own Geographical Indication (GI) registration. They are grown in the Maramalai, Karumparai and Vellimalai areas of the Western Ghats.

How to haleem?

HYDERABAD: If you feel like you are stuck in Hyderabad for the next few days, whatever the reason — your visa got rejected, your onsite has been delayed forever, or life in general isn’t moving much — all this has happened because the universe wants to keep you here so that you get a taste of haleem.

When someone asks me where do you get the best haleem, I always ask them back, “What is the meaning of life?” so that we both deal with equally complex subjects.

If you are new in town, the best haleem is the one next to you, and if you have been here for a while, please take me to your favourite place, and I’ll let you know if it is close to the best I’ve had.

But honestly, after living in Hyderabad for 15 years, when it comes to haleem, most of the haleem places are GOAT (pun intended) because it’s really hard to go wrong with a dish that takes eight hours to cook, and the guy who is cooking is on a fast, and my scientific knowledge that I gathered from YouTube says while fasting, the brain is more efficient, and hence maybe this is why haleem never disappoints.

While haleem stays heavenly similar every year, the conversations around haleem are the peculiar ones.

Like my landlord, he will always complain about how a plate of haleem cost him more than last year right after brutally increasing my rent by 10%.

Next is a guy who claims that haleem was better a few years ago. Trust me, if you are working on a time machine, this guy will sell his property and invest in it.

But the best person to be around this season is the guy who wants to do haleem hopping. He knows the route, the order in which haleem should be eaten first, the timings, and then he’ll have a plan for a dessert as well. If this guy is your friend, make him your best friend, and if he is your best friend, see if you can make him your family.

There is no visual representation of how one feels during the haleem season, but if you ever see your favourite sitcom characters react to the first snowfall, that’s us Hyderabadis during haleem season, without the snow but with an equal amount of joy.

The Why Junction

Sandesh Johnny

@johnnykasandesh

(This comedian is here to tell funny stories about Hyderabad)

(The writer’s views are his own)

This chef offers Japanese food with a Californian twist in Delhi

Inspired by the traditional izakaya restaurants in Japan, customers can embark on a journey to the buzzing alleyways of Tokyo.

Chef Myers travels across Japan and a deep connection to its culinary heritage shines through in every dish. The menu showcases pristine ingredients, traditional techniques, and signature Californian influence, resulting in a truly unique and unforgettable dining experience.

Sourcing ingredients include seafood, certain meats, various soy sauces used in dishes, and even items like wasabi and local ingredients such as vegetables sourced from nearby farms or Japanese micro herbs.

He says, “Sustainability and ethical sourcing are cornerstones of my philosophy. ADRIFT menus, like Kaya’s modern Japanese izakaya, reflect this. We use seasonal, local ingredients sourced from responsible farmers, supporting local communities while minimizing our carbon footprint.”

David draws inspiration from the mesmerizing laneways of Tokyo and the ancient culinary craft showcased in kitchens throughout Japan by preparing exquisite dishes. Signature dishes include Sushi made with Chutoro, uni, Oscietra Caviar, and Gold Leaf Nigiri, and traditional Japanese ‘tsumami’ selection of mushroom gyoza, vegetable tempura and chicken tsukune with onsen egg to name a few.

Tempura is a light and airy batter that encases seasonal vegetables and succulent shrimp, fried to a golden crunch. Each bite bursts with contrasting textures, the delicate shell yielding perfectly cooked treasures within. A savory dashi-infused dipping sauce adds depth, making this a modern take on a timeless classic.

Check out innovative creations India’s culinary scene embraces the seasonal fruit

Although we’re a few months out of the Christmas season, a few of its festive treats still linger around. And one of them is the Goan sweet ‘guava cheese’. In Goa, this halwa-like, translucent, red-hued sweet is made from the pulp of slightly overripe guavas, sugar, red food colouring and some shortening agent. This sweet, which is part of the state’s colonial Portuguese legacy, is also found in South America, where it is known multifariously as bocadillo in Colombia, and perad or goiabada in Brazil. Now, hitching a ride onto to this seasonal fruit trend bandwagon are several restaurants, bars and chefs across India who are pulling out all the stops to highlight the fragrant guava in myriad ways.

From Pop-ups to Sit-downs

At her recent seven-course pop-up dinner called Butter Fingers held at Magazine St. Kitchen, Mumbai, Chef Taiyaba Ali showcased the guava in a most interesting manner. She did this with a Pink Guava Sorbet as a mid-course palate cleanser, the idea of which was born out of nostalgia. “I channelled the memory of my grandmother making amrood kachalu for the children in the evenings. Kachalu was roughly a fruit chaat where the guavas were thinly chopped and macerated in black pepper, black salt and sugar,” reminisces Ali.

Featuring on the new menu of Napoli by Shatranj—one of Mumbai’s most iconic Italian restaurants—is not one, but two items that pay obeisance to guava. The Verdi’s Verde cocktail is homage to the renowned Italian composer Giuseppe Verdi, while combining the Peruvian alcohol pisco with guava, chili and rose to create a symphony of flavours that mirror Verdi’s passion and creativity. On the food menu, the cheesecake a la guava al forno—created by Chef Mahfuz Shaikh—has both a guava sauce topping as well as guava sorbet soil that is sprinkled around it. “The idea was to work with local produce like the lovely pink guava and incorporate it into the most popular dessert which almost every restaurant makes—the cheesecake,” says Shaikh.

Fennel’s aromatic marvel elevates global cuisines and thrives in Northern India

But fennel’s appeal extends far beyond its cultivation habits. This herb has entrenched itself in culinary traditions worldwide, its leaves prized for their aromatic essence, often used in garnishing and featuring prominently in salads. From Italian sausages to pizza toppings, fennel’s versatility knows no bounds. Its dried fruits, cherished for their fragrant aroma and pleasant taste, enhance soups, meat dishes, sauces, pastries, confectioneries, and even liquors.

Beyond its culinary contributions, fennel’s fruits boast aromatic, stimulant, and carminative properties, making it a multi-faceted gift from nature that transcends the kitchen.

Serving sumptuous suvai

CHENNAI: For the past two years, there has been a buzz during the Margazhi season. One made by the flavourful thanga thambalam that has had many a foodie throng the sabha canteen where Arusuvai Arasu caterers have set shop. With this offering, the famed catering service from Chennai has been giving potential clients a taste of what’s hot on their menu.

The fame and appreciation have been building over the past 75 years. Known for its filter coffee and traditional South Indian dishes, Arusuvai Arasu Pvt Ltd has carved a niche for itself, garnering clients from across India. Recently, they were invited by businessman Mukesh Ambani to serve idlis, dosais, and vadais at the pre-wedding function of Anant Ambani and Radhika Merchant. At the grand affair held in Jamnagar, several celebrities from across industries savoured their sumptuous servings.

Riding high on the feat, S Kamesh, director of the venture, walks us through 75 years of dealing with luxury and corporate events, big-scale weddings, and sabha canteens by prioritising guests’ preferences and how they have become experts in crisis management.

“Crisis management is the biggest challenge in the catering industry. You have to satisfy your customer and their guests. Each guest is different. We have to understand what they want and provide that in the best way possible,” says Kamesh, adding that he learnt the skills from his grandfather N Natarajan and father N Sridhar.

Creating a legacy

The catering services gained its name when former president VV Giri at his daughter’s wedding bestowed the founder N Natarajan with the title. Describing the origins of the business Kamesh says, “Arusuvai Arasu was started by my grandfather, N Natarajan, who is from a small town near Kumbakonam. He moved to Chennai from Kumbakonam and worked at the Geeta Cafe on Mount Road. He met former President VV Giri while working there when he was planning his daughter’s wedding. His motivation and well wishes prompted the formation of Arusuvai Arasu. When my grandfather started the business, it was a total of just six-eight employees. They were family members, brothers, and cousins coming together to do the business. The industry was unorganised.”

Now, they have 250-300 employees. Gradually, Natarajan’s elder son, N Kumar, joined the business and introduced North Indian cuisine to the general catering business and South Indian marriage ceremonies in Tamil Nadu. When Natarajan’s second son joined the business, they opted for bigger events including destination weddings and in 2016 Kamesh took over the family legacy. Over the years, Kamesh says, Arusuvai evolved as a brand. “We have done events in Dubai, France, a sit-down leaf service in Bali for a destination wedding, and so on. We have been catering for the Ambani family for almost six-seven years. We are their official catering brand from south India. The association began when we catered for Mukesh Ambani sir’s sister Nina Kothari’s daughter’s wedding,” he shares.

Fusion food at its finest

CHENNAI: Anglo-Indian cuisine is a heritage cuisine that is gradually disappearing from the food scene in recent days. This cuisine is a fusion food that developed primarily when the British ruled over India. A lot has been said about all that was lost as a result, but what was gained is the intermingling of food and culture leading to a richer heritage. This interesting melange gradually gave life to this new form of cuisine. The technique, the spices, the dishes…were all remade to suit the European palate.

Though the prefix Anglo would indicate Anglo-Saxon descent, a broader definition would include other European lineages with the arrival of successive explorers like the Dutch, Portuguese, and French who colonised different pockets of India.

Fusion cuisines are dime a dozen now as creative chefs keep pushing boundaries, but Anglo-Indian cuisine has evolved over a few centuries more organically. Much like the Parsis, the Anglo-Indian community is dwindling and most of them live in Kolkata, Mumbai, and Chennai. A small group also lives in old railway towns and hill stations like Darjeeling and Kalimpong. Many of them have migrated to countries like Australia, Canada, and New Zealand. Over the years, Anglo-Indian cuisine has evolved by adapting to various regions of India. For example, in the south, Anglo Indian curries are made with coconut; in the north, with tomato paste, meat, and potatoes and in the east, with mustard and freshwater fish.

Apart from the common link of Christianity, over time the Anglo-Indians adopted English as their language and the British style of dressing. However, their food habits were developed at the intersection of European dietary traditions with a strong dose of Indian spices. The addition of spices was due to the influence of Indian cooks (khansamas and bawarchis) they employed.

The names of the dishes are very unique and have references to where it was predominantly served — like Dak Bungalows, Railway canteens, and Gentleman Clubs — which were predominantly catering to the elite Europeans. If you think the naming ends there, think again. They have Hell’s chutney/Mother-in-law tongue (due to the deep red colour — a cheeky reference to a nagging mother-in-law), Chicken ding ding, Peeking boy (a play on ridge gourd), Bobo curry, Meatball/Bad word curry… the list of cheekily-named dishes is endless.

The most famous Railway mutton curry has a tasty blend of both Indian and British spices. It was traditionally cooked in the Railway canteens and served in the recreation rooms and first-class dining cars. Similarly, during the British era, Dak Bungalows (Rest houses) were built for government officials and travellers. During their stay, the cooks would make a full-bodied, local-style chicken curry that was named Dak Bungalow chicken curry.

A very interesting dish is the Mulgatwany soup. The origins date back to the British Era. The Tamil comfort food, rasam rice was gradually improvised with meat, apples, and coconut milk and became the ultimate rainy day comfort food — Muligatwany soup. Having adopted Indian food habits they also have a wide variety of rice dishes called pilaf and a milder version of the vindaloo and balchao. Cutlets, croquettes, chutneys, and pickles with an amalgamation of Indian and British spices became common too.

A Culinary Journey Through Delhi’s North East Delights

Though it may not be apparent on the surface, because after a while all Dilli-walas people talk and behave similarly, Delhi is probably the most cosmopolitan city in India. In its quest to become a “World City” from a “Walled City”, to borrow the phrase coined by a newspaper, Delhi has created an eclectic culinary culture.

Signs of this were already visible through the last decade, but post the pandemic, it has manifested with the explosion in the home delivery food business. Though “ordering in” has taken off in all cities, in Delhi it has gone to an entirely different level in terms of sheer variety and sophisticated food packaging.

Thus much of this revolution, if one can call it so, has happened in the cloud (cloud kitchens) as it were. But there is a little haven tucked away in Humayunpur, Safdarjung Enclave that some call the little North East India of Delhi. Several gems of the seven sisters of the North East are tucked in this small pocket of South Delhi.

For someone like me, who has not travelled extensively in the North East, a trip to Humayunpur is akin to going on a virtual culinary expedition of the region. Over time, the boundaries have been pushed further into Burma (Myanmar) and further East up to Vietnam and Korea, which have some interesting similarities with North East food.

The restaurants in Humayunpur are unpretentious, value-for-money places. Each has a character of its own — with simple, neat, contemporary decor — not slummy like the old Tibetan eateries in Majnu Ka Tilla that once used to be the haunt of North Campus students. But thankfully, they are not sophisticated enough to catch the attention of the fashionable foodies ( a term I am viscerally allergic to) of the capital.

Naga Food was the first to take Delhi by storm. The fiery Naga Chillies were an instant draw along with a plethora of pork dishes. Then slowly, cuisine from other North Eastern States — like Tripura, Meghalaya, Arunachal — caught on. But initially they were part of a medley like at the North East Flavours (now closed down), next to the Nagaland Kitchen in Green Park (in the erstwhile Uphaar Cinema Complex).

The North East has the highest per capita pork consumption in the country (with Nagaland being at the top of the charts). There is the Ministry of Pork in Humayunpur that serves pork dishes of the various states including some Korean inspired barbeques.

Assamese food was present in a limited way at the Assam Bhavan and briefly in Utpala Mukherjee’s Mosaic at the YWCA on Parliament Street. But now many more have opened. Other than the new Gam’s Delicacy in Assam Bhavan (which replaced Utpala’s Baankaahi), my personal favourite is Oh Assam in Humayunpur. What I love at both Gam’s and Oh Assam is their Duck — dry fried, more than the curry.

What has contributed to the growth of the Humayunpur North East cuisine ecosystem is the availability of ethnic ingredients. This has become possible due to better air connectivity. Besides, the large number of restaurants and growing diaspora make procurement of these food stuff commercially viable. The imports are not restricted to spices, herbs and greens. Semi-perishable items like dried and fermented fish, bamboo shoots and smoked meats are also flown in. With refrigerated packaging, even exotic fresh products like snails and local varieties of fish that are native to the North East are available. .

The new kid on the block is Manipuri Meitei food. This was my latest adventure. Meitei food is quite distinct from both neighbouring Meghalaya and Nagaland. It is essentially because of a greater reliance on vegetables grown in kitchen gardens and fish from home ponds. It is generally milder in nature with the hot spices reserved for accompanying chutneys and condiments. Boiled vegetables, stews and salads — with rice, which is the staple — form the crux of diet.

The vegetables are largely organic as chemicals fertilisers are hardly used and this helps retail their pristine taste. Though I cannot vouch that all the ingredients that one finds in Delhi are sourced from Manipur — the use of some special herbs and leafy vegetables make the difference though some of it is masked by the smell of Ngari — the fermented fish, which forms the base of most dishes.

My order for the evening from Manipur Sinju Cafe was Meitei Smoked Pork Curry, Sinju Salad, Eromba Chutney and Snails with Bamboo Shoot.

Eromba is more like a Bharta or mashed vegetables but with Chilli and Ngari, while Singju gets its distinct flavour from Perilla seeds, known as Bhanjeera, similar to sesame seeds, in the Northern Hills. The tastes are subtle and may not immediately invoke a Wow effect among the uninitiated. But with time — as we move towards — healthy, non-spicy, organic leafy vegetable based eating, it can emerge as a healthy variant of other Asian dishes like Pho, Ramen or other oriental broths and salad.

The bottomline is North East food has arrived and is here to stay.

ALSO READ | Subtle and sophisticated, Kashmiri food has all it takes to become a hit

Giving the underrated pulao its due

Whose Butter Chicken is it anyway?

O Pedro: Where the spirit of Julie is alive and well

From the Bengali machher jhaal to the Mangalorean gassi, the pomfret is the star of fish curries

Bacon and ham have caught pork lovers’ fancy in India — but sausages are not far behind

Call it poha, aval or chira, this comfort food’s popularity knows no bounds

A taste of Awadh in Jaipur and Kolkata

Famous in China, duck meat is one of India’s underrated regional dishes

Bhim cooked it, Lord Ram relished it: India’s gift to the world is the humble dal

(Sandip Ghose is an author and current affairs commentator. He tweets @SandipGhose.)

South Indian ‘filter kaapi’ ranks second in list of 38 best coffees across the world

In the words of Lorelai Gilmore, “Coffee please, and a shot of cynicism,” which is pretty much how most adults function these days. People’s favourite brewed aromatic beverage known for its delicious bitter taste has been celebrated globally. Whether it’s a morning to go or evening booster, coffee has been engraved in many youngsters’ routines. From espresso to latte, mocha to cappuccino, the quest to find the best coffee on the planet has ignited endless debates among connoisseurs.

TasteAtlas, a popular food and travel guide platform, has recently released a new rating list of the ‘Top 38 Coffees In The World’. The list features the diverse and flavourful universe of coffee beans and their preparation techniques.

Topping the list is ‘Cuban Espresso’, a renowned creation which is an espresso shot infused with dark roast coffee and sugar during the brewing process. The drink is brewed in either a stovetop espresso maker or an electric espresso machine. The preparation style also results in a light-brown foam on top.

Coming in second is none other than South India’s beloved ‘Filter Coffee’, a beautiful concoction brewed with the simplicity and efficiency of an Indian coffee filter machine. This machine is made of stainless steel and consists of two chambers-the upper one with a perforated bottom used to hold ground coffee and the bottom chamber in which the brewed coffee is slowly dripped.

Many set up the filter overnight so that they have a freshly brewed coffee ready in the morning. The brew is then mixed with warm milk and sugar and served in a traditional steel or brass glass like tumbler alongside a saucer known as ‘dabara’. Before serving/drinking, it is customary to pour the beverage from one vessel to another so that it becomes frothy.

Meanwhile, we have Italy’s Cappuccino ranked third and Vietnamese Iced Coffee at number 10. Check out for the rest below!

The top 10 coffees in the world as per TasteAtlas:

1. Cuban Espresso (Cuba)

2. South Indian Coffee (India)

3. Espresso freddo (Greece)

4. Freddo cappuccino (Greece)

5. Cappuccino (Italy)

6. Turkish Coffee (Turkiye)

7. Ristretto (Italy)

8. Frappe (Greece)

9. Eiskaffee (Germany)

10. Vietnamese Iced Coffee (Vietnam)

The Buddha’s bowl

The world is going crazy trying to clamber out of the chub rut, gobbling up slimming exercises on Insta feeds (24-inch waist in two weeks). Intermittent fasting is gaining cult status, elbowing aside, rather unkindly, the keto catwalkers. Beneath the rush and the roar of the tony diets, the humble Monk Fast, or Buddha Diet has been gaining momentum, quietly and steadily.

The cultural and spiritual aspects of the monk diet are drawing people into its popular ambit. Madhavi Avate, functional nutritionist, fertility expert and lactation counsellor, says, “By adopting this diet, you may feel a deeper connection with the traditions and philosophies practised by Buddhist monks. It is inspired by their eating habits and promotes plant-based, whole foods. It emphasises mindfulness during mealtime and a restricted eating schedule, typically ending meals before noon.

The diet is primarily pegged on simplicity, minimalism and focus on natural, unprocessed foods. In the process it brings in better mental clarity and focus; extends longevity, reduces cancer cell growth and breaks unhealthy eating patterns.” Some studies have also suggested that a monk diet can help reduce oxidative stress which relatively improves skin quality. Few studies, however, convey that the diet can affect the menstrual cycle because of hormonal imbalance, possibly reducing levels of reproductive hormones in women.

People who follow the diet abstain from food for 36 hours weekly. During this time, only water and calorie-free sips are permitted, to stay hydrated. “The phrase ‘monk diet’ stems from dietary regimens monks from different religious traditions adhere to,” says Fiona Sampat, clinical dietitian, Kokilaben Dhirubhai Ambani Hospital, Mumbai, adding, “Interpreting this diet, a 36-hour water fast is customarily observed once a week that emphasises self-control, discipline and a break from regular eating schedules. This diet is currently trending owing to the rising popularity of intermittent fasting, spiritual wellness and the possible health advantages of periodic fasting.”

The monk fast is a type of intermittent fasting, with a fasting window of 36 hours. It advocates drinking plain water during fasting, which is the best drink for hydration, weight loss and enhancing gut health. Nutritionist and lifestyle educator Karishma Chawla says, “You can consume fluids including black coffee, black tea, or herbal tea for 36 hours once per week. Usually, ketogenic diets take a couple of days for the body to get in ketosis that facilitates fat loss.

The Monk Diet works in a similar way. When one is fasting, the blood flow is directed to different parts of the body to facilitate healing rather than going into digestion. Remember your digestion is a process that spends the maximum energy in the body. Also, it helps to calm down allergies and food sensitivities since you are away from such irritants. The red flag lies in the concept of bio-individuality, where one diet doesn’t fit all, so if this kind of fasting doesn’t align with your body, you must not follow it. For example, if you have a super compromised gut health, it may not work for you.”

In our often-obsessive pursuit of inch loss and weight drop, we take to bottle gourd and papaya diets with a vengeance. The love for diuretics is popular. Is this diet worth it? Rohini Patil, nutritionist and founder, Nutracy Lifestyle, says, “The amount of weight an individual can lose in four weeks depends on several factors, including their starting weight, metabolism, activity level and overall health. The initial weight loss is attributed to water weight and glycogen depletion.”

Avate suggests breaking the monk fast with gentle foods like vegetable soups, soupy khichdi, bone broth, starchy vegetable stew, steamed rice with coconut-based curry, etc. “Breaking your fast with foods that are especially high in fat, sugar, or even fibre can be difficult for your body to digest, leading to bloating and discomfort,” she cautions.

Approaching the diet wmethodically is a prudent pick. “Ideally, stick to low glycemic index foods, easily digestible protein, good fats and adequate fibre,” advises Chawla, adding, “If you start the fast post dinner, look at gluten-free grain like quinoa or jowar with two servings of fibre and protein that aligns with your body. Break the fast with a rejuvenating vegetable juice, low GI fruit, and protein such as eggs or protein powders to help prevent catabolism and aid muscle growth. Add lime water and a probiotic in the form of a supplement or fermented foods for gut health. Bring in good fats and low glycaemic carbohydrates.” If the body is not capable of handling too much detoxification, it can lead to inflammation, hence timing is crucial.

Often there is a threat of dehydration, as people tend to miss fluids when on fast. “I would not want one to live on a Monk Diet for good, but just use it like a strategy when needed,” she adds.

NEED TO KNOW

Attempting intermittent fasting prior to Monk Diet may prepare your body better

No strict rules on timing, but many choose to break the fast in the morning

Keep first meal composition light and nutritious

Combine with regular exercise

Pregnant women, lactating mothers, those with hormonal issues, and suffering from diabetes, heart conditions, renal, or eating disorders must avoid the Monk Diet

It may lead to nutrient deficiency; fatigue or low energy; hair loss and hormonal imbalance .

Bean there, brewed that

Did you know that Coorg is regarded as the coffee cup of India?” naturalist Bindu Shree asks the motley group of nine who have accompanied her on a breezy day at The Tamara Coorg for a plantation walk. A few nod their heads. “India is the fifth largest producer of coffee in the world, with almost 70 per cent coming from Karnataka’s two regions—40 per cent from Coorg and 30 per cent from Chikmagalur,” she informs the group.

The daily plantation tours at the luxury resort are designed to make the participants learn more about the flora and fauna of the region and also to introduce them to the vast coffee plantations that are spread across 184 acres of the property located about 3,500 feet above sea level. As Bindu leads the group up an easy hillside climb, she stops to point at different trees and flowers, sharing trivia and asking questions with the rider: “whoever answers correctly will get an extra cup of coffee”.

Some of the wilder guesses elicit laughs while a few manage to show off their general knowledge.

Past the twisted heliconia bushes, colourful hibiscus plants and elephant ear fig trees and on a slightly higher elevation, she asks the participants to cast their eyes downwards and spot coffee bushes. The naturalist proceeds to inform how India is the only country where coffee is grown under shade. “The ecosystem and the surroundings affect the taste and quality. Coffee grown under shade is aromatic and flavourful,” she smiles.

By now, the group is surrounded by coffee bushes with tiny red berries peeking through the leaves. Bindu plucks a few, holding them up for closer inspection, as participants inhale the aroma and feel the soft, smooth fruit. While the coffee shrubs look pretty much the same, some have larger leaves than the others.

The naturalist explains that the plants with the bigger leaves are Robusta coffee plants which yield smaller beans with higher caffeine content, while the smaller plants with bigger berries are Arabica shrubs with lesser caffeine content. “The coffee berries are hand-plucked and sun-dried for further processing,” she adds.

Melon Mania

Nutritional benefit

  • Watermelon has 92% water content and it keeps one refreshed and revitalised

  • Loaded with Vitamin A and C, it strengthens immunity, improves vision and nourishes from within

  • The lycopene content promotes healthy cholesterol levels and blood pressure

  • Despite being sweet, watermelon remains a low-calorie, low-fat, guilt-free indulgence for those mindful of their weight and wellness

  • It also aids in digestive health and prevents constipation

  • Due to its hydrating properties, the fruit is the skin’s best friend as well

  • Though ongoing research is still exploring watermelon’s potential, studies have shown that it may prevent cancer

Frozen watermelon margarita

Ingredients

Watermelon cut into cubes: 800g

Tequila: 125ml

Triple sec: 75ml

Lime: 2, zested and juiced, plus a wedge for the rim

Honey: 2 tsp

For the garnish

Sea salt flakes: 4 tsp

Caster sugar: 2 tsp

Chilli flakes: ¼ tsp

Method

Put the watermelon pieces in a freezer-proof container and keep them overnight until solid. As it cools, prepare the garnish for the rim of each glass. Combine the sea salt flakes, sugar, chilli flakes and lime zest in a small bowl. Set aside. Once the watermelon pieces are set, put them along with tequila, triple sec, lime juice and honey in a food processor and churn them until smooth. Run a lime wedge around the rims then dip in the garnish mix. Pour the drink into the glasses. Serve immediately.

Watermelon Popsicles

Ingredients

Medium-sized watermelon: One

Lime juice

Method

Cut one medium-sized watermelon and chop them into cubes. In a blender, add the melon pieces and freshly squeezed lime juice for a better taste. Blend until completely smooth. Pour the watermelon mixture into popsicle molds, cover and add popsicle sticks to them. Finally, freeze the popsicles until they’re set, either 4 hours or overnight.

Watermelon pudding

Ingredients

Watermelon: 4 cups (coarsely chopped)

Cornstarch: 2 tbsp

Granulated sugar: ¼ cup

Vanilla bean: ½

Fresh lemon juice: 2 tsp

Garnish

Whipped cream (optional)

Unsalted pistachios (chopped or ground)

Method

Blend the watermelon pieces until smooth. Pour through a strainer into a cup. This will have 3 cups of watermelon juice. Take 2 tbsp watermelon juice into a small bowl and add cornstarch. Stir until it’s smooth. Pour the remaining watermelon juice into a saucepan. Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 min. Add sugar and vanilla seeds, then whisk until sugar is dissolved. Stir the cornstarch mixture again and add to the watermelon juice. Simmer and stir occasionally, for 3 minutes. Add lemon juice. Pour the pudding through a clean strainer into small glass jars. Cover and chill for 3 hours.

Watermelon rind pickle

Courtesy: The Spruce Eats

Ingredients

Watermelon rind: 0.97kg

Pickling salt: 1/4 cup

Water: 4 cups

Granulated sugar: 2 cups

White vinegar: 1 cup

Cinnamon stick, broken up: 1 tbsp

Whole cloves: 1 ½ tsp

Thinly sliced lemon: 1/2

Method

Remove the dark green and pink parts from the watermelon rind. Cut rind into 1-inch cubes and measure out 7 cups. Put the rind in a container with salt and 3 cups of water. Add more water to cover the rinds, if necessary. Soak overnight. Drain and rinse rind. Cover the rind with cold water in a saucepan. Simmer for about 10 minutes. Combine the sugar, vinegar, cinnamon, whole cloves, and remaining 1 cup water. Simmer for 10 minutes in a pot. Add the drained watermelon rind, lemon slices, and simmer the mixture for 30 min. Fill half-pint jars with the hot watermelon rind and syrup mixture, Jars should be kept in boiling water for 5 min. Then let it cool.

Watermelon, cucumber, feta salad

Ingredients

Honey: 2 tbsp, Lime juice: 2 tbsp

Extra virgin olive oil: 1 to 2 tbsp

Salt: a pinch , Salad

Watermelon (peeled, cut into cubes): ½

Cucumber (cubed): 2 cups

Fresh mint leaves (chopped): 15

Fresh basil leaves (chopped): 15

Crumbled feta cheese: ½ cup

Method : In a bowl, whisk honey, lime juice, olive oil and a pinch of salt together. Set aside for a moment. In a large bowl, combine the watermelon, cucumbers, and fresh herbs. Top the watermelon salad with the dressing and gently toss to combine. Add the feta cheese.

From soups & soaps to stimulants and stress-busters

KOCHI: Mint stands out as a versatile herb valued for its aromatic leaves and a multitude of applications. Though many varieties of mint are grown in different parts of India, spearmint, peppermint, and Japanese mint are the most commonly cultivated varieties.

With its creeping rhizome and erect stems reaching heights between 0.4m to 0.8m, the Japanese mint (Mentha arvensis) presents an unmistakable presence in any garden. Its stems, adorned with quadrangulate branching and short, dense hair, contribute to its distinctive appearance, while its oblong-ovate leaves, measuring 2.5cm to 5cm in length, further enhance its allure.

Notably, the Japanese mint displays auxiliary whorls of flowers, except at the apex, with blooming primarily occurring in May to June and again in September to November.

Originating primarily in the Northern Hemisphere, mint thrives in tropical climates. In India, it is predominantly cultivated in north India. Thriving under sunny weather conditions with moderate rainfall, mint requires deep, humus-rich soil capable of retaining moisture.

In the culinary realm, mint adds a delightful flavour to many dishes, including meats, fish, sauces, soups, stews, vinegar, tea, and cordials. Moreover, it serves as a cornerstone in the production of natural menthol.

Medicinally, mint stands out for its efficacy against stomach disorders, rheumatism, headaches (utilised in ointments), coughs (in drops), and inhalations. Both the oil and dried plants of mint contribute to its reputation as an indispensable herb.

Its distinctive appearance and remarkable properties, cements mint’s status as an asset in various fields, making it a staple in gardens, kitchens, and industries worldwide.

Medicinal benefits

Soothes indigestion , skin irritations and relieve symptoms of irritable bowel syndrome.

Provide relief from nasal congestion, coughs, and sinusitis.

Its aroma has calming properties.

It contains compounds that have antimicrobial properties

Uses of mint

Japan’s Culture Kare

Italian Connection

One such culinary chimera that originated from the post-World War II era is the Itameshi style of cuisine. This unique culinary hybrid is responsible for intertwining the rich traditions of Japanese and Italian cuisines, creating a distinctive and delectable fusion. The resultant dishes were as unique as they were delicious. Driven by curiosity and a deep-rooted commitment to their culinary traditions, the Japanese embraced this new influence, embarking on a journey of flavour exploration with Italian ingredients and cooking techniques.

Italian soldiers, serving as ambassadors of their rich heritage, introduced Japanese locals to various aspects of their culture, including their tantalising cuisine. This marked the beginning of a culinary fusion that would later be known as Itameshi. Dishes like Japanese-style pasta, (where miso, soy sauce, bonito flakes, and seaweed are fused seamlessly) and Japanese style pizzas became the flag-bearers of Itameshi cuisine.

Interestingly, a recent food festival at the Sheraton Grand Pune Bund Garden Hotel’s restaurant NUVO introduced Itameshi cuisine for the first time in India. They did this with dishes such as matcha tiramisu, a delightful twist on the classic Italian dessert infused with Japanese matcha green tea powder, a tempura-style fried caprese salad, a sake risotto, and avolcano crab roll jazzed up with Italian chili sauce.

Desi Tadka

Equally popular as the Chinese cuisine borrowed ramen soup in Japan is katsukaré. This scrumptious dish, also called ‘katsu curry’, is made up of a pork cutlet called tonkatsu that is doused in a mild, sweetish-tasting thick curry sauce and served with a portion of Japanese rice.

The second part of its name is a clear give-away of its desi origins. Apparently, in the late 18th century when the Indian subcontinent was under colonial rule by the British Empire, curry was simultaneously introduced to Japan. It would take a few more decades for the Japanese Navy and Army to make curry a staple to feed the troops. This slowly infiltrated to the general population who took a mighty shine to our spicy, turmeric and cumin-redolent curry. Today, kare restaurants abound almost everywhere in Japan serving their own unique version of a borrowed dish. An Indian soul in Japanese garb, one could even say.

Culinary borrowings

● The tempura style of cooking was adapted from a Portuguese cooking style. The use of wheat flour is substituted in Japan with rice or corn flour

● The Castellan sponge cake traces its roots back to a time when Dutch traders lived during Tokugawa shogunate era

● American sandwiches and hamburgers turned into Japanese sandos and hambagu with softer breads and buns holding forth sweeter, often soy sauce and ginger-flavoured meats

● The classic French mayonnaise today is famous in Japan as kewpie mayonnaise

● The Itameshi style of cuisine intertwines the rich traditions of Japanese and Italian cuisines

● The Japanese-style pasta has miso, soy sauce, bonito flakes and seaweed

● The matcha tiramisu is a delightful twist on the classic Italian dessert infused with Japanese matcha green tea powder

● The Japanese katsukare or ‘katsu curry’ is inspired by the Indian curry

Chhena Poda: The Divine Dessert of Odisha

Paneer, it is claimed, existed since Vedic times and there is evidence to indicate that it was known to the people of the Indus Valley civilization. According to Sonal Ved, author of the book – Whose Samosa is it anyway? – the roots of the word Paneer can be found in the Turkish word Peynir.

Chhena, in its present avatar, is believed to have been brought to Bengal by the Portuguese traders who landed around the region of Bandel – a little North of Kolkata – and from there, it spread to parts of eastern India. Ved contests this theory, but I shall put my money on it. They first taught the natives the Dutch way of making cheese. From this emerged, arguably, the only indigenous Indian Cheese, called Bandel Cheese. But we shall store that for another day. Chhena evolved later as a cottage cheese and got absorbed in the local cuisine. It eventually gained popularity beyond Bengal in present-day Odisha, laying the foundation of the Battle of Rosogolla.

But the hero of this piece is not those round balls of Chhena dipped in sugar syrup or gur. It is a lesser known Odia sweet (till not too long ago, almost unknown outside of the state) called Chenna Poda. However, it is considered to be of more recent origin than the Rosogolla, which is traced back to the 15th century AD towards the beginning of Jagannath cult. Chhenna Poda was an accidental discovery of a confectioner Sudarshan Sahu in Dashapalla near Puri – as late as 1947. 

However, it has all the ingredients of a classic and can easily pass off as the food of Gods. I shall spare the gentle readers the detailed story of Chhena Poda, which they can easily find on the internet.

It is a baked dessert that the knowledgeable compare with Basque Cheesecake. However, I think this comparison does injustice to Chhena Poda, which is truly unique and has a character of its own. Chena Poda has to be made from fresh, home-made Chhena (not commercially produced stuff), which is well-kneaded with sugar, semolina and flavoured with cardamom, cashew nuts and raisins and is baked for several hours until it browns. It derives its flavours primarily from the caramelised sugar. A North Indian equivalent of it can be the baked Kalakand sold as Milk Cake. Bengalis have tried to compete, with Baked Sandesh, but nothing comes close to the sublime Chhenna Poda.

Other than Chhena Poda – other Chhena based sweets include Chhena Gaja, Rasabali and Chhena Jilli. On a flying trip to Balasore last week, I succumbed to the temptation of trying all of them, ignoring my diabetologist’s injunction. That all of them were good to die for was my justification.

In general, Odia sweets are under-rated and poorly marketed. Of late, there has been an attempt to popularise Chhena Poda. Nayagarh District has already applied for GI Tag for Chhena Poda, and April 11th, the birth anniversary of Sudarshan Sahu, has been declared as “World Chhena Poda” Day. That is a good decision. Instead of fighting a losing battle over Rosogolla – Odisha would do well to take its true original creation, Chhena Poda, to the world.

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From the Bengali machher jhaal to the Mangalorean gassi, the pomfret is the star of fish curries

Bacon and ham have caught pork lovers’ fancy in India — but sausages are not far behind

Call it poha, aval or chira, this comfort food’s popularity knows no bounds

A taste of Awadh in Jaipur and Kolkata

Famous in China, duck meat is one of India’s underrated regional dishes

Bhim cooked it, Lord Ram relished it: India’s gift to the world is the humble dal

Melon Mania

Nutritional benefit

  • Watermelon has 92% water content and it keeps one refreshed and revitalised

  • Loaded with Vitamin A and C, it strengthens immunity, improves vision and nourishes from within

  • The lycopene content promotes healthy cholesterol levels and blood pressure

  • Despite being sweet, watermelon remains a low-calorie, low-fat, guilt-free indulgence for those mindful of their weight and wellness

  • It also aids in digestive health and prevents constipation

  • Due to its hydrating properties, the fruit is the skin’s best friend as well

  • Though ongoing research is still exploring watermelon’s potential, studies have shown that it may prevent cancer

Frozen watermelon margarita

Ingredients

Watermelon cut into cubes: 800g

Tequila: 125ml

Triple sec: 75ml

Lime: 2, zested and juiced, plus a wedge for the rim

Honey: 2 tsp

For the garnish

Sea salt flakes: 4 tsp

Caster sugar: 2 tsp

Chilli flakes: ¼ tsp

Method

Put the watermelon pieces in a freezer-proof container and keep them overnight until solid. As it cools, prepare the garnish for the rim of each glass. Combine the sea salt flakes, sugar, chilli flakes and lime zest in a small bowl. Set aside. Once the watermelon pieces are set, put them along with tequila, triple sec, lime juice and honey in a food processor and churn them until smooth. Run a lime wedge around the rims then dip in the garnish mix. Pour the drink into the glasses. Serve immediately.

Watermelon Popsicles

Ingredients

Medium-sized watermelon: One

Lime juice

Method

Cut one medium-sized watermelon and chop them into cubes. In a blender, add the melon pieces and freshly squeezed lime juice for a better taste. Blend until completely smooth. Pour the watermelon mixture into popsicle molds, cover and add popsicle sticks to them. Finally, freeze the popsicles until they’re set, either 4 hours or overnight.

Watermelon pudding

Ingredients

Watermelon: 4 cups (coarsely chopped)

Cornstarch: 2 tbsp

Granulated sugar: ¼ cup

Vanilla bean: ½

Fresh lemon juice: 2 tsp

Garnish

Whipped cream (optional)

Unsalted pistachios (chopped or ground)

Method

Blend the watermelon pieces until smooth. Pour through a strainer into a cup. This will have 3 cups of watermelon juice. Take 2 tbsp watermelon juice into a small bowl and add cornstarch. Stir until it’s smooth. Pour the remaining watermelon juice into a saucepan. Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 min. Add sugar and vanilla seeds, then whisk until sugar is dissolved. Stir the cornstarch mixture again and add to the watermelon juice. Simmer and stir occasionally, for 3 minutes. Add lemon juice. Pour the pudding through a clean strainer into small glass jars. Cover and chill for 3 hours.

Watermelon rind pickle

Courtesy: The Spruce Eats

Ingredients

Watermelon rind: 0.97kg

Pickling salt: 1/4 cup

Water: 4 cups

Granulated sugar: 2 cups

White vinegar: 1 cup

Cinnamon stick, broken up: 1 tbsp

Whole cloves: 1 ½ tsp

Thinly sliced lemon: 1/2

Method

Remove the dark green and pink parts from the watermelon rind. Cut rind into 1-inch cubes and measure out 7 cups. Put the rind in a container with salt and 3 cups of water. Add more water to cover the rinds, if necessary. Soak overnight. Drain and rinse rind. Cover the rind with cold water in a saucepan. Simmer for about 10 minutes. Combine the sugar, vinegar, cinnamon, whole cloves, and remaining 1 cup water. Simmer for 10 minutes in a pot. Add the drained watermelon rind, lemon slices, and simmer the mixture for 30 min. Fill half-pint jars with the hot watermelon rind and syrup mixture, Jars should be kept in boiling water for 5 min. Then let it cool.

Watermelon, cucumber, feta salad

Ingredients

Honey: 2 tbsp, Lime juice: 2 tbsp

Extra virgin olive oil: 1 to 2 tbsp

Salt: a pinch , Salad

Watermelon (peeled, cut into cubes): ½

Cucumber (cubed): 2 cups

Fresh mint leaves (chopped): 15

Fresh basil leaves (chopped): 15

Crumbled feta cheese: ½ cup

Method : In a bowl, whisk honey, lime juice, olive oil and a pinch of salt together. Set aside for a moment. In a large bowl, combine the watermelon, cucumbers, and fresh herbs. Top the watermelon salad with the dressing and gently toss to combine. Add the feta cheese.

A tryst with Tanjore

The juicy baby lobster chilli fry gives fresh Goan seafood a delightful nod. Try the local fish chonak in an unbeatable piquant curry; the yummy Marina pork curry is slow-cooked, and calamari-bellied with grilled, minced prawns. This is wholesome, robust food, flavour-driven and ingredient-proud.

Chintamani chicken parades as a Chennai classic, with its searing flavours making mini bolts of pleasure surge through your palate. The best part is the choice of the dozen-odd curries that the tasting thaali offers, allowing you to make an informed choice. The curry, with different bases including coconut, tamarind, tomato…, is customised in keeping with vegetarian and non-vegetarian additions. The simple omelette curry is a silent showstopper with coriander, cumin and mint swirls.

“It’s easy to set up a beautiful restaurant, with great food, but if the overall experience isn’t enjoyable for the guests, you have failed,” says Kishore, having spun out two sibling superstars of The Tanjore Tiffin Room in Bandra and Versova respectively, earlier, in Mumbai. The mean mixology at the bar brings in cool cocktails, especially in the gin spin Garden Galata with passion fruit and citrus bitters. Popcorn infusions in tequila tip the scales in favour of an encore, while tiny coconut jaggery paniyarams make a mark—soft and podgy—in the subtle-sweet endings. Why choose Goa, and not Pune, Delhi, or Bengaluru? “Opening a restaurant in Goa puts you on the global map instantly,” smiles Kishore. We couldn’t agree more.

Uma Athai Curry

Ingredients

● Sesame oil:1/2 cup

● Fennel seeds: 5gm

● Mustard seeds: 5gm

● Curry leaves: 15-20

● Cinnamon stick:1 inch

● Onion: 3

● Tomato: 1

● Green chilli: 2

● Turmeric powder: 5gm

● Cumin powder: 5gm

● Coriander powder: 5gm

● Salt to taste

● Mutton masala: 15gm

● Red chilli powder: 5gm

● Ginger-garlic paste: 15gm

● Mint leaves: 5gm

● Boneless chicken leg: 500gm

Method

● Heat oil in a wok

● Add cinnamon stick, mustard seeds, dennel seeds, curry leaves

● Add julienned onion and sauté until transparent

● Add julienned tomato and slit green chillis

● Add ginger garlic paste

● Add chicken and fry

● Add salt and the powdered spices

● Add hot water and bring to a boil

● Simmer until cooked

● Garnish with chopped coriander leaves and mint leaves

A sweet tour of India

The unique business comes with its own challenges, especially transportation and the shelf-life of products sourced from the northern regions. Despite being aware of these risks, Karthik remained firm in his idea and refused to compromise on the quality.

“It was quite challenging,” he admits, “especially when dealing with wholesale sellers who prefer bulk orders. However, I couldn’t take large orders. So, I proposed a solution that I would place minimum orders but do so multiple times, taking care of all transportation logistics myself.”

In addition to authentic flavours, the bakery offers popular products like ‘Sweet Karam Coffee’ known for its homemade quality and absence of palm oil and preservatives.

“We make an effort to understand the backstory of every product from the vendors. When people come to buy something, we explain these tales and how the product is made, the ingredients, and where it comesfrom. This way, people get excited and they can try different items from different places. Otherwise, one would be just picking a packet and taking it home, without understanding them,” says Karthik.

A doughnut heaven in Kochi!

KOCHI: I was midway into a hearty Korean meal the first time someone mentioned ‘Choco Brown’. Specifically, their doughnuts.

After the near-overwhelming culinary journey of the exotic, I yearned to embrace the somewhat familiar. However, my idea of a doughnut as a rounding-off dessert was without sheen after some lacklustre experiences in the past. What prodded me on was my friend’s seemingly bombastic statement that Choco Brown had the best doughnuts in Kochi.

As a native resident of the city for over 30 years, I simply had to counter this Kottarakkara native. But first, I had to bite the bullet, er, the bun…

Under a canopy of trees just metres from the Arakkakadavu Bridge in Vennala, I found young men, letting go of their macho image, licking their fingers. Chocolate stained their cheeks. No one seemed to mind.

Perched on their bikes and with a chocolate bun in each hand, the conversation of the group dwindled to an occasional ‘mmm…’ All eyes were trained on the gooey chocolate that filled the bun’s centre, now seen oozing out.

“Doughnuts from Choco Brown are our favourite. They were already sold out, so we settled for chocolate buns, which are also equally good,” says Arjun Pradeep, a college student.

The surge in demand prompted Lovely S K, who runs the outlet with her partner Sanjeev K M, to increase the number of doughnuts produced. “The demand is very high. We run out of doughnuts by 5pm most days,” says Lovely.

How this four-month-old establishment has earned such a rave following, and that, too, from Arakkakadavu – a region which I had decades prior written off as where civilisation ended — is a complete mystery to me. So I ask around.

Algorithmic Artistry

Ever wondered how artificial intelligence could become your creative collaborator? Dive into the world of DALL-E 3, an AI art generator that’s ready to bring your imaginative prompts to life. Whether you’re a seasoned creator or just starting, discover tips and tricks aimed to refine your artistic prompts for optimal results.

1. Harness the Power of Seed Numbers: When creating a series of images, use seed numbers as blueprints for consistency. They ensure that characters or elements maintain the same appearance across multiple generations, providing a uniform look to your artwork.

2. Customise with GPT App Builder: Customise the OpenAI GPT app builder to match your unique style, allowing you to create various GPT models tailored to specific artistic needs. This helps automate parts of the image creation process, boosting efficiency.

3. Provide Detailed Descriptions: For lifelike images, furnish DALL-E 3 with intricate details in your instructions. The more specific you are, the closer the generated image aligns with your vision.

4. Precision in Text with Quotation Marks: When incorporating text in your images, use quotation marks for precision. This small detail ensures that DALL-E 3 accurately captures the intended text in your visuals.

5. Specify Size, Orientation, and Style: Clearly communicate the size, orientation and desired style of your images. Whether it’s a wide landscape or a tall portrait, these parameters guide DALL-E 3 in creating the perfect image for your project.

6. Carefully Choose Adjectives: The choice of adjectives can significantly impact the emotional tone of your images. Select words like gloomy, vibrant, or serene to influence the mood and feel of your visuals.

7. Reference Artistic Styles or Themes: Guide the AI by referencing specific artistic styles or themes. Whether it’s Baroque grandeur or minimalistic simplicity, these references help align DALL-E 3 with your artistic vision.

8. Emphasise Lighting and Mood, and Indicate Perspective: Specify lighting and mood elements to set the emotional depth of your images. Lighting, in particular, can completely transform the perception of a scene. Also, define the perspective you desire, be it an aerial view, close-up, or any other angle.

9. Iterate and Refine Prompts: Continuously refine your prompts based on outcomes to improve precision and personalisation in image generation.

10. Experiment with Colour Palettes and Techniques: Define specific colour schemes and artistic techniques to align the image with your visual theme. Experimentation adds variety and uniqueness to your creations.

Remember, refining prompts is an iterative process. By following these tips, you will not only enhance your skills in image generation but also create visuals that resonate deeply with your artistic vision. Whether you’re a seasoned professional or just starting, these strategies will help you craft stunning images that stand out in the digital landscape.

The Underrated Tradition of Pulao

Chicken Tikka Masala has long displaced traditional Fish and Chips as the national food of Britain. Similarly, if a referendum was conducted today about what is the new national food of India there will be a keen contest between Biryani and Chow Mein in which the former may win by a whisker. However, the scale may tilt soon as ‘Maggi’ and ‘Wai-Wai’ noodles inveigle their way into the menu cards of respectable restaurants. But for now, Biryani is an almost mandatory entrée at banquets and weddings in its myriad versions – including the oxymoronic vegetarian variant. In the process what we have lost are the long tradition ethnic pulaos including ones cooked with meat.

What is the difference between Biryani and a meat Pulao? Ask a Biryani aficionado and she is likely to tell you – Pulao is badly prepared Biryani. That is, of course, not true. Though real Biryani is an elaborate art form, making Pulao requires a great deal of skill and experience too. The distinction lies in the method of cooking. Explained in technical terms Biryani is prepared with half-cooked par-boiled rice after draining off the starch and then placing it in layers, alternating with masala and meat allowing the aromas and flavours to be absorbed into the rice during finishing it in the ‘dum’. As a result, the grains of rice in a Biryani remain separate. In a good Biryani, the rice must never be soggy. In contrast, for a Pulao, the rice is cooked in the stock and then the meat or vegetables (usually either, not both) are added into it. The two are cooked together for some more time for the flavours to be absorbed in the rice. Pulao, therefore, takes less time to make as it is cooked in medium flame (sometimes even in pressure cookers) unlike Biryani which is matured over slow fire to bring out the subtle aromas. While there is greater intermingling of the meat and rice — a Pulao is neither soggy nor a khichdi as some Biryani purists unfairly diss it.

I first saw Meat Pulao being commercially sold at a shack in Delhi’s Connaught Place — Rama Meat Pulao — which, I believe, has since closed. Along with Mutton or Chicken Pulao they would also serve a Chicken Soup — more like a broth made with the leftover bones and the morsels of meat stuck on it. Our older colleague Naunihal Singh Sodhi aka Sodhi-saab would take us there for lunch on some winter afternoons. But, to be honest, it was like having a fiery mutton curry and rice with onions on the side. But a more recent discovery was Hanumanthu Pulav in Mysuru courtesy my friend and adopted younger brother Saumitra Bhattacharya.

Now there are more than one Hanumanthus — but the original is on Akbar Road near Mandi Mohalla. Surely, the restaurant has its own proprietary recipe with a secret ingredient method of cooking developed and perfected over time and cooks trained over generations but I am told the basic character of their signature dish is the pulao typically served in a “mess”. What sets this pulao apart is the use of coconut milk mixed with ground spices unlike versions in the North where some whole elements like star anise, cardamom and cinnamon remain in the rice. The Andhra Kodi (Chicken) Pulao too has Coconut milk but it uses a plethora of spices, cashews and peanuts in addition to whole spices, green chillies, curry leaves and curd. Left to me, I would prefer the Coastal Andhra Biryani which is less complex and more compact.

Utterly Butterly Brown

Sadhu reveals another culinary secret: “Use your ears”. As moisture evaporates, the sizzling sound diminishes, indicating rapid browning. Once the desired colour is achieved, swiftly halt the cooking by adding a cool splash like lemon juice, dipping the pan’s bottom in cold water, or transferring the butter to a suitable container. With practice, improvisation becomes effortless. Even with additional ingredients, achieving this only takes minutes. Drizzle over steamed fish, coat noodles and parmesan for rapid pasta, and savour the delectable results.

“Having been a long-time enthusiast of browned butter, I truly appreciate its delicious blend of sweet and nutty aromas. In our current menu, we’re showcasing a smoked brown butter infused with jaggery, elegantly paired with caviar. This innovative concept draws inspiration from the harmonious interplay of sweet and savoury flavours seen in Punjabi cuisine, reminiscent of traditional delicacies like gur, safed makkhan, makki roti or the beloved puri-halwa-chana combo,” adds Garima Arora, chef-owner of Michelin-starred modern Indian restaurant GAA and Marigold, both in Bangkok.

In dessert-making, brown butter is a versatile ingredient. It enhances existing flavours or mimics the taste of nuts. When folded into madeleine, it adds a distinctive nutty fragrance, transforming these delicate cakes. Additionally, it excels in sautéing fruits like caramelised bananas, pineapple, pears and apples.

Combined with sugar and vanilla bean, the result is a luscious topping for ice cream or pound cake. Surprisingly, brown butter can replace regular butter in tart crusts and cookie dough, adding a depth of flavour.

“Through the art of whipping, butter undergoes a natural transformation, becoming lighter, sweeter and remarkably easy to spread. This malleability is a perfect vehicle for carrying flavours, exemplifying the secret behind our delectable besan laddoo. We discreetly incorporate whipped brown butter to enhance its irresistible nutty essence,” smiles Arora.

BROWN BUTTER CARAMEL CRÉME BY CHEF DHRUV OBEROI

For brown butter

● Unsalted butter: 113 gm

● Heat skillet, melt butter while whisking. Watch for browned specks and nutty aroma. Remove from heat and keep aside.

For the caramel créme

● Sugar: 210 gm

● Brown butter: 85 gm

● Heavy cream: 120 ml

Heat sugar in saucepan, stirring vigorously as it melts. Turn off the heat; add brown butter, then cream, whisking to combine. Let cool briefly in pan, then transfer to a jar and cool at room temperature. Can be stored in the fridge for up to two weeks. To reheat, microwave until warm and pourable.

The pulse of food

Legumes in a way have been an important part of agriculture for centuries. These small beings even became as integral as grains, a commodity which is considered to be a staple.

As per records, evidence of the cultivation of lentils has been discovered in the Egyptian pyramids. Interestingly, the royal Egyptian tombs contained lentils,–this could be true–as the pharaohs stocked tombs with food. That was a way to sustain the dead in the afterlife.

Pulses were also a part of the patrician families that controlled the Roman empire. The Romans consumed more legumes in their diet than any other civilisations, and these legumes even found their way into the names of some historical figures. For example, first-century Roman senator Gaius Calpurnius Piso was named after peas and Roman politician and general, Publius Cornelius Lentulus Spinther or simply Lentulus was named after Lentis. And the visionary Marcus Tullius Cicero of Rome was named after cicer (Latin for chickpea), because one of his ancestors had a cleft at the tip of his nose, resembling a chickpea.

Pulses provide about 10% of the total dietary protein consumed in the world and even have twice the protein content of most cereal grains. According to Italian historian and philosopher Umberto Eco, peas, beans, and lentils could have saved the Western civilisations during the early Middle Ages. And it is said that the introduction of pulses gave way to a more nutrition-filled diet for the populace and helped save generations of people in Europe from malnutrition after the Black Plague ravaged the land in the 1340s.

The seeds of the legume plants were also pivotal in several traditions. During the New Year’s celebration in Iran, which lasts for up to 13 days, the dining table displays seven food items starting with the letter ‘S’ and of these, lentil seeds known as ‘sabzi’ take the centre stage to symbolise rebirth and renewal. Also for hundreds of years, northern Italy has been enjoying the New Year’s tradition with lentils. Here, the pulse symbolised coins and were eaten to ensure good fortune throughout the year.

India and Pulses

Pulses have been the crucial food grown by farmers for millennia in India. The Indian subcontinent has been the place of origin of several pulses, including pigeonpea, black gram, green gram, lablab bean, moth bean, and horse gram. There’s also a possibility of chickpea and the Indian-type lentil being domesticated in the Indian subcontinent.

Chickpeas are claimed to have originated in the Turkey-Syria region and then spread to South Asia. However, there has also been a documented history of chickpeas in India. In Rigveda, there’s a mention of a grain called Khalva and Yajurveda specifies khalva as a pulse. Also, Chanakya (321-296BC) mention a post rainy season crop called Kalaya which can be consumed in various ways, including in the roasted form. According to experts, the word Kalaya has a resemblance to khalva and the word used today for chickpeas in Karnataka (kadale) and Kerala (kadala).

Whereas black gram has remained confined to South Asia. Its ancient Sanskrit name is Masha, and the word has been mentioned even in works like Mahabharata.

Horse gram is indigenous to the Indian subcontinent. Archaeological evidence proves the use of horse gram as food around 2000 BC. In Rigveda, Yajurveda and even in Buddhist and Jain literature, mentioning of horse gram is evident, but in different names.

Environmental benefits

Pulses improve soil quality and this makes them a perfect choice for intercropping. Also, its unique ability to capture nitrogen from the air and store it in the roots makes it less dependent on fertilisers compared to other crops. Since leguminous plants require little water, they can be adapted very well to dry soils. Now this has brought greater benefits to African farming communities.

Power Pack

  • High in protein: Pulses are an excellent source of plant-based protein, making them ideal for vegetarians and vegans.

  • Rich in fibre: They are high in dietary fibre, which promotes digestive health, aids in weight management, and helps regulate blood sugar levels.

  • Low in fat: Pulses are low in fat, particularly saturated fat, making them heart-healthy options.

  • Complex carbohydrates: They provide complex carbohydrates, offering sustained energy and keeping you feeling full for longer periods.

  • Vitamins and minerals: Pulses are rich in vitamins such as folate, vitamin B6, and vitamin C, as well as minerals like iron, potassium, and magnesium.

  • Antioxidants: They contain various antioxidants, including flavonoids and phenolic compounds, which help fight inflammation and oxidative stress in the body.

  • Low glycemic index: Pulses have a low glycemic index, meaning they cause a gradual rise in blood sugar levels, making them suitable for individuals with diabetes.

  • Cholesterol-lowering properties: Regular consumption of pulses may help lower cholesterol levels and reduce the risk of heart disease.

Sprouts Salad

Courtesy: Chef Arun Vijayan, Restaurant consultant

INGREDIENTS

Sprout green gram: 150 gram

Sprout black channa: 80 gram

Chopped cucumber: 25 gram

Chopped seedless tomatoes: 20 gram

Pomegranate seeds: 15 gram

Chopped onions: 20 gram

FOR DRESSING

Salt to taste

Honey: 5 ml

Olive oil: 20 ml

Lemon juice: 5 ml

White pepper powder: 2 gram

METHOD

Prepare the dressing and keep it aside. In a bowl, mix all the ingredients along with the prepared dressing.

Chocolate Chickpea Mousse

Recipe by Sheeba La Fleur

INGREDIENTS

Aquafaba, liquid from one can of chickpeas – 1 can

Cup sugar – 1/4cup

Cream of tartar – 1/2 tsp

Dark chocolate chips – 2 cups

Coconut milk – 115 oz can

*For garnish*

Orange zest – 1 tsp

Chopped pistachios – 2tbsp

METHOD

Pour the liquid from the chickpeas into the bowl of a stand mixer. Attach the whisk and beat on high speed until soft peaks form. Gradually add the sugar and cream of tartar to the mixer while it’s running. Continue whisking until stiff peaks form. Place the chocolate in a large bowl, and melt the chocolate either in the microwave or over a double boiler. Allow the melted chocolate to cool slightly. Gently fold the melted chocolate into the whipped chickpea meringue until well combined. In a separate mixing bowl, add the coconut cream and whisk until stiff peaks form. Add 1/3 of the whipped coconut cream into the chocolate-chickpea mixture, stirring gently to combine. Then, carefully fold in the remaining coconut cream until evenly distributed. Divide the mixture evenly into four 1-cup containers. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours to set. Before serving, garnish each portion with chopped pistachios and a sprinkle of orange zest.

Mix fruit horse gram

Courtesy: Chef Arun Vijayan, Restaurant consultant

INGREDIENTS

Boiled horse gram: 150 gram

Strawberry cubes: 15 gram

Kiwi cubes: 10 gram

Sesame seeds : 5 gram

Edible flower for garnish

Skinless coconut slices : 5 gram

Black grapes: 15 gram

METHOD

In a bowl,arrange the all ingredients and garnish with edible flower.

Toor dal curry

INGREDIENTS

Toor Dal- 3/4 cup

Chana dal- 1/4 cup

Jeera- 1tsp

Green chilli- 3 nos

Onion- 1 large

Ginger garlic paste- 1 tsp

Tomato- 1 medium

Turmeric- 1/4 tsp

Chilli powder- 1tsp

Coriander powder- 1tbsp

Garam masala- 1/2 tsp

Kasoori methi- 1tbsp

Salt- as per taste

Oil- 2 tbsp

In prior: Cook both the dals in a pressure cooker with 3 cups of water and wait for 3 whistles.

METHOD

Heat some oil in a pan and sauté jeera, green chillis, ginger garlic paste, and onion. After the onion has turned translucent add the tomatoes and cook it till it’s mushy. Then add the masalas and sauté till the raw smell is gone. Add kasoori methi and cooked dal alongwith the water it has been cooked with. Simmer it for 15 min, top it up with a dollop of fresh cream and kasoori methi and enjoy it with roti and rice.

The many perks of fermentation

CHENNAI: Fermented foods have been an important component of the human diet from time immemorial. It contains a high number of probiotics that have been associated with a wide range of health benefits, including improved digestion and immunity. Fermented food is generally defined as an edible product produced from raw or cooked substances that are of plant or animal origin, produced by microorganisms either spontaneously or by adding in some cultures.

Traditional fermented food preparation is one of the oldest biotechnological processes around the world in which microorganisms play a crucial role in the improvement of sensory characteristics, bio enrichment, health-promoting attributes, and preservation of foods. Fermentation helps reduce nondigestible carbohydrates, enriches the pool of essential amino acids, vitamins, and minerals, and increases the overall quality, digestibility, taste, and aroma of the food.

Rice is known as the grain of life and is synonymous with food for every Indian. The Indians derive 80% of their energy needs from rice, which contains 80% carbohydrates, 7–8% protein, 3% fat, and 3% fibre. The mineral content, starch quality, glycaemic index, and antioxidant activity have made rice unique among cereals. Positive qualities of high digestibility of starch, high biological value of amino acids, high content of fatty acids and selenium, and antihypertensive effects.

Due to it being the most available and common food resource in the Indian subcontinent, the preparation of different types of fermented foods and beverages from rice has been a regular practice for a long time. Fermentation enriches the rice, supplements it with different essential amino acids, vitamins, minerals, prebiotics, and probiotic organisms, and degrades antinutrients (phytic acid, tannins, and polyphenols). Thus, its nutrition, energy contents, and therapeutic potential are increased.

Rice or any starch-containing cereal-based media favours the growth of ubiquitous groups of microbes like lactic acid bacteria (LAB), lactobacillus, bifidobacteria, yeast and moulds. LAB fermentation in cereal-containing foods provides a natural way to concentrate and enhance nutrients, destroy undesirable components, enrich with therapeutic components and modify the sensory qualities of the food. Additionally, these make food preparation easy (reduced cooking times and lower energy consumption), facilitate preservation from the detrimental effects of spoilage and pathogenic organisms, and enhance product safety.

Doling out delicious designs for 25 years

The Cake World’s signature products are the rich plum cake and customised designs of wedding cakes. They manufacture all bakery and confectionery products mainly a variety of pound cakes, Velvet cakes, cookies, donuts, muffins, tea cakes, and authentic cheese and mousse cakes. They craft their products with passion and vibrancy of the highest quality while making photo print cakes, fondant cakes, 3D cakes, bomb cakes. 

A wild cheese chase: The story of Panchal Dairy

Revolutions are born from the need of the moment. Such is the story of Panchal Dairy, named after the Panchal Rabari pastoral community of Gujarat, which rears the indigenous Panchali sheep. Headed by 25-year-olds Arpan Kalotra and Bhimsinhbhai Ghanghal this artisan cheese-making facility in the village of Sayla, 136 km from Ahmedabad, is slowly making history. The area is also home to the Zalavadi goat. Another endemic breed of goats, Gohilwadi, is found in the neighbouring districts. 

Kalotra says as the demand for goat and sheep milk began to fall vis-à-vis bovine milk, the community, which largely rears goats and sheep, looked for ways to cut their losses. “Goat and sheep milk have a strong smell and taste compared to bovine milk, and also have a shorter shelf life. This impacted sales. Besides, over the years, many government rules and regulations reduced the grazing areas, making it difficult to maintain livestock. The younger generation started taking up small jobs in the cities. We had to look for a way out to self-sustain,” he says.

As luck would have it, in 2022, Sahjeevan Centre for Pastoralism (CfP) in Bhuj, Kutch district, took up the initiative to develop entrepreneurship among the pastoral youth. With a large livestock herding population in the region, Sahjeevan realised that there is a considerable potential for entrepreneurship linked to value-added products that could rejuvenate pastoral people’s livelihood. During the training programme, Kalotra and Ghanghal learnt about a dairy course at Anand—the milk capital of India—where they learned to convert milk into other products.

“We started the dairy to supplement our income with products like ice-creams, lassi, khoya and yoghurt. The biggest challenge, however, was that these items were highly perishable,” Ghanghal says. During the workshop, the duo learnt that cheese-making can be a worthwhile social enterprise as the product lasts longer. The idea was given shape by CfP, which agreed to support the two budding entrepreneurs in establishing a cheese-making unit in Surendranagar district of Saurashtra. 

CfP also brought on board one of the partners at Chennai-based Kase Cheese, Namrata Sundaresan—who is the only certified cheese instructor in India under the UK-based Academy of Cheese—to train them. She says, “It took 18 months, wherein they were trained on each product, almost on a monthly basis, resulting in 12 different kinds of cheese. The product mix includes specialties like Chevre, Halloumi, Feta and the classic Goat Tomme, which is an Alpine-style cheese.” 

Chevre

The fact that there are close to 3,500 goat- and sheep-herding households in the region made it easier for the two entrepreneurs to source milk from a shipping point, making Sayla the perfect location for a goat and sheep cheese creamery. While goat cheese is more crumbly, sheep cheese is more cohesive. Also, the quantity of sheep cheese is far less and the price is higher as the animal only breeds only once a year during winters, so herders can only get the milk after lambing.

Kalotra and Ghanghal started production in 2022, selling the cheese at exhibitions and farmers’ markets. “With the experience we have got, we are now ready to work with retail markets and the catering sector to supply the cheese,” they say, as they mull creating an ‘experience centre’ at Sayla. “We have had students from hotel management and culinary institutes visiting us. Tourists also come to see the factory,” says Kalotra, adding, “Visitors can experience the whole process, which begins less than four hours after the milking of goats and sheep.” What started with trying to self-sustain the herding community has now evolved into the business being a part of the burgeoning Indian cheese market, which is expected to reach `262.6 billion by 2028.

Dumpling delight 

CHENNAI: As Vinayakar Chaturthi is just around the corner, move over from your usual sweet and savoury kozhukattais, and indulge in these sumptuous alternative recipes. Home chefs offer a unique list of these wrapped wonders this festive season.

Mango Modak
By Indira Narayan
Ingredients

Cashew-nut powder: 1 cup
Mango pulp: 1/2 a cup
Milk powder: 1/2 a cup
Powdered sugar: 2 tbsp (optional) Ghee: 1 tbsp
Saffron threads: A pinch soaked in 1 tbsp of milk for garnish
Method
Mix all the ingredients together in a heavy-bottomed pan.
Heat the pan in low flame and stir the mixture for a while.
Keep adding ghee at regular intervals and continue stirring, until the mixture rolls into a ball. Once it rolls into a ball, take it out and let it cool down. Pour the mixture into a modak mould to give it the desired shape and take it out. Finally, garnish the prepared modak with saffron.

Pandan Modak

By Kiran G Thomas
Ingredients
Filling

Grated coconut: 2 cups
Jaggery: 1 cup, Cardamom: 4, Nutmeg: a pinch
Ghee: 1 tsp, Pandan leaves extract: 2 tsp
Outer cover
Rice flour: 1 cup
Water: 1 cup, Salt: a pinch
Ghee: 1 tsp + 1 tsp for greasing
METHOD
Add ghee to a hot pan. Sauté jaggery, and coconut and mix well till it thickens. Add cardamom and nutmeg.
Boil water with salt and ghee. Mix in the flour. Knead into a soft non-sticky dough when hot. Mix the pandan leaves extract thoroughly. Divide the dough into 11 balls. Cover with a damp cloth.
Spread each dough and place the coconut filling. Bring the corners together to make pleats. Steam for 10-12 minutes. Remove after 5 minutes and serve.

Saffron Modak
By Kiran G Thomas
Ingredients

Filling
Grated coconut: 2 cups
Jaggery: 1 cup, Cardamom: 4
Nutmeg: a pinch
Ghee: 1 tsp, Saffron: 2 tsp
Outer cover
Rice flour: 1 cup
Water: 1 cup
Salt: a pinch
Ghee: 1 tsp + 1tsp for greasing
Method
Add ghee to a hot pan. Sauté jaggery, coconut, and saffron until they blend well and turn thick. Do not overcook. Excess moisture should not be there in the pan. Add cardamom and nutmeg and turn off the stove.
Boil 1 cup of water with salt and ghee. Add the flour and give a good mix. When it is hot knead it into a soft non-sticky yet smooth crack-free dough. Sprinkle with hot water. Divide the dough to make 11 equal-sized balls. Cover it with a damp cloth.

Once the coconut filling has cooled down, take each ball to your palm and smoothen it to a crack-free softball.

Make a dent in a circular dough. Then spread the dough to make a thin discussing thumb and forefinger. Make pleats at a distance of 1/2 inch on the outer side of the disc. Place the coconut in the centre. Bring the pleats and join them carefully. Steam them in a steam basket in a pressure cooker for 10 to 12 minutes. After 5 minutes remove them and keep them in the tray.

Dry Fruits  Modak

By Parul Bhatt

 Ingredients
Figs: 6, Seedless dates: 8 
Almonds: 15-16, Walnuts: 1 tsp 
Pistachios: 5
Cashewnuts: 10  
Rose water: 1.5 tbsp 
Khus Khus: 1 tsp
Desiccated coconut: 1 tsp 
Ghee: 1 tbsp, Raisins: 10 

Cardamom powder: 1 tsp 
Cinnamon powder: ¼ tsp 
Method  
Put the nuts in a food processor. Process them into a slightly coarse powder. Set them aside.
Add the pitted dates, figs, and rose water to the processor and blitz them until they come together like soft dough.
In a large bowl, combine all the ingredients. Grease the modak mould with ghee.
Fill the dough mixture into the mould, close it, and trim off excess dough. Gently unmould and it is ready to be served.

Coconut Rose Modak

By Indira Narayan
Ingredients

Desiccated coconut: 1/4 cups
Condensed milk: 1/2 cup
Beetroot juice: 1/2 tsp
Cardamom powder: a pinch
Rose essence: 1/4 tsp
Pistachio (crushed)
Ghee: 2 tbsp
Method
Heat condensed milk, coconut and beetroot juice in a heavy bottom pan. Cook on low flame and stir till it comes together.
Add a little ghee and when it becomes like a ball, switch off the stove.
Grease the modak mould with ghee. Pinch a small portion of the dough and push it from the bottom. Press tightly. Gently open the modak mould.
Roll the modak over the crushed pistachios.

 (Inputs by Archita Raghu, Diya Maria George and Sonu M Kothari)

Cakes, bakes and beyond

CHENNAI: For most of us, celebrations are synonymous with cutting cakes. The often round creations, richly spongy with fruits or cream, iced and decorated with different layers have unquestionably occupied our minds for a long time. Cracking the code of introducing variations within cakes, even linking ice-cream flavours with cakes for more than three decades is Chennai’s Cakewalk Cafe. The journey from September 3, 1990 wasn’t a cakewalk for the founder J Srinivasan and his general manager Raji Paul. Now, the team has grown, as Srinivasan’s daughters, Pooja Srinivasan and Kavya Srinivasan, have also taken charge of the business and the cafe on Kothari Road offers a bunch of items ranging from pizzas, pastas, and French fries to lasagna and steaks. The sisters walk CE through their journey and their two-month-old cafe. 

A rustic serve
In David Burton’s The Raj at the Table, he describes cake-baking as a tricky and finicky affair, as there is an unavailability of quality flour and yeast. Cakewalk solved this issue first. “Everything is made in-house from scratch. Pizza dough is freshly fermented in the upstairs bakery of the cafe. Most of the products are locally sourced. Everything is also halal,” says Pooja, adding that chocolates are imported as the chocolate industry in India is nascent. 

Initially, the place was called Crisp Cafe, with an outlet in Bengaluru too, where cakes took centre stage. Recently, the brand was renamed Cakewalk Cafe and the store underwent a makeover. The bricks, carefully assembled inside and outside, give a rustic, cozy ambience. The brown-white theme provides a warm and inviting atmosphere, setting the stage for a memorable culinary journey. Speaking about her inspiration for designing the cafe, Kavya who studied architecture in Australia and did the interiors shares, “My style and interest is in contemporary chic interiors which is why I wanted to showcase that through my own cafe project. I kept in mind the current trend of the youth and expressed it through exciting corners.”  

Even during the pandemic, the cafe ran with the sincere customer base it has cultivated over the years. Speaking about the challenges they faced, Raji says, “Aligning with the customer mindset and constantly updating ourselves has been a challenge but, we have managed to do that. Nowadays, customers have more knowledge about food and its authentic taste so we cannot mimic items.” Concurring Pooja shares, “Our staff are being trained and updated every 15 days to stick to the regulations of FSSAI. We give preference to hygiene and quality over everything else.”

On the menu
Over the years, even though the menu has undergone a lot of changes, a few items continue to be the legacy of the cafe. Pooja shares that their red velvet pancakes are a must-try. Their menu is a delicious combination of traditional Indian food and international cuisine. Cakewalk Cafe also provides savoury delicacies that are as alluring, as if the sweet temptations weren’t enough. The Classic Marg Pizza captures the essence of traditional Italian flavours with its smoothly crisp dough, toppings of mozzarella cheese, fresh basil, and tangy pizza sauce. Every bite delivers a rush of gratifying cheese bliss.

We begin with a seemingly simple Fried Buttermilk Chicken with Podi Mayo. The homemade Podi Mayo complements the buttermilk marinade’s acidic and subtly creamy undertone. It is an instant hit when traditional Indian flavours are combined with Western elements. 

Next up is the Mutton Kheema Tapas where the mutton is cooked precisely with a combination of fragrant spices that resulted in a flavour explosion in every bite. The tapas are presented on crisp bread, which gives the food a delicious crunch. It has the ideal blend of spiciness and subtlety, leaving me wanting more. 

For the health-conscious diners, the Pesto with Grilled Vegetables is a good option. Pooja adds, “Our vegetarian dishes are purely vegetarian and don’t contain egg.” The dish is a blend of grilled broccoli and other vegetables topped with a generous slathering of in-house pesto sauce. 

We end the meal with the rich and velvety chocolate truffle that is simply melt-in-your-mouth, releasing an intense burst of gooey goodness. For those seeking a harmonious blend of coffee and dessert, the Affogato Trifle is a must-try. It boasts layers of chocolate sponge, coffee caramel, and vanilla mousse, all crowned with a generous scoop of ice cream and a shot of espresso. 

The cafe has also recently launched a menu of weekend breakfast which has both vegetarian and non-vegetarian options. They are also available on all food delivery platforms. For details, follow @cakewalk1990 on Instagram. 

Flavours from the Chettinad kitchens

CHENNAI: Chettinad cuisine, one of the most renowned cuisines of Tamil Nadu, is linked to a community called Nattukottai Chettiar (Nagarathar) from the Chettinad (Sivagangai) region. History tells us that Nagarathars who initially lived around the modern-day Poompuhar relocated inland to the hot, dry and arid Sivagangai region due to natural calamities. The Chettiars didn’t stop there and as traders and mercantile bankers, they started to travel and trade with Malabar region, Calcutta, Ceylon (Sri Lanka), Burma and Malay states (Malaysia, Singapore).

The explorations brought changes in their lifestyle, food and economy. The Chettiars who were traditionally vegetarians were introduced to meat, fish, pepper, red rice and spices because of their life beyond the Chettinad.

Their proximity with the Britishers and the westernisation of their palate gave birth to the Butler cuisine (Anglo-Indian-British food with Indian spices), a forerunner of modern-day fusion food. Dishes like mutton chops, mulligatwany soup and cutlets are examples. In addition to accumulating wealth, local spices and food habits, the Chettiars also helped to boost the economy by contributing to the paddy cultivation in Burma, reviving coffee plantations in Sri Lanka and so on. 

Chettinad food is an amalgamation of both subtle and strong flavours. The ancient Tamil saying ‘One is lucky to eat like a Chettiar’ is happily vouched for by the community. A typical Chettinad meal is cooked by a set of cooks under the watchful supervision of aachis and is served on a banana leaf. The dishes are served in a clockwise direction, in odd numbers. Each spicy dish is interspersed with a subtly flavoured dish to cool the system. Spicy dishes give way to the piquancy of a sour tamarind curry. Hence, there is a progression of flavours and this gives the diner an unforgettable gastronomic experience.

The traditional Chettinad dishes mostly use locally sourced spices like kalpasi (stone flower), fennel seeds, Marathi moggu and pepper that impart a unique flavour. The adoption of foreign techniques for preservation, including sun drying for meat and vegetables, pickling in brine, has enriched their culinary repertoire.

The aachis oversee the careful roasting and grinding of spices, in stone grinders, and chopping of vegetables with aruvamanai and every kitchen in a Chettiar home is equipped with olden-day equipment like aatukal, ammikal, yanthiram, ulakkai and kunthani. A typical meal includes a varuval like baby potato roast, a kootu (lentil curry), urundai, masiyal (mash), mandi (curry), kolambu like paruppu urundai kulambu, rasam, dangar chutney which are served with rice and palagaarams (appam or paniyaram). 

The famous non-vegetarian dishes include nandu rasam, mutton uppukari, chicken pepper masala, kadai roast. Surprisingly, there is no such dish called Chettinad chicken as it is an adaptation of their pepper chicken. Multiple traditional sweets like ukkarai, payasam, kavuniarisi and Butler desserts like bread and butter pudding and mousse provide a sweet ending to a Chettinad feast.

Vazhappoo/Saiva meen kolambu

Tadka
Mustard seeds: 1/2 tsp
Urad dal: 1/2 tsp
Fenugreek seeds and fennel seeds: 1/2 tsp each, Gingelly oil: 3 tbsp
 Paste
Coconut: 3 tbsp
Cashews: 6

Ingredients 
Banana flower: 1 bunch, Besan: 3 tbsp
Rice flour: 1 tbsp
Baking soda: 1 pinch
Shallots: 10, Garlic: 10
Tomato: 2
Tamarind: 1 marble-sized
Chilli powder:  1 tsp
Coriander powder: 2 tsp, Turmeric: 1/2tsp

Clean the banana flower and boil it for three minutes. Make a batter with besan, rice flour, salt, baking soda and chilli powder. Dip flowers into the batter for two seconds and fry till they turn golden. Heat oil and add the tadka ingredients and then add the curry leaves and garlic. After a minute, add shallots, green chilli and saute. Add tomatoes, dry spice powders and fry till the oil separates. Now, add the tamarind water, salt and cook for five minutes. Add the coconut paste and cook for five more minutes. Remove from the flame, add the fried flowers and serve after 10 minutes with hot rice.

The Chutney chronicles

Chhattisgarh
The kai or chapra chutney, made by crushing red weaver ants, is a staple among the tribal community of Chhattisgarh. In the Mayurbhanj region, these ants are found in abundance. They are collected, dried, and ground into a mix, blending ingredients like tomatoes, coriander, garlic, ginger, chilli, salt and a touch of sugar. The chutney, which comes in a vibrant orange paste, is renowned for its intense heat and spice. “It is hot, but it is absolutely delicious,” celebrity chef Gordon Ramsey remarked after trying the chutney on his visit to India. Since then, this chutney has gained a lot of attention from all corners of the world.

Around the world in a hundred dishes

Nikhil Bhatia, chef-in-charge of Edesia, says, “Granita is basically frozen fruits. Fruits are cut into pieces, frozen overnight, and then the ice shavings are collected in a cup to make granita.” While the name sounds unfamiliar, the dessert is prepared by chuski makers from around India, in the much familiar chuski machines.

Spice, and all things nice

World history was made by spices. The clamour for these now-uniquitous ingredients in Europe led to the quest for the elusive sea passage to the Indies, with everybody from the Portuguese to the Venetians throwing their hats into the ring to find a way to get their hands on the precious pepper, cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg that grew in the East. It was the demand for spices that fuelled colonialism.

While these condiments may not overturn kingdoms and be the incentive for expensive voyages to far-flung corners of the globe any longer, they are still important. Some, like saffron or vanilla, are precious commodities even in monetary terms; but nearly all—even the humble coriander, cumin or turmeric, so casually tossed into our food and drink—have a value that cannot be denied. Take the spice away from food, and it loses more than just flavour: it loses its zing.

Much-acclaimed chef Vikas Khanna sets out to examine this world in Ceremony of Aromas. Beginning with black pepper and going all the way to vanilla, the spices in this book are arranged in alphabetical order, each chapter devoted to one spice. Each chapter begins with a one-page introduction to the herb. How it’s processed, used and, wherever pertinent, something about its significance in history, literature, etc. This aspect of the book, however, is a little dry, and not particularly well-written.

In contrast, for instance, to Marryam H Reshii’s engrossing 2017 book, The Flavour of Spice, the information here is scanty, superficial and not intriguing. The text often skips jerkily from one topic to another, sometimes repeating facts and, at other times, providing only desultory and mundane information. Khanna’s deeply personal introduction to the book itself (in which he talks of his childhood fascination with spices, so much so that it got him dubbed the masala chor at home) is missing from these sections: these are impersonal, with nothing of the chef’s own insights.

On the other hand, the eye-catching introductory photograph for each chapter, showing the progression across the stages of a spice—from shoot through green leaf to dried leaf; from bud to flower to seedpod, for instance—is creatively done and offers an interesting approach to the ingredient in question.

While the introductions may not be particularly riveting, the recipes that follow make up for that lack. Each chapter consists of some seven or eight recipes, proceeding in order from appetisers through main courses, drinks and even desserts. Each is accompanied by a full-page, well-styled photograph, and is a good reflection of Khanna’s status as a leading chef of a global table. The cuisines range from East Asian to Mediterranean, Indian to modern fusion.

For those who might expect a book on spices, by an Indian chef at that, to be heavy on local recipes, Ceremony of Aromas can be an eye-opener. Yes, there are familiar items here, but they are relatively few, and they often come with an unexpected twist. The beetroot poriyal has an addition of cherry tomatoes; the strawberry kulfi—already avant garde—comes with a surprising spice element included in the mix: crushed coriander seeds.

These surprises, unusual but oddly appropriate, appear in many of the other, non-Indian, dishes as well. A yuzu and maple pan-seared chicken, for instance, has the oil infused with cloves. A frittata, besides the rather unique presence of ripe peaches, has tart mango powder (aamchoor, as it’s known in Hindi) added to it. A rice pudding scented with star anise also includes apricots and chickpeas.

What really stands out in these recipes is the way Khanna melds creativity with simplicity. These are not the sort of dishes that break the bank and are best suited to a kitchen brigade with a slew of fancy equipment at its disposal. As the author mentions in one recipe, “I enjoy entertaining when I can get maximum flavour with minimum effort”, and this is the credo that seems to govern most of these recipes: not too many ingredients, no fancy cooking, but solid flavours and good food. True, some ingredients (Chioggia beets, sandalwood extract, pineberries, et al) may not be easily available for Indian readers, but on the whole, this is a collection of recipes that would appeal to any food enthusiast across the world. It’s doable, it’s different, and it is, all said and done, a worthy tribute to the spices that have shaped our world.

Is the Butter Chicken overrated? Did it need the grand dispute it is embroiled in?

Butter Chicken has been in the news ever since sections of Indian and foreign media reported a legal spat between two claimants of its invention. Many food historians and butter chicken aficionados waded into the troubled curry, some smelling a gravy train in the event of the court calling for witnesses or expert opinion. But for someone like me, who as per his own confession is not a chicken lover, the entire episode is picking bones out of tomato puree.

Butter Chicken is overrated. Meat uplifts the character of a preparation through a combination of its own juices and by imbibing the flavours of the ingredients. Adding meat simply for its texture or to provide protein mass to the mix is a waste. If that is the intention one might as well dump sponge balls into a thick gravy a la “Veg Manchurian”. Even paneer does a better job because it at least allows some of the seasoning to seep into it. Therefore, any good meat preparation cannot be made without hours of martination and then cooking it in the masala before finishing it. In Butter Chicken the meat and the sauce never quite meld. One could as well pour ketchup and cream over boiled pieces of chicken with some Tabasco or Sriracha to get a similar effect. To say the Britishers have made it iconic means trifle little because they don’t understand food.

The best Chicken Curries according to me are thin. Keeping aside the divine Bengali “Murgir Jhol” and its other Eastern India cousins made with a light touch of turmeric and red chillies – my favourite is the Malvani Kombdi Rassa. The medley of Konkani spices and coconut onion paste makes it distinctive. Further up the North East, I love the use of black sesame which acts with the chicken’s (usually unskinned) own fat to create magic. Down South I find the dry chicken preparations – such as the Pepper Fry – interesting as it captures the essence of black pepper corns and Kari leaves into the meat.

Raising the bar: Goa’s newest high-energy space 'Barfly'

Cracking the code to Goa’s pulsating food and beverage space is no mean feat. A few years ago, entrepreneurs Karrtik Dhingra, siblings Tarun and Bipin Sibal, and Shyaam Khurana broke the convention with Titlie Goa, a popular beachfront culinary bar synonymous with collaborative cuisine and craft cocktails. The same team is now back with a new offering—Barfly—in the popular neighbourhood of Assagao in north Goa.

“The term ‘barfly’ typically refers to an individual who frequents a bar to socialise over drinks,” says Karrtik. Indeed, the name is fitting for a space set in an expansive 150-year-old Portuguese-Goan bungalow that marries old-world charm with a contemporary aesthetic. Prepare to surprise yourself with its storytelling, perfectly articulated through its fusion of cultures and ingredients. There are inter-connected rooms that complement different moods—a space for lazy indulgences of a lingering meal, a wine room for connoisseurs, a romantic spotlit by candles perfect for couples, glass-roofed dining spaces, wide verandas that take you back in time, and more.

Bipin Sibal, Tarun Sibal, Karrtik Dhingra and Shyaam Khurana

The centrepiece at Barfly are its two bars: the Agave Bar, and the Tales from the Villa: Elevated Classics. Both offer concoctions designed by Vikram Achanta of Tulleeho, a leading beverage training and education platform. The agave bar is a first-of-its-kind in Goa, inspired by the growing trend of tequila, mezcal and agave spirits across the world. Its menu is experimental but rewarding, with beverages like the El Gusano that fuses smoky mezcal with the rich depth of bourbon and clarified watermelon, topped with a dash of soy. Caprese is another intriguing option that offers a ‘salad in a glass experience’—a combination of reposado, cherry tomatoes and basil left overnight. “From the sheer quality of the liquid, its versatility to its premium nature, the agave spirit category has a lot to offer,” shares chef-entrepreneur Tarun.

If agave is rather experimental for the palate, there’s the charming Tales from the Villa bar that is a nod to classics, albeit with a twist. Here, one can savour the Caramel Milk Punch, a delightful reinterpretation of a classic libation infused with the richness of caramel. Negroni lovers can sample the Melon Negroni that infuses Bulldog gin with green melons. “Today, Goa stands as a melting pot of cultures where traditions intertwine with modernity. We elevate classic cocktails with modern techniques, inspired by multiple stories,” reiterates Tarun.

Barfly facade

The eclectic cocktail menu pairs well with Barfly’s food guided by the creative direction of chefs Tarun and Viraf Patel. It focuses on continental fare, incorporating European flavours, and a touch of mainland America alongside the nuances from the southern hemisphere. Relish the mouthwatering sourdough tartines with combinations like avocado, goat cheese, guava compote, greens and lime, followed by salads to small plates like the seafood ajillo and the hummus with French onion glaze and whole wheat pita. For mains, large plates like the lobster bisque fettucini, barley risotto with seasonal vegetables are comforting. Unlike many bars, Barfly has a dessert menu with six options. The Bananamisu is definitely something one shouldn’t miss.

There’s more in the offing. Come October Barfly plans to open the Sunday Graze—a large communal table for grazing that’s perfect for indulgent brunches. 

The big cheese of gurugram

George Bernard Shaw had said with his typical Irish sense of humour: “There is no love more sincere than the love of food.” It certainly was the case for the original Gurgaon Foodie, founder and marketing professional, Aalok Wadhwa. Soon, he was joined by former banker Shefali Saxena and marketing professional Shivendu Mittal, and the group, as we now know it, was formed.

Their collective effort led to the growth of Gurgaon Foodie, a private Facebook group of food ‘critics’, cooks, enthusiasts, diners and followers. Members come together often — on Facebook and off it — since 2012, and have lively conversations and interventions on matters culinary. It has drawn people from outside Gurugram as well.

Manisha Mukherji’s Chicken Kalimirch

Since then, the group has come a long way. Initially, the group rated eateries in the vicinity of their homes. As its member population became more diverse, the scope of the group’s restaurant ‘reviews’ began to spread across the whole country. “We call it reviews now, it wasn’t a review when we started,” says Mittal.

“If somebody went to a nice place to eat and wanted others to know about it, they would start talking about it. People would question them in the comments and the discussion would revolve around that particular eatery,” he adds. They also celebrated milestones of the group. From a group of a hundred members in the first few days, it currently boasts of nearly 90,000 members on Facebook.

The group does have a lot to celebrate, setting an example in living well, and are certainly not shy of putting up videos and photos, almost on a daily basis, of what they are putting on their plate. Gyaneshwari Sharma, a homemaker who joined the group in 2019, says the group’s popularity is due to its dedication to building a community as it is to review restaurants.

“Food is at the centre of the group but there is also a beautiful community feel to it. I meet fellow foodies regularly and we enjoy our discussions on food,” she says. However, what she loves most about the group is its way of functioning. “All Gurgaon Foodie events are paid for. We don’t believe in eating free food. Only if a restaurant or an establishment wishes to host the top contributors, do we have everything on the house,” she explains.

Not critics, learners
Yet, most members of the group refuse to be called critics. They say they have no food ideologies. Most joined the group to learn about great food options and to pen their thoughts on what they ate and where in Delhi-NCR and around the world.

A kind of consumer writing back on food they were served, what they liked, what they didn’t. It has members from different walks of life – bankers to homemakers — and on the FB page, opinion is free. It is not uncommon to find that a majority opinion about a culinary experience, whether in a restaurant or at home, has been dissed by another member.

Sometimes they also re-review a restaurant to revisit an earlier opinion. Or look back at the city they may have come from, whose food they now recreate in their kitchens. The group is also a place for budding chefs. Durba Ray, a top contributor, says she regularly follows the social media accounts of celebrity chefs like Nigella Lawson, Marion Gats by, Ranveer Brar and Sanjeev Kapoor “to see if they have posted any new recipes. Then, I try to recreate them in my own kitchen and post on the group”.

At a Gurgaon Foodie event

Foodie awards
The group is guided by a democratic spirit. The opinion of the members matter. Its founders thought the best way to honour the popular choices would be to present them with an award – and thus started the Gurgaon Foodie awards in April, 2015. There are separate nominations for restaurants, bakeries and cafés. Contributors, too , are awarded on the basis of popular choice.

Incidentally, Gyaneshwari Sharma won the Top Contributor Award— a certificate that can be displayed virtually and physically— for 2022, for her consistent contribution to the group. Which restaurant gets which position is not just up to the founding members. The eateries which get mentioned the most in the year are nominated and an open poll in the FB group decides the winners.

Recent joinee Manisha Mukherji says reviews posted on the group gets noticed throughout Delhi-NCR, Ghaziabad, Faridabad and Noida. “Such is the influence of Gurgaon Foodie that I have seen restaurants owning up to negative reviews,” she says with a touch of pride. Ray says that she was shocked to find fans of her contributions in Bengaluru.

“I was at an event in Bengaluru when a few people came up to me and said that they follow my posts on Gurgaon Foodie. I know that there are some fans overseas too!” she says. As the group gears up for Gurgaon Foodie Awards 2023, scheduled to be held in January 2024, not only the members but the restaurants in Delhi-NCR too, wait with bated breath to know the results. But the competition is not too intense. After all, it is all for the love of food!

Just dough it

On the outskirts of Ahmedabad is a 35,000 sq ft factory that since last year has been open to visitors. But 2023, is an extra special year for the 250- odd member team of The Baker’s Dozen. “We celebrate a decade this year,” says founder Aditi Handa who set up the operation with her husband Sneh Jain. They started with four bakers and a small kitchen in Mumbai back in 2013. And have since, expanded their vision with a menu that covers everything from pav to pizza bases to sandwich bread, made with the goodness of sourdough; apart from cookies, crackers, dips and nut butter. We get a taste of some of the hot-sellers on the list like the focaccia made with farm-fresh cherry tomatoes before we get our white aprons on for the much-awaited tour.

Inside, we find ourselves navigating through a series of rooms that line up the steps of the preparation process.

Knead to know
First up, a holding room where raw materials are stored and a basic quality check needs to be passed. Then, we head to a ‘raw materials store’ where a myriad of flours (brown rice, jowar, whole wheat and ragi) are being measured, sifted and scaled to match specific recipes. In the chiller, there is a fresh stock of sunflower seeds that will be kneaded into a batch of multigrain loaves later in the day. “We also keep some ingredients in colour- coded crates to avoid allergies,” explains Akansha, our tour guide.

She points at a rack that has an assortment of nuts and interestingly, egg powder. “We found handling eggs quite a tedious process between the washing and the possibility of chipped shells, and so we made a switch to egg powder. The taste is just as good and it’s a whole lot more convenient,” Aditi elaborates, giving us an insight into one of the many nuances of what makes for a smootly-running operation. 

Window for change 
We enter the bread and pastry rooms which have rows of men and women who have perfected the art of kneading and shaping. Here we discover a fascinating phenomenon called the ‘window pane’ test. You take a piece of dough between your hands and stretch it into a square. The centre should look almost transparent, much like looking through a window. If the dough cracks, that means the gluten threads are too weak and more kneading is required. Try as we might, our window is turning out to be the biggest ‘pane’. Yes, winning dough that comes with a window is a product of both skill and patience. We hope we’ll fare better at the croissant section, next.

“Use the side of your palm,” we are instructed as we knead. “Now fold the dough on either side like an envelope.” Sweating under our hair net, we try a few times to take our uneven-looking creation to elevated French elegance. While mastery is not achieved in a minute, it does feel wonderful to create something with your hands. Notably, frequent hand washes are required in this section but gloves are not a mandate. “Gloves offer a false sense of security,” Aditi says when we ask her why. “And everything dies at 240 degrees C,” she assures us.

Fresh out of the oven
As you have probably guessed, the air in the room after this is substantially hotter as we are in the oven room. To speed up the cooling process, Aditi tells us that the brand has invested in a vacuum cooling chamber so that cakes and breads that would normally take over four hours to cool, are now ready in a matter of 20 minutes. If you’re wondering why the cooling process is so important, try slicing your bread scalding hot out of the oven and you will find that instead of neat spongy slices, you will be left with a pile of crumbs.

Our final stop on the tour is the packaging and dispatch room where a fresh batch of chocolate cookies is being wrapped and sealed in a matter of minutes. Big on innovation as always, Aditi tells us about a unique process implemented here as well to increase the shelf life of their baked goods. “We call it Modified Atmosphere Packaging or MAP, it reduces the oxygen inside each pack, meaning our cakes can last for three months and our cookies for nine,” she says impressively. Now you know where to stock up for those midnight cravings any time of year.

Go Sustainable
Earlier this month, the brand announced that it has begun on a journey towards sustainability with the aim to reduce its carbon footprint by 10 to 15 per cent by the end of this financial year. Apart from optimising delivery routes to reduce emissions, there is also a focus on achieving plastic neutrality by recycling the equivalent amount of plastic it uses, a release said.

—Sonali Shenoy
sonali @newindianexpress.com @brightasunshine

Savour the Flavours

HYDERABAD: The City of Pearls, known for its rich history, culture, and of course, its delectable cuisine, has welcomed a new culinary gem to its gastronomic scene. Dum Maaro Dum, the latest multicuisine restaurant, located in the bustling Gachibowli neighbourhood, offers a culinary journey that transcends borders.

The menu at Dum Maaro Dum is a testament to the creativity and innovation of its culinary team led by Chef Salam. From Indian classics with a modern twist to international dishes with a quirky touch, the restaurant caters to a wide range of palates. Whether you’re a fan of aromatic Kolkata Special Biryani, or crave the comfort of Italian pasta, Dum Maaro Dum has something for everyone. 

The restaurant’s interior is a perfect blend of contemporary design and traditional elements. Warm earthy tones create an inviting and cozy atmosphere, all thanks to its owner Subhasree Mukherjee, an IT professional. Talking about how it all began, Subhasree says, “Both my husband and I are passionate about food and wanted to venture into this industry. After planning for a long time we came up with a small cafe specialising in Bengali cuisine at Kukatpally a year back.

But as the place was small, we wanted to get a bigger dining space. We searched for a suitable location keeping in mind our clientele and our commutation and that’s how Gachibowli happened. At our new outlet, we have diversified from keeping only Bengali food to  continental and Mughlai along with mocktails.”

While we made our way to the restaurant on a sultry afternoon, we were greeted by the ever-smiling Rejina Gazi, Executive Manager. We started our dining experience with the DMD Special Drink called Blue Sea. Next came Murgh Banjara Kebab with keema stuffing. The succulent kebab was moist and tender, while the keema stuffing and spicy. From the continental menu, we chose the Durban Chicken Sizzler served with Spaghetti. Both the spaghetti and the chicken pieces were full off flavours. Last but not least, we treated our taste buds to Authentic Bengali Mutton Biryani. The burst of aroma and flavours made it an apt ending to our food journey.                

Whether you’re a seasoned foodie or just looking to explore new tastes, this restaurant is a must-visit for anyone seeking a diverse and memorable dining experience in the heart of the IT corridor.

Unique blends for tea enthusiasts

The tea blends encompass a wide spectrum, including oolong tea, white tea, and green tea, infused with an array of herbs such as tulsi, lavender, hibiscus, flowers, and spices. As the name suggests, most of their teas do not contain milk. Alongside their authentic teas, you’ll find a wide range of other options like iced tea and the popular bubble teas, for milk tea lovers the distinctive Saffron Milk Tea, Caramel Cardamom Milk Tea and Lemongrass Milk Tea will render a new experience. But it’s not just about tea; their menu extends to a delightful array of continental and Italian dishes like burgers, sandwiches, pastas, and loaded fries and many more.

Vegetarian delights

Vegetarian Haleem
Gaurang’s Kitchen’s Vegetarian Haleem is a revelation, particularly during the sacred month of Ramadan. Traditionally, haleem is a dish celebrated by meat enthusiasts, leaving vegetarians curious about the fuss. Chef Meet Shah, however, cracked the code and unveiled a vegetarian version that not only stands toe-to-toe with its meaty counterpart but also has a distinct charm of its own. Made using beaten soya, this vegetarian haleem boasts a texture and flavour profile that has been endorsed even by die-hard carnivores. This Vegetarian Haleem transcends expectations, proving that innovation and tradition can beautifully coexist on a plate.

Kanji kronicles

KOCHI: The humble dish kanji has always been a global dish. In England, it is porridge made of oats and in China, it is called congee, or more accurately zhou in Mandarin and juk in Cantonese. Russians have kasha made of buckwheat. And Italians consume polenta made of cornmeal.

The kanji has adapted to various cultures and climates throughout history. Though basic and easy to prepare, it is a wholesome dish and rich in nutrients. Kanji can be sweet or savoury and can be paired with literally any side dish. The most important characteristic is that the kanji itself is cost effective which is often crucial for people living in areas where resources are limited.

The porridge, historians say, evolved among agricultural societies that practised grain cultivation starting from the Neolithic period. However, the modern-day western oats porridge originated in medieval Scotland. The Scottish porridge is prepared by gently boiling oat flakes in water or milk, with a touch of butter and a final pinch of salt.

And slowly it evolved into a common breakfast dish often sweetened with sugar or honey. Several toppings like fresh fruits, granola,dry fruits, chia seeds and many more are added to enhance the taste of it.
Not just Scotland, in Switzerland too, people found solace in oatmeal porridge amid the harsh winters.

This filling and easy-to-prepare dish became a lifeline for farmers and their horses navigating the Alpine peaks, battling the cold.In Kerala, the kanji is prepared by boiling rice with water and adding a pinch of salt.

From pickle to pappadam and fish fry, anything can accompany a plate of hot kanji. However, nothing comes close to cherupayar or moong bean. And in Kerala, it has been a dietary mainstay for generations often consumed as a main course, particularly for dinner.

Then there is the legendary soul food, ‘pazhankanji’ made from left over rice soaked overnight in water at room temperature. It is paired with thick curd, a fiery green chili and coconut chammandhi.Crushed shallots and pickle makes it heavenly. It is a powerhouse of nutrients, can cool the body from scorching heat and serve as perfect energy boost.

Then, there is the ‘palkanji’, where milk replaces the water base and gives it a creamy texture.During the Malayalam month of Karkkidakam, the monsoon season, a medicinal kanji is prepared with several ayurvedic herbs. The dish is said to boost immunity, overcome fatigue and prevent diseases like fever and diarrhoea.

During Ramzan, devotees prepare ‘Nombu kanji’ cooked in coconut milk  by adding spices like turmeric, ginger, pepper and onion.A sweeter version called ‘Thari kanji’ is prepared with rava, ghee and roasted dry fruits, and is often served during Iftar.

People around the world have embraced the varieties of porridge, experimenting with grains, fruits, nuts, and spices.Although the modern generation chases the distinctive tastes of fast food, kanji will continues to hold its place in the hearts of Malayalis.

Culinary musings

HYDERABAD: The rich tapestry of global cuisine often faces dilution in the fast-paced demands of modern life. However, a dynamic mother and daughter duo from Hyderabad, India have embarked on a flavourful journey to the United States with their innovative start-up, Podi Life. Alaknanda and her mother, Vasavi, are on a mission to introduce the authentic and versatile tastes of South India to a global audience.

For many Indians living abroad, the longing for the familiar flavours of home can be a constant companion. Despite their best efforts to recreate traditional dishes, something always seems to be missing. Alaknanda, born in Warangal and raised in Hyderabad, understands this sentiment all too well. Even with her various degrees and work experience across multiple continents and industries, her heart remained tethered to her roots and the rich culinary heritage of South India.

While residing in France, Alaknanda found herself captivated by the French food culture and nurturing her curiosity about all aspects of South Indian cuisine. It was during the pandemic in 2020 that Alaknanda and her mother spent eight months together in their Hyderabad apartment, discussing their shared passion for food and their cultural legacy. The outcome of this discussion is “Podi Life,” which was initially launched as a pandemic project in India and later expanded to the US, where it found resounding support.

Starting a business, especially one inspired by a rich cultural history, is no simple task. Alaknanda and Vasavi had to navigate regulatory, packaging, and labelling issues. Embracing the name “Podi” instead of a generic seasoning required a focus on education and fostering pride in their work. They’re not just selling a product; they’re sharing a piece of South India’s culinary soul.

A unique feature of Podi Life is Alaknanda’s curiosity in documenting her mother’s recipes. They bridge generations through their partnership, showcasing Vasavi’s culinary skills. Vasavi, who primarily focuses on the ingredients used in their products, is deeply concerned with quality.

For Podi Life, it’s not just about selling products; they believe in building a community. Collaborations and events play a crucial role in spreading the word for Podi Life. They encourage customers to use podis in their own creative ways because there’s no one “authentic” way to enjoy them.

Podi Life’s flagship product is a range of fresh, heirloom, small-batch podis (powders) re-imagined for modern gourmands. They are currently working on millets and heritage rices, reflecting Alaknanda’s familial ties to rice cultivation. What makes Podi Life unique is their multi-generational viewpoint on food, a superpower that resonates with their growing Instagram audience.

Looking ahead, Alaknanda and Vasavi aspire for Podi Life to become a household condiment and seasoning across the US, transcending its South Indian origins.

Pen to pan: A cuisine keeper’s tale

A cuisine apart

As her career as an author soared, Kumar was approached by renowned hotels and restaurants to teach their chefs.

Kumar points out that there are two streams of this cuisine. One came about during the time of the British Raj and the other was innovated by bawarchis. “We embrace the European rolls and cutlets and are also fond of rice and curry. Anglo-Indian food is comfort food, neither too spicy nor too heavy, but simple and tasty,” she says.

The cuisine has a subtle taste, with its unique flavours and judicious use of spices that are not compromised on. Not every spice is used in every dish, and nothing is used in excess but in the right amount. “If you are using two teaspoons of chilli powder in your curry, we would use maybe a three-quarter to one teaspoon only,” says Kumar, explaining what makes this cuisine stand apart.

Kumar believes that every cuisine should be preserved because the food that is cooked today is itself a fusion. The authenticity of most of the traditional food is being lost, she says. “If not, there will come a time when you will be searching for food that was cooked in your home that is not available,” she signs off.

ANGLO-INDIAN PEPPER CHICKEN

(A timeless dish of chicken either boneless or on the bone, simmered in a pepper sauce and sautéed with sliced onions and slit green chillies)

Ingredients

Chicken cut into medium size pieces: 1 kg

Onions (Large, sliced finely): 3

Green chillies (Slit lengthwise): 2

Pepper powder: 2 tsp

Turmeric powder: 1 tsp

Oil: 2 tsp, Salt to taste

Method

Heat oil in a pan and fry the onions lightly.

Add the chicken and mix in the pepper powder, turmeric powder and salt. Fry till the pieces firm up.

Add ½ cup of water and cook on low heat till the chicken is tender and semi-dry. Simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally till the chicken gets a shiny colour.

Alternatively, the chicken can be parboiled

with a little water and then added to the sautéed onions and pepper.

BRINJAL VINDALOO (AUBERGINE / EGGPLANT VINDALOO)

(The non-vegetarian version of vindaloo is usually made with pork or meat. The tangy, sweet, taste with a hint of spice is just the right combination with either steamed rice or any flavoured rice. It goes well with rotis, chapattis or bread too.)

Ingredients

Seedless brinjal (Large): 1

Onion (chopped finely): 2

Chilli powder: 2 tsp

Turmeric powder: ½ tsp

Ginger-garlic

paste: 2 tsp

Cumin powder: 1 tsp

Tomato juice/puree: ½ cup

Cinnamon: 2 pieces

Vinegar: 2 tbsp, Sugar: 1 tsp

Salt to taste, Oil: 3 tbsp

Potato (boiled and peeled and cut into quarters): 2

Method

Cut the brinjal into medium-sized pieces and soak in a bowl of water to which a pinch of salt has been added.

Heat oil in a pan and sauté the onions till golden brown. Add the ginger-garlic paste and cinnamon and fry for some time. Now, add the chilli powder, cumin powder, turmeric powder, sugar and tomato puree and fry till the oil separates from the mixture.

Add the cut brinjal, vinegar and a little water and simmer till the gravy is sufficiently thick and the brinjal is cooked. Do not overcook the brinjal.

Add in the boiled potatoes and mix gently. Let it rest for 15 minutes so that the potatoes draw in the flavour.

Garnish with 2 slit green chillies only (No coriander leaves to garnish)

Serve with rice or chapatti.

A Royal Culinary Tour

Bringing the best of these two worlds is the ongoing food fest, ‘The Great Indian Odyssey’ at Avenue Regent on MG Road, Kochi. Upon entering the space, staff, donning multi-coloured pagaris (turban), welcomes one to the buffet, arranged neatly on one side. Executive sous chef Biju K K is visibly excited to have introduced the culinary culture of both places to Kochi. “Both places can cater to the taste palates of vegetarians and non-vegetarians. When Hyderbadi boasts rich non-veg dishes, Rajasthani tops with the intricacies of the desert state’s homely food,” says chef Biju.

The taste of transformation

Food is elemental; it is the nourishing essence of life. Yet, its significance extends far beyond mere sustenance. As we marked World Food Day on Monday, Vaishali Vijaykumar brings five inspiring stories of individuals whose lives have been profoundly transformed by the power of food.

Food as an identity

Recently, at a friend’s mehendi ceremony, I relished the most delectable pav bhaji and brownies I have had so far. What made this experience satisfying was learning that these were prepared by 23-year-old Ramanathan and 27-year-old Rupak Rajendra Munje, two individuals with autism who run a small catering business called Buddies’ Kitchen. These young entrepreneurs owe their culinary skills to their training at The CanBridge Academy, a life skills training centre in Thiruvanmiyur, designed for youths with autism.

It all began during the pandemic when their mothers, Subbulakshmi and Ranjana Munje, discovered their sons’ talents. “Ramanathan and Rupak would work in small groups at CanBridge, meticulously handling tasks such as peeling, slicing, and dicing large quantities of vegetables. We stepped in, worked as a team by delivering chopped vegetables to our neighbours, and put their skills to use outside the academy. This modest attempt eventually paved the way for taking on small catering orders,” beam the mothers with pride. Following this, Ramanathan and Rupak have also been interning at Uncle Sam’s Kitchen for the past year.

Sharada Rajaram, who cofounded CanBridge alongside Kavitha Krishnamurthy, is happy that these young men are treated on par with their peers in the kitchen. “It’s an inclusive space where they showcase their abilities, not just through vegetable preparation but also in cooking. Work serves as their source of motivation, and they bring commitment and efficiency to their tasks,” she says.

In addition, they handle catering when they meet as part of the Special Child Assistance Network (SCAN) once a month, and when not at work, they dedicate their time to upskilling at CanBridge.

The boys are non-verbal and are deeply passionate about food, each expressing it uniquely. “They possess a keen sense of taste and are quick to identify missing elements in any dish. Their enthusiasm, inquisitiveness, and heightened awareness enables them to handle tasks independently, even as simple as brewing a cup of tea,” explains Sharada.

Rupak and Ramanathan’s journey has defied expectations and inspires people. Their next step is to gradually scale the business. The team’s message to society and parents of children with disabilities is clear. “Society must take responsibility for supporting families with children with disabilities, and parents should encourage their children to step out of their comfort zones. Their potential will surprise you.”

Food for a cause

On October 15, the YMCA Convention Centre was the stage for a remarkable gathering of food enthusiasts, all thanks to ‘Moi Virunthu’, an initiative by Help On Hunger foundation. For the fourth consecutive year, this Chennai-based NGO hosted a grand event on World Food Day to raise awareness about its mission to eradicate hunger.

Speaking about this year’s vision, Allen Samuel, an entrepreneur and the founder of the NGO, says, “Moi Virunthu draws its inspiration from a long-standing traditional practice. The feast is to crowdsource funds to feed the underprivileged. Each ticket, following the ‘eat to feed’ concept, is priced at `500. This not only allows individuals to savour veg and chicken biryani by Jaffer Bhai but also enables them to provide sustenance for seven homeless people.”

The roots of Help on Hunger trace back to the moment when Allen observed homeless individuals knocking on doors for food during the pandemic. Moved by this, Allen and his wife began offering homemade meals. What began as 20 meal packets per day soon grew tenfold.

Registered as an NGO in July 2021, Help on Hunger has flourished into a team of 73 dedicated volunteers who distribute approximately 350-400 food packets across 200 locations within the city. All contributions are transparent, and the food they provide to the homeless is the same quality they eat at home, including chapati, idli, and rice. It’s prepared at their centralised kitchen in Thoraipakkam. Their largest donation, a sum of `2,575, came from a flower vendor who wanted to make a difference.

The team has extended its reach by providing grocery kits to the Irular communities around Chennai, arranging milk cards for families in Kannagi Nagar, and adopting 175 members of leper settlements near Chengalpattu. They even introduced a breakfast scheme at a school in Tiruchy to address malnutrition among the children of salt pan workers, leading to improved attendance, reduced dropout rates, and enhanced nutrition for their families.

Allen’s primary goal is to eliminate hunger by providing dignified meals, which they’ve calculated to cost `35 per meal. With a track record of feeding over 2.87 lakh people, they are unwavering in their commitment to eradicating hunger. “I’m able to sleep peacefully at night because someone, somewhere has not gone to sleep hungry,” he sums up.

Food as a healer

On September 21, Sreya Vittaldev shared a reel about noodle bowls on her Instagram page @darthdevi, a topic familiar to her followers, but not the story behind the post itself. The description’s opening line read “Trigger Warning: domestic abuse, eating disorders, unhealthy romantic relationships.” What followed in the comments section were words of admiration, as her followers recognised the immense courage it took for Sreya to share her vulnerabilities with the virtual world.

As a chef and marketing consultant in the F&B industry, based in Bengaluru, Sreya’s perspective on food goes beyond the ordinary; she sees it as a form of therapy. In the absence of a safe emotional haven in close relationships, cooking allowed Sreya to reflect on her thoughts and find inner support. Discussing her post, she shares, “Noodle bowls hold a special place in my heart because I initially made them to please my former partner, who was abusive. It was our only connection in our relationship. I stopped making them after ending the relationship, as it’d trigger traumatic memories and haunting voices in my head. The defining moment in my healing journey was when I started cooking noodle bowls again. I’d remind myself that I was making it for me and me alone, drowning out those painful voices.”

Describing the empowerment she derives from food, she remarks, “Creating and enjoying our own meals is an act of defiance. We’re telling the world, ‘Hey, I had a tough day, but I won’t let it stop me from making this comforting bowl of rasam and potato rice’. I may be sad, but I’ll cook and nourish myself because I want to be there for myself in every possible way, even if it’s a simple meal.”

For individuals struggling with eating disorders and body shaming, Sreya reiterates, “Remember that no one has the right to comment on your body, especially in romantic relationships. If you find yourself in a toxic relationship, consider leaving because it can harm your relationship with yourself and with food. We must eat for ourselves and the body we have, not the one we wish for. Seek guidance from a certified nutritionist, and surround yourself with a close-knit community that supports you.”

Food for justice

G Rajalakshmi’s journey unfolds as a compelling narrative of her community’s steadfast determination to safeguard Pulicat, and they’ve harnessed the power of food as their weapon of choice. The women have been using their culinary legacy to raise awareness about the imminent external dangers encroaching upon their wetlands due to the Adani port expansion.

Their journey began three years ago at the Pulicat Seafood Festival in 2020, held as part of Chennai Kalai Theru Vizha. The women whipped up a seafood thaali named ‘Pazhaverkadu Meen Virunthu’, featuring beloved dishes from the age-old Pulicat cuisine. Since then, Rajalakshmi has not missed an opportunity to talk about the richness of her town and its food. A resident of Konankuppam near Pulicat, she has been educating the public, sharing recipes over phone calls with people from Chennai and giving interviews on YouTube.

She passionately shares, “Shrimp vadas, Kaanan Keluthi puttu (made using mackerels), era karukkal… our cuisine is a treasure closely held within the fishing community. These are made using species found in local waters, many of which remain unknown to urban dwellers. They are tasty and nutritious.”

Rajalakshmi, a key member of Meenava Kootamaippu Magalir Sangam, does more than just sell fish and flour from her home to support her family; she actively engages in various social and community-centric initiatives. As she reflects, “In the past, the participation of women would have been met with disapproval. Today, women are at the forefront of every battle. What better weapon than food? We may lack formal education, but food has given us the opportunity to become self-reliant. We are determined to use this power to create a positive impact in our society.”

The women of Pulicat are eager to take part in more food festivals to engage with the public directly. They are resilient, refusing to surrender in the face of adversity.

Food for empowerment

In 2006, L Rohini Perera’s family, from Pesalai village in Mannar Town, Sri Lanka, found themselves relocated to Rameshwaram along with 200 other families. A mere 15 days later, Rohini was in a rehabilitation camp in Thoothukudi, facing the daunting task of rebuilding her life. Cut to 2023, after surmounting countless obstacles, Rohini stands as a proud partner of Olai Puttu, a restaurant born from the determination of 12 remarkable women.

As Olai Puttu approaches its first anniversary on October 27, Rohini reminisces, “Last July, our town played host to the Neithal, folk art carnival, initiated by Kanimozhi Karunanidhi, MP for Tuticorin. We seized the opportunity to establish a food stall, which proved a resounding success. Our cuisine, rich in flavours of coconut oil and coconut milk, was embraced by everyone, setting the stage for the restaurant’s grand opening a few months later.”

This traditional Sri Lankan Tamil restaurant represents an initiative dedicated to fostering the self-sufficiency of Sri Lankan Tamil women residing within rehabilitation camps. The venture garners support from the Commissionerate of Rehabilitation and Welfare of Non-Resident Tamils, the Government of Tamil Nadu, the United Nations Refugee Agency, and the Organisation for Eelam Refugee Rehabilitation.

“Women hailing from Thalamuthu Nagar, Thaappaaththi, and Kulaththuvaaipatti were trained by professionals from Advantage Food Pvt Ltd and GRT Hotels to helm a restaurant. We serve an array of dishes, including thothal halwa, samba arisi idiyappam, olai puttu, maasai vada, eral vadai, eral gravy, nandu gravy, kanava fry, chicken kotthu, mutton kotthu, and more. Each dish is crafted in the age-old tradition, free of additives. They reflect the stories of our life back home,” she shares.

This endeavour has given newfound confidence upon the women previously confined within four walls. “We have acquired a sense of self-sufficiency and resilience. The trust placed in us by the community empowers us. I used to run a garment shop, which I had to close during the pandemic. This restaurant symbolises a second chance at life for many like me. We can scale the business with more support,” she notes.

Rohini, who also participated in the two-day Refugee Food Festival, Oorum Unnavum, held in June in Chennai, says, “The people of Chennai have wholeheartedly accepted us and our cuisine. Sri Lankan culture is renowned for nurturing both body and spirit, and that remains our collective mission and vision.”

A paper route to the plate

In the bustling pace of today’s digital world, where the Internet reigns as our all-encompassing resource, there’s a treasure often overlooked — humble handwritten recipes and comforting cookbooks, lovingly preserved within the four walls of our homes. When we immerse ourselves in the measurements and ingredients in these pages, we are surrounded by the culinary wisdom of cooks from the past, the guidance of those in the present, and the enduring legacy of closely guarded family traditions. This intimate connection to our roots cannot be replicated by the sea of recipes available on the web.

Tasty tributes

American writer Laurie Colwin’s quote ‘No one who cooks, cooks alone’ resonates deeply with Sunanda Vasudevan, who is currently pursuing her master’s degree in Graphic Design in Visual Experience in Georgia, USA. She sustains herself with the solace of her grandmother Vijayalakshmi Ranganathan’s self-published cookbook Unavu Vagaigalum, Thayarippu Muraigalum to satiate her cravings for home food.

Sundanda recalls the festival days when their landline would be abuzz with loved ones seeking her grandma’s guidance, who had jotted down the measurements in red and blue ink, safeguarding these heirloom recipes. With a large family and numerous recipe requests, the family meticulously transcribed her handwritten notes into English. This collaboration gave life to the recipes, and they managed to sell more than 1,000 copies. They priced the book at a nominal `60, using the proceeds to support a charitable cause.

“My grandma passed away in her early 70s, but her love knew no bounds. She would personally sign and gift each copy to every new bride with vethalai and paaku, blessing them. My thatha, TA Ranganathan, affectionately known as TAR, worked for the AGS office, and everyone associated that name with the privilege of savouring grandma’s handmade food. Her book is the Bible for our family and friends. To this day, I carry copies with me when I travel abroad,” says Sundanda who feels the closest to her paati when she cooks her recipes.

Echoing a similar feeling is Dhwani Sabesh. Dhwani and her family’s love language has always been food. Recounting a heartwarming family gesture when her maternal grandmother passed away, she says, “We photocopied our Sarasa paati’s recipes and compiled them into a booklet, a cherished memento shared with everyone. These recipes became a part of their beloved paati, forever etching her memory in the hearts and kitchens of the family.” She coauthored Paati’s Rasam, a children’s picture book, with her mother Janaki Sabesh, a well-known actor and storyteller, to drive home the memories and recipes of her culinary showstopper — delicious, piping hot rasam.

Tried and tasted

The charm of cookbooks was more than just the recipes. The tactile experience brought warmth and nostalgia and served as a portal to the past. Now, who knows this better than Sabita Radhakrishna, a food historian and the cookbook author of Annapurni — Heritage Cuisine from Tamil Nadu, Aharam… Traditional Cuisine of Tamil Nadu, Paachakam: Heritage Cuisine of Kerala and more.

At the age of 18, as a young bride, Sabita’s cooking skills were far from proficient. However, she found a lifeline in snail mail, where her mother sent cherished handwritten recipes, bearing the stains of turmeric and love. “Determined to preserve these treasures, I decided to collect and document them. A pivotal moment arrived when UBI Publishing commissioned me to create a cookbook encompassing the traditional cuisines of the four southern states. My mission was clear: to craft a cookbook that was practical, straightforward, and true to the original recipes. I measure my success by the feedback of my readers, young and old,” says Sabita, who painstakingly standardised and tested each recipe to ensure it tasted just as her mother had prepared it. The result was Aharam…Traditional Cuisine of Tamil Nadu, which won the Gourmand award for the category Best Local Cookery Book in India for the year 2002, sparking Sabita’s subsequent writing ventures. Currently, she’s on a mission to document 150 recipes, with the majority being her mother’s tried and tested dishes.

Among the many followers of Sabita’s works is Muhilann Murugan, a pastry shop owner who embarked on his recipe collection journey just three years ago when he received Sabita’s cookbook as a gift. It ignited his culinary passion; offering more than just recipes, it connected him to a community-based cooking experience, where each dish was enriched with stories and tidbits. “What made Sabita amma’s cookbooks truly special was their ability to provide not only ingredients and instructions but also a profound understanding of the technical aspects of cooking, making it an enriching and educational journey. Besides recipes, cookbooks of those days also carry pin kurippugal (tips), random scribbles, and kolams. That’s what makes them truly special and personal. Collecting recipes from loved ones is also a way of maintaining relationships,” explains Muhilann.

Culinary chronicles

Cookbook enthusiasts remain staunch advocates of the enduring authenticity that printed cookbooks have maintained over time, refusing to be drowned out by the constant noise of YouTube videos and Instagram reels.

Aparna Raghavan’s job took her to rural areas. An unexpected but delightful consequence of it was a growing affection for regional cuisine. “My husband and I are avid collectors of cookbooks. We are currently experimenting with Marathi recipes from Pangat, a Feast. Personally, internet recipes don’t appeal to me; cookbooks are reliable, accurate, and lasting. They simplify recipe replication, eliminating the need to juggle multiple versions of the same dish in your mind. Back then, cookbooks were also a way of introducing a family to a cuisine other than its own,” notes Aparna, who remembers her mother compiling recipes from various editions of Ananda Vikatan.

Aparna’s periamma, married to a defence officer, introduced her family to Punjabi cuisine and other north Indian recipes using paneer. “The word ‘authentic’ has lost some of its luster in the modern culinary landscape, diluted by overuse. I go for works by seasoned cooks like Mallika Badrinath and Chef Damu. Sometimes, I’d even try out a recipe or two from the Kindle version of their books and if it works out then it will be a part of my collection. There is always trustworthiness for recipes tried, tested, and perfected over time,” she adds.

In most South Indian households, cookbooks are an intrinsic part of growing up, with seasoned authors like Meenakshi Ammal (Samaithu Paar) and Tarla Dalal providing the foundation for culinary exploration. Dhwani’s love affair with cookbooks began with a thoughtful gift from her best friend, a Nigella Lawson cookbook adorned with postits indicating the must-try recipes. Since then, her collection has grown to a staggering 51 cookbooks. “One of the joys of owning cookbooks is discovering recipes you’d never have stumbled upon online. With vibrant examples like Yotam Ottolenghi’s mango and aubergine salad with soba noodles, cookbooks inspire experimentation and creativity in the kitchen. My friend gifted me a personalised cookbook for my birthday featuring all my comfort foods. That’s my go-to book even now,” she fondly shares.

Cookbooks not only enhance personal cooking but also serve as cultural archives for lesser-known communities. Sumaiya Mustafa, a writer based in Kayalpattinam, emphasises that it’s the intent, rather than the mode of documentation, that truly matters. She highlights how recipes reflect lived experiences, providing insights into the rich history of trade and the fusion of culinary traditions in her coastal town. “Despite the culinary wealth of Tamil Muslims, particularly in Kayalpat t inam, remaining largely undiscovered, there’s a plethora of unexplored recipes beyond the stereotypes of biryani and kebabs. Representation and understanding are crucial to unveil the hidden treasures of this cuisine, often closely guarded within the community. Unfortunately, there aren’t many cookbooks that have our heirloom recipes,” adds Sumaiya, who writes extensively about microcultures and culinary practices and has a keen interest in Indian Ocean history. In a mission to spread the word about her coastal town, she’s been passionately compiling stories about people, food, and the culture of Kayalpattinam on her Instagram page, @readingtv.

Traditionalists like Sabita deem cookbooks essential for those seeking a profound journey into the culinary arts, rigorous research, and the preservation of culinary legacies. Her personal cookbook collection narrates the tale of her lifelong culinary exploration, a passion she eagerly shares with others who appreciate their worth.

As we traverse the everchanging culinary landscape, it’s essential to recognise that not all recipes are foolproof, and there will be successes and failures. Nevertheless, cookbooks will forever maintain a cherished position in the hearts of many, serving as revered custodians of the culinary heritage that enhances our lives.

Local Tastes, Global Palates

In High Spirits

For a long time, India was unfairly judged for producing spirits that used molasses,” says Siddhartha Sharma, founder of Piccadily Distilleries, best-known for producing the Indian Single Malt Whisky, Indri. In 2010, the distillery was launched with the aim of changing this perception. New domestic spirits in a premium category were introduced to cater to a younger demographic. “We embraced this opportunity with an all-Indian team,” says Sharma.

Their vision came to fruition when the Indri Diwali Collector’s Edition 2023 was awarded the ‘Best in Show, Double Gold’ at the prestigious Whiskies of the World Awards last year, which is one of the largest whisky-tasting competitions in the world. It judges over 100 varieties of whiskies from across the globe every year through a rigorous blind tasting over several rounds across categories, by a panel of the top tastemakers and influencers in the alco-bev industry.

The Rampur Distillery has been around since 1943, but it birthed its champion in 2015. Sanjeev Banga, president—international business at Radico Khaitan Ltd., recalls, “We tasted a malt that we all fell in love with. So, we decided to bottle it as RAMPUR Indian Single Malt. In the first year itself, we won the Double Gold at the San Francisco Spirit and Wine Competition.” With seven expressions of RAMPUR available in over 40 countries, this whisky has certainly made a mark among malt connoisseurs and experts.

It’s the only Indian whisky to feature in the ‘Top 100 Premium Wine and Spirits Brands of the World 2023’ by both the Luxury Lifestyle Awards and Wine Enthusiast. The latest feather in its cap is the RAMPUR ASAVA being declared as the ‘Best World Whisky, 2023’ at the Barleycorn Awards, US. Banga says, “Everything that goes into a bottle of RAMPUR is 100 per cent Indian. As we are located in the foothills of the Himalayas, we have access to Himalayan ground water, and its air, soil and fruit plantations which lend a smooth, fruity and floral profile.”

Whilst promoting the malt in Europe, the team awoke to the emerging ‘Gin-aissance’ taking over the globe. They also noticed that though many gin brands used Indian names and botanicals, there was no Indian craft gin in the market. And so was born JAISALMER Indian Craft Gin in 2018. Banga describes this award-winning gin as a triple-distilled spirit, handcrafted in a traditional copper pot in small batches. “The recipe is derived from the ancient Indian knowledge of herbs,” shares Banga. Seven of the 11 botanicals used in the distillation process come from India, including coriander and vetiver, sweet orange peel from central India, cubeb pepper and lemongrass from south India, Darjeeling green tea leaves from the east, and lemon peel from the west. There are also angelica root, liquorice and caraway seeds which add a spicy, anise-tinged flavour. Hence, it was a fitting winner for the ‘Best Gin in Asia’ category at the Ultimate Spirits Challenge, and the ‘Fifty Best, Monde Selection’ at the San Francisco Spirits & Wine Competition.

While it’s one thing to promote a homegrown spirit, it’s entirely another to adopt with pride a heritage liquor. Mahua from Madhya Pradesh is the only spirit in the world that has been distilled from flowers steeped in sugar. The process of making it goes back centuries. It is a practice deeply entrenched in the local culture of the region. Mahua sold under the brand name ‘Mond’ is now being promoted by the state government. Plans are underway to sell it globally as a heritage drink.

Kahwa and Quinces in Kashmir

With roads being closed during winters and the supply of fresh vegetables cut off, it becomes imperative for residents of the state to sun-dry vegetables and store them for use during the cold months. On window sills and terraces, one can spot small piles of brinjals, cherry tomatoes, gourds and turnips being sun-dried. Once soaked in hot water, these veggies are ready to be used. For Bhatia’s team, this deep dive into the culinary world of Kashmir has only enriched their knowledge. “The vibrant tapestry of Kashmiri cuisine beckons me to explore different techniques and ingredients, each telling a tale of tradition and artistry,” she says, as she breathes in the crackling fresh air.

Bowled over the great Ramen revolution

Stirring up a slurpy storm, the humble wheat noodle is driving the great ramen revolution in India. No longer limited to its traditional Chinese roots—a dish crafted with kansui, an alkaline substance—these noodles, soaked in a simmering broth of vegetables or meat, with an array of toppings, have transcended boundaries. Its widespread availability and adaptability are clear indicators of its popularity. With frequent appearances in K-dramas, food pop-ups, literature, in addition to social media, ramen has evolved into a culinary icon. Home cooks, chefs, bloggers and food enthusiasts alike are also showcasing their ramen creativity, making the dish a cult favourite.

A thoughtful journey

HYDERABAD: Deciding to embrace a vegan lifestyle is a personal choice driven by various reasons. For some, it’s about a commitment to making mindful choices; for others, it’s a means to achieve specific health goals or to support broader environmental and social objectives. While a vegan diet offers numerous benefits, it’s essential to remember that it’s just one of many ways to achieve these objectives.

A vegan diet primarily comprises plant-based foods, entirely excluding animal products such as dairy, meat, and even honey. “This dietary choice has been associated with several health benefits, including better management of conditions like cancer, diabetes, cardiovascular diseases, hypertension, and obesity, along with effective weight management,” said Aswini Sagar, founder, Ahaarveda, ahead of World Vegan Day.

Transitioning to a vegan diet
For individuals accustomed to a traditional diet, transitioning to a vegan lifestyle can be challenging. It’s important to recognise that this transition cannot happen overnight; it requires careful planning and a gradual shift. “The pace of the transition should align with individual energy levels, commitment, and capability,” Sagar said. “Start by making two to three changes at a time rather than attempting a complete transformation all at once. For example, if you’re accustomed to a non-vegetarian diet, you could begin with plant-based options and then progress to full veganism,” she added. 

The duration of the transition can vary widely, lasting anywhere from one week to one or two months, depending on individual comfort levels and adaptability. Sagar mentioned that home-cooked meals play an important role in the transition to a vegan diet as they offer variety and stability. 

Challenges and precautions
Transitioning to a vegan diet may come with a unique set of challenges. Firstly, individuals may grapple with the substantial volume of food while shifting, as plant-based protein sources can be bulkier compared to non-vegetarian alternatives. This adjustment can be perplexing for those accustomed to non-vegetarian diets.

Moreover, the transition demands time and energy, and changes in bowel movements, energy levels, and digestion may occur, which individuals need to adapt to gradually. It’s essential to recognise that these changes are part of the process and not a cause for concern.

While embracing a vegan lifestyle is a commendable choice, it’s crucial to make informed decisions and ensure nutritional adequacy. One should be mindful of dietary balance, as not all vegan options offer the same nutritional value as their non-vegetarian counterparts. Understanding the alternatives and making nutritionally sound choices is vital.

“Certain precautions are necessary for specific groups, such as children and pregnant women. They must ensure that their nutritional needs are met during critical stages of growth and development,” Sagar mentioned. 

Embarking on a vegan journey leads to several positive physical changes, such as improved metabolism, enhanced gut health, better skin, hair, and nail health, and an overall boost in immunity. These changes are a result of the nutritional benefits of a well-balanced vegan diet.

However, it’s essential to note that veganism requires careful planning to avoid potential deficiencies, especially in vitamin D and vitamin B12, which are not readily available in vegan foods. Proper supplementation or fortified foods may be necessary.

Choosing a vegan lifestyle is a personal decision, but it’s not a one-size-fits-all approach, and individuals need to adapt their transition to their own capabilities and preferences. Proper planning, education, and a balanced approach are key to success.

Waste Side Story: Putting waste to use

Did you know that pea pods, which we so often discard, make for excellent soups and crispy fritters? Or, that the roots and stalks of coriander also work wonders in a herb-y pesto, with roasted leftover bread fashioned as chips? This is also the perfect season to use fruit peels to jazz up a cocktail or a robust cup of tea. Welcome to an epoch-making era, where mixologists, bakers and chefs across the country are championing a dual cause of zero waste and sustainability.

Zero Warriors

One such flag-bearer is Vanshika Bhatia, chef-partner at OMO Cafe, an all-vegetarian community restaurant in Gurugram. “From using peels and offcuts for vegetable stock, chutneys and dehydrated powders, scraps play a big role in many dishes at OMO,” says Bhatia. One of the most successful examples of this philosophy is a dish made with millets and pineapple ceviche. While the other chefs work with the pulp, the peel is used to make house ferments by Athan Zimik, the restaurant’s culture chief.

A classic case of how sustainability has slowly been making inroads across the Indian F&B scene and even entering into bars is KhiKhi in Vasant Vihar, Delhi. At this bar and kitchen, before the juice of a lemon is squeezed out, the skin is peeled to make their own homemade lemon chiller. The same skin, once its job is done, is made into a paste, which is used as a marinade for fish. “Sustainability doesn’t only mean using the maximum out of a given ingredient, but also about the understanding of what produce to use,” says chef-partner Tarun Sibal. “Take, for instance, our Paloma cocktail uses local citrus. Be it the malta, kinnow, or the humble mosambi, we use seasonal produce to give a tang to the drink,” he adds.

Pumpkin chutney

Past Perfect

What’s interesting to note is that zero waste has always existed in India. Bengaluru’s New Krishna Bhavan has been a pioneer since 1954. This vegetarian restaurant located on Sampige Road has made the 3Rs its credo: Reduce, Reuse, Recycle. This means that all plastic is replaced by stainless steel, wet waste (mostly comprising fruit and vegetable peels) is given to a local piggery, and the high volume of coconut husk is sent back to the vendor, who in turn gives it to rope and choir manufacturers.

Goa’s Edible Archives is another restaurant in the town of Anjuna that does everything, from using local sticky rice in lieu of imported sushi variety to liaising with farmers for fresh vegetables and other produce, and composting the wet waste on site. “As chefs, we are accountable for safeguarding the environment and adopting practices that reduce the impact of waste. For example, if you take one kilogram of onions, the yield is 80-85 percent, and the rest is skin, roots and stalks. That waste impact is enormous,” says Avin Thaliath, chef, and also director of Lavonne Academy of Baking Science and Pastry Arts in Bengaluru. He makes it a point to source local produce that is available within 50-100 km vicinity. “We minimise food waste by converting leftovers into a creative menu,” says Thaliath, speaking of a yet-to-be-named sandwich that he created combining ingredients like coriander root and watermelon skin and flesh as part of the mock meat. The bread is made from raw banana flour and millet, with crushed watermelon seeds used as a coating.

Booked In

Segueing perfectly into this zero waste zeitgeist is the recently published book, The No-Waste Kitchen Cookbook. Written by Arina Suchde, a chef and mixologist based in Mumbai, it serves as a guide to cooking with scraps, reviving wilted greens and creatively utilising leftovers. “We live in times where there is so much disparity.

On one hand, there are people who have the luxury of buying whatever they want with just the click of a button, and on the other hand, there are people who don’t know where their next meal is coming from.The responsibility of making sure precious food doesn’t end up in landfills falls on the former,” believes Suchde.

To that end, the IBNII resort in Coorg has a policy that places the burden of mindful consumption on the consumer. After every meal, the food waste generated by each table at all of their restaurants is weighed. The cost of the waste is then charged to the diner (around Rs 100 per 100 grams) and this amount goes into a kitty that is later donated in aid of hunger.A truly weighty attempt at a solution to a major problem.

Inside Sunny Leone’s sprawling restaurant in Noida

Why Noida? I wasn’t interested in Mumbai because everyone else was, and I didn’t want a restaurant for the sake of it,” is the opening gambit of Bollywood actor Sunny Leone as she sits before me in a pink dress over a white shirt at Chica Loca, her first restaurant in India.

“Opening a restaurant was a long time due,” she adds. A collaboration with Singing Bowls Hospitality, led by Sahil Baweja, the actor plans to open other outlets in Hyderabad, Goa, and Punjab, she tells TMS.

Entrepreneurship is not new to Leone. In 2019, she started, together with husband Daniel Weber, a production company, Sun City Media and Entertainment, which is the parent company of three of her brands – I am Animal (an athleisure label), Affetto (a fragrance line), and Starstruck (luxury cosmetics brand).

Leone’s distinct style of glamour is stamped all over the restaurant’s décor. The 7,000-square-foot place is draped in purple—from wine-hued curtains to lavender flowers and lights. On the first floor, next to the bar, there is an entire black wall that is mounted with stunning black-and-white portraits of Leone in diva mode, in her red-carpet gowns, besides Leone on vacation. There is also a performance stage, a cocktail bar, and a sprawling terrace with a breathtaking view.

Chica Loca offers a multi-cuisine menu with a modern interpretation of Indian, Asian, European, and Italian cuisine, drawing inspiration from Leone’s travels. “From my mother’s comforting paranthas to the vibrant tacos savoured during vacations in Cancun [Mexico], from the elegant sushi at corporate launches to carefree burgers I enjoyed on kids’ day out in California—each dish encapsulates a distinct moment of love,” she says.

Unhealthy food adding $7.3 trillion in hidden costs to global economy, finds UN body

“The future of our agrifood systems and, indeed, of our planet hinges on our willingness to acknowledge these true costs and understand how we all contribute to them,” the FAO said.

How the hidden costs of agrifood systems affect us. (Photo | www.fao.org)

PARIS: The food and agriculture system adds at least $10 trillion in “hidden costs” to the global economy every year due to unhealthy diets, emissions and undernourishment, a UN agency said on Monday.

The Food and Agriculture Organization said it conducted an analysis in 154 countries to determine the “true” cost of the agrifood system.

The global quantified hidden costs totalled around $12.7 trillion in 2020, representing almost 10 percent of the global gross domestic product, the FAO estimated.

“The future of our agrifood systems and, indeed, of our planet hinges on our willingness to acknowledge these true costs and understand how we all contribute to them,” said FAO Director-General Qu Dongyu.

ALSO READ | Eativity Crisis: On the unhealthy obsession with food

The study found that 73 percent of the hidden costs are linked to bad diets that are high in ultra-processed foods, fats and sugars, causing obesity and non-communicable diseases such as diabetes.

The FAO said the consequences include losses in labour productivity.

More than 20 percent of the hidden costs are associated with environmental issues including emissions from greenhouse gases and nitrogen, water use and changes to land use.

ALSO READ | Doctors want ads promoting junk food to be regulated 

Low-income countries are the worst hit by these hidden costs, which account for 27 percent of their GDP compared to 11 percent for middle-income nations and less than eight percent in the wealthy ones.

Of fasts, feasts & fiesta

CHENNAI: Deepavali, the time when the light illuminates the nooks and crannies of the city, turning even the darkest corners into festive moods, is brewing in full force. Known as the Festival of Lights, this is a season where a flurry of activities, emotions, and delicacies, gets on board, especially in the vibrant metropolis of Chennai, a city where an array of diverse communities thrive.

A few days ahead of Deepavali, kitchens in several households are packed with utensils used to dole out some scrumptious sweets, snacks and a special menu. From the irresistible Mysore pak to the delicate soan papdi and the flavourful kaara paniyaram, tables are adorned with many a delicacy. 

Archita Raghu, Sonu M Kothari, and Sreelakshmi S Nair embark on a Deepavali spree to immerse themselves in the city’s cultural vibrancy, engaging with individuals from various communities, delving into their unique celebrations, capturing the essence of what the festival means to them, and curating their culinary offerings.

RamPrakash, culinary director, CRP Culinary, & traditional food researcher
Across the Kongu Nadu region, Deepavali is synonymous with a breakfast with steaming idli and poori accompanied by a range of spicy mutton dishes. For several Tamil communities in districts like Madurai, Tirunelveli, and Dindigul, this festival day begins with a trip to the meat market and the usual bath after massaging nalla ennai into their hair. At the dinner table, fluffy kaara paniyaram, adhirasam, minced chukka, and fried intestine curry await them. “Especially for this festival, idli and poori are made. While mutton dishes are usually made in this region, kudal kulambu is a favourite. With kudal, they would make kulambu or kootu. It is the best accompaniment for these dishes. With kadala paruppu, it is a signature dish,” explains Ramprakash, a Madurai-based traditional food researcher. The core of festivities and feasts in most villages revolves around connecting with nature, he says. “Every festival is a celebration of food; on that day, there are specific dishes and traditions. This differs across areas based on people’s lifestyles. Every dish has a soul and love,” he adds.

Aattu Kudal Kulambu 
Ingredients

Goat Intestine (chopped): 1 kg
Pearl onions/Shallots (chopped): 2 cups
Tomato, chopped:  2
Ginger garlic paste: 2 tbsp
Garlic, finely chopped: 6 pods
Curry leaves: A sprig
Coriander leaves: A pinch
Mint leaves: A small pinch
Green chilli: 3
Red chilli powder: 2 tsp
Coriander powder: 3 tsp
Pepper powder: 1 tsp
Turmeric powder: 1/4 tsp
Cinnamon: 2 small sticks
Bay leaves: 1
Cumin seeds: 1/2 tsp
Fried gram dal: 150 g
Oil as required
Salt to taste
For masala
Fennel seeds (Sombu): 1 tsp
Poppy seeds (Kasa Kasa): 1 tsp
Peppercorn: 1 tbsp
Shredded coconut: 1/2 cup
Peanut: 3 tsp

Method
To clean the goat intestine, place the bag inside a pot of boiling water, and keep it closed. After 10 minutes, remove it, and take out the tubular structure. With a brush, rub the surface to peel off the thorn-like layer. Run each tube under water for around 20 minutes, till clean. Cut the bag, and then the tube into small pieces. Add turmeric and wash again.

For the curry
Soak hard-fried gram dal in warm water for two hours. Grind shredded coconut, peppercorn, poppy seeds, fennel seeds, and peanuts into a fine paste. Set aside. In a pressure cooker, heat oil and add cinnamon sticks, bay leaves, and cumin seeds till they splutter. Add chopped garlic, curry leaves, green chilies. After the raw smell goes, add onion, tomato, and ginger garlic paste and sautè it well. Add the soaked fried gram dal, turmeric powder, and the ground mixture. On medium flame, add chilli powder, coriander powder, and pepper powder. Add kudal pieces and roast the masala. Add a cup of water and the salt needed. Close the cooker, and cook for about nine whistles. Garnish with coriander leaves. 

Varsha Panjabi, food connoisseur
Deepavali in a Sindhi household is a grand affair. The day starts at three in the morning when special sweets are prepared for the festival. “We start the day a little earlier than usual with a small prayer in the morning followed by a Diwali party in the afternoon,” says Varsha Panjabi, a food connoisseur. Right after the sunset, a Lakshmi puja is arranged. “Since most people of the community are businessmen, the day is also considered to be the first day of a financial year,” shares Varsha. Only after lighting the home with diyas does a family step out, because it is also said that “Lakshmi ma visits only the places that are brightly lit.” Towards the end of the day, the family comes together for the fireworks, followed by a game of cards. “Playing cards or gambling on Diwali is considered to be very auspicious,” adds Varsha.

Dry Fruit Varo 
Ingredients

Mixed nuts almonds, cashews, 
pistachio: 3/4 cup 
Sugar: 1/2 cup 
Ghee: 1 tsp
Cardamom powder: a pinch
Poppy seeds: 1 tbsp

Method
Dry roast the nuts in a heavy bottom pan for two minutes. Keep it aside. In a heavy bottom pan, add ghee and poppy seeds, and let it cook. Add sugar to the mix, and let it cook on low flame. Keep stirring on a medium flame till sugar gets caramelised. Add cardamom powder to it along with nuts and turn off the heat. Pour the mixture on a greased plate/baking sheet or a chapati maker and roll with a rolling pin to even it. While it is still warm, cut into desired-size incisions and let it cool. Break into pieces once it cools off or serve it as discs. Store brittle in a tight container.

PH Shivaram, master mariner

EXPRESS ILLUSTRATION

Deepavali takes on a unique significance in the Bengali community as it coincides with the worship of Goddess Kali, hence celebrating the goddesses’ win over evil. Shivaram, reflecting on the Bengali celebration of the festival, explains that the day preceding Deepavali is observed as Naraka Chaturdashi or Bhoot Chaturdashi, signifying the belief that 14 generations or ancestral spirits from the past generations visit the earth to meet their dear ones.

This occasion is marked by the lighting of 14 diyas around the household. Subsequently, the following day, on Amavasya, the community partakes in Kali Pujo, an event dedicated to the worship of Goddess Kali. “When I was a kid, the day before Kali Pujo used to be a Halloween kind of day for us kids, where we used to go to our relatives and neighbour houses,” says Shivaram.

The pujo entails the serving of bhog, a sacred food offering to the goddess, featuring delicacies such as khichdi, chanar payesh (a sweet cottage cheese mixture), and various chutneys, symbolising the cultural richness and spiritual significance of the occasion.

Shakeena Banu, home chef
In Kanpur, the night before Deepavali, Shakeena Banu’s household would begin their preparations for traditional dishes like flavourful mutton biryani and creamy sheer khurma. As the festival descends, Shakeena and the other communities — from Kashmir to Tamil Nadu — in their colony would congregate and feast together. “There will be people from all over India. It didn’t matter which caste or religion we belong to. We celebrate as a community,” she says.

This tradition, which she has kept up for 15 years, followed her when she moved to Chennai. A recipe that she whips up for every Deepavali feast is the savoury mutton balls that have roots in the Maratha cuisine of Thanjavur — kayiru katti kola. “It is a family favourite. It has minced mutton, coconut, pottu kadalai, and spices. It is fried and made into a ball, and to hold it in shape, they tie it with rope. My grandmother used to have a banana stem to roll; now we don’t get it anymore,” Shakeena says. Her children’s friends frequent the house to pack boxes of biryani and share their love. “Beyond festivals, it is a great gathering,” she signs off.

Sheer khurma
Ingredients

Fine rumali semiya: 1 cup
Milk: 3/4 L
Khoya: 100 g
Sugar: 1 cup (adjust to taste)
Chopped dates: 15 nos
Assorted nuts, finely chopped
Ghee: 50 ml
Saffron: a few strands
Method
Heat a skillet, add 1/2 cup of ghee, and roast the rumali semiya until golden brown. Keep it aside for it to cool. In another pan, boil the milk until it thickens to 500 ml. Add the roasted semiya and cook until soft. Add sugar and khoya to it and mix well. In the skillet, add the rest of the ghee and roast the assorted nuts until golden brown. Add the chopped dates to the semiya and mix well so that the mixture thickens. Transfer the nuts with ghee to the semiya. Save some for the garnish. The sheer khurma is ready to serve. 

Anitha, homemaker

According to Jainism, it is considered that Mahavira attained salvation on this day. Sweets are distributed, and people visit temples, or sthanaks, a place where prayer meetings are held. “People pray for forgiveness for their wrongdoings. The prayer is 48 minutes long,” says Anitha. She adds that individuals also fast on this day. “Fasting helps in the purification of the body.” They believe that the day after Deepavali is the first day of a new year. Coming to the city, the community adapted a few traditions, like performing Lakshmi and Saraswathi puja. The community follows a tradition of hosting a puja in the evening. “A Lakshmi puja is done to invite the goddess into our homes,” she says.

Papdi

Ingredients
Refined wheat flour: 1 cup
Wheat flour: 1 cup
Gram flour: 1 cup
Oil: 2 tbsp
Carom seeds: 1 tsp
Red chilli powder: 1.5 tsp
Turmeric powder: 1/2 tsp 
Salt to taste 
Method
Mix the ingredients and knead well. Cover the dough with a cloth and let it rest for 15 minutes. Now, cut the dough into small parts and flatten them with a rolling pin. Deep fry in hot oil. Store in an air-tight container.

Vanisri Deena Bandhu, IT professional
The Festival of Lights brings positivity and hope, as the celebration is said to bring light over darkness. The people of Odisha believe that “by lighting lamps on our doorstep, we invite positivity into the home,” comments Vanisri, who has her roots in Bonsala.

With customs like preparing sweets and distributing them to friends and family and decorating the house with flowers and rangoli in the morning, the people of the Odia community follow a specific tradition of inviting the dead to their homes in the evening.

“We place cow dung on the floor and light jute sticks with earthen lamps lit in front of the house. Four people standing in a circle raise the sticks towards the sky, calling the forefathers,” says Vanisri, adding that this tradition is practiced to pay homage to the dead, and it is believed that by invoking the forefathers, the house and the family are blessed by them. The ritual is called ‘Bada Badua Daka’.

Thollatlo 

Ingredients
Rice flour: 50 g
Jeera water: 150 ml 
Sugar: 5-6 tbsp
Method
Prepare jeera water by boiling cumin seeds (jeera) in water. After boiling the water add sugar to it. Mix until the water boils to the consistency of a sugar syrup. Pour the rice flour into the liquid. Mix well and add water to adjust the consistency. Make round balls of the mixture and serve. 

A taste of vegetarian Kashmir

We also tried the Nadru Yakhni; the lotus stem is a Kashmiri food staple. Kalari, a Dogra cheese that is used to make Kaladi Kulcha, among other dishes, is another must-try. It is a popular snack in Jammu.
Bhatia also drew our attention to some beautiful ingredients like quince, dandelion, cockscomb flowers, local shallots, lotus stem, and beagle beans in the making of vegetarian Kashmiri food. “We have treated most of the ingredients with techniques we learned in Kashmir and then created dishes that go with those elements,” she says.

Guide to Spain’s Galicia’s gastro galaxy

It is likely that the produce you see in the market will be on your plate at one of the many eateries in town. In the bright and cheerful A Noiesa restaurant, try delicacies like pimientos de padrón (small peppers blistered in oil with a sprinkle of sea salt) and empanada (savoury pie stuffed with meat or seafood). “When in Galicia, don’t ask for paella,” says guide Ruben Araúxo; instead order arroz con mariscos, a rice casserole with assorted seafood like mussels, clams, scallops, etc. Unlike paella, the dish comes to the table with some stock still in the pot.

Flavours of the Orient

BENGALURU: Whether you like eating a steaming bowl of ramen on a cold day or just enjoy looking at beautifully designed and constructed sushi from your favourite Japanese anime, food is definitely one of the most wholesome experiences in Japanese culture. The Japan Food Fest 2023 organised by the Consulate General of Japan in Bengaluru is coming back to the city on November 26, 2023, at Shangri-La Hotel to celebrate the rich flavours of Japanese cuisine.

Around 20 well-known restaurants in the city will be putting up stalls, and serving various delicacies. They will also have restaurants from other places like Puducherry and New Delhi. The fest will also feature a sashimi-cutting demonstration wherein a Japanese chef will showcase how sashimi is cut and made into rolls. “In order to deepen Japan-India relations, it is important to know, recognise, and respect each other’s culture. I believe that food is the basis of culture, and making Indian people taste Japanese food is a shortcut to learning about the Japanese culture at large,” says Nakane Tsutomu, Consul-General of Japan in Bengaluru.

The last edition saw around 1,900 people participating in the fest and this year, an upward of 2,000 people are expected. Tsutomu says, “I was surprised at the turnout at last year’s fest, it was unfortunate that I was not able to taste the food at the stalls due to the many friends and acquaintances who came to the event. The Sushi Exhibition held at Chitrakala Parishath in August this year attracted 5,500 visitors in two weeks. We are pleased to see the growing popularity of Japanese food in Bengaluru.”

Speaking about the city’s cultural inclusivity, Tsutomu says, “Bengaluru, with its favourable climate, has always attracted a diverse range of people from all over India. Therefore, I understand that Japanese culture, especially Japanese food culture, can be tried without prerequisites or barriers, and accepted as each person feels. Japanese food is said to be eaten with all five senses, and we hope that everyone in Bengaluru will enjoy it.” He further adds that technique and precision are very important to the cuisine.

“Some of the most important aspects of Japanese cooking are the five methods (cutting, boiling, grilling, steaming, and frying), five tastes (sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and umami), relished with five senses (sight, hearing, smell, touch, and taste), and five colours (red, yellow, green, white, and black) which is very pleasing to the eye.”

United flavours of Moscow will take your taste buds on a culinary voyage

As an ode to the city, kickstart your culinary explorations with hi-tech Russian cuisine at the two-Michelin star Twins Garden. Located high above Moscow’s rooftops, with a breathtaking view of the city, the handsome eatery’s accolades are a testament to its constant innovation. Think highly Gram-worthy food and wine, all smoke and sizzle. Founded in 2017 by twin brothers Ivan and Sergey Berezutsky, the food here has been developed in its own R&D laboratory combining gastronomy with science. While some products are fermented, others are 3D-printed or freeze-dried for effect. Vegetables and fruits are sourced from the eatery’s organic farm with sustainable wines crafted from homegrown vegetables, mushrooms and herbs.

In the mood for merrymaking 

CHENNAI : As the chilly winds of December blow into town with the promise of a prosperous new year, the scent of sugary treats and goodies baking in ovens wafts from bustling kitchens worldwide. After all, no Christmas celebration is complete without the fruity delight of a plum cake topped with white frosting. As seen in our grandmothers’ handy recipes and the bakers’ precise cookbook, all plum cakes must be mixed with a sizeable amount of dry fruits, a splash of liquor, and dashes of love.

In the spirit of celebrations, armed with 50 kilos of dry fruits and 30 litres of liquor, Hotel Ambica Empire in Vadapalani held a cake-making ceremony on Thursday. Inside the grand lobby, visitors were greeted by Christmas trees strung up with lights, sparkling bottles of rum and wine, and the sugary aromas. Within three silver trays, colourful dry fruits, such as raisins and tutti-frutti, and nuts like rich almonds and walnuts, were painstakingly decorated into a Christmas tree and shaped a line wishing guests a Merry Christmas. While the pandemic halted festivities the past few years, Hotel Ambica Empire — which has a legacy spanning 25 years — hopes to revive its celebrations.

“This is the first celebration we are conducting after our renovation. During the cake-mixing ceremony, we will mix dry fruits and nuts and preserve the mixture in our kitchen. Before Christmas, we will use the mixture for the preparation of plum cakes. It will be used before, after, and during Christmas and also for New Year,” says general manager R Kalathinathan, urging citizens to visit the hotel to partake in the celebrations. Actor-singer Mano and music director Sirpi graced the event. 

December is a month of joy and a season of harvest. As Aditya Prakash Singh, food and beverage manager, explains, “The cake mixing started in the 17th century AD. With these nuts, people make plum cakes, and this mixture for the plum cake can be soaked for one to two weeks.”

This mixture, Chef Ravichandran adds, will result in over moist, delightful 300 cakes of 100 kg for the holiday season. Apart from chilly winds, this season also brings bountiful cakes and treats.

The super Georgian Supra

The supra is a medium of culinary storytelling split into three distinct chapters, where following the cold food that whets the palate and eases it into a calm, the big guns are brought out in course two. You name it, and they have it—stewed, roasted, or rolled into dumplings. There’s the beef chashushuli and the veal chakapuli, both meat stews, along with barbecued pork or beef, and fluffy kinkhalis, the typical Georgian dumplings. While the overarching essence of luxurious piquancy in this section of the feast remains largely uniform across the country, regional variations abound. For instance, in the western province of Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti, spicier flavors are common, while Kakheti is big on meat.

Harissa: Hot comfort in the valley

It is said that to truly appreciate the beauty of Kashmir, one must visit it during the chillaikalan. Never mind that these six weeks—that begin from December 20 and last till January-end—are also the harshest days of winter. A 40-day period when people all over the valley sport the thick, unisex woolen embroidered tunic called a pheran; each insulated by those ingenious portable heaters called kanger to keep the chill at bay. But chillaikalan—that’s followed by the 20-day-long chillaikhurd and the subsequent, 10-day phase of chillai bacha, which marks the end of the cold season—is also the time when one more winter special comes to the fore.

Known multifariously as harees, hareesa or harissa (not to be confused with the Tunisian spice paste of the same name), it is a pounded meat (lean, de-boned lamb), grain (mostly rice) and aromatic spice-redolent delicacy that’s cooked overnight and served only for breakfast. As early as 4 am, one can find people gathered outside stalls called harissa-wans waiting for the aroma of the delicacy to waft out. It is always served with crisp naan, bits of which are torn apart and used to scoop up morsels of the comfort food into eager mouths. This is best chased with the salted, pink-hued tea called noon chai, which is a bit of an acquired taste.

Food critic and writer, the Srinagar-based Marryam Reshii, says, “During biting cold winters combined with electricity outages, harissa is the bright spot in Kashmir. Traditionally made and sold only in the old city of Srinagar, it is sheep meat on the bone cooked for several hours in an enclosed vessel that is insulated by a clever invention of the harissa-gors as the cooks-cum-sellers are called. Garlic, salt, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves and black pepper are a fraction of the appeal.” Thanks to culinary travellers, the dish has now evolved into an all-year-round delicacy. For instance, Chai Jaai tea room that sits on The Bund along Srinagar’s Residency Road serves a close-to-traditional style of harissa 365 days a year.

Given its heartiness, the dish is only sold in winter to fuel the masses with its unctuous pounded meat and rice parts, which are always in a 1:1 ratio. These are cooked overnight in a copper pot called maath in Kashmiri, which is buried in the earth, with a chamber for firewood below. With times changing, it’s not uncommon for many harissa-wans to use gas-propelled fires these days. “Spices like cinnamon, fennel seeds and the de rigueur cardamom—the flavour of Kashmir—are abundantly coaxed into the porridge-like mix, which is topped with a ladle of hot mustard oil that is set alight before being splashed over the contents of the maath,” explains Jasleen Marwah, a Kashmiri Sikh home chef-turned-restauranteur, who runs Folk in Mumbai. This multi-regional Indian cuisine restaurant is one of the few places in the city where one can try out this winter specialty all year round.

At first bite, it is easy to see how parallels can be drawn, comparing harissa with similar meat porridge-esque dishes like haleem and khichda. Both are popular dishes across the Indian subcontinent and both use lentils—something that doesn’t go into harissa. While haleem is cooked until the meat blends with the lentils, in khichda, chunks of meat remain whole as cubes.

Interestingly, all three have their underpinnings in the Arabian dish known as harees. The first written recipe of harees dates back to the 10th century, when Arab scribe Abu Muhammad al-Muzaffar ibn Sayyar compiled a cookbook called Kitab Al-Tabikh.

Farmer and food curator Afshan Rashid, who runs an organic farm called Baag Manzuk in Pulwama near Srinagar, says that the difference is that instead of rice, as in a harissa, a harees has meat that is cooked with wheat and uses a different selection of spices. “The origins of harissa date back to the time when the Silk Route was in use. This is another vestige of a legacy that Kashmir has inherited via its trade route,” says Rashid.

Agreeing to similarities with haleem, celebrity chef and entrepreneur, the Kolkata-based Sabyasachi Gorai, says, “The consistency of both the dishes is paste-like. Also, the origins for both lie in the Azerbaijan region. What I, however, find fascinating about harissa is that it is mostly cooked by men. In fact, there is a saying in Kashmiri, which means that ‘the dish is ready to be eaten when you grow a stubble’, meaning that it takes one the entire night to cook, and is served only at dawn. The glutinous texture might put off the less-adventurous epicure, but it is what makes this dish a class apart. Once you’ve tasted it, you’ll keep coming back to it.”

Marryam Reshii, Food critic and writer 

2023 sets stage for dynamic gastronomic landscape of 2024

BENGALURU:  As we bid farewell to 2023, Bengaluru’s bustling food and beverage scene continues to showcase the city’s culinary prowess. The year was marked by a significant transformation, featuring the launch of swanky restaurants, the surge of the millet revolution, the adoption of plant-based menus, the thriving microbrewery scene, the flourishing of craft beverages, and the evolution of experiential dining. 

Delving deeper into the fabric of Bengaluru’s F&B landscape, distinguishing trends included technological integration, celebration of authentic regional cuisine, community involvement, innovations in food delivery, zero-waste initiatives, and an increasing focus on mindful dining. We sought insights from industry experts, obtaining a firsthand account of their observations as they experienced the unfolding of 2023. 

Managing partner of Daysie: All Day Casual Bar, Anirudh Kheny, emphasised Bengaluru’s culinary scene, highlighting its commitment to a wide range of flavours by combining regional, local, and worldwide cuisines. Bengaluru has seen the emergence of specialised cuisine-focused restaurants, fine dining venues with outstanding menus, and unique concepts such as speakeasies. Leading Indian and international food and beverage brands are drawn to the city, demonstrating their willingness to offer a wide range of culinary experiences.

The vibrant and diverse food and beverage scene of Bengaluru was highlighted by JP Singh, executive chef at the Sheraton Grand Bengaluru Whitefield. He brought to the fore the celebration of local and regional cuisine, sustainability, creative food concepts, tech integration, health-conscious dining, and the thriving café culture.

Chef-turned-entrepreneur Tarun Sibal echoed the sentiment, complimenting Bengaluru on its shift to food stories driven by content, with a variety of F&B formats and blockbuster openings. The new airport terminal’s international restaurant brand openings increased the city’s culinary appeal.

Bengaluru’s pleasant transition was underlined by Debaditya Chaudhury, the managing director and founder of Chowman, particularly in speciality coffee shops and craft breweries. Sustainability became the main focus, signifying an attempt to protect the environment, while culinary innovation broke down conventional barriers.

This year’s travellers showed a great passion for regional cuisine, according to Hyatt Centric head chef Gaurav Ramakrishnan. In the metropolis, tea-infused mocktails, cocktails, and fermented brews gained popularity in the city.

The Hilton Bangalore Embassy Golflinks’ Sourav Chowdhury, manager of food and beverage, highlighted the revolutionary development in Bengaluru’s F&B market by emphasising sustainability, robust online presence, and Instagram-worthy dining options. Businesses that were well-established online and provided flawless delivery services prospered by adapting to the changing demands of their tech-savvy clientele.

According to the annual trends report by a leading food delivery app, the most popular dish ordered in 2023 was biryani, which was closely followed by idli, and chocolate cake. Co-founder and director of World of Brands Gurpreet Singh praised the astounding growth in the number of new food and beverage enterprises, particularly in the wake of challenges induced by Covid. Noteworthy trends included the surge in gin popularity, the promising trajectory of tequila growth, and the establishment of friendly neighbourhood bars.

In summary, 2023 has proven to be an exceptional year for all stakeholders in Bengaluru’s food and beverage chain. Chefs, proprietors, suppliers, content curators, and diners alike shared in the delightful experiences of the past year, setting the stage for an even more dynamic gastronomic landscape of 2024.

Peeling the many layers of parathas across India

I wake up every morning excitedly and make my way to the kitchen to brew a cup of tea, and alongside, check out what vegetables sit in the box in the refrigerator. This, in turn, gives the inclination of what paratha they be turned into. The good ol’ aloo paratha is usually given a break till the new harvest of potatoes begin to show up in the market towards mid-December. The sweetish cauliflower is turned into gobhi paratha, the radish into spicy mooli paratha, and then there’s always the creamy and comforting paneer paratha. Oh, and did I mention the leftover dal turned into parathas? So, there’s that too. The sizzle of the paratha on a hot tawa is, in fact, my winter love song!

Dilemma of Indian street food

Hygiene was never an issue. Our houses are spick-and-span, but we dump all our waste on the streets. We cook with our hands, serve with our hands, and eat with our hands. The sweat, dust and smoke in our street food adds its own taste. Long before Ikea arrived, street vendors had invented a modular, multi-purpose item – the cloth. Usually red in colour; moist but not dripping wet.

It is used for wiping the vessels, hands, and the cart. But I was okay with the hygiene standards as I assumed the vendors were merely trying to make a living.

My opinion changed when I watched the ‘How much do you earn?’ videos. Food vendors earn as much as a newbie software engineer, and much to Narayana Murthy’s chagrin – without even working 70 hours a week! Modern Indian street food is neither ‘Indian’ or ‘street’ – thanks to the entry of three new villains- cheese, mayo, and butter. Slabs of butter so large, you’d assume the stall was secretly funded by a heart specialist. Mayo added to momos, chaat, and eventually – your nightmares. Variants like cheese dosae, cheese pizza, and cheese cheese! burgers, pizzas, and even idli-vadae are sold as street food, and it all seems like an excuse to subvert the rules that restaurants have to adhere to.

Today, I am wary of an upset stomach. Diarrhoea has got an MBA from a posh college and returned as IBS. I have become the guy who warns people against fast food. Like a recovering alcoholic, I steel myself when the smell of street food hits me. In The Godfather, Don Corleone says ‘I have learnt more in the streets than any classroom’. I seem to agree. I have gone from fast food to fasting when I encounter tasty food.

(The writer’s views are his own)

Secret sauce of Moses Lake’s space burgers- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

A UFO craze is sweeping America. The Pentagon reports alien aircraft being chased by USAF pilots. There is a tabloid tattle about captured aliens being studied in secret government labs. But in Moses Lake, a small lakeside city in Washington state, space-time comes every August. Space burgers are the flavour of the month at the annual Grant County Fair there: they debuted in 1964. The machines that make the burgers are hotter than Marilyn Monroe—they take just 30 seconds to toast to a crisp two slices of white bread, each at a blistering 400°F. Between the slices is a scrumptious mixture of seasoned ground meat, a secret sauce, and shredded lettuce. The space burgers get their flying saucer shape when the machines slice away the crusts in an oval formation. 

The machines are operated by the ladies of the local Lioness Club, who haven’t revealed the recipe for the sauce for over half a decade. Space burgers are so popular that visitors to the fair order 15 to 20 at one go. A food writer for the Seattle Post-Intelligencer wrote in 1987, “There was this Space burger, a hamburger patty compressed between two slices of bread in a machine so that it looked like a flying saucer. I just went nuts over it.” The money raised from the sale of space burgers is enough to fund an entire year’s worth of community projects at Moses Lake. In 1994, the Lioness Club also created space scramblers: a breakfast sandwich loaded with eggs, ham, sour cream, and cheese. Unfortunately, they are an extinct race.

The machines creating space burgers

Every year before the fair, large amounts of secret sauce are made at the local Chico’s Pizza Parlor. The burger machines made their first appearance in 1962 at the Seattle World’s Fair. But its popularity, like that of the countless uselessly eccentric inventions at expositions, faded away until the enterprising Lionesses discovered two of them packed away in a basement, according to a piece in the Wenatchee World in 1995.

About 5,000 space burgers are made every day on five machines. The makers had put in potentiometers, which are useful to adjust the heat. These little guys will turn off the machine if it overheats and switch it back once the machine has cooled. There was an edible space needle—not to be confused with the Observation Tower in Seattle—once made at the fair, but has since been lost between the threads of time. The Martians don’t need to worry, so long as they land in Moses Lake in August. 

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How the indigenous grain is dominating the table- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

In her recent Instagram post, chef and cookbook author Anahita Dhondy finishes her Millet Monday segment with an easy-peasy egg and okra with barnyard millets (samvat ke chawal) recipe, and as always it looks healthily delicious. Dhondy discovered the “goodness grain” in 2018. In 2023, keeping up with the United Nations’ International Year of Millets, she started her weekly Instagram posts on the grain. Millets—jhangora (barnyard millet), ragi (finger millet), bajra (pearl millet) and kangni (foxtail millet)—have been a kitchen staple in regional cuisine. But it was not until last year that urban India realised there was more to the grain than just relegating it as cattle fodder. Chefs all over the world are coming up with their interpretations of the coarse grain. 

Not long ago, American baker Jonathan Bethony, owner of the Washington-based Seylou, challenged his pastry chef to bake with only millets for a week. Impressed with the results, millet canelé and millet chocolate chip cookies made it to the menu.

In another corner of the world, African celebrity chef Fatmata Binta created soupu kanja with fonio—a variety of millet common in Africa—to launch the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization’s (FAO) Global Chefs Challenge in June. In India, chef Thomas Zacharias started the Millet Revival Project in Mumbai, while the Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts launched a holistic programme with dishes like pearl millet pessaratu. Not to be outdone, Pune-based brewery, Great State Aleworks, came up with a millet-based beer. The Indian government is also mulling over promoting the use of grain among the armed forces.

“Millets are versatile and nutritious. Each type has its own unique flavour and texture. One can use the grains as a garnish or incorporate millet flour into the dough for pasta or bread preparations. We can also combine it with other ingredients to create a balance of flavours and textures. For example, you can prepare millet risotto with truffles or a millet pilaf with saffron-infused broth,” says Ravi Kant, executive chef, The Lalit, New Delhi.

From tortillas and crisps to salads, risottos and even brownies, this year has seen the millet revolution owning the culinary world. While restaurants like Indian Accent in Delhi are serenading patrons with bajra khichdi with parmesan, chefs are using ragi flour to make everything, from dimsums to Goan sanna. The fact that the grain can be cooked in various ways, including boiling, steaming, toasting and even fermenting, with each boasting a different flavour profile, is making chefs experiment with it. Recently, culinary virtuoso Vikas Khanna crafted ragi cookies for the Indian Prime Minister during his visit to the US.

“Whole millet serves as a valuable ingredient in salads, soups and stews, while millet flour emerges as a key component in preparing rotis, dosas and idlis. Sceptics should try an indulgent ragi brownie,” says Chef Sombir Choudhary, culinary partner, Jamming Goat, Bengaluru and Goa.

Ragi manni; barley salad; different kinds of millets

Since the grain has a mild flavour, one can experiment with different herbs, spices and seasonings like cinnamon, cardamom, or star anise to enhance the taste. In desserts, millet flour can be used in pie crusts, cakes or cookies, or the grains can be cooked in milk or coconut milk to make a creamy pudding. “Millets can be incorporated into a variety of meals as a basic ingredient, a primary element, or a creative garnish. This gives fine-dining food a distinctive and nutritious twist,” says Chef Ankur Sharma, Raahi Neo Bar and Kitchen, Bengaluru.

The slightly sweet, nutty flavour adds a unique taste to the dish. “A good substitute for rice or wheat, it can be served as standalone appetizers or as accompaniments to main courses or as the main course itself. Our ragi manni made using finger millet is quite a hit with patrons. One could even try innovative dishes such as ragi chakli and bajra tartlets with fruit custard,” says executive chef Sukesh Kanchan, Sana-Di-Ge, New Delhi. So if you are looking for something indulgent yet healthy, it’s time to go back to your roots.

Barnyard Millet 
Risotto
INGREDIENTS

Barnyard millet   – 60 gm
Chopped onion –   8 gm
Chopped garlic  –  3 gm
Chopped leeks   – 4 gm
Chopped celery    -4 gm
Button mushroom  –  8 gm
Wild mushroom   – 5 gm
Parmesan cheese  –  3 gm
Salt – 2 gm
Black pepper    -1 gm
Butter   – 3 gm
Cream – 2 gm
Sweet corn -10 gm
Capsicum  –  10 gm

METHOD 
1. Soak barnyard millet for 30 minutes
2. In a pan, add some butter
3. After the butter melts, add chopped garlic and sauté 
4. Add some chopped onion, leeks, celery and sauté
5. Add mushrooms, capsicum and sweet corn, and cook for 2 minutes
6. Now add barnyard millet and mix with all ingredients
7. Add some water and let it simmer for 10 minutes
8. Finish the risotto with cooking cream
Recipe courtesy: Chef Ravi Kant

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Meet Chaitanya Muppala’s CEO of India’s first craft chocolate brand ‘Manam’- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

“Thank you for not wearing perfume today. The cologne interferes with the activity we will be doing now,” says Chaitanya Muppala, as he puts forward a tray with cacao (beans from which chocolate is made) nibs. “These are nature’s chocolate chips, crushed pieces of cacao bean that have gone through the fermenting, drying and roasting process,” explains the 32-year-old Muppala, a second-generation entrepreneur and the CEO of Manam, India’s first craft chocolate brand, based in Hyderabad. Manam means ‘us’ or ‘we’ in Telugu. 

He is addressing a motley group of eight ‘students’ in what he calls the “classroom” where one gets to understand the journey of craft chocolate. It is part of the immersive experience called Manam Kharkhana, a craft chocolate workshop, lab and retail space in Banjara Hills. Muppala is India’s first and only Level 3 Certified Chocolate Taster from the International Institute of Chocolate and Cacao Tasting, US. His passion for the bean made him come up with his own brand for which he started work in 2018. Craft chocolate, he explains, is one that’s produced on a small-scale, made with whole beans from scratch by one company, pod to bar, where the quality and sustainability of the cacao beans are prioritised. This is in contrast to industrial chocolate, which is made in bulk. 

“Close your eyes and feel it on the tongue. What do the aroma, texture and taste remind you of,” he prods, as the group members taste the single-origin West Godavari cacao, grown in Tadikalapudi farms in West Godavari district of Andhra Pradesh, 350 km from Hyderabad, the largest cacao growing region in India. One of the participants exclaims, “It reminds me of my summer holidays in my granny’s house.” While another is reminded of the treat his mother would give him whenever he sulked as a child. Bowls of polenta are served as palette cleansers as the participants also get to taste single-origin Dominican Republic Beans.

chocolatiers at the experiential centre

The tasting session is just one of the many features of Manam Kharkhana, an experiential centre that opened to the public and for retail sales on August 15. The classroom will host workshops designed to educate various customer groups about the world of specialty chocolate. “Discover, explore, and interact with cacao and chocolate in all its interpretations and forms,” says the entrepreneur. The next step is to make your own chocolate tablet in the Chocolate Lab right next to the classroom. This is homework everyone loves. One can pick from the milk and dark chocolate variants (different percentages), fruits, fillings and nuts. 

It takes the in-house chocolatiers an hour to merge it all together to create the flavour and christen it after you. Meanwhile, for enthusiasts, a tour of the factory awaits, where Muppala briefs the group about roasting, crushing, melting, blending, and ultimate flavour enhancement. The 30-minute tour is a sensory voyage where one can inhale the aroma of roasted beans and witness its transformation into velvety milkiness, culminating in a splendid piece of edible artwork.

From signature tablets (bars), bonbons (with fillings), truffles (with seasonal fruit) to rochers (with a hazelnut core), there is a vast gamut to pick from in the 10,100-sqft of space done up in white and chocolate brown. In less than three minutes of entering the experiential centre, one is bound to go into a ‘clickathon’, trying to capture the Insta-worthy wall chocolate fountain, or the chocolate being roasted in the machine.

“Indian cacao is quite versatile and can be crafted into single-farm series, single-origin series, creative fermentation series, signature blends, and our exciting range of infusions and inclusions,” adds Muppala. The experiential is experimental too. For example, there is the coconut and curry leaf bonbon, a single-origin West Godavari piece, made of crispy toasted coconut in a curry-leaf infused white chocolate ganache concealed in a matcha-infused creamy white chocolate shell. Their entire range is available to customers pan-India through their e-commerce platform by the same name.

The tour ends with the chocolate lab assistant handing over your customised crafted chocolate tablet. The boxes of these treats in your hands and chocolatey memories in your phone bring to a close the adventures in chocolate land. Visitors need to check the brand’s website or social media page to book experiential sessions.

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Whitecaps international school for bakery wins Junior Pastry Indian Cup 2023- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

Two young pastry chefs, one of them from the Whitecaps International School for Bakery of Bengaluru, have won the Junior Pastry Indian Cup 2023.

Organized by Hammer Publishers’ Pvt Ltd, in association with the Institute of Home Economics, Delhi University, at the India Expo Centre and Mart, Greater Noida, in August, the event saw Syed Sadia and Prerna Kothari emerge as the winning team from among seven others. 

Sadia and Kothari came together as a team of serendipity. While Sadia is a student of Whitecaps International, Kothari, from Kolkata, has finished her graduation from a college in Gurgaon, and is not affiliated with any institution. Chef Ravi Dhuria of Whitecaps International School, who mentored the winning team, was looking for a candidate to pair Sadia with. 

Kothari’s passion for baking and pastry-making made her a good fit for the team. Once they came together, it seemed like they had always been a team. “We just bonded,” the girls simply say.

Who are the young chefs they look up to? French chefs Amaury Guichon and Cedric Grolet are their heroes. Kothari explains that their standard of pastry-making, especially that of choc late-flavored pastries, has set a benchmark that the two young chefs aspire to meet. The two, however, agree that it was the guidance of their mentor, Chef Ravi Dhuria, that helped them in clinching the title.

All seven teams at the competition in Delhi were judged on artistic expression and technical skills, professional ethics, hygiene, and taste. 

The participants had to showcase their expertise across six challenges. The sugar showpiece challenge was the most difficult to crack. “Rather than using sucrose, we used isomalt,” explains Sadia. Isomalt is a sugar substitute and is made from sugar alcohol. Due to its low hygroscopic property—its aversion to absorbing moisture—it has to be handled with care. “We had to hand-sculpt the showpiece with hot isomalt. It could have caused us third-degree burns had we not been careful,” Kothari says.

‘Myths and Legends’ was the theme of the competition in Delhi. The winners sculpted the sugar showpiece as an Indian saint; for ideas for the other dishes, they drew from India’s legends. India will always be the pot they draw from, for ideas and inspiration “whatever be the theme of the finals”, they say. The girls are looking forward to trying pizza and gelato in Italy, where the finals will be held.

The Junior Pastry World Cup will be held during the SIGEP show in January 2024, in Rimini, Italy

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Destination flavour: Cookbook author Roopali Mohanti decodes Gorkha cuisine- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

Sometime in mid-2020, home chef Roopali Mohanti took to WhatsApp to share with close friends a recipe a day, comprising dishes from across the country—phoolkopir malai curry (cauliflower curry in coconut cream) from Kolkata, Purani Dilli yakhni pulao (a rice dish) from Delhi, potato saagu (a non-spicy potato curry) from the Konkan, and more. Three years down the line, the informally exchanged notes have evolved into an illustrated cookbook, Servings: Simple Yet Exotic.

Besides focusing on the usuals like murgh korma from Hyderabad and the Parsi salli boti, and international classics like the Moroccan shakshouka and the signature Italian pasta, tagiatelle aglio olio, the almost 500-page volume celebrates little-known cuisines from different corners of the country—from Chettinad to Odisha and Darjeeling. One such revelation is the Gorkha cuisine of Nepal, more popular in hilly pockets of West Bengal and Uttarakhand. The dishes are rustic, wholesome and fiery in parts.

“Growing up, a lot of activity in our household revolved around the kitchen. We moved to various towns and cities in India as my father was in the Indian Navy. My mother tried her hand at different cuisines, constantly learning from neighbours, cooks and house help. I learnt how simple cooking imparts a world of flavour to dishes like the spicy choila pork (grilled pork) or the very basic bhindi ko bhutuwa (stir-fried okra),” says the Delhi-based Mohanti, who trained in hotel management and worked with various hotel chains initially.

The Gorkha cuisine—originating in Nepal—has influences from neighbouring countries, largely China and Tibet. Little wonder then, the use of soy sauce is abundant, as is the practice of using fermented soy beans or kinema. From Tibet, the region borrowed the now-omnipresent momo and thukpa. In fact, most Gorkha thalis available in Indian restaurants come accompanied by tingmo—the Tibetan steamed bun. Quiz Mohanti about the lack of authenticity, and the self-confessed ramen-lover says no recipe is truly authentic, as “each person modifies it to make it their own”.

The technique of Gorkha cooking is quite basic—frying, steaming and grilling. Most vegetables are sautéed with a generous dose of Dalle Khursani chillies and Timur peppers that blaze the tongue. “An important part of the course is achaar—something very different from the Indian counterpart. For the Gorkhas, any dry preparation of vegetables is achaar; like the common golbedha ko achaar (tomato chutney),” says the 47-year-old author. 

Though the cuisine is largely non-vegetarian, some vegetarian preparations are also a mainstay at the table. You have the sadeko, or salad. There is also the isskuss, a kind of squash not commonly seen otherwise except in South India, and gundruk, a popular fermented and dehydrated leafy vegetable. “The scant availability of greens during the monsoon months has led to the use of the fermented version. Harsh winters in certain parts have also contributed to the use of meat in its dehydrated form,” says Mohanti, who believes the real master chefs are the everyday cooks, “moms and aunts who pour so much love into every meal”. Her book is one such offering of love.

SIKARNI (Gorkha dessert)
Ingredients

● Greek yoghurt: 350 ml
● Cream: 100 ml
●  Honey: 1 tbsp
●  Icing/castor sugar: 3-3½ tbsp
● Cinnamon powder: ½ tsp
●  Black pepper powder: ¼ tsp
● Nutmeg powder: ¼ tsp
●  Green cardamom powder: ½ tsp
●  Pistachios: ¼ cup, shelled and sliced thick
●  Raspberries: 6
●  Strawberries: 2-3, sliced
●  Saffron: 6-8 strands soaked in warm milk
● Rose petals: a few

Method
●  Mix yoghurt and cream 
●  Place a strainer over a bowl and layer it with a muslin cloth
● Transfer the mix into it. Keep in a cool place for 3 hours and then refrigerate for 9 hours.
●  Whisk the mixture with honey and sugar
●  Add the spices and saffron
● Add three-fourths of the pistachios. Chill for 6-8 hours.
● Scoop dollops onto a plate, top with remaining pistachios, rose petals and berries

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Doling out delicious designs for 25 years- The New Indian Express

By Express News Service

CHENNAI:  In 1998, The Cake World was established in Chennai by Chef Lawrence. He learned his skills of bakery and confectionery from Germany and China with various designs and varieties of cakes. Today The Cake World is a well-renowned exclusive retail cake shop with a reputation for its high-quality cakes. It is celebrating its silver jubilee year. 

Lingering taste, design and prompt customer service are its USP. Currently, they are operating across Chennai and Thiruvallur. The Cake World has established its product in the world of bakery and confectionery successfully.  Giving the best has been the team’s primary business motive and not compromising on the quality of the products helped The Cake World hold a place in the Asian Book of Records and Unico World Record. 

The Cake World’s signature products are the rich plum cake and customised designs of wedding cakes. They manufacture all bakery and confectionery products mainly a variety of pound cakes, Velvet cakes, cookies, donuts, muffins, tea cakes, and authentic cheese and mousse cakes. They craft their products with passion and vibrancy of the highest quality while making photo print cakes, fondant cakes, 3D cakes, bomb cakes. 

Continuously learning and upgrading their designs, The Cake World had partnered with The New Indian Express for the Madras Week celebrations as a cake partner.

For details, visit: The Cake World, Vanagaram. Call: 8939677977

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The story of Panchal Dairy- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

Revolutions are born from the need of the moment. Such is the story of Panchal Dairy, named after the Panchal Rabari pastoral community of Gujarat, which rears the indigenous Panchali sheep. Headed by 25-year-olds Arpan Kalotra and Bhimsinhbhai Ghanghal this artisan cheese-making facility in the village of Sayla, 136 km from Ahmedabad, is slowly making history. The area is also home to the Zalavadi goat. Another endemic breed of goats, Gohilwadi, is found in the neighbouring districts. 

Kalotra says as the demand for goat and sheep milk began to fall vis-à-vis bovine milk, the community, which largely rears goats and sheep, looked for ways to cut their losses. “Goat and sheep milk have a strong smell and taste compared to bovine milk, and also have a shorter shelf life. This impacted sales. Besides, over the years, many government rules and regulations reduced the grazing areas, making it difficult to maintain livestock. The younger generation started taking up small jobs in the cities. We had to look for a way out to self-sustain,” he says.

As luck would have it, in 2022, Sahjeevan Centre for Pastoralism (CfP) in Bhuj, Kutch district, took up the initiative to develop entrepreneurship among the pastoral youth. With a large livestock herding population in the region, Sahjeevan realised that there is a considerable potential for entrepreneurship linked to value-added products that could rejuvenate pastoral people’s livelihood. During the training programme, Kalotra and Ghanghal learnt about a dairy course at Anand—the milk capital of India—where they learned to convert milk into other products.

“We started the dairy to supplement our income with products like ice-creams, lassi, khoya and yoghurt. The biggest challenge, however, was that these items were highly perishable,” Ghanghal says. During the workshop, the duo learnt that cheese-making can be a worthwhile social enterprise as the product lasts longer. The idea was given shape by CfP, which agreed to support the two budding entrepreneurs in establishing a cheese-making unit in Surendranagar district of Saurashtra. 

CfP also brought on board one of the partners at Chennai-based Kase Cheese, Namrata Sundaresan—who is the only certified cheese instructor in India under the UK-based Academy of Cheese—to train them. She says, “It took 18 months, wherein they were trained on each product, almost on a monthly basis, resulting in 12 different kinds of cheese. The product mix includes specialties like Chevre, Halloumi, Feta and the classic Goat Tomme, which is an Alpine-style cheese.” 

Chevre

The fact that there are close to 3,500 goat- and sheep-herding households in the region made it easier for the two entrepreneurs to source milk from a shipping point, making Sayla the perfect location for a goat and sheep cheese creamery. While goat cheese is more crumbly, sheep cheese is more cohesive. Also, the quantity of sheep cheese is far less and the price is higher as the animal only breeds only once a year during winters, so herders can only get the milk after lambing.

Kalotra and Ghanghal started production in 2022, selling the cheese at exhibitions and farmers’ markets. “With the experience we have got, we are now ready to work with retail markets and the catering sector to supply the cheese,” they say, as they mull creating an ‘experience centre’ at Sayla. “We have had students from hotel management and culinary institutes visiting us. Tourists also come to see the factory,” says Kalotra, adding, “Visitors can experience the whole process, which begins less than four hours after the milking of goats and sheep.” What started with trying to self-sustain the herding community has now evolved into the business being a part of the burgeoning Indian cheese market, which is expected to reach `262.6 billion by 2028.

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Dumpling delight- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

CHENNAI: As Vinayakar Chaturthi is just around the corner, move over from your usual sweet and savoury kozhukattais, and indulge in these sumptuous alternative recipes. Home chefs offer a unique list of these wrapped wonders this festive season.

Mango Modak
By Indira Narayan
Ingredients

Cashew-nut powder: 1 cup
Mango pulp: 1/2 a cup
Milk powder: 1/2 a cup
Powdered sugar: 2 tbsp (optional) Ghee: 1 tbsp
Saffron threads: A pinch soaked in 1 tbsp of milk for garnish
Method
Mix all the ingredients together in a heavy-bottomed pan.
Heat the pan in low flame and stir the mixture for a while.
Keep adding ghee at regular intervals and continue stirring, until the mixture rolls into a ball. Once it rolls into a ball, take it out and let it cool down. Pour the mixture into a modak mould to give it the desired shape and take it out. Finally, garnish the prepared modak with saffron.

Pandan Modak

By Kiran G Thomas
Ingredients
Filling

Grated coconut: 2 cups
Jaggery: 1 cup, Cardamom: 4, Nutmeg: a pinch
Ghee: 1 tsp, Pandan leaves extract: 2 tsp
Outer cover
Rice flour: 1 cup
Water: 1 cup, Salt: a pinch
Ghee: 1 tsp + 1 tsp for greasing
METHOD
Add ghee to a hot pan. Sauté jaggery, and coconut and mix well till it thickens. Add cardamom and nutmeg.
Boil water with salt and ghee. Mix in the flour. Knead into a soft non-sticky dough when hot. Mix the pandan leaves extract thoroughly. Divide the dough into 11 balls. Cover with a damp cloth.
Spread each dough and place the coconut filling. Bring the corners together to make pleats. Steam for 10-12 minutes. Remove after 5 minutes and serve.

Saffron Modak
By Kiran G Thomas
Ingredients

Filling
Grated coconut: 2 cups
Jaggery: 1 cup, Cardamom: 4
Nutmeg: a pinch
Ghee: 1 tsp, Saffron: 2 tsp
Outer cover
Rice flour: 1 cup
Water: 1 cup
Salt: a pinch
Ghee: 1 tsp + 1tsp for greasing
Method
Add ghee to a hot pan. Sauté jaggery, coconut, and saffron until they blend well and turn thick. Do not overcook. Excess moisture should not be there in the pan. Add cardamom and nutmeg and turn off the stove.
Boil 1 cup of water with salt and ghee. Add the flour and give a good mix. When it is hot knead it into a soft non-sticky yet smooth crack-free dough. Sprinkle with hot water. Divide the dough to make 11 equal-sized balls. Cover it with a damp cloth.

Once the coconut filling has cooled down, take each ball to your palm and smoothen it to a crack-free softball.

Make a dent in a circular dough. Then spread the dough to make a thin discussing thumb and forefinger. Make pleats at a distance of 1/2 inch on the outer side of the disc. Place the coconut in the centre. Bring the pleats and join them carefully. Steam them in a steam basket in a pressure cooker for 10 to 12 minutes. After 5 minutes remove them and keep them in the tray.

Dry Fruits  Modak

By Parul Bhatt

 Ingredients
Figs: 6, Seedless dates: 8 
Almonds: 15-16, Walnuts: 1 tsp 
Pistachios: 5
Cashewnuts: 10  
Rose water: 1.5 tbsp 
Khus Khus: 1 tsp
Desiccated coconut: 1 tsp 
Ghee: 1 tbsp, Raisins: 10 

Cardamom powder: 1 tsp 
Cinnamon powder: ¼ tsp 
Method  
Put the nuts in a food processor. Process them into a slightly coarse powder. Set them aside.
Add the pitted dates, figs, and rose water to the processor and blitz them until they come together like soft dough.
In a large bowl, combine all the ingredients. Grease the modak mould with ghee.
Fill the dough mixture into the mould, close it, and trim off excess dough. Gently unmould and it is ready to be served.

Coconut Rose Modak

By Indira Narayan
Ingredients

Desiccated coconut: 1/4 cups
Condensed milk: 1/2 cup
Beetroot juice: 1/2 tsp
Cardamom powder: a pinch
Rose essence: 1/4 tsp
Pistachio (crushed)
Ghee: 2 tbsp
Method
Heat condensed milk, coconut and beetroot juice in a heavy bottom pan. Cook on low flame and stir till it comes together.
Add a little ghee and when it becomes like a ball, switch off the stove.
Grease the modak mould with ghee. Pinch a small portion of the dough and push it from the bottom. Press tightly. Gently open the modak mould.
Roll the modak over the crushed pistachios.

 (Inputs by Archita Raghu, Diya Maria George and Sonu M Kothari)

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Cakes, bakes and beyond- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

CHENNAI: For most of us, celebrations are synonymous with cutting cakes. The often round creations, richly spongy with fruits or cream, iced and decorated with different layers have unquestionably occupied our minds for a long time. Cracking the code of introducing variations within cakes, even linking ice-cream flavours with cakes for more than three decades is Chennai’s Cakewalk Cafe. The journey from September 3, 1990 wasn’t a cakewalk for the founder J Srinivasan and his general manager Raji Paul. Now, the team has grown, as Srinivasan’s daughters, Pooja Srinivasan and Kavya Srinivasan, have also taken charge of the business and the cafe on Kothari Road offers a bunch of items ranging from pizzas, pastas, and French fries to lasagna and steaks. The sisters walk CE through their journey and their two-month-old cafe. 

A rustic serve
In David Burton’s The Raj at the Table, he describes cake-baking as a tricky and finicky affair, as there is an unavailability of quality flour and yeast. Cakewalk solved this issue first. “Everything is made in-house from scratch. Pizza dough is freshly fermented in the upstairs bakery of the cafe. Most of the products are locally sourced. Everything is also halal,” says Pooja, adding that chocolates are imported as the chocolate industry in India is nascent. 

Initially, the place was called Crisp Cafe, with an outlet in Bengaluru too, where cakes took centre stage. Recently, the brand was renamed Cakewalk Cafe and the store underwent a makeover. The bricks, carefully assembled inside and outside, give a rustic, cozy ambience. The brown-white theme provides a warm and inviting atmosphere, setting the stage for a memorable culinary journey. Speaking about her inspiration for designing the cafe, Kavya who studied architecture in Australia and did the interiors shares, “My style and interest is in contemporary chic interiors which is why I wanted to showcase that through my own cafe project. I kept in mind the current trend of the youth and expressed it through exciting corners.”  

Even during the pandemic, the cafe ran with the sincere customer base it has cultivated over the years. Speaking about the challenges they faced, Raji says, “Aligning with the customer mindset and constantly updating ourselves has been a challenge but, we have managed to do that. Nowadays, customers have more knowledge about food and its authentic taste so we cannot mimic items.” Concurring Pooja shares, “Our staff are being trained and updated every 15 days to stick to the regulations of FSSAI. We give preference to hygiene and quality over everything else.”

On the menu
Over the years, even though the menu has undergone a lot of changes, a few items continue to be the legacy of the cafe. Pooja shares that their red velvet pancakes are a must-try. Their menu is a delicious combination of traditional Indian food and international cuisine. Cakewalk Cafe also provides savoury delicacies that are as alluring, as if the sweet temptations weren’t enough. The Classic Marg Pizza captures the essence of traditional Italian flavours with its smoothly crisp dough, toppings of mozzarella cheese, fresh basil, and tangy pizza sauce. Every bite delivers a rush of gratifying cheese bliss.

We begin with a seemingly simple Fried Buttermilk Chicken with Podi Mayo. The homemade Podi Mayo complements the buttermilk marinade’s acidic and subtly creamy undertone. It is an instant hit when traditional Indian flavours are combined with Western elements. 

Next up is the Mutton Kheema Tapas where the mutton is cooked precisely with a combination of fragrant spices that resulted in a flavour explosion in every bite. The tapas are presented on crisp bread, which gives the food a delicious crunch. It has the ideal blend of spiciness and subtlety, leaving me wanting more. 

For the health-conscious diners, the Pesto with Grilled Vegetables is a good option. Pooja adds, “Our vegetarian dishes are purely vegetarian and don’t contain egg.” The dish is a blend of grilled broccoli and other vegetables topped with a generous slathering of in-house pesto sauce. 

We end the meal with the rich and velvety chocolate truffle that is simply melt-in-your-mouth, releasing an intense burst of gooey goodness. For those seeking a harmonious blend of coffee and dessert, the Affogato Trifle is a must-try. It boasts layers of chocolate sponge, coffee caramel, and vanilla mousse, all crowned with a generous scoop of ice cream and a shot of espresso. 

The cafe has also recently launched a menu of weekend breakfast which has both vegetarian and non-vegetarian options. They are also available on all food delivery platforms. For details, follow @cakewalk1990 on Instagram. 

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Flavours from the Chettinad kitchens- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

CHENNAI: Chettinad cuisine, one of the most renowned cuisines of Tamil Nadu, is linked to a community called Nattukottai Chettiar (Nagarathar) from the Chettinad (Sivagangai) region. History tells us that Nagarathars who initially lived around the modern-day Poompuhar relocated inland to the hot, dry and arid Sivagangai region due to natural calamities. The Chettiars didn’t stop there and as traders and mercantile bankers, they started to travel and trade with Malabar region, Calcutta, Ceylon (Sri Lanka), Burma and Malay states (Malaysia, Singapore).

The explorations brought changes in their lifestyle, food and economy. The Chettiars who were traditionally vegetarians were introduced to meat, fish, pepper, red rice and spices because of their life beyond the Chettinad.

Their proximity with the Britishers and the westernisation of their palate gave birth to the Butler cuisine (Anglo-Indian-British food with Indian spices), a forerunner of modern-day fusion food. Dishes like mutton chops, mulligatwany soup and cutlets are examples. In addition to accumulating wealth, local spices and food habits, the Chettiars also helped to boost the economy by contributing to the paddy cultivation in Burma, reviving coffee plantations in Sri Lanka and so on. 

Chettinad food is an amalgamation of both subtle and strong flavours. The ancient Tamil saying ‘One is lucky to eat like a Chettiar’ is happily vouched for by the community. A typical Chettinad meal is cooked by a set of cooks under the watchful supervision of aachis and is served on a banana leaf. The dishes are served in a clockwise direction, in odd numbers. Each spicy dish is interspersed with a subtly flavoured dish to cool the system. Spicy dishes give way to the piquancy of a sour tamarind curry. Hence, there is a progression of flavours and this gives the diner an unforgettable gastronomic experience.

The traditional Chettinad dishes mostly use locally sourced spices like kalpasi (stone flower), fennel seeds, Marathi moggu and pepper that impart a unique flavour. The adoption of foreign techniques for preservation, including sun drying for meat and vegetables, pickling in brine, has enriched their culinary repertoire.

The aachis oversee the careful roasting and grinding of spices, in stone grinders, and chopping of vegetables with aruvamanai and every kitchen in a Chettiar home is equipped with olden-day equipment like aatukal, ammikal, yanthiram, ulakkai and kunthani. A typical meal includes a varuval like baby potato roast, a kootu (lentil curry), urundai, masiyal (mash), mandi (curry), kolambu like paruppu urundai kulambu, rasam, dangar chutney which are served with rice and palagaarams (appam or paniyaram). 

The famous non-vegetarian dishes include nandu rasam, mutton uppukari, chicken pepper masala, kadai roast. Surprisingly, there is no such dish called Chettinad chicken as it is an adaptation of their pepper chicken. Multiple traditional sweets like ukkarai, payasam, kavuniarisi and Butler desserts like bread and butter pudding and mousse provide a sweet ending to a Chettinad feast.

Vazhappoo/Saiva meen kolambu

Tadka
Mustard seeds: 1/2 tsp
Urad dal: 1/2 tsp
Fenugreek seeds and fennel seeds: 1/2 tsp each, Gingelly oil: 3 tbsp
 Paste
Coconut: 3 tbsp
Cashews: 6

Ingredients 
Banana flower: 1 bunch, Besan: 3 tbsp
Rice flour: 1 tbsp
Baking soda: 1 pinch
Shallots: 10, Garlic: 10
Tomato: 2
Tamarind: 1 marble-sized
Chilli powder:  1 tsp
Coriander powder: 2 tsp, Turmeric: 1/2tsp

Clean the banana flower and boil it for three minutes. Make a batter with besan, rice flour, salt, baking soda and chilli powder. Dip flowers into the batter for two seconds and fry till they turn golden. Heat oil and add the tadka ingredients and then add the curry leaves and garlic. After a minute, add shallots, green chilli and saute. Add tomatoes, dry spice powders and fry till the oil separates. Now, add the tamarind water, salt and cook for five minutes. Add the coconut paste and cook for five more minutes. Remove from the flame, add the fried flowers and serve after 10 minutes with hot rice.

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The Chutney chronicles- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

CHENNAI: Blandness has no place in Indian cuisine. That’s precisely why each dish if not already bubbling with flavours, is also accompanied by a ramekin of chutney, a popular condiment that’s relied upon to add that extra oomph to a meal.

From thick to thin, crunchy to smooth, spicy to sweet, chutney’s versatility is unmatched. In the south, it is coconut chutney that reigns supreme. Can you imagine savouring a ‘South Indian’ breakfast without it? There are many versions of coconut chutney, featuring ingredients like red and green chillies, mint, onion, coriander, and garlic.

Long back, this condiment had been made using just chilli and salt. Today, even fish is an ingredient in one of the popular chutneys across several states including Tamil Nadu. 

As you travel across this state, the culinary tapestry unfurls an astonishing array of unique chutneys. Each state, each community, and indeed every household has its own chutney variety, usually handed carefully down through generations. Here, TNIE brings you a delectable mix of chutneys from across the country.

(Inputs from Diya Maria George)

Chutney’s origin
Interestingly, the word chutney comes from the Sanskrit word ‘chatni’, which means to lick.

A tangy fusion 
Major Grey’s Chutney is a renowned sweet and tangy condiment, rich in ingredients like mangoes, raisins, tamarind, and an assortment of spices. It is believed to have been crafted by Major Grey, a British army officer in India, who later introduced the recipe to England. A product of cultural exchange and fusion during the colonial days, Major Grey’s chutney is a popular condiment in the West.

Mango chutney

by Apoorva Nambiar Gujarat

Ingredients
Raw mango/semi-ripe mango: 2
Jaggery: ¼ to ½ cup
Salt: ½ tsp, as per taste
Red chilli powder: ½ to 1 tsp, as per taste
Roasted cumin & coriander powder: ½ tsp

Method
Immerse raw mangoes in water for around 20-30 minutes to lessen their inherent heat. After patting dry, coarsely chop them, keeping the skin on. Incorporate dry spices, salt, and jaggery. Pulse in a blender several times until achieving the preferred consistency. Mix well. Refrigerate it in an airtight container.

Red ant chutney

Chhattisgarh
The kai or chapra chutney, made by crushing red weaver ants, is a staple among the tribal community of Chhattisgarh. In the Mayurbhanj region, these ants are found in abundance. They are collected, dried, and ground into a mix, blending ingredients like tomatoes, coriander, garlic, ginger, chilli, salt and a touch of sugar. The chutney, which comes in a vibrant orange paste, is renowned for its intense heat and spice. “It is hot, but it is absolutely delicious,” celebrity chef Gordon Ramsey remarked after trying the chutney on his visit to India. Since then, this chutney has gained a lot of attention from all corners of the world.

Smoked brinjal chutney

Ingredients
Big round brinjal/aubergine: 1
Red chilli: 7 to 8
Tamarind: ½ tsp, tightly packed
Mustard: ¾ tbsp
Coconut, scraped: 2 to 3 tbsp
Asafoetida: 1/8 tsp
Salt as needed
Coconut oil: 2 tsp
Curry leaves: 1 sprig

Method: Evenly oil the brinjal and then roast it on a skewer over a medium flame, turning it occasionally for a consistent cook. Once its skin is charred and the inside is tender, it’s ready. After cooking, the brinjal should easily detach from the skewer and be left to cool. If roasted correctly, its skin will come off without trouble. Separately, roast mustard seeds and red chillies until the mustard crackles, and then introduce coconut for a fragrant mix. First, blend the chillies and tamarind. Next, add the brinjal, coconut, mustard, and salt, pulsing just enough to break the mustard seeds into chunks. Add water if necessary. Finish by heating oil, adding curry leaves and asafoetida for seasoning.

By Rajeshwari Vijayanand

Doon chetin (Kashmir walnut chutney by Indiediet)

Kashmir
Ingredients

Walnuts: 50g
Hung curd: 1/2 cup
Green chilli: 2 to 3 (de-seeded)
Onion: 1 tbsp (chopped)
Shahi jeera (black cumin): 1/4 tsp
Dried mint leaves: 1 tsp
Coriander leaves: 1 tbsp (chopped)
Lime juice: of 1/2 lime
Kashmiri red chilli powder: 1 tsp
Salt as needed
Garlic: 1 clove

Method
Soak the walnuts in boiling water for about 20 minutes. Then coarse grind the ingredients (except for lime juice and Kashmiri red chilli powder). We can use the pulse grinding option in the mixer/grinder for this. This can be ground to be fine paste also, as per your requirement. Then squeeze the lime to it and sprinkle the Kashmiri red chilli powder. Refrigerate the chutney for longer use.

Akhuni or axone chutney

Nagaland
Ingredients

Fresh green chilli: 5 to 6
Tomato: 1
Fresh ginger: 1”
Axone paste (fermented soyabean) : 1 tbsp
Salt to taste

Method
First, roast the chillies over the stove, ensuring they have holes punched in beforehand. Similarly, roast tomatoes, either by the fireplace or on a stove-top grill, turning them for even cooking. After roasting, peel and set aside the tomatoes. Slice the ginger flat for easy mashing. Using a mortar and pestle, begin mashing the chilli with salt. Incorporate the tomatoes, followed by ginger, and finish with axone paste. Ensure all components blend seamlessly into a smooth mixture.

Bhang chutney

Uttarakhand
Bhang ki chutney, which originated in Uttarakhand, is crafted using cannabis seeds. While the plant is often associated with psychedelic effects, the seeds and their resultant chutney lack these properties. Instead, they are nutrient-rich and believed to aid digestion and metabolism.

Thenga chuttaracha chammanthi

Kerala By Indiediet
Ingredients

Fresh coconut: flesh of 1/2 of a coconut
Dried red chilli: 5 to 8
Tamarind: small lime sized
Shallots: 4 to 5
Ginger: 1/2 piece
Curry leaves: a handful
Salt as needed

Method: Roughly chop the fresh coconut. You can even roast it over fire using any holder. Roast till black spots appear on it. Similarly, roast the dried red chilies also. Next, roast the shallots till the colour fades. Using a grinder, coarse grind all the ingredients together without adding any water.  After grinding, transfer it into any container. Add few curry leaves and mix well with your hands. Then mould it into ball shape.

Ulli kaara chutney By Lakshmi Sundar

Tamil Nadu
Ingredients

Oil: 3 tbsp
Cumin seeds: 1/2 tsp
Garlic pods: 12
Onion: 3 (cut into thin slices), 
Red chilli powder: 2 tbsp
Kashmiri chilli powder: 1 tsp (optional)
Turmeric powder: 1/2 tsp
Tamarind: gooseberry sized, Salt: 1 tsp
Coriander leaves: 1/4 cup (tightly packed) 

Method: Soak tamarind in 1/3 cup of water for 10 minutes. Heat oil in a pan, add cumin seeds and let it crackle. Now add garlic pods and sauté till they turn light brown. Add your sliced onions and sauté till the onions turn translucent. Add the soaked tamarind along with water and mix everything well. Now add chilli powder, turmeric powder and sauté 1-2 minutes. Finally, add coriander leaves, mix well and switch off the flame. Transfer the contents to a plate and allow it to cool completely. Add it to a blender and grind coarsly without adding water.

Khejur chutney

By Madhurima Chowdhari

West Bengal
Ingredients

Tomatoes (roughly chopped): 8 to 10
Dates (chopped): 
1/4 cup, Sugar: ¼ cup
Cashews: 7 to 8 (optional)
Panch phoron*: 1 tbsp
Dried red chilli: 1
Turmeric powder: 1 tsp
Salt as needed
Mustard oil: 2 tbsp
*Panch phoron is a mix of cumin seeds, fennel seeds, onion seeds, fenugreek seeds and mustard seeds. 

Method
Warm the oil until it produces smoke, then reduce the heat. Infuse the oil with panch phoron and dried chilli. Add tomatoes, turmeric, and salt when the fenugreek seeds turn brown. Blend well, cover, and let it simmer until the tomatoes are soft; roughly 10-12 minutes. Add hot water, if needed. Once pulpy, incorporate sugar, dates, and cashews, and cook until the chutney thickens. Serve once cooled to room temperature.

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Peeling the many layers of parathas across India- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

A very happy New Year to you, dear readers! It’ll soon be a year since I restarted Delectable Delhi—here to speak about all things Delhi, in food. Over months, I’ve brought to you poignant stories from Kashmir, introduced home chefs who make for some of this city’s best food secrets, and shared stories that ring in comfort and warmth. Going ahead, I’ll hopefully do more of it—only even better!

For almost all of the past month, we collectively complained about the lack of ‘December feels’ as Delhi NCR didn’t exactly see the kind of winters that we’re used to. But, come January, and the temperatures have dipped! The cold wave has set in and looks like it is here to stay for a while.

Winters in North India are a food lover’s delight. Personally, my go-to meals in these

chilly months are hot, stuffed parathas, served with a dollop of homemade butter, seasonal pickle and some curd. 

Malabar parotta

I wake up every morning excitedly and make my way to the kitchen to brew a cup of tea, and alongside, check out what vegetables sit in the box in the refrigerator. This, in turn, gives the inclination of what paratha they be turned into. The good ol’ aloo paratha is usually given a break till the new harvest of potatoes begin to show up in the market towards mid-December. The sweetish cauliflower is turned into gobhi paratha, the radish into spicy mooli paratha, and then there’s always the creamy and comforting paneer paratha. Oh, and did I mention the leftover dal turned into parathas? So, there’s that too. The sizzle of the paratha on a hot tawa is, in fact, my winter love song!

It is believed that the parathas came to India from West Asia. Sonal Ved writes in her book Whose Samosa Is It Anyway? that the actual name for paratha is ‘Waraqi’ in Persian—owing to the technique of kneading the dough with milk and having multiple layers to it that can be peeled. This fundamental recipe is consistent with the parotta from Kerala, too.

Up north, a close cousin to the delectable Malabar parotta is the laccha paratha—with its many layers. But, the parotta is made of maida with an addition of oil, and is left to leaven for a long time. Personally, I love having Malabar parotta with a spicy egg curry, and sometimes also shred it to make it like a kotthu parotta—yes, yet another variety of it!

When I got married and went to Kolkata to my husband’s hometown, I discovered the Mughlai paratha. This egg-based paratha was made popular by the once-uber-popular Anadi Cabin—an iconic eatery with centuries of stories to tell. Made of maida, the paratha is cooked and then a masala made of ginger, garlic, sliced onions and green chilies is added to it, along with beaten eggs. Even today, it remains a hearty, wholesome meal-for-one that the ‘City of Joy’ swears by!

You’d likely imagine by now that I find plenty of joy in savouring parathas—also the kind of bread that I like. This versatile base makes it to more Indian dishes than what you may imagine, and can even be savoured on its own. It is also as ubiquitous to Delhi as rajma-chawal, with landmark joints making localities popular on their own accord! Not only is it a quick meal that’s easy to prepare—it is also economical and accessible for all.

In fact, TasteAtlas ranked the Indian Roti and all its flatbread variants, which includes parathas, as the fourth most popular street food around the world. If one has to believe the crowds outside Murthal on Grand Trunk Road, who line up for parathas even at odd hours of the night, then one wouldn’t doubt an Indian’s love for their parathas of all types, at all! 
 

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Around the world in a hundred dishes- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

A cut-out of a London double-decker bus beckons diners to ride straight into the restaurant and on a miniature Hollywood Walk of Fame. Walk a few more steps and you feel like you have landed in New York. From teppanyaki to fish and chips, Crowne Plaza’s Edesia is bringing its diners some world-famous street food as part of the Around the Globe Food Fiesta.

The all-day dining restaurant at Okhla has just celebrated World Tourism Day with a cyclic menu that features iconic dishes from different countries and inventive twists to well-known street eats. TMS went to check out their dinner menu on a weekend.

Each of the makeshift stalls put up around the dining area has delicacies to offer. At the Lebanese shawarma stall, while the chicken can be seen on the traditional rotating spit, the buns seem to resemble the American burger buns, rather than the pita bread-like wraps that are more commonly used to serve shawarmas in India. 

“The wrap-like shawarmas are Middle Eastern in origin. These bun-like shawarmas are exclusively Lebanese,” explains Ashutosh Bisht, the executive sous chef and the curator of the festival. The Bunny Chow and Fish and Chips deserve a special mention. While the African Bunny Chow will remind diners of the Indian pav bhaji, fish and chips, ubiquitous on London streets and in its pubs, is a welcome addition to the street food menu here. Edesia’s version is served in recycled bamboo papercones, rather than newspapers. 

The food gets ‘Oriental’ further on, with stalls of Bap Burgers and Okonomiyaki. The Bap Burger is an innovative twist from the chefs of Edesia, with bap – Korean for rice – replacing the burger buns around the patty. Okonomiyaki, a savoury pancake from Japan, is a delicious dish–‘Okonomi’ translates to ‘as you like’ in Japanese and ‘yaki’ means ‘grilled’. The dish is prepared with a variety of ingredients and can be served in both vegetarian and non-vegetarian options. The Okonomiyaki is served with a side of Japanese mayonnaise and okonomiyaki sauce.

Belen Cabana from Galicia, Spain, was at the fiesta with her friends. She likes the festival for the diversity of the food offered. Her favourite? “It would have to be the barbecue stall that is serving different chicken and lamb,” she says.  Those who are not very experimental can try the best street food that India has to offer. There is a stall dedicated completely to panipuris, chaats and tikkis. The Indian influence continues in the dessert section too. While granita is originally an Italian dish, its method of preparation will draw comparisons to the Indian chuski. 

Nikhil Bhatia, chef-in-charge of Edesia, says, “Granita is basically frozen fruits. Fruits are cut into pieces, frozen overnight, and then the ice shavings are collected in a cup to make granita.” While the name sounds unfamiliar, the dessert is prepared by chuski makers from around India, in the much familiar chuski machines.

However, the most popular stall amongst the guests was the Turkish ice-cream cart. Turkish ice-cream is made from goat’s milk, resulting in a texture that is thicker and chewier than ice-cream made of cow milk. But it was the vendor’s quick and gravity-defying tricks with the ice-cream scoops and cones that made him a hit with the guests. In the week ahead, Edesia is planning meals around khao suey, doner kebabs and more. “The Turkish ice-cream will of course be a constant,” says Chef Asutosh with a laugh.
 

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Raising the bar: Goa’s newest high-energy space ‘Barfly’- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

Cracking the code to Goa’s pulsating food and beverage space is no mean feat. A few years ago, entrepreneurs Karrtik Dhingra, siblings Tarun and Bipin Sibal, and Shyaam Khurana broke the convention with Titlie Goa, a popular beachfront culinary bar synonymous with collaborative cuisine and craft cocktails. The same team is now back with a new offering—Barfly—in the popular neighbourhood of Assagao in north Goa.

“The term ‘barfly’ typically refers to an individual who frequents a bar to socialise over drinks,” says Karrtik. Indeed, the name is fitting for a space set in an expansive 150-year-old Portuguese-Goan bungalow that marries old-world charm with a contemporary aesthetic. Prepare to surprise yourself with its storytelling, perfectly articulated through its fusion of cultures and ingredients. There are inter-connected rooms that complement different moods—a space for lazy indulgences of a lingering meal, a wine room for connoisseurs, a romantic spotlit by candles perfect for couples, glass-roofed dining spaces, wide verandas that take you back in time, and more.

Bipin Sibal, Tarun Sibal, Karrtik Dhingra and Shyaam Khurana

The centrepiece at Barfly are its two bars: the Agave Bar, and the Tales from the Villa: Elevated Classics. Both offer concoctions designed by Vikram Achanta of Tulleeho, a leading beverage training and education platform. The agave bar is a first-of-its-kind in Goa, inspired by the growing trend of tequila, mezcal and agave spirits across the world. Its menu is experimental but rewarding, with beverages like the El Gusano that fuses smoky mezcal with the rich depth of bourbon and clarified watermelon, topped with a dash of soy. Caprese is another intriguing option that offers a ‘salad in a glass experience’—a combination of reposado, cherry tomatoes and basil left overnight. “From the sheer quality of the liquid, its versatility to its premium nature, the agave spirit category has a lot to offer,” shares chef-entrepreneur Tarun.

If agave is rather experimental for the palate, there’s the charming Tales from the Villa bar that is a nod to classics, albeit with a twist. Here, one can savour the Caramel Milk Punch, a delightful reinterpretation of a classic libation infused with the richness of caramel. Negroni lovers can sample the Melon Negroni that infuses Bulldog gin with green melons. “Today, Goa stands as a melting pot of cultures where traditions intertwine with modernity. We elevate classic cocktails with modern techniques, inspired by multiple stories,” reiterates Tarun.

Barfly facade

The eclectic cocktail menu pairs well with Barfly’s food guided by the creative direction of chefs Tarun and Viraf Patel. It focuses on continental fare, incorporating European flavours, and a touch of mainland America alongside the nuances from the southern hemisphere. Relish the mouthwatering sourdough tartines with combinations like avocado, goat cheese, guava compote, greens and lime, followed by salads to small plates like the seafood ajillo and the hummus with French onion glaze and whole wheat pita. For mains, large plates like the lobster bisque fettucini, barley risotto with seasonal vegetables are comforting. Unlike many bars, Barfly has a dessert menu with six options. The Bananamisu is definitely something one shouldn’t miss.

There’s more in the offing. Come October Barfly plans to open the Sunday Graze—a large communal table for grazing that’s perfect for indulgent brunches. 

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The big cheese of gurugram- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

George Bernard Shaw had said with his typical Irish sense of humour: “There is no love more sincere than the love of food.” It certainly was the case for the original Gurgaon Foodie, founder and marketing professional, Aalok Wadhwa. Soon, he was joined by former banker Shefali Saxena and marketing professional Shivendu Mittal, and the group, as we now know it, was formed.

Their collective effort led to the growth of Gurgaon Foodie, a private Facebook group of food ‘critics’, cooks, enthusiasts, diners and followers. Members come together often — on Facebook and off it — since 2012, and have lively conversations and interventions on matters culinary. It has drawn people from outside Gurugram as well.

Manisha Mukherji’s Chicken Kalimirch

Since then, the group has come a long way. Initially, the group rated eateries in the vicinity of their homes. As its member population became more diverse, the scope of the group’s restaurant ‘reviews’ began to spread across the whole country. “We call it reviews now, it wasn’t a review when we started,” says Mittal.

“If somebody went to a nice place to eat and wanted others to know about it, they would start talking about it. People would question them in the comments and the discussion would revolve around that particular eatery,” he adds. They also celebrated milestones of the group. From a group of a hundred members in the first few days, it currently boasts of nearly 90,000 members on Facebook.

The group does have a lot to celebrate, setting an example in living well, and are certainly not shy of putting up videos and photos, almost on a daily basis, of what they are putting on their plate. Gyaneshwari Sharma, a homemaker who joined the group in 2019, says the group’s popularity is due to its dedication to building a community as it is to review restaurants.

“Food is at the centre of the group but there is also a beautiful community feel to it. I meet fellow foodies regularly and we enjoy our discussions on food,” she says. However, what she loves most about the group is its way of functioning. “All Gurgaon Foodie events are paid for. We don’t believe in eating free food. Only if a restaurant or an establishment wishes to host the top contributors, do we have everything on the house,” she explains.

Not critics, learners
Yet, most members of the group refuse to be called critics. They say they have no food ideologies. Most joined the group to learn about great food options and to pen their thoughts on what they ate and where in Delhi-NCR and around the world.

A kind of consumer writing back on food they were served, what they liked, what they didn’t. It has members from different walks of life – bankers to homemakers — and on the FB page, opinion is free. It is not uncommon to find that a majority opinion about a culinary experience, whether in a restaurant or at home, has been dissed by another member.

Sometimes they also re-review a restaurant to revisit an earlier opinion. Or look back at the city they may have come from, whose food they now recreate in their kitchens. The group is also a place for budding chefs. Durba Ray, a top contributor, says she regularly follows the social media accounts of celebrity chefs like Nigella Lawson, Marion Gats by, Ranveer Brar and Sanjeev Kapoor “to see if they have posted any new recipes. Then, I try to recreate them in my own kitchen and post on the group”.

At a Gurgaon Foodie event

Foodie awards
The group is guided by a democratic spirit. The opinion of the members matter. Its founders thought the best way to honour the popular choices would be to present them with an award – and thus started the Gurgaon Foodie awards in April, 2015. There are separate nominations for restaurants, bakeries and cafés. Contributors, too , are awarded on the basis of popular choice.

Incidentally, Gyaneshwari Sharma won the Top Contributor Award— a certificate that can be displayed virtually and physically— for 2022, for her consistent contribution to the group. Which restaurant gets which position is not just up to the founding members. The eateries which get mentioned the most in the year are nominated and an open poll in the FB group decides the winners.

Recent joinee Manisha Mukherji says reviews posted on the group gets noticed throughout Delhi-NCR, Ghaziabad, Faridabad and Noida. “Such is the influence of Gurgaon Foodie that I have seen restaurants owning up to negative reviews,” she says with a touch of pride. Ray says that she was shocked to find fans of her contributions in Bengaluru.

“I was at an event in Bengaluru when a few people came up to me and said that they follow my posts on Gurgaon Foodie. I know that there are some fans overseas too!” she says. As the group gears up for Gurgaon Foodie Awards 2023, scheduled to be held in January 2024, not only the members but the restaurants in Delhi-NCR too, wait with bated breath to know the results. But the competition is not too intense. After all, it is all for the love of food!

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Just dough it- The New Indian Express

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On the outskirts of Ahmedabad is a 35,000 sq ft factory that since last year has been open to visitors. But 2023, is an extra special year for the 250- odd member team of The Baker’s Dozen. “We celebrate a decade this year,” says founder Aditi Handa who set up the operation with her husband Sneh Jain. They started with four bakers and a small kitchen in Mumbai back in 2013. And have since, expanded their vision with a menu that covers everything from pav to pizza bases to sandwich bread, made with the goodness of sourdough; apart from cookies, crackers, dips and nut butter. We get a taste of some of the hot-sellers on the list like the focaccia made with farm-fresh cherry tomatoes before we get our white aprons on for the much-awaited tour.

Inside, we find ourselves navigating through a series of rooms that line up the steps of the preparation process.

Knead to know
First up, a holding room where raw materials are stored and a basic quality check needs to be passed. Then, we head to a ‘raw materials store’ where a myriad of flours (brown rice, jowar, whole wheat and ragi) are being measured, sifted and scaled to match specific recipes. In the chiller, there is a fresh stock of sunflower seeds that will be kneaded into a batch of multigrain loaves later in the day. “We also keep some ingredients in colour- coded crates to avoid allergies,” explains Akansha, our tour guide.

She points at a rack that has an assortment of nuts and interestingly, egg powder. “We found handling eggs quite a tedious process between the washing and the possibility of chipped shells, and so we made a switch to egg powder. The taste is just as good and it’s a whole lot more convenient,” Aditi elaborates, giving us an insight into one of the many nuances of what makes for a smootly-running operation. 

Window for change 
We enter the bread and pastry rooms which have rows of men and women who have perfected the art of kneading and shaping. Here we discover a fascinating phenomenon called the ‘window pane’ test. You take a piece of dough between your hands and stretch it into a square. The centre should look almost transparent, much like looking through a window. If the dough cracks, that means the gluten threads are too weak and more kneading is required. Try as we might, our window is turning out to be the biggest ‘pane’. Yes, winning dough that comes with a window is a product of both skill and patience. We hope we’ll fare better at the croissant section, next.

“Use the side of your palm,” we are instructed as we knead. “Now fold the dough on either side like an envelope.” Sweating under our hair net, we try a few times to take our uneven-looking creation to elevated French elegance. While mastery is not achieved in a minute, it does feel wonderful to create something with your hands. Notably, frequent hand washes are required in this section but gloves are not a mandate. “Gloves offer a false sense of security,” Aditi says when we ask her why. “And everything dies at 240 degrees C,” she assures us.

Fresh out of the oven
As you have probably guessed, the air in the room after this is substantially hotter as we are in the oven room. To speed up the cooling process, Aditi tells us that the brand has invested in a vacuum cooling chamber so that cakes and breads that would normally take over four hours to cool, are now ready in a matter of 20 minutes. If you’re wondering why the cooling process is so important, try slicing your bread scalding hot out of the oven and you will find that instead of neat spongy slices, you will be left with a pile of crumbs.

Our final stop on the tour is the packaging and dispatch room where a fresh batch of chocolate cookies is being wrapped and sealed in a matter of minutes. Big on innovation as always, Aditi tells us about a unique process implemented here as well to increase the shelf life of their baked goods. “We call it Modified Atmosphere Packaging or MAP, it reduces the oxygen inside each pack, meaning our cakes can last for three months and our cookies for nine,” she says impressively. Now you know where to stock up for those midnight cravings any time of year.

Go Sustainable
Earlier this month, the brand announced that it has begun on a journey towards sustainability with the aim to reduce its carbon footprint by 10 to 15 per cent by the end of this financial year. Apart from optimising delivery routes to reduce emissions, there is also a focus on achieving plastic neutrality by recycling the equivalent amount of plastic it uses, a release said.

—Sonali Shenoy
sonali @newindianexpress.com @brightasunshine

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Savour the Flavours- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

HYDERABAD: The City of Pearls, known for its rich history, culture, and of course, its delectable cuisine, has welcomed a new culinary gem to its gastronomic scene. Dum Maaro Dum, the latest multicuisine restaurant, located in the bustling Gachibowli neighbourhood, offers a culinary journey that transcends borders.

The menu at Dum Maaro Dum is a testament to the creativity and innovation of its culinary team led by Chef Salam. From Indian classics with a modern twist to international dishes with a quirky touch, the restaurant caters to a wide range of palates. Whether you’re a fan of aromatic Kolkata Special Biryani, or crave the comfort of Italian pasta, Dum Maaro Dum has something for everyone. 

The restaurant’s interior is a perfect blend of contemporary design and traditional elements. Warm earthy tones create an inviting and cozy atmosphere, all thanks to its owner Subhasree Mukherjee, an IT professional. Talking about how it all began, Subhasree says, “Both my husband and I are passionate about food and wanted to venture into this industry. After planning for a long time we came up with a small cafe specialising in Bengali cuisine at Kukatpally a year back.

But as the place was small, we wanted to get a bigger dining space. We searched for a suitable location keeping in mind our clientele and our commutation and that’s how Gachibowli happened. At our new outlet, we have diversified from keeping only Bengali food to  continental and Mughlai along with mocktails.”

While we made our way to the restaurant on a sultry afternoon, we were greeted by the ever-smiling Rejina Gazi, Executive Manager. We started our dining experience with the DMD Special Drink called Blue Sea. Next came Murgh Banjara Kebab with keema stuffing. The succulent kebab was moist and tender, while the keema stuffing and spicy. From the continental menu, we chose the Durban Chicken Sizzler served with Spaghetti. Both the spaghetti and the chicken pieces were full off flavours. Last but not least, we treated our taste buds to Authentic Bengali Mutton Biryani. The burst of aroma and flavours made it an apt ending to our food journey.                

Whether you’re a seasoned foodie or just looking to explore new tastes, this restaurant is a must-visit for anyone seeking a diverse and memorable dining experience in the heart of the IT corridor.

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Unique blends for tea enthusiasts- The New Indian Express

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HYDERABAD: Hyderabad’s love for chai is no secret, a typical Hyderabadi’s day does not end without the comforting embrace of a cup of chai. It’s a ritual, a tradition, and above all, for many it is an essential part of daily life. But what if you could elevate this beloved beverage to a healthier and more exotic level? Well, here’s some exciting news for all the chai lovers in Hyderabad — now you can savour a healthier version of chai at Club Sulaimani, nestled in the city’s newest Lulu Mall, inaugurated by Rejith Radhakrishnan, Chief Operating Officer of Lulu Group India.

Diving into its history, Club Sulaimani is Kerala’s first tea chain, founded with a strong vision. Fast forward to today, Club Sulaimani marks its 16th branch, notably its first inter-state outlet. Originating in Calicut, Kerala, this unique tea chain embarked on a journey with a simple yet ambitious goal: to make healthy tea an integral part of people’s daily routines.

Before the start of this venture, tea enthusiasts in Kerala and beyond were accustomed to their daily cup of tea with a limited range of flavours. However, with the arrival of Club Sulaimani, a healthier side of tea emerged, awakening taste buds to a world of possibilities. This newfound appreciation for tea’s versatility led to the brand’s expansion beyond Calicut to other parts of Kerala in 2020.

In essence, Club Sulaimani’s healthy tea is as unique as your character. When they say “healthy,” they aren’t merely offering a handful of options; they boast an impressive total of 51 varieties in their cafe. What’s even more interesting is that customers have the freedom to customise their teas to match their unique tastes and preferences.

The tea blends encompass a wide spectrum, including oolong tea, white tea, and green tea, infused with an array of herbs such as tulsi, lavender, hibiscus, flowers, and spices. As the name suggests, most of their teas do not contain milk. Alongside their authentic teas, you’ll find a wide range of other options like iced tea and the popular bubble teas, for milk tea lovers the distinctive Saffron Milk Tea, Caramel Cardamom Milk Tea and Lemongrass Milk Tea will render a new experience. But it’s not just about tea; their menu extends to a delightful array of continental and Italian dishes like burgers, sandwiches, pastas, and loaded fries and many more.

“We are very much excited to be a part of Hyderabad’s food culture,” says Muhammad Shafi AT, Founder & CEO of Club Sulaimani. Experiencing diverse food cultures is a trend these days, and Shafi believes that Hyderabadis will undoubtedly relish their exceptional range of teas. “Our commitment to sourcing tea from international markets and across India ensures that we offer exotic blends enriched with natural herbs, and that makes us stand out from the crowd,” he adds.

Among their diverse offerings, we tried three special Sulaimani teas from their menu. First, there’s the “Royal Bloom Sulaimani,” known for its potential benefits for healthy skin – perfectly blended with oolong tea and rose buds. Next is the “Velvet Sulaimani,” blended with cinnamon and green apple, was unique and flavourful, earning its title as a divine tea. Finally, the “White Lavender Sulaimani” was exceptional with the balanced flavour of white tea buds and lavender.

Not only their teas, but their culinary creations are equally impressive. The “Rhode Island Sandwich,” loaded with mayonnaise was a unique delight. “Dynamite Chicken” is a must-try for those seeking a burst of flavour, while “Cheese Potato Croquettes” are lip-smackingly delicious. Their “Chicken Loaded Fries” offer a unique yet tempting twist, and their “Tender Chicken Sandwich” is hailed as the best of all.

“We have an ambitious growth agenda to expand throughout the Indian, Far Eastern and Middle East markets in the medium-term time horizon. Our strength is our people who are enthusiastic to achieve the best in whatever they are doing,” says Club Sulaimani’s Chairman and Co-Founder, Riyas Kalliyath.

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Vegetarian delights- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

HYDERABAD: Navratri literally means ‘nine nights.’ It is a time of devotion, spirituality, fasting and feasting. During this period, many individuals choose to abstain from consuming non-vegetarian food and even some grains. Instead, they turn to a variety of vegetarian dishes that are not only delicious but also align with the religious significance of the festival. Let’s explore the rich tapestry of vegetarian food during Navratri.

Rizwan Khader, Corporate Chef of Telangana Spice Kitchen, boasts a culinary journey spanning 17 years and passionately highlights some exceptional options that may leave non-vegetarians pleasantly surprised.

Yam Ki Galouti / Kamal Kadi ki Galouti
A true masterpiece in the world of kebabs, these delicacies offer a texture and flavour that are second to none. The meticulous cooking of yam or lotus stems achieves a melt-in-the-mouth consistency, potentially surpassing non-vegetarian alternatives. As Chef Khader reveals, the secret lies in the precise blend of spices and cooking techniques. He emphasised his first encounter with ‘Yam Ki Galouti’ in Lucknow, where the delicate balance of spices and the yam’s melting texture left an indelible mark.

Bhunne Makai ke Kebab
Corn lovers, rejoice! These kebabs offer a revelation with their smoky and slightly sweet flavour, created by the use of roasted corn and spices. Chef Khader’s introduction to ‘Bhunne Makai ke Kebab’ in Punjab was serendipitous, but the extraordinary taste was unforgettable. This dish is elevated to gourmet delight status.

Tandoori Soya Chaap / Soya Chaap Ki Makhani 
Chef Khader’s exploration of Delhi’s street food scene inspired him to create ‘Soya Chaap Ki Makhani’ in his restaurant, blending traditional flavours with modern techniques. Soya chaap, when marinated and cooked to perfection, can convincingly mimic the texture and taste of meat. The craftsmanship involved in imparting smokiness and the rich, creamy makhani sauce make these dishes exceptional. 

Kathal Ki Biryani
The humble jackfruit transforms into a royal feast in this biryani. Its ability to absorb flavours and meaty texture, combined with aromatic spices, make this dish a vegetarian delight that competes with its non-vegetarian counterparts.

Mochar Chop (Banana Flower)
Banana flower, a lesser-known ingredient, astonishes as ‘mochar chop’ with its meaty texture and a burst of flavours. It’s a true representation of how vegetarian dishes can be both unique and exceptional. 
Chef Khader encountered ‘Kathal Ki Biryani’ and ‘Mochar Chop’ during his travels in eastern India, where the use of jackfruit and banana flower as meat substitutes opened his eyes to the diversity of vegetarian cuisine.

Chef Meet Shah of Gaurang’s Kitchen is a master, crafting one-of-a-kind vegetarian delicacies that weave magic with his expert hands and seasoned experience. Among his exceptional innovations, he selects two dishes that may outperform non-veg.

Vegetarian Haleem
Gaurang’s Kitchen’s Vegetarian Haleem is a revelation, particularly during the sacred month of Ramadan. Traditionally, haleem is a dish celebrated by meat enthusiasts, leaving vegetarians curious about the fuss. Chef Meet Shah, however, cracked the code and unveiled a vegetarian version that not only stands toe-to-toe with its meaty counterpart but also has a distinct charm of its own. Made using beaten soya, this vegetarian haleem boasts a texture and flavour profile that has been endorsed even by die-hard carnivores. This Vegetarian Haleem transcends expectations, proving that innovation and tradition can beautifully coexist on a plate.

Galouti Kofta
Chef Meet Shah’s Galouti Kofta is crafted with a blend of paneer and cheese, resulting in a soft, luscious texture that rivals the traditional kebabs. What sets this dish apart is not just its remarkable similarity to its meaty counterpart but also the way it’s served — in a sumptuous gravy that elevates the taste to new heights.

The Galouti Kofta isn’t just a dish; it’s a triumph of vegetarian gastronomy. It proves that, in the hands of a visionary chef, vegetarian cuisine can surpass the expectations of even the most discerning non-vegetarian palates.

Whether you’re fasting or simply looking to explore the diversity of Indian vegetarian cuisine, Navratri provides a delightful opportunity to savour a wide range of flavours and textures. So, during this auspicious festival, embrace the joy of wholesome vegetarian delights.

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2023 sets stage for dynamic gastronomic landscape of 2024- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

BENGALURU:  As we bid farewell to 2023, Bengaluru’s bustling food and beverage scene continues to showcase the city’s culinary prowess. The year was marked by a significant transformation, featuring the launch of swanky restaurants, the surge of the millet revolution, the adoption of plant-based menus, the thriving microbrewery scene, the flourishing of craft beverages, and the evolution of experiential dining. 

Delving deeper into the fabric of Bengaluru’s F&B landscape, distinguishing trends included technological integration, celebration of authentic regional cuisine, community involvement, innovations in food delivery, zero-waste initiatives, and an increasing focus on mindful dining. We sought insights from industry experts, obtaining a firsthand account of their observations as they experienced the unfolding of 2023. 

Managing partner of Daysie: All Day Casual Bar, Anirudh Kheny, emphasised Bengaluru’s culinary scene, highlighting its commitment to a wide range of flavours by combining regional, local, and worldwide cuisines. Bengaluru has seen the emergence of specialised cuisine-focused restaurants, fine dining venues with outstanding menus, and unique concepts such as speakeasies. Leading Indian and international food and beverage brands are drawn to the city, demonstrating their willingness to offer a wide range of culinary experiences.

The vibrant and diverse food and beverage scene of Bengaluru was highlighted by JP Singh, executive chef at the Sheraton Grand Bengaluru Whitefield. He brought to the fore the celebration of local and regional cuisine, sustainability, creative food concepts, tech integration, health-conscious dining, and the thriving café culture.

Chef-turned-entrepreneur Tarun Sibal echoed the sentiment, complimenting Bengaluru on its shift to food stories driven by content, with a variety of F&B formats and blockbuster openings. The new airport terminal’s international restaurant brand openings increased the city’s culinary appeal.

Bengaluru’s pleasant transition was underlined by Debaditya Chaudhury, the managing director and founder of Chowman, particularly in speciality coffee shops and craft breweries. Sustainability became the main focus, signifying an attempt to protect the environment, while culinary innovation broke down conventional barriers.

This year’s travellers showed a great passion for regional cuisine, according to Hyatt Centric head chef Gaurav Ramakrishnan. In the metropolis, tea-infused mocktails, cocktails, and fermented brews gained popularity in the city.

The Hilton Bangalore Embassy Golflinks’ Sourav Chowdhury, manager of food and beverage, highlighted the revolutionary development in Bengaluru’s F&B market by emphasising sustainability, robust online presence, and Instagram-worthy dining options. Businesses that were well-established online and provided flawless delivery services prospered by adapting to the changing demands of their tech-savvy clientele.

According to the annual trends report by a leading food delivery app, the most popular dish ordered in 2023 was biryani, which was closely followed by idli, and chocolate cake. Co-founder and director of World of Brands Gurpreet Singh praised the astounding growth in the number of new food and beverage enterprises, particularly in the wake of challenges induced by Covid. Noteworthy trends included the surge in gin popularity, the promising trajectory of tequila growth, and the establishment of friendly neighbourhood bars.

In summary, 2023 has proven to be an exceptional year for all stakeholders in Bengaluru’s food and beverage chain. Chefs, proprietors, suppliers, content curators, and diners alike shared in the delightful experiences of the past year, setting the stage for an even more dynamic gastronomic landscape of 2024.

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Kanji kronicles- The New Indian Express

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KOCHI: The humble dish kanji has always been a global dish. In England, it is porridge made of oats and in China, it is called congee, or more accurately zhou in Mandarin and juk in Cantonese. Russians have kasha made of buckwheat. And Italians consume polenta made of cornmeal.

The kanji has adapted to various cultures and climates throughout history. Though basic and easy to prepare, it is a wholesome dish and rich in nutrients. Kanji can be sweet or savoury and can be paired with literally any side dish. The most important characteristic is that the kanji itself is cost effective which is often crucial for people living in areas where resources are limited.

The porridge, historians say, evolved among agricultural societies that practised grain cultivation starting from the Neolithic period. However, the modern-day western oats porridge originated in medieval Scotland. The Scottish porridge is prepared by gently boiling oat flakes in water or milk, with a touch of butter and a final pinch of salt.

And slowly it evolved into a common breakfast dish often sweetened with sugar or honey. Several toppings like fresh fruits, granola,dry fruits, chia seeds and many more are added to enhance the taste of it.
Not just Scotland, in Switzerland too, people found solace in oatmeal porridge amid the harsh winters.

This filling and easy-to-prepare dish became a lifeline for farmers and their horses navigating the Alpine peaks, battling the cold.In Kerala, the kanji is prepared by boiling rice with water and adding a pinch of salt.

From pickle to pappadam and fish fry, anything can accompany a plate of hot kanji. However, nothing comes close to cherupayar or moong bean. And in Kerala, it has been a dietary mainstay for generations often consumed as a main course, particularly for dinner.

Then there is the legendary soul food, ‘pazhankanji’ made from left over rice soaked overnight in water at room temperature. It is paired with thick curd, a fiery green chili and coconut chammandhi.Crushed shallots and pickle makes it heavenly. It is a powerhouse of nutrients, can cool the body from scorching heat and serve as perfect energy boost.

Then, there is the ‘palkanji’, where milk replaces the water base and gives it a creamy texture.During the Malayalam month of Karkkidakam, the monsoon season, a medicinal kanji is prepared with several ayurvedic herbs. The dish is said to boost immunity, overcome fatigue and prevent diseases like fever and diarrhoea.

During Ramzan, devotees prepare ‘Nombu kanji’ cooked in coconut milk  by adding spices like turmeric, ginger, pepper and onion.A sweeter version called ‘Thari kanji’ is prepared with rava, ghee and roasted dry fruits, and is often served during Iftar.

People around the world have embraced the varieties of porridge, experimenting with grains, fruits, nuts, and spices.Although the modern generation chases the distinctive tastes of fast food, kanji will continues to hold its place in the hearts of Malayalis.

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Culinary musings- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

HYDERABAD: The rich tapestry of global cuisine often faces dilution in the fast-paced demands of modern life. However, a dynamic mother and daughter duo from Hyderabad, India have embarked on a flavourful journey to the United States with their innovative start-up, Podi Life. Alaknanda and her mother, Vasavi, are on a mission to introduce the authentic and versatile tastes of South India to a global audience.

For many Indians living abroad, the longing for the familiar flavours of home can be a constant companion. Despite their best efforts to recreate traditional dishes, something always seems to be missing. Alaknanda, born in Warangal and raised in Hyderabad, understands this sentiment all too well. Even with her various degrees and work experience across multiple continents and industries, her heart remained tethered to her roots and the rich culinary heritage of South India.

While residing in France, Alaknanda found herself captivated by the French food culture and nurturing her curiosity about all aspects of South Indian cuisine. It was during the pandemic in 2020 that Alaknanda and her mother spent eight months together in their Hyderabad apartment, discussing their shared passion for food and their cultural legacy. The outcome of this discussion is “Podi Life,” which was initially launched as a pandemic project in India and later expanded to the US, where it found resounding support.

Starting a business, especially one inspired by a rich cultural history, is no simple task. Alaknanda and Vasavi had to navigate regulatory, packaging, and labelling issues. Embracing the name “Podi” instead of a generic seasoning required a focus on education and fostering pride in their work. They’re not just selling a product; they’re sharing a piece of South India’s culinary soul.

A unique feature of Podi Life is Alaknanda’s curiosity in documenting her mother’s recipes. They bridge generations through their partnership, showcasing Vasavi’s culinary skills. Vasavi, who primarily focuses on the ingredients used in their products, is deeply concerned with quality.

For Podi Life, it’s not just about selling products; they believe in building a community. Collaborations and events play a crucial role in spreading the word for Podi Life. They encourage customers to use podis in their own creative ways because there’s no one “authentic” way to enjoy them.

Podi Life’s flagship product is a range of fresh, heirloom, small-batch podis (powders) re-imagined for modern gourmands. They are currently working on millets and heritage rices, reflecting Alaknanda’s familial ties to rice cultivation. What makes Podi Life unique is their multi-generational viewpoint on food, a superpower that resonates with their growing Instagram audience.

Looking ahead, Alaknanda and Vasavi aspire for Podi Life to become a household condiment and seasoning across the US, transcending its South Indian origins.

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A Royal Culinary Tour- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

KOCHI: Indian cuisine, with its complex flavours and mouth-watering aromas, is always a delight to explore. Though the land is known for its diverse regional cuisine, Hyderabadi and Rajasthani, the two royal cuisines, stand out for their extravagance and interesting combination of local flavours.

Bringing the best of these two worlds is the ongoing food fest, ‘The Great Indian Odyssey’ at Avenue Regent on MG Road, Kochi. Upon entering the space, staff, donning multi-coloured pagaris (turban), welcomes one to the buffet, arranged neatly on one side. Executive sous chef Biju K K is visibly excited to have introduced the culinary culture of both places to Kochi. “Both places can cater to the taste palates of vegetarians and non-vegetarians. When Hyderbadi boasts rich non-veg dishes, Rajasthani tops with the intricacies of the desert state’s homely food,” says chef Biju.

To start off, the chef offered Jal Jeera, the tangy coolant drink that is probably the right beverage to have before delving into what the Nawabs and Rajputs have to offer. As starters, the chef brought out fish tikka, which was followed by an equally compelling seekh kebab infused with herbs and spices.

As veg options, there was aloo adrak tiki and an interesting fusion of paneer and dried fruits as an appetiser. The mild taste of the slightly roasted paneer balanced well with the instant sweetness of dried fruits. The chef then gave me a culinary tour of the must-haves of Rajasthan. “For Malayalis who prefer North Indian dishes, Rajasthani cuisine perhaps has the most enticing options,” adds Chef.

The food of Rajasthan is also shaped by its geographical features and availability of resources. The scarcity of water prompt people to use oil, buttermilk, and ghee instead. The state’s classic signature dish is Daal Baati Churma. The Baati is cracked open and filled with chopped onion, tomatoes, coriander and dal.

The bread is fried for 40 minutes in ghee, giving it a crispy texture. Next came Ker Sangri. Ker, a seed that is tangy and peppery, is mixed with sangri, a long bean. This mixture is then soaked in buttermilk for long hours. After straining, it is then sauteed in ghee.

Gaate ki kadhi is another staple. It is primarily made with steamed and lightly fried gram flour dumplings. The tangy gravy made with tomato, buttermilk, and spices is best enjoyed with rice. The other dishes included gobi makhana, sev tomato ki subzi.

Moving to Hyderabadi cuisine, I tried the classic Hyderabadi biryani and raan. The pieces were so delicate due to the dishes’ long hours of cooking. Chingri malai curry, subzi nizami handi are some other attractions.  

After a mutton-laden round, the chef insisted on trying the sweet and tangy Raj Kachori and Dahi puri. After having the super crunchy chaat, I decided to end the culinary ride with Rajasthan’s special Laapsi, whose mild sweetness balances well with milk, nuts and dried fruits. The fest concludes on October   15.

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The taste of transformation- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

Food is elemental; it is the nourishing essence of life. Yet, its significance extends far beyond mere sustenance. As we marked World Food Day on Monday, Vaishali Vijaykumar brings five inspiring stories of individuals whose lives have been profoundly transformed by the power of food.

Food as an identity

Recently, at a friend’s mehendi ceremony, I relished the most delectable pav bhaji and brownies I have had so far. What made this experience satisfying was learning that these were prepared by 23-year-old Ramanathan and 27-year-old Rupak Rajendra Munje, two individuals with autism who run a small catering business called Buddies’ Kitchen. These young entrepreneurs owe their culinary skills to their training at The CanBridge Academy, a life skills training centre in Thiruvanmiyur, designed for youths with autism.

It all began during the pandemic when their mothers, Subbulakshmi and Ranjana Munje, discovered their sons’ talents. “Ramanathan and Rupak would work in small groups at CanBridge, meticulously handling tasks such as peeling, slicing, and dicing large quantities of vegetables. We stepped in, worked as a team by delivering chopped vegetables to our neighbours, and put their skills to use outside the academy. This modest attempt eventually paved the way for taking on small catering orders,” beam the mothers with pride. Following this, Ramanathan and Rupak have also been interning at Uncle Sam’s Kitchen for the past year.

Sharada Rajaram, who cofounded CanBridge alongside Kavitha Krishnamurthy, is happy that these young men are treated on par with their peers in the kitchen. “It’s an inclusive space where they showcase their abilities, not just through vegetable preparation but also in cooking. Work serves as their source of motivation, and they bring commitment and efficiency to their tasks,” she says.

In addition, they handle catering when they meet as part of the Special Child Assistance Network (SCAN) once a month, and when not at work, they dedicate their time to upskilling at CanBridge.

The boys are non-verbal and are deeply passionate about food, each expressing it uniquely. “They possess a keen sense of taste and are quick to identify missing elements in any dish. Their enthusiasm, inquisitiveness, and heightened awareness enables them to handle tasks independently, even as simple as brewing a cup of tea,” explains Sharada.

Rupak and Ramanathan’s journey has defied expectations and inspires people. Their next step is to gradually scale the business. The team’s message to society and parents of children with disabilities is clear. “Society must take responsibility for supporting families with children with disabilities, and parents should encourage their children to step out of their comfort zones. Their potential will surprise you.”

Food for a cause

On October 15, the YMCA Convention Centre was the stage for a remarkable gathering of food enthusiasts, all thanks to ‘Moi Virunthu’, an initiative by Help On Hunger foundation. For the fourth consecutive year, this Chennai-based NGO hosted a grand event on World Food Day to raise awareness about its mission to eradicate hunger.

Speaking about this year’s vision, Allen Samuel, an entrepreneur and the founder of the NGO, says, “Moi Virunthu draws its inspiration from a long-standing traditional practice. The feast is to crowdsource funds to feed the underprivileged. Each ticket, following the ‘eat to feed’ concept, is priced at `500. This not only allows individuals to savour veg and chicken biryani by Jaffer Bhai but also enables them to provide sustenance for seven homeless people.”

The roots of Help on Hunger trace back to the moment when Allen observed homeless individuals knocking on doors for food during the pandemic. Moved by this, Allen and his wife began offering homemade meals. What began as 20 meal packets per day soon grew tenfold.

Registered as an NGO in July 2021, Help on Hunger has flourished into a team of 73 dedicated volunteers who distribute approximately 350-400 food packets across 200 locations within the city. All contributions are transparent, and the food they provide to the homeless is the same quality they eat at home, including chapati, idli, and rice. It’s prepared at their centralised kitchen in Thoraipakkam. Their largest donation, a sum of `2,575, came from a flower vendor who wanted to make a difference.

The team has extended its reach by providing grocery kits to the Irular communities around Chennai, arranging milk cards for families in Kannagi Nagar, and adopting 175 members of leper settlements near Chengalpattu. They even introduced a breakfast scheme at a school in Tiruchy to address malnutrition among the children of salt pan workers, leading to improved attendance, reduced dropout rates, and enhanced nutrition for their families.

Allen’s primary goal is to eliminate hunger by providing dignified meals, which they’ve calculated to cost `35 per meal. With a track record of feeding over 2.87 lakh people, they are unwavering in their commitment to eradicating hunger. “I’m able to sleep peacefully at night because someone, somewhere has not gone to sleep hungry,” he sums up.

Food as a healer

On September 21, Sreya Vittaldev shared a reel about noodle bowls on her Instagram page @darthdevi, a topic familiar to her followers, but not the story behind the post itself. The description’s opening line read “Trigger Warning: domestic abuse, eating disorders, unhealthy romantic relationships.” What followed in the comments section were words of admiration, as her followers recognised the immense courage it took for Sreya to share her vulnerabilities with the virtual world.

As a chef and marketing consultant in the F&B industry, based in Bengaluru, Sreya’s perspective on food goes beyond the ordinary; she sees it as a form of therapy. In the absence of a safe emotional haven in close relationships, cooking allowed Sreya to reflect on her thoughts and find inner support. Discussing her post, she shares, “Noodle bowls hold a special place in my heart because I initially made them to please my former partner, who was abusive. It was our only connection in our relationship. I stopped making them after ending the relationship, as it’d trigger traumatic memories and haunting voices in my head. The defining moment in my healing journey was when I started cooking noodle bowls again. I’d remind myself that I was making it for me and me alone, drowning out those painful voices.”

Describing the empowerment she derives from food, she remarks, “Creating and enjoying our own meals is an act of defiance. We’re telling the world, ‘Hey, I had a tough day, but I won’t let it stop me from making this comforting bowl of rasam and potato rice’. I may be sad, but I’ll cook and nourish myself because I want to be there for myself in every possible way, even if it’s a simple meal.”

For individuals struggling with eating disorders and body shaming, Sreya reiterates, “Remember that no one has the right to comment on your body, especially in romantic relationships. If you find yourself in a toxic relationship, consider leaving because it can harm your relationship with yourself and with food. We must eat for ourselves and the body we have, not the one we wish for. Seek guidance from a certified nutritionist, and surround yourself with a close-knit community that supports you.”

Food for justice

G Rajalakshmi’s journey unfolds as a compelling narrative of her community’s steadfast determination to safeguard Pulicat, and they’ve harnessed the power of food as their weapon of choice. The women have been using their culinary legacy to raise awareness about the imminent external dangers encroaching upon their wetlands due to the Adani port expansion.

Their journey began three years ago at the Pulicat Seafood Festival in 2020, held as part of Chennai Kalai Theru Vizha. The women whipped up a seafood thaali named ‘Pazhaverkadu Meen Virunthu’, featuring beloved dishes from the age-old Pulicat cuisine. Since then, Rajalakshmi has not missed an opportunity to talk about the richness of her town and its food. A resident of Konankuppam near Pulicat, she has been educating the public, sharing recipes over phone calls with people from Chennai and giving interviews on YouTube.

She passionately shares, “Shrimp vadas, Kaanan Keluthi puttu (made using mackerels), era karukkal… our cuisine is a treasure closely held within the fishing community. These are made using species found in local waters, many of which remain unknown to urban dwellers. They are tasty and nutritious.”

Rajalakshmi, a key member of Meenava Kootamaippu Magalir Sangam, does more than just sell fish and flour from her home to support her family; she actively engages in various social and community-centric initiatives. As she reflects, “In the past, the participation of women would have been met with disapproval. Today, women are at the forefront of every battle. What better weapon than food? We may lack formal education, but food has given us the opportunity to become self-reliant. We are determined to use this power to create a positive impact in our society.”

The women of Pulicat are eager to take part in more food festivals to engage with the public directly. They are resilient, refusing to surrender in the face of adversity.

Food for empowerment

In 2006, L Rohini Perera’s family, from Pesalai village in Mannar Town, Sri Lanka, found themselves relocated to Rameshwaram along with 200 other families. A mere 15 days later, Rohini was in a rehabilitation camp in Thoothukudi, facing the daunting task of rebuilding her life. Cut to 2023, after surmounting countless obstacles, Rohini stands as a proud partner of Olai Puttu, a restaurant born from the determination of 12 remarkable women.

As Olai Puttu approaches its first anniversary on October 27, Rohini reminisces, “Last July, our town played host to the Neithal, folk art carnival, initiated by Kanimozhi Karunanidhi, MP for Tuticorin. We seized the opportunity to establish a food stall, which proved a resounding success. Our cuisine, rich in flavours of coconut oil and coconut milk, was embraced by everyone, setting the stage for the restaurant’s grand opening a few months later.”

This traditional Sri Lankan Tamil restaurant represents an initiative dedicated to fostering the self-sufficiency of Sri Lankan Tamil women residing within rehabilitation camps. The venture garners support from the Commissionerate of Rehabilitation and Welfare of Non-Resident Tamils, the Government of Tamil Nadu, the United Nations Refugee Agency, and the Organisation for Eelam Refugee Rehabilitation.

“Women hailing from Thalamuthu Nagar, Thaappaaththi, and Kulaththuvaaipatti were trained by professionals from Advantage Food Pvt Ltd and GRT Hotels to helm a restaurant. We serve an array of dishes, including thothal halwa, samba arisi idiyappam, olai puttu, maasai vada, eral vadai, eral gravy, nandu gravy, kanava fry, chicken kotthu, mutton kotthu, and more. Each dish is crafted in the age-old tradition, free of additives. They reflect the stories of our life back home,” she shares.

This endeavour has given newfound confidence upon the women previously confined within four walls. “We have acquired a sense of self-sufficiency and resilience. The trust placed in us by the community empowers us. I used to run a garment shop, which I had to close during the pandemic. This restaurant symbolises a second chance at life for many like me. We can scale the business with more support,” she notes.

Rohini, who also participated in the two-day Refugee Food Festival, Oorum Unnavum, held in June in Chennai, says, “The people of Chennai have wholeheartedly accepted us and our cuisine. Sri Lankan culture is renowned for nurturing both body and spirit, and that remains our collective mission and vision.”

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A paper route to the plate- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

In the bustling pace of today’s digital world, where the Internet reigns as our all-encompassing resource, there’s a treasure often overlooked — humble handwritten recipes and comforting cookbooks, lovingly preserved within the four walls of our homes. When we immerse ourselves in the measurements and ingredients in these pages, we are surrounded by the culinary wisdom of cooks from the past, the guidance of those in the present, and the enduring legacy of closely guarded family traditions. This intimate connection to our roots cannot be replicated by the sea of recipes available on the web.

Tasty tributes

American writer Laurie Colwin’s quote ‘No one who cooks, cooks alone’ resonates deeply with Sunanda Vasudevan, who is currently pursuing her master’s degree in Graphic Design in Visual Experience in Georgia, USA. She sustains herself with the solace of her grandmother Vijayalakshmi Ranganathan’s self-published cookbook Unavu Vagaigalum, Thayarippu Muraigalum to satiate her cravings for home food.

Sundanda recalls the festival days when their landline would be abuzz with loved ones seeking her grandma’s guidance, who had jotted down the measurements in red and blue ink, safeguarding these heirloom recipes. With a large family and numerous recipe requests, the family meticulously transcribed her handwritten notes into English. This collaboration gave life to the recipes, and they managed to sell more than 1,000 copies. They priced the book at a nominal `60, using the proceeds to support a charitable cause.

“My grandma passed away in her early 70s, but her love knew no bounds. She would personally sign and gift each copy to every new bride with vethalai and paaku, bl