31Dec
Vegetarian delights- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

HYDERABAD: Navratri literally means ‘nine nights.’ It is a time of devotion, spirituality, fasting and feasting. During this period, many individuals choose to abstain from consuming non-vegetarian food and even some grains. Instead, they turn to a variety of vegetarian dishes that are not only delicious but also align with the religious significance of the festival. Let’s explore the rich tapestry of vegetarian food during Navratri.

Rizwan Khader, Corporate Chef of Telangana Spice Kitchen, boasts a culinary journey spanning 17 years and passionately highlights some exceptional options that may leave non-vegetarians pleasantly surprised.

Yam Ki Galouti / Kamal Kadi ki Galouti
A true masterpiece in the world of kebabs, these delicacies offer a texture and flavour that are second to none. The meticulous cooking of yam or lotus stems achieves a melt-in-the-mouth consistency, potentially surpassing non-vegetarian alternatives. As Chef Khader reveals, the secret lies in the precise blend of spices and cooking techniques. He emphasised his first encounter with ‘Yam Ki Galouti’ in Lucknow, where the delicate balance of spices and the yam’s melting texture left an indelible mark.

Bhunne Makai ke Kebab
Corn lovers, rejoice! These kebabs offer a revelation with their smoky and slightly sweet flavour, created by the use of roasted corn and spices. Chef Khader’s introduction to ‘Bhunne Makai ke Kebab’ in Punjab was serendipitous, but the extraordinary taste was unforgettable. This dish is elevated to gourmet delight status.

Tandoori Soya Chaap / Soya Chaap Ki Makhani 
Chef Khader’s exploration of Delhi’s street food scene inspired him to create ‘Soya Chaap Ki Makhani’ in his restaurant, blending traditional flavours with modern techniques. Soya chaap, when marinated and cooked to perfection, can convincingly mimic the texture and taste of meat. The craftsmanship involved in imparting smokiness and the rich, creamy makhani sauce make these dishes exceptional. 

Kathal Ki Biryani
The humble jackfruit transforms into a royal feast in this biryani. Its ability to absorb flavours and meaty texture, combined with aromatic spices, make this dish a vegetarian delight that competes with its non-vegetarian counterparts.

Mochar Chop (Banana Flower)
Banana flower, a lesser-known ingredient, astonishes as ‘mochar chop’ with its meaty texture and a burst of flavours. It’s a true representation of how vegetarian dishes can be both unique and exceptional. 
Chef Khader encountered ‘Kathal Ki Biryani’ and ‘Mochar Chop’ during his travels in eastern India, where the use of jackfruit and banana flower as meat substitutes opened his eyes to the diversity of vegetarian cuisine.

Chef Meet Shah of Gaurang’s Kitchen is a master, crafting one-of-a-kind vegetarian delicacies that weave magic with his expert hands and seasoned experience. Among his exceptional innovations, he selects two dishes that may outperform non-veg.

Vegetarian Haleem
Gaurang’s Kitchen’s Vegetarian Haleem is a revelation, particularly during the sacred month of Ramadan. Traditionally, haleem is a dish celebrated by meat enthusiasts, leaving vegetarians curious about the fuss. Chef Meet Shah, however, cracked the code and unveiled a vegetarian version that not only stands toe-to-toe with its meaty counterpart but also has a distinct charm of its own. Made using beaten soya, this vegetarian haleem boasts a texture and flavour profile that has been endorsed even by die-hard carnivores. This Vegetarian Haleem transcends expectations, proving that innovation and tradition can beautifully coexist on a plate.

Galouti Kofta
Chef Meet Shah’s Galouti Kofta is crafted with a blend of paneer and cheese, resulting in a soft, luscious texture that rivals the traditional kebabs. What sets this dish apart is not just its remarkable similarity to its meaty counterpart but also the way it’s served — in a sumptuous gravy that elevates the taste to new heights.

The Galouti Kofta isn’t just a dish; it’s a triumph of vegetarian gastronomy. It proves that, in the hands of a visionary chef, vegetarian cuisine can surpass the expectations of even the most discerning non-vegetarian palates.

Whether you’re fasting or simply looking to explore the diversity of Indian vegetarian cuisine, Navratri provides a delightful opportunity to savour a wide range of flavours and textures. So, during this auspicious festival, embrace the joy of wholesome vegetarian delights.

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30Dec
2023 sets stage for dynamic gastronomic landscape of 2024- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

BENGALURU:  As we bid farewell to 2023, Bengaluru’s bustling food and beverage scene continues to showcase the city’s culinary prowess. The year was marked by a significant transformation, featuring the launch of swanky restaurants, the surge of the millet revolution, the adoption of plant-based menus, the thriving microbrewery scene, the flourishing of craft beverages, and the evolution of experiential dining. 

Delving deeper into the fabric of Bengaluru’s F&B landscape, distinguishing trends included technological integration, celebration of authentic regional cuisine, community involvement, innovations in food delivery, zero-waste initiatives, and an increasing focus on mindful dining. We sought insights from industry experts, obtaining a firsthand account of their observations as they experienced the unfolding of 2023. 

Managing partner of Daysie: All Day Casual Bar, Anirudh Kheny, emphasised Bengaluru’s culinary scene, highlighting its commitment to a wide range of flavours by combining regional, local, and worldwide cuisines. Bengaluru has seen the emergence of specialised cuisine-focused restaurants, fine dining venues with outstanding menus, and unique concepts such as speakeasies. Leading Indian and international food and beverage brands are drawn to the city, demonstrating their willingness to offer a wide range of culinary experiences.

The vibrant and diverse food and beverage scene of Bengaluru was highlighted by JP Singh, executive chef at the Sheraton Grand Bengaluru Whitefield. He brought to the fore the celebration of local and regional cuisine, sustainability, creative food concepts, tech integration, health-conscious dining, and the thriving café culture.

Chef-turned-entrepreneur Tarun Sibal echoed the sentiment, complimenting Bengaluru on its shift to food stories driven by content, with a variety of F&B formats and blockbuster openings. The new airport terminal’s international restaurant brand openings increased the city’s culinary appeal.

Bengaluru’s pleasant transition was underlined by Debaditya Chaudhury, the managing director and founder of Chowman, particularly in speciality coffee shops and craft breweries. Sustainability became the main focus, signifying an attempt to protect the environment, while culinary innovation broke down conventional barriers.

This year’s travellers showed a great passion for regional cuisine, according to Hyatt Centric head chef Gaurav Ramakrishnan. In the metropolis, tea-infused mocktails, cocktails, and fermented brews gained popularity in the city.

The Hilton Bangalore Embassy Golflinks’ Sourav Chowdhury, manager of food and beverage, highlighted the revolutionary development in Bengaluru’s F&B market by emphasising sustainability, robust online presence, and Instagram-worthy dining options. Businesses that were well-established online and provided flawless delivery services prospered by adapting to the changing demands of their tech-savvy clientele.

According to the annual trends report by a leading food delivery app, the most popular dish ordered in 2023 was biryani, which was closely followed by idli, and chocolate cake. Co-founder and director of World of Brands Gurpreet Singh praised the astounding growth in the number of new food and beverage enterprises, particularly in the wake of challenges induced by Covid. Noteworthy trends included the surge in gin popularity, the promising trajectory of tequila growth, and the establishment of friendly neighbourhood bars.

In summary, 2023 has proven to be an exceptional year for all stakeholders in Bengaluru’s food and beverage chain. Chefs, proprietors, suppliers, content curators, and diners alike shared in the delightful experiences of the past year, setting the stage for an even more dynamic gastronomic landscape of 2024.

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29Dec
Kanji kronicles- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

KOCHI: The humble dish kanji has always been a global dish. In England, it is porridge made of oats and in China, it is called congee, or more accurately zhou in Mandarin and juk in Cantonese. Russians have kasha made of buckwheat. And Italians consume polenta made of cornmeal.

The kanji has adapted to various cultures and climates throughout history. Though basic and easy to prepare, it is a wholesome dish and rich in nutrients. Kanji can be sweet or savoury and can be paired with literally any side dish. The most important characteristic is that the kanji itself is cost effective which is often crucial for people living in areas where resources are limited.

The porridge, historians say, evolved among agricultural societies that practised grain cultivation starting from the Neolithic period. However, the modern-day western oats porridge originated in medieval Scotland. The Scottish porridge is prepared by gently boiling oat flakes in water or milk, with a touch of butter and a final pinch of salt.

And slowly it evolved into a common breakfast dish often sweetened with sugar or honey. Several toppings like fresh fruits, granola,dry fruits, chia seeds and many more are added to enhance the taste of it.
Not just Scotland, in Switzerland too, people found solace in oatmeal porridge amid the harsh winters.

This filling and easy-to-prepare dish became a lifeline for farmers and their horses navigating the Alpine peaks, battling the cold.In Kerala, the kanji is prepared by boiling rice with water and adding a pinch of salt.

From pickle to pappadam and fish fry, anything can accompany a plate of hot kanji. However, nothing comes close to cherupayar or moong bean. And in Kerala, it has been a dietary mainstay for generations often consumed as a main course, particularly for dinner.

Then there is the legendary soul food, ‘pazhankanji’ made from left over rice soaked overnight in water at room temperature. It is paired with thick curd, a fiery green chili and coconut chammandhi.Crushed shallots and pickle makes it heavenly. It is a powerhouse of nutrients, can cool the body from scorching heat and serve as perfect energy boost.

Then, there is the ‘palkanji’, where milk replaces the water base and gives it a creamy texture.During the Malayalam month of Karkkidakam, the monsoon season, a medicinal kanji is prepared with several ayurvedic herbs. The dish is said to boost immunity, overcome fatigue and prevent diseases like fever and diarrhoea.

During Ramzan, devotees prepare ‘Nombu kanji’ cooked in coconut milk  by adding spices like turmeric, ginger, pepper and onion.A sweeter version called ‘Thari kanji’ is prepared with rava, ghee and roasted dry fruits, and is often served during Iftar.

People around the world have embraced the varieties of porridge, experimenting with grains, fruits, nuts, and spices.Although the modern generation chases the distinctive tastes of fast food, kanji will continues to hold its place in the hearts of Malayalis.

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28Dec
Culinary musings- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

HYDERABAD: The rich tapestry of global cuisine often faces dilution in the fast-paced demands of modern life. However, a dynamic mother and daughter duo from Hyderabad, India have embarked on a flavourful journey to the United States with their innovative start-up, Podi Life. Alaknanda and her mother, Vasavi, are on a mission to introduce the authentic and versatile tastes of South India to a global audience.

For many Indians living abroad, the longing for the familiar flavours of home can be a constant companion. Despite their best efforts to recreate traditional dishes, something always seems to be missing. Alaknanda, born in Warangal and raised in Hyderabad, understands this sentiment all too well. Even with her various degrees and work experience across multiple continents and industries, her heart remained tethered to her roots and the rich culinary heritage of South India.

While residing in France, Alaknanda found herself captivated by the French food culture and nurturing her curiosity about all aspects of South Indian cuisine. It was during the pandemic in 2020 that Alaknanda and her mother spent eight months together in their Hyderabad apartment, discussing their shared passion for food and their cultural legacy. The outcome of this discussion is “Podi Life,” which was initially launched as a pandemic project in India and later expanded to the US, where it found resounding support.

Starting a business, especially one inspired by a rich cultural history, is no simple task. Alaknanda and Vasavi had to navigate regulatory, packaging, and labelling issues. Embracing the name “Podi” instead of a generic seasoning required a focus on education and fostering pride in their work. They’re not just selling a product; they’re sharing a piece of South India’s culinary soul.

A unique feature of Podi Life is Alaknanda’s curiosity in documenting her mother’s recipes. They bridge generations through their partnership, showcasing Vasavi’s culinary skills. Vasavi, who primarily focuses on the ingredients used in their products, is deeply concerned with quality.

For Podi Life, it’s not just about selling products; they believe in building a community. Collaborations and events play a crucial role in spreading the word for Podi Life. They encourage customers to use podis in their own creative ways because there’s no one “authentic” way to enjoy them.

Podi Life’s flagship product is a range of fresh, heirloom, small-batch podis (powders) re-imagined for modern gourmands. They are currently working on millets and heritage rices, reflecting Alaknanda’s familial ties to rice cultivation. What makes Podi Life unique is their multi-generational viewpoint on food, a superpower that resonates with their growing Instagram audience.

Looking ahead, Alaknanda and Vasavi aspire for Podi Life to become a household condiment and seasoning across the US, transcending its South Indian origins.

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28Dec
A Royal Culinary Tour- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

KOCHI: Indian cuisine, with its complex flavours and mouth-watering aromas, is always a delight to explore. Though the land is known for its diverse regional cuisine, Hyderabadi and Rajasthani, the two royal cuisines, stand out for their extravagance and interesting combination of local flavours.

Bringing the best of these two worlds is the ongoing food fest, ‘The Great Indian Odyssey’ at Avenue Regent on MG Road, Kochi. Upon entering the space, staff, donning multi-coloured pagaris (turban), welcomes one to the buffet, arranged neatly on one side. Executive sous chef Biju K K is visibly excited to have introduced the culinary culture of both places to Kochi. “Both places can cater to the taste palates of vegetarians and non-vegetarians. When Hyderbadi boasts rich non-veg dishes, Rajasthani tops with the intricacies of the desert state’s homely food,” says chef Biju.

To start off, the chef offered Jal Jeera, the tangy coolant drink that is probably the right beverage to have before delving into what the Nawabs and Rajputs have to offer. As starters, the chef brought out fish tikka, which was followed by an equally compelling seekh kebab infused with herbs and spices.

As veg options, there was aloo adrak tiki and an interesting fusion of paneer and dried fruits as an appetiser. The mild taste of the slightly roasted paneer balanced well with the instant sweetness of dried fruits. The chef then gave me a culinary tour of the must-haves of Rajasthan. “For Malayalis who prefer North Indian dishes, Rajasthani cuisine perhaps has the most enticing options,” adds Chef.

The food of Rajasthan is also shaped by its geographical features and availability of resources. The scarcity of water prompt people to use oil, buttermilk, and ghee instead. The state’s classic signature dish is Daal Baati Churma. The Baati is cracked open and filled with chopped onion, tomatoes, coriander and dal.

The bread is fried for 40 minutes in ghee, giving it a crispy texture. Next came Ker Sangri. Ker, a seed that is tangy and peppery, is mixed with sangri, a long bean. This mixture is then soaked in buttermilk for long hours. After straining, it is then sauteed in ghee.

Gaate ki kadhi is another staple. It is primarily made with steamed and lightly fried gram flour dumplings. The tangy gravy made with tomato, buttermilk, and spices is best enjoyed with rice. The other dishes included gobi makhana, sev tomato ki subzi.

Moving to Hyderabadi cuisine, I tried the classic Hyderabadi biryani and raan. The pieces were so delicate due to the dishes’ long hours of cooking. Chingri malai curry, subzi nizami handi are some other attractions.  

After a mutton-laden round, the chef insisted on trying the sweet and tangy Raj Kachori and Dahi puri. After having the super crunchy chaat, I decided to end the culinary ride with Rajasthan’s special Laapsi, whose mild sweetness balances well with milk, nuts and dried fruits. The fest concludes on October   15.

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27Dec
The taste of transformation- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

Food is elemental; it is the nourishing essence of life. Yet, its significance extends far beyond mere sustenance. As we marked World Food Day on Monday, Vaishali Vijaykumar brings five inspiring stories of individuals whose lives have been profoundly transformed by the power of food.

Food as an identity

Recently, at a friend’s mehendi ceremony, I relished the most delectable pav bhaji and brownies I have had so far. What made this experience satisfying was learning that these were prepared by 23-year-old Ramanathan and 27-year-old Rupak Rajendra Munje, two individuals with autism who run a small catering business called Buddies’ Kitchen. These young entrepreneurs owe their culinary skills to their training at The CanBridge Academy, a life skills training centre in Thiruvanmiyur, designed for youths with autism.

It all began during the pandemic when their mothers, Subbulakshmi and Ranjana Munje, discovered their sons’ talents. “Ramanathan and Rupak would work in small groups at CanBridge, meticulously handling tasks such as peeling, slicing, and dicing large quantities of vegetables. We stepped in, worked as a team by delivering chopped vegetables to our neighbours, and put their skills to use outside the academy. This modest attempt eventually paved the way for taking on small catering orders,” beam the mothers with pride. Following this, Ramanathan and Rupak have also been interning at Uncle Sam’s Kitchen for the past year.

Sharada Rajaram, who cofounded CanBridge alongside Kavitha Krishnamurthy, is happy that these young men are treated on par with their peers in the kitchen. “It’s an inclusive space where they showcase their abilities, not just through vegetable preparation but also in cooking. Work serves as their source of motivation, and they bring commitment and efficiency to their tasks,” she says.

In addition, they handle catering when they meet as part of the Special Child Assistance Network (SCAN) once a month, and when not at work, they dedicate their time to upskilling at CanBridge.

The boys are non-verbal and are deeply passionate about food, each expressing it uniquely. “They possess a keen sense of taste and are quick to identify missing elements in any dish. Their enthusiasm, inquisitiveness, and heightened awareness enables them to handle tasks independently, even as simple as brewing a cup of tea,” explains Sharada.

Rupak and Ramanathan’s journey has defied expectations and inspires people. Their next step is to gradually scale the business. The team’s message to society and parents of children with disabilities is clear. “Society must take responsibility for supporting families with children with disabilities, and parents should encourage their children to step out of their comfort zones. Their potential will surprise you.”

Food for a cause

On October 15, the YMCA Convention Centre was the stage for a remarkable gathering of food enthusiasts, all thanks to ‘Moi Virunthu’, an initiative by Help On Hunger foundation. For the fourth consecutive year, this Chennai-based NGO hosted a grand event on World Food Day to raise awareness about its mission to eradicate hunger.

Speaking about this year’s vision, Allen Samuel, an entrepreneur and the founder of the NGO, says, “Moi Virunthu draws its inspiration from a long-standing traditional practice. The feast is to crowdsource funds to feed the underprivileged. Each ticket, following the ‘eat to feed’ concept, is priced at `500. This not only allows individuals to savour veg and chicken biryani by Jaffer Bhai but also enables them to provide sustenance for seven homeless people.”

The roots of Help on Hunger trace back to the moment when Allen observed homeless individuals knocking on doors for food during the pandemic. Moved by this, Allen and his wife began offering homemade meals. What began as 20 meal packets per day soon grew tenfold.

Registered as an NGO in July 2021, Help on Hunger has flourished into a team of 73 dedicated volunteers who distribute approximately 350-400 food packets across 200 locations within the city. All contributions are transparent, and the food they provide to the homeless is the same quality they eat at home, including chapati, idli, and rice. It’s prepared at their centralised kitchen in Thoraipakkam. Their largest donation, a sum of `2,575, came from a flower vendor who wanted to make a difference.

The team has extended its reach by providing grocery kits to the Irular communities around Chennai, arranging milk cards for families in Kannagi Nagar, and adopting 175 members of leper settlements near Chengalpattu. They even introduced a breakfast scheme at a school in Tiruchy to address malnutrition among the children of salt pan workers, leading to improved attendance, reduced dropout rates, and enhanced nutrition for their families.

Allen’s primary goal is to eliminate hunger by providing dignified meals, which they’ve calculated to cost `35 per meal. With a track record of feeding over 2.87 lakh people, they are unwavering in their commitment to eradicating hunger. “I’m able to sleep peacefully at night because someone, somewhere has not gone to sleep hungry,” he sums up.

Food as a healer

On September 21, Sreya Vittaldev shared a reel about noodle bowls on her Instagram page @darthdevi, a topic familiar to her followers, but not the story behind the post itself. The description’s opening line read “Trigger Warning: domestic abuse, eating disorders, unhealthy romantic relationships.” What followed in the comments section were words of admiration, as her followers recognised the immense courage it took for Sreya to share her vulnerabilities with the virtual world.

As a chef and marketing consultant in the F&B industry, based in Bengaluru, Sreya’s perspective on food goes beyond the ordinary; she sees it as a form of therapy. In the absence of a safe emotional haven in close relationships, cooking allowed Sreya to reflect on her thoughts and find inner support. Discussing her post, she shares, “Noodle bowls hold a special place in my heart because I initially made them to please my former partner, who was abusive. It was our only connection in our relationship. I stopped making them after ending the relationship, as it’d trigger traumatic memories and haunting voices in my head. The defining moment in my healing journey was when I started cooking noodle bowls again. I’d remind myself that I was making it for me and me alone, drowning out those painful voices.”

Describing the empowerment she derives from food, she remarks, “Creating and enjoying our own meals is an act of defiance. We’re telling the world, ‘Hey, I had a tough day, but I won’t let it stop me from making this comforting bowl of rasam and potato rice’. I may be sad, but I’ll cook and nourish myself because I want to be there for myself in every possible way, even if it’s a simple meal.”

For individuals struggling with eating disorders and body shaming, Sreya reiterates, “Remember that no one has the right to comment on your body, especially in romantic relationships. If you find yourself in a toxic relationship, consider leaving because it can harm your relationship with yourself and with food. We must eat for ourselves and the body we have, not the one we wish for. Seek guidance from a certified nutritionist, and surround yourself with a close-knit community that supports you.”

Food for justice

G Rajalakshmi’s journey unfolds as a compelling narrative of her community’s steadfast determination to safeguard Pulicat, and they’ve harnessed the power of food as their weapon of choice. The women have been using their culinary legacy to raise awareness about the imminent external dangers encroaching upon their wetlands due to the Adani port expansion.

Their journey began three years ago at the Pulicat Seafood Festival in 2020, held as part of Chennai Kalai Theru Vizha. The women whipped up a seafood thaali named ‘Pazhaverkadu Meen Virunthu’, featuring beloved dishes from the age-old Pulicat cuisine. Since then, Rajalakshmi has not missed an opportunity to talk about the richness of her town and its food. A resident of Konankuppam near Pulicat, she has been educating the public, sharing recipes over phone calls with people from Chennai and giving interviews on YouTube.

She passionately shares, “Shrimp vadas, Kaanan Keluthi puttu (made using mackerels), era karukkal… our cuisine is a treasure closely held within the fishing community. These are made using species found in local waters, many of which remain unknown to urban dwellers. They are tasty and nutritious.”

Rajalakshmi, a key member of Meenava Kootamaippu Magalir Sangam, does more than just sell fish and flour from her home to support her family; she actively engages in various social and community-centric initiatives. As she reflects, “In the past, the participation of women would have been met with disapproval. Today, women are at the forefront of every battle. What better weapon than food? We may lack formal education, but food has given us the opportunity to become self-reliant. We are determined to use this power to create a positive impact in our society.”

The women of Pulicat are eager to take part in more food festivals to engage with the public directly. They are resilient, refusing to surrender in the face of adversity.

Food for empowerment

In 2006, L Rohini Perera’s family, from Pesalai village in Mannar Town, Sri Lanka, found themselves relocated to Rameshwaram along with 200 other families. A mere 15 days later, Rohini was in a rehabilitation camp in Thoothukudi, facing the daunting task of rebuilding her life. Cut to 2023, after surmounting countless obstacles, Rohini stands as a proud partner of Olai Puttu, a restaurant born from the determination of 12 remarkable women.

As Olai Puttu approaches its first anniversary on October 27, Rohini reminisces, “Last July, our town played host to the Neithal, folk art carnival, initiated by Kanimozhi Karunanidhi, MP for Tuticorin. We seized the opportunity to establish a food stall, which proved a resounding success. Our cuisine, rich in flavours of coconut oil and coconut milk, was embraced by everyone, setting the stage for the restaurant’s grand opening a few months later.”

This traditional Sri Lankan Tamil restaurant represents an initiative dedicated to fostering the self-sufficiency of Sri Lankan Tamil women residing within rehabilitation camps. The venture garners support from the Commissionerate of Rehabilitation and Welfare of Non-Resident Tamils, the Government of Tamil Nadu, the United Nations Refugee Agency, and the Organisation for Eelam Refugee Rehabilitation.

“Women hailing from Thalamuthu Nagar, Thaappaaththi, and Kulaththuvaaipatti were trained by professionals from Advantage Food Pvt Ltd and GRT Hotels to helm a restaurant. We serve an array of dishes, including thothal halwa, samba arisi idiyappam, olai puttu, maasai vada, eral vadai, eral gravy, nandu gravy, kanava fry, chicken kotthu, mutton kotthu, and more. Each dish is crafted in the age-old tradition, free of additives. They reflect the stories of our life back home,” she shares.

This endeavour has given newfound confidence upon the women previously confined within four walls. “We have acquired a sense of self-sufficiency and resilience. The trust placed in us by the community empowers us. I used to run a garment shop, which I had to close during the pandemic. This restaurant symbolises a second chance at life for many like me. We can scale the business with more support,” she notes.

Rohini, who also participated in the two-day Refugee Food Festival, Oorum Unnavum, held in June in Chennai, says, “The people of Chennai have wholeheartedly accepted us and our cuisine. Sri Lankan culture is renowned for nurturing both body and spirit, and that remains our collective mission and vision.”

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26Dec
A paper route to the plate- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

In the bustling pace of today’s digital world, where the Internet reigns as our all-encompassing resource, there’s a treasure often overlooked — humble handwritten recipes and comforting cookbooks, lovingly preserved within the four walls of our homes. When we immerse ourselves in the measurements and ingredients in these pages, we are surrounded by the culinary wisdom of cooks from the past, the guidance of those in the present, and the enduring legacy of closely guarded family traditions. This intimate connection to our roots cannot be replicated by the sea of recipes available on the web.

Tasty tributes

American writer Laurie Colwin’s quote ‘No one who cooks, cooks alone’ resonates deeply with Sunanda Vasudevan, who is currently pursuing her master’s degree in Graphic Design in Visual Experience in Georgia, USA. She sustains herself with the solace of her grandmother Vijayalakshmi Ranganathan’s self-published cookbook Unavu Vagaigalum, Thayarippu Muraigalum to satiate her cravings for home food.

Sundanda recalls the festival days when their landline would be abuzz with loved ones seeking her grandma’s guidance, who had jotted down the measurements in red and blue ink, safeguarding these heirloom recipes. With a large family and numerous recipe requests, the family meticulously transcribed her handwritten notes into English. This collaboration gave life to the recipes, and they managed to sell more than 1,000 copies. They priced the book at a nominal `60, using the proceeds to support a charitable cause.

“My grandma passed away in her early 70s, but her love knew no bounds. She would personally sign and gift each copy to every new bride with vethalai and paaku, blessing them. My thatha, TA Ranganathan, affectionately known as TAR, worked for the AGS office, and everyone associated that name with the privilege of savouring grandma’s handmade food. Her book is the Bible for our family and friends. To this day, I carry copies with me when I travel abroad,” says Sundanda who feels the closest to her paati when she cooks her recipes.

Echoing a similar feeling is Dhwani Sabesh. Dhwani and her family’s love language has always been food. Recounting a heartwarming family gesture when her maternal grandmother passed away, she says, “We photocopied our Sarasa paati’s recipes and compiled them into a booklet, a cherished memento shared with everyone. These recipes became a part of their beloved paati, forever etching her memory in the hearts and kitchens of the family.” She coauthored Paati’s Rasam, a children’s picture book, with her mother Janaki Sabesh, a well-known actor and storyteller, to drive home the memories and recipes of her culinary showstopper — delicious, piping hot rasam.

Tried and tasted

The charm of cookbooks was more than just the recipes. The tactile experience brought warmth and nostalgia and served as a portal to the past. Now, who knows this better than Sabita Radhakrishna, a food historian and the cookbook author of Annapurni — Heritage Cuisine from Tamil Nadu, Aharam… Traditional Cuisine of Tamil Nadu, Paachakam: Heritage Cuisine of Kerala and more.

At the age of 18, as a young bride, Sabita’s cooking skills were far from proficient. However, she found a lifeline in snail mail, where her mother sent cherished handwritten recipes, bearing the stains of turmeric and love. “Determined to preserve these treasures, I decided to collect and document them. A pivotal moment arrived when UBI Publishing commissioned me to create a cookbook encompassing the traditional cuisines of the four southern states. My mission was clear: to craft a cookbook that was practical, straightforward, and true to the original recipes. I measure my success by the feedback of my readers, young and old,” says Sabita, who painstakingly standardised and tested each recipe to ensure it tasted just as her mother had prepared it. The result was Aharam…Traditional Cuisine of Tamil Nadu, which won the Gourmand award for the category Best Local Cookery Book in India for the year 2002, sparking Sabita’s subsequent writing ventures. Currently, she’s on a mission to document 150 recipes, with the majority being her mother’s tried and tested dishes.

Among the many followers of Sabita’s works is Muhilann Murugan, a pastry shop owner who embarked on his recipe collection journey just three years ago when he received Sabita’s cookbook as a gift. It ignited his culinary passion; offering more than just recipes, it connected him to a community-based cooking experience, where each dish was enriched with stories and tidbits. “What made Sabita amma’s cookbooks truly special was their ability to provide not only ingredients and instructions but also a profound understanding of the technical aspects of cooking, making it an enriching and educational journey. Besides recipes, cookbooks of those days also carry pin kurippugal (tips), random scribbles, and kolams. That’s what makes them truly special and personal. Collecting recipes from loved ones is also a way of maintaining relationships,” explains Muhilann.

Culinary chronicles

Cookbook enthusiasts remain staunch advocates of the enduring authenticity that printed cookbooks have maintained over time, refusing to be drowned out by the constant noise of YouTube videos and Instagram reels.

Aparna Raghavan’s job took her to rural areas. An unexpected but delightful consequence of it was a growing affection for regional cuisine. “My husband and I are avid collectors of cookbooks. We are currently experimenting with Marathi recipes from Pangat, a Feast. Personally, internet recipes don’t appeal to me; cookbooks are reliable, accurate, and lasting. They simplify recipe replication, eliminating the need to juggle multiple versions of the same dish in your mind. Back then, cookbooks were also a way of introducing a family to a cuisine other than its own,” notes Aparna, who remembers her mother compiling recipes from various editions of Ananda Vikatan.

Aparna’s periamma, married to a defence officer, introduced her family to Punjabi cuisine and other north Indian recipes using paneer. “The word ‘authentic’ has lost some of its luster in the modern culinary landscape, diluted by overuse. I go for works by seasoned cooks like Mallika Badrinath and Chef Damu. Sometimes, I’d even try out a recipe or two from the Kindle version of their books and if it works out then it will be a part of my collection. There is always trustworthiness for recipes tried, tested, and perfected over time,” she adds.

In most South Indian households, cookbooks are an intrinsic part of growing up, with seasoned authors like Meenakshi Ammal (Samaithu Paar) and Tarla Dalal providing the foundation for culinary exploration. Dhwani’s love affair with cookbooks began with a thoughtful gift from her best friend, a Nigella Lawson cookbook adorned with postits indicating the must-try recipes. Since then, her collection has grown to a staggering 51 cookbooks. “One of the joys of owning cookbooks is discovering recipes you’d never have stumbled upon online. With vibrant examples like Yotam Ottolenghi’s mango and aubergine salad with soba noodles, cookbooks inspire experimentation and creativity in the kitchen. My friend gifted me a personalised cookbook for my birthday featuring all my comfort foods. That’s my go-to book even now,” she fondly shares.

Cookbooks not only enhance personal cooking but also serve as cultural archives for lesser-known communities. Sumaiya Mustafa, a writer based in Kayalpattinam, emphasises that it’s the intent, rather than the mode of documentation, that truly matters. She highlights how recipes reflect lived experiences, providing insights into the rich history of trade and the fusion of culinary traditions in her coastal town. “Despite the culinary wealth of Tamil Muslims, particularly in Kayalpat t inam, remaining largely undiscovered, there’s a plethora of unexplored recipes beyond the stereotypes of biryani and kebabs. Representation and understanding are crucial to unveil the hidden treasures of this cuisine, often closely guarded within the community. Unfortunately, there aren’t many cookbooks that have our heirloom recipes,” adds Sumaiya, who writes extensively about microcultures and culinary practices and has a keen interest in Indian Ocean history. In a mission to spread the word about her coastal town, she’s been passionately compiling stories about people, food, and the culture of Kayalpattinam on her Instagram page, @readingtv.

Traditionalists like Sabita deem cookbooks essential for those seeking a profound journey into the culinary arts, rigorous research, and the preservation of culinary legacies. Her personal cookbook collection narrates the tale of her lifelong culinary exploration, a passion she eagerly shares with others who appreciate their worth.

As we traverse the everchanging culinary landscape, it’s essential to recognise that not all recipes are foolproof, and there will be successes and failures. Nevertheless, cookbooks will forever maintain a cherished position in the hearts of many, serving as revered custodians of the culinary heritage that enhances our lives.

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25Dec
Kahwa and Quinces in Kashmir- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

The samovar bubbles in a corner, spreading the sweet fragrance of saffron and cardamom in the air. It is autumn in Kashmir and the sun plays hide and seek from in between the walnut trees—the perfect time to sit out and savour the traditional kahwa. Cookie-shaped kandi kulchas made of flour, butter, sugar and sprinkled with poppy seeds are passed around to be dipped into the tea and relished.

At Afshan Rashid’s farm, Baag Manzuk in Pulwama near Srinagar, plans are afoot to forage for dandelion leaves, also known as hand in Kashmir. The antioxidant and mineral-rich greens are a healthy side dish or one of the main dishes served at a meal. “One of the primary reasons for starting this farm is for our daughter to see where our food comes from,” says Rashid, pointing out that while the apples are for retail purpose, the rest of the vegetables and fruits grown here are to appreciate the delicate connection between nature and food.

Vanshika Bhatia, chef-partner at Gurugram’s ingredient-first vegetarian café OMO, loves exploring new places, ingredients and techniques. 

Bread, vegetables and fruits in the market and orchards

A few months ago, she and her team were in Nagaland and this time, they chose Kashmir for the valley’s rich and diverse culinary heritage. Once back home, she would prepare a menu showcasing the ingredients and cooking techniques they learnt in Kashmir. At Rashid’s farm, Bhatia has extracted natural food colour from cockscomb flower known as mawal, and fried quince, known as bam tchoonth, for a dish with meat. The weather is perfect for an evening stroll near the Lal Chowk market, not far from the Dal Lake.

The autumn season, which extends till November, also known as harud in Kashmir, is when chinar leaves start turning golden-brown. The streets are lined with vegetables of all sorts and colours. There are stalls selling monji gaade (fried fish served with radish chutney), nadir monji (fried lotus stems) and local breads, including the donut-shaped czochworu sprinkled with either sesame or poppy seeds.

Vanshika Bhatia

Lotus stem also known as nadru, is another popular vegetable. Bulbous garlic and red potatoes jostle for space with vendors selling roasted chestnuts, which make for a delicious snack on nippy October evenings. At another farm near Srinagar with a beautiful view of the Manasbal Lake, Anjum Yousuf welcomes visitors to look around the abundant apple trees.

For people who have only ever bought fruits in supermarkets, there is no bigger delight than plucking a ripe fruit straight from the tree and take a big bite. Yousuf retails organic and preservative-free products such as desi cow ghee, different types of cheese, including the stretchy and dense kalari cheese known locally as maish krej, jams, semolina phirni, quince murabba and traditional Kashmiri waer masala.

With roads being closed during winters and the supply of fresh vegetables cut off, it becomes imperative for residents of the state to sun-dry vegetables and store them for use during the cold months. On window sills and terraces, one can spot small piles of brinjals, cherry tomatoes, gourds and turnips being sun-dried. Once soaked in hot water, these veggies are ready to be used. For Bhatia’s team, this deep dive into the culinary world of Kashmir has only enriched their knowledge. “The vibrant tapestry of Kashmiri cuisine beckons me to explore different techniques and ingredients, each telling a tale of tradition and artistry,” she says, as she breathes in the crackling fresh air.

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25Dec
Bowled over the great Ramen revolution- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

Stirring up a slurpy storm, the humble wheat noodle is driving the great ramen revolution in India. No longer limited to its traditional Chinese roots—a dish crafted with kansui, an alkaline substance—these noodles, soaked in a simmering broth of vegetables or meat, with an array of toppings, have transcended boundaries. Its widespread availability and adaptability are clear indicators of its popularity. With frequent appearances in K-dramas, food pop-ups, literature, in addition to social media, ramen has evolved into a culinary icon. Home cooks, chefs, bloggers and food enthusiasts alike are also showcasing their ramen creativity, making the dish a cult favourite.

Chefs indigenise cuisines to woo local palates. The result is the desi curry-based ramen, which is served not just in bowls, but also in buns and tacos. Apart from simple staples such as green onions, egg whites and bean sprouts, the dish is also prepared with exotic kelp, sea urchin and matsutake mushrooms.

 Mama’s spicy ramen bow

“Anime has played a big part in making ramen a cultural icon,” says Vidushi Sharma, founder and head chef, Mensho Tokyo, Delhi.

Chinese immigrants brought ramen to Japan after the Meiji Restoration in 1868. 

Often confused with Korean ramyun, which is more fast food than gourmet, ramen’s simple beginnings have been expanded on an innovative global style like many indigenous recipes.

Take, for instance, the inventive Matcha Tori Paitan Ramen at Mensho Tokyo, where the chicken broth is infused with ceremonial grade matcha.

“This unconventional addition introduces a slightly grassy flavour to the broth. It is topped with a soufflé-like egg white,” says Sharma.

Broth is the soul of ramen. Being one of the most dynamic dishes, each component of the ramen bowl is customisable.

Its versatility lies in countless broths; versions that are rich and buttery, light and salty, classic soy sauce avatars, made with fermented miso or spicy Tiananmen.

Slow-simmered concoctions, like the one offered at Go Go Ramen in Chennai is made with slow-cooked pork, kept on the fire for 18 hours to impart a luscious, full-bodied taste.

The ramen toppings are eclectic—truffle oil, foie gras, yuzu zest, pickled plum, lobster, caviar and caramelised leeks. “Nutrition-rich miso, organic greens, bean sprouts and bamboo are popular with diners. There are plenty of ingredient options for vegans as well, such as miso-glazed tofu, shiitake ‘bacon’, charred corn, beetroot ribbons, basil-flavoured artichoke and lime-infused cauliflower.

While avant-garde seasonings such as chilli oil, mirin (a sweet rice wine), and black garlic oil have their fans, the timeless salt and soy seasoning has survived change. Low-sodium versions are easily available, too,” says Chef Saurabh Sharan of Japanese restaurant Guppy in Delhi.

The culinary exploration continues with the myriad noodle varieties—thick, thin, straight, curvy, curly, flat and wide. Artisanal hand-made noodles, the kind made by celebrated chef Yasuhito Kosugi at Harima, his restaurant in Bengaluru, has a growing gourmet clientele.

The ramen’s uneven texture helps hold and absorb the broth better and makes the noodles more chewy. “Then there are alternate noodles made with whole wheat, buckwheat, millet and rice. New, popular varieties are of sweet potato starch or vegetable-based,” says Sharan, who believes that the success of a ramen dish lies in its simplicity, made with natural and fresh ingredients. 

Cold ramen, also known as Hiyashi Chuka, is gaining popularity with experimental desi epicures. Served with chilled noodles and an assortment of raw vegetables such as cucumber, carrots and cabbage, it is a comparative novelty in the Indian culinary scene.

Ram Bahadur Budhathoki, head chef, Chowman chain of restaurants, speaks about another in-demand version—seasonal preparations, which incorporate nutritionally loaded local produce. 

“I would recommend pok choy, enoki mushroom, scallions, snow peas and Chinese cabbage for this time of the year,” he suggests.

Fusion foodies have given Indian-style ramen the thumbs up. Reminiscent of the much-loved chicken soup is the heartwarming spicy chicken ramen bowl at Mamagoto.

“It’s a soul-soothing broth topped with noodles, buttered corn, spinach, nori sheet, minced chicken, marinated eggs and a selection of spices.

Think of it as comfort food,” says Siddharth, brand chef, Mamagoto, who underlines the popularity of Indian ingredients such as turmeric, cumin and coriander. There is nothing like being in a soup sometimes.

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24Dec
A thoughtful journey- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

HYDERABAD: Deciding to embrace a vegan lifestyle is a personal choice driven by various reasons. For some, it’s about a commitment to making mindful choices; for others, it’s a means to achieve specific health goals or to support broader environmental and social objectives. While a vegan diet offers numerous benefits, it’s essential to remember that it’s just one of many ways to achieve these objectives.

A vegan diet primarily comprises plant-based foods, entirely excluding animal products such as dairy, meat, and even honey. “This dietary choice has been associated with several health benefits, including better management of conditions like cancer, diabetes, cardiovascular diseases, hypertension, and obesity, along with effective weight management,” said Aswini Sagar, founder, Ahaarveda, ahead of World Vegan Day.

Transitioning to a vegan diet
For individuals accustomed to a traditional diet, transitioning to a vegan lifestyle can be challenging. It’s important to recognise that this transition cannot happen overnight; it requires careful planning and a gradual shift. “The pace of the transition should align with individual energy levels, commitment, and capability,” Sagar said. “Start by making two to three changes at a time rather than attempting a complete transformation all at once. For example, if you’re accustomed to a non-vegetarian diet, you could begin with plant-based options and then progress to full veganism,” she added. 

The duration of the transition can vary widely, lasting anywhere from one week to one or two months, depending on individual comfort levels and adaptability. Sagar mentioned that home-cooked meals play an important role in the transition to a vegan diet as they offer variety and stability. 

Challenges and precautions
Transitioning to a vegan diet may come with a unique set of challenges. Firstly, individuals may grapple with the substantial volume of food while shifting, as plant-based protein sources can be bulkier compared to non-vegetarian alternatives. This adjustment can be perplexing for those accustomed to non-vegetarian diets.

Moreover, the transition demands time and energy, and changes in bowel movements, energy levels, and digestion may occur, which individuals need to adapt to gradually. It’s essential to recognise that these changes are part of the process and not a cause for concern.

While embracing a vegan lifestyle is a commendable choice, it’s crucial to make informed decisions and ensure nutritional adequacy. One should be mindful of dietary balance, as not all vegan options offer the same nutritional value as their non-vegetarian counterparts. Understanding the alternatives and making nutritionally sound choices is vital.

“Certain precautions are necessary for specific groups, such as children and pregnant women. They must ensure that their nutritional needs are met during critical stages of growth and development,” Sagar mentioned. 

Embarking on a vegan journey leads to several positive physical changes, such as improved metabolism, enhanced gut health, better skin, hair, and nail health, and an overall boost in immunity. These changes are a result of the nutritional benefits of a well-balanced vegan diet.

However, it’s essential to note that veganism requires careful planning to avoid potential deficiencies, especially in vitamin D and vitamin B12, which are not readily available in vegan foods. Proper supplementation or fortified foods may be necessary.

Choosing a vegan lifestyle is a personal decision, but it’s not a one-size-fits-all approach, and individuals need to adapt their transition to their own capabilities and preferences. Proper planning, education, and a balanced approach are key to success.

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24Dec
Putting waste to use- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

Did you know that pea pods, which we so often discard, make for excellent soups and crispy fritters? Or, that the roots and stalks of coriander also work wonders in a herb-y pesto, with roasted leftover bread fashioned as chips? This is also the perfect season to use fruit peels to jazz up a cocktail or a robust cup of tea. Welcome to an epoch-making era, where mixologists, bakers and chefs across the country are championing a dual cause of zero waste and sustainability.

Zero Warriors

One such flag-bearer is Vanshika Bhatia, chef-partner at OMO Cafe, an all-vegetarian community restaurant in Gurugram. “From using peels and offcuts for vegetable stock, chutneys and dehydrated powders, scraps play a big role in many dishes at OMO,” says Bhatia. One of the most successful examples of this philosophy is a dish made with millets and pineapple ceviche. While the other chefs work with the pulp, the peel is used to make house ferments by Athan Zimik, the restaurant’s culture chief.

A classic case of how sustainability has slowly been making inroads across the Indian F&B scene and even entering into bars is KhiKhi in Vasant Vihar, Delhi. At this bar and kitchen, before the juice of a lemon is squeezed out, the skin is peeled to make their own homemade lemon chiller. The same skin, once its job is done, is made into a paste, which is used as a marinade for fish. “Sustainability doesn’t only mean using the maximum out of a given ingredient, but also about the understanding of what produce to use,” says chef-partner Tarun Sibal. “Take, for instance, our Paloma cocktail uses local citrus. Be it the malta, kinnow, or the humble mosambi, we use seasonal produce to give a tang to the drink,” he adds.

Pumpkin chutney

Past Perfect

What’s interesting to note is that zero waste has always existed in India. Bengaluru’s New Krishna Bhavan has been a pioneer since 1954. This vegetarian restaurant located on Sampige Road has made the 3Rs its credo: Reduce, Reuse, Recycle. This means that all plastic is replaced by stainless steel, wet waste (mostly comprising fruit and vegetable peels) is given to a local piggery, and the high volume of coconut husk is sent back to the vendor, who in turn gives it to rope and choir manufacturers.

Goa’s Edible Archives is another restaurant in the town of Anjuna that does everything, from using local sticky rice in lieu of imported sushi variety to liaising with farmers for fresh vegetables and other produce, and composting the wet waste on site. “As chefs, we are accountable for safeguarding the environment and adopting practices that reduce the impact of waste. For example, if you take one kilogram of onions, the yield is 80-85 percent, and the rest is skin, roots and stalks. That waste impact is enormous,” says Avin Thaliath, chef, and also director of Lavonne Academy of Baking Science and Pastry Arts in Bengaluru. He makes it a point to source local produce that is available within 50-100 km vicinity. “We minimise food waste by converting leftovers into a creative menu,” says Thaliath, speaking of a yet-to-be-named sandwich that he created combining ingredients like coriander root and watermelon skin and flesh as part of the mock meat. The bread is made from raw banana flour and millet, with crushed watermelon seeds used as a coating.

Booked In

Segueing perfectly into this zero waste zeitgeist is the recently published book, The No-Waste Kitchen Cookbook. Written by Arina Suchde, a chef and mixologist based in Mumbai, it serves as a guide to cooking with scraps, reviving wilted greens and creatively utilising leftovers. “We live in times where there is so much disparity.

On one hand, there are people who have the luxury of buying whatever they want with just the click of a button, and on the other hand, there are people who don’t know where their next meal is coming from.The responsibility of making sure precious food doesn’t end up in landfills falls on the former,” believes Suchde.

To that end, the IBNII resort in Coorg has a policy that places the burden of mindful consumption on the consumer. After every meal, the food waste generated by each table at all of their restaurants is weighed. The cost of the waste is then charged to the diner (around Rs 100 per 100 grams) and this amount goes into a kitty that is later donated in aid of hunger.A truly weighty attempt at a solution to a major problem.

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23Dec
Unhealthy food adding $7.3 trillion in hidden costs to global economy, finds UN body- The New Indian Express

By AFP

PARIS: The food and agriculture system adds at least $10 trillion in “hidden costs” to the global economy every year due to unhealthy diets, emissions and undernourishment, a UN agency said on Monday.

The Food and Agriculture Organization said it conducted an analysis in 154 countries to determine the “true” cost of the agrifood system.

The global quantified hidden costs totalled around $12.7 trillion in 2020, representing almost 10 percent of the global gross domestic product, the FAO estimated.

“The future of our agrifood systems and, indeed, of our planet hinges on our willingness to acknowledge these true costs and understand how we all contribute to them,” said FAO Director-General Qu Dongyu.

ALSO READ | Eativity Crisis: On the unhealthy obsession with food

The study found that 73 percent of the hidden costs are linked to bad diets that are high in ultra-processed foods, fats and sugars, causing obesity and non-communicable diseases such as diabetes.

The FAO said the consequences include losses in labour productivity.

More than 20 percent of the hidden costs are associated with environmental issues including emissions from greenhouse gases and nitrogen, water use and changes to land use.

ALSO READ | Doctors want ads promoting junk food to be regulated 

Low-income countries are the worst hit by these hidden costs, which account for 27 percent of their GDP compared to 11 percent for middle-income nations and less than eight percent in the wealthy ones.

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22Dec
Of fasts, feasts & fiesta- The New Indian Express

By Express News Service

CHENNAI: Deepavali, the time when the light illuminates the nooks and crannies of the city, turning even the darkest corners into festive moods, is brewing in full force. Known as the Festival of Lights, this is a season where a flurry of activities, emotions, and delicacies, gets on board, especially in the vibrant metropolis of Chennai, a city where an array of diverse communities thrive.

A few days ahead of Deepavali, kitchens in several households are packed with utensils used to dole out some scrumptious sweets, snacks and a special menu. From the irresistible Mysore pak to the delicate soan papdi and the flavourful kaara paniyaram, tables are adorned with many a delicacy. 

Archita Raghu, Sonu M Kothari, and Sreelakshmi S Nair embark on a Deepavali spree to immerse themselves in the city’s cultural vibrancy, engaging with individuals from various communities, delving into their unique celebrations, capturing the essence of what the festival means to them, and curating their culinary offerings.

RamPrakash, culinary director, CRP Culinary, & traditional food researcher
Across the Kongu Nadu region, Deepavali is synonymous with a breakfast with steaming idli and poori accompanied by a range of spicy mutton dishes. For several Tamil communities in districts like Madurai, Tirunelveli, and Dindigul, this festival day begins with a trip to the meat market and the usual bath after massaging nalla ennai into their hair. At the dinner table, fluffy kaara paniyaram, adhirasam, minced chukka, and fried intestine curry await them. “Especially for this festival, idli and poori are made. While mutton dishes are usually made in this region, kudal kulambu is a favourite. With kudal, they would make kulambu or kootu. It is the best accompaniment for these dishes. With kadala paruppu, it is a signature dish,” explains Ramprakash, a Madurai-based traditional food researcher. The core of festivities and feasts in most villages revolves around connecting with nature, he says. “Every festival is a celebration of food; on that day, there are specific dishes and traditions. This differs across areas based on people’s lifestyles. Every dish has a soul and love,” he adds.

Aattu Kudal Kulambu 
Ingredients
Goat Intestine (chopped): 1 kg
Pearl onions/Shallots (chopped): 2 cups
Tomato, chopped:  2
Ginger garlic paste: 2 tbsp
Garlic, finely chopped: 6 pods
Curry leaves: A sprig
Coriander leaves: A pinch
Mint leaves: A small pinch
Green chilli: 3
Red chilli powder: 2 tsp
Coriander powder: 3 tsp
Pepper powder: 1 tsp
Turmeric powder: 1/4 tsp
Cinnamon: 2 small sticks
Bay leaves: 1
Cumin seeds: 1/2 tsp
Fried gram dal: 150 g
Oil as required
Salt to taste
For masala
Fennel seeds (Sombu): 1 tsp
Poppy seeds (Kasa Kasa): 1 tsp
Peppercorn: 1 tbsp
Shredded coconut: 1/2 cup
Peanut: 3 tsp

Method
To clean the goat intestine, place the bag inside a pot of boiling water, and keep it closed. After 10 minutes, remove it, and take out the tubular structure. With a brush, rub the surface to peel off the thorn-like layer. Run each tube under water for around 20 minutes, till clean. Cut the bag, and then the tube into small pieces. Add turmeric and wash again.

For the curry
Soak hard-fried gram dal in warm water for two hours. Grind shredded coconut, peppercorn, poppy seeds, fennel seeds, and peanuts into a fine paste. Set aside. In a pressure cooker, heat oil and add cinnamon sticks, bay leaves, and cumin seeds till they splutter. Add chopped garlic, curry leaves, green chilies. After the raw smell goes, add onion, tomato, and ginger garlic paste and sautè it well. Add the soaked fried gram dal, turmeric powder, and the ground mixture. On medium flame, add chilli powder, coriander powder, and pepper powder. Add kudal pieces and roast the masala. Add a cup of water and the salt needed. Close the cooker, and cook for about nine whistles. Garnish with coriander leaves. 

Varsha Panjabi, food connoisseur
Deepavali in a Sindhi household is a grand affair. The day starts at three in the morning when special sweets are prepared for the festival. “We start the day a little earlier than usual with a small prayer in the morning followed by a Diwali party in the afternoon,” says Varsha Panjabi, a food connoisseur. Right after the sunset, a Lakshmi puja is arranged. “Since most people of the community are businessmen, the day is also considered to be the first day of a financial year,” shares Varsha. Only after lighting the home with diyas does a family step out, because it is also said that “Lakshmi ma visits only the places that are brightly lit.” Towards the end of the day, the family comes together for the fireworks, followed by a game of cards. “Playing cards or gambling on Diwali is considered to be very auspicious,” adds Varsha.

Dry Fruit Varo 
Ingredients
Mixed nuts almonds, cashews, 
pistachio: 3/4 cup 
Sugar: 1/2 cup 
Ghee: 1 tsp
Cardamom powder: a pinch
Poppy seeds: 1 tbsp

Method
Dry roast the nuts in a heavy bottom pan for two minutes. Keep it aside. In a heavy bottom pan, add ghee and poppy seeds, and let it cook. Add sugar to the mix, and let it cook on low flame. Keep stirring on a medium flame till sugar gets caramelised. Add cardamom powder to it along with nuts and turn off the heat. Pour the mixture on a greased plate/baking sheet or a chapati maker and roll with a rolling pin to even it. While it is still warm, cut into desired-size incisions and let it cool. Break into pieces once it cools off or serve it as discs. Store brittle in a tight container.

PH Shivaram, master mariner

EXPRESS ILLUSTRATION

Deepavali takes on a unique significance in the Bengali community as it coincides with the worship of Goddess Kali, hence celebrating the goddesses’ win over evil. Shivaram, reflecting on the Bengali celebration of the festival, explains that the day preceding Deepavali is observed as Naraka Chaturdashi or Bhoot Chaturdashi, signifying the belief that 14 generations or ancestral spirits from the past generations visit the earth to meet their dear ones.

This occasion is marked by the lighting of 14 diyas around the household. Subsequently, the following day, on Amavasya, the community partakes in Kali Pujo, an event dedicated to the worship of Goddess Kali. “When I was a kid, the day before Kali Pujo used to be a Halloween kind of day for us kids, where we used to go to our relatives and neighbour houses,” says Shivaram.

The pujo entails the serving of bhog, a sacred food offering to the goddess, featuring delicacies such as khichdi, chanar payesh (a sweet cottage cheese mixture), and various chutneys, symbolising the cultural richness and spiritual significance of the occasion.

Shakeena Banu, home chef
In Kanpur, the night before Deepavali, Shakeena Banu’s household would begin their preparations for traditional dishes like flavourful mutton biryani and creamy sheer khurma. As the festival descends, Shakeena and the other communities — from Kashmir to Tamil Nadu — in their colony would congregate and feast together. “There will be people from all over India. It didn’t matter which caste or religion we belong to. We celebrate as a community,” she says.

This tradition, which she has kept up for 15 years, followed her when she moved to Chennai. A recipe that she whips up for every Deepavali feast is the savoury mutton balls that have roots in the Maratha cuisine of Thanjavur — kayiru katti kola. “It is a family favourite. It has minced mutton, coconut, pottu kadalai, and spices. It is fried and made into a ball, and to hold it in shape, they tie it with rope. My grandmother used to have a banana stem to roll; now we don’t get it anymore,” Shakeena says. Her children’s friends frequent the house to pack boxes of biryani and share their love. “Beyond festivals, it is a great gathering,” she signs off.

Sheer khurma
Ingredients
Fine rumali semiya: 1 cup
Milk: 3/4 L
Khoya: 100 g
Sugar: 1 cup (adjust to taste)
Chopped dates: 15 nos
Assorted nuts, finely chopped
Ghee: 50 ml
Saffron: a few strands
Method
Heat a skillet, add 1/2 cup of ghee, and roast the rumali semiya until golden brown. Keep it aside for it to cool. In another pan, boil the milk until it thickens to 500 ml. Add the roasted semiya and cook until soft. Add sugar and khoya to it and mix well. In the skillet, add the rest of the ghee and roast the assorted nuts until golden brown. Add the chopped dates to the semiya and mix well so that the mixture thickens. Transfer the nuts with ghee to the semiya. Save some for the garnish. The sheer khurma is ready to serve. 

Anitha, homemaker

According to Jainism, it is considered that Mahavira attained salvation on this day. Sweets are distributed, and people visit temples, or sthanaks, a place where prayer meetings are held. “People pray for forgiveness for their wrongdoings. The prayer is 48 minutes long,” says Anitha. She adds that individuals also fast on this day. “Fasting helps in the purification of the body.” They believe that the day after Deepavali is the first day of a new year. Coming to the city, the community adapted a few traditions, like performing Lakshmi and Saraswathi puja. The community follows a tradition of hosting a puja in the evening. “A Lakshmi puja is done to invite the goddess into our homes,” she says.

Papdi

Ingredients
Refined wheat flour: 1 cup
Wheat flour: 1 cup
Gram flour: 1 cup
Oil: 2 tbsp
Carom seeds: 1 tsp
Red chilli powder: 1.5 tsp
Turmeric powder: 1/2 tsp 
Salt to taste 
Method
Mix the ingredients and knead well. Cover the dough with a cloth and let it rest for 15 minutes. Now, cut the dough into small parts and flatten them with a rolling pin. Deep fry in hot oil. Store in an air-tight container.

Vanisri Deena Bandhu, IT professional
The Festival of Lights brings positivity and hope, as the celebration is said to bring light over darkness. The people of Odisha believe that “by lighting lamps on our doorstep, we invite positivity into the home,” comments Vanisri, who has her roots in Bonsala.

With customs like preparing sweets and distributing them to friends and family and decorating the house with flowers and rangoli in the morning, the people of the Odia community follow a specific tradition of inviting the dead to their homes in the evening.

“We place cow dung on the floor and light jute sticks with earthen lamps lit in front of the house. Four people standing in a circle raise the sticks towards the sky, calling the forefathers,” says Vanisri, adding that this tradition is practiced to pay homage to the dead, and it is believed that by invoking the forefathers, the house and the family are blessed by them. The ritual is called ‘Bada Badua Daka’.

Thollatlo 

Ingredients
Rice flour: 50 g
Jeera water: 150 ml 
Sugar: 5-6 tbsp
Method
Prepare jeera water by boiling cumin seeds (jeera) in water. After boiling the water add sugar to it. Mix until the water boils to the consistency of a sugar syrup. Pour the rice flour into the liquid. Mix well and add water to adjust the consistency. Make round balls of the mixture and serve. 

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21Dec
A taste of vegetarian Kashmir- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

NEW DELHI: “The hardest thing for us was to convert a predominantly non-vegetarian cuisine to a vegetarian one,” says Chef Vanshika Bhatia of OMO, Gurugram.

Kashmiri cuisine is essentially meat-based. The multi-course Wazwan, a mouth-watering ceremonial feast, is now well-known for its innovative means of preparing meat.

“We took inspiration from the meals we had at the farms of Kashmir. The technique of slow cooking for hours, using a mortar and pestle in some capacity in each recipe and dried vegetables was very enlightening,” adds Bhatia who co-owns the restaurant with entrepreneurs Grace Muivah and Deepika Sethi

Sourced sustainably and from the far corners of the country, Gurugram’s first vegetarian cafe serves healthy food rooted in ethics on a plate. With every dish, they bring stories about how each ingredient plays a role in bringing communities together.

Bhatia says, “Team OMO keeps travelling across the country in search of Indian produce and to partner with farmers. We choose regions according to season and we felt like winter was a good time to introduce Kashmiri flavours.”

Our visit to the restaurant began with Kahwa, a Kashmiri tea simmered with cinnamon, cardamom, and saffron to which nuts and rose petals are added. Saffron cappuccino is another drink we recommend–the warm spice of the cinnamon complements the floral notes and inherent sweetness of the saffron threads of the beverage.

The main courses had a good blend of flavours, with interesting constituent elements forming the core of a dish. Pumpkin Fagottini for instance uses water spice emulsion. The pumpkin is dried and then cooked with lentils and water spice. “We then stuff it in pasta and serve it with pickled pumpkin and grilled Haak (saag).”

A dish from the new Kashmiri menu.

Next on the plate was Kohlrabi and Apple Salad—crisp kohlrabi and apples tossed with a tangy vinaigrette and sharp gouda cheese. Kohlrabi is a crisp cruciferous vegetable like broccoli and cauliflower. It’s a little sweet, a little savoury, and unexpectedly delicious!

“We always try different techniques, treating vegetables in different ways before we finalise what is the best way to showcase our travel story. We use techniques like the dehydration of vegetables, the way we cook a chilli paste, and the use of onion oil for cooking,” she says. 

We also tried the Nadru Yakhni; the lotus stem is a Kashmiri food staple. Kalari, a Dogra cheese that is used to make Kaladi Kulcha, among other dishes, is another must-try. It is a popular snack in Jammu.
Bhatia also drew our attention to some beautiful ingredients like quince, dandelion, cockscomb flowers, local shallots, lotus stem, and beagle beans in the making of vegetarian Kashmiri food. “We have treated most of the ingredients with techniques we learned in Kashmir and then created dishes that go with those elements,” she says.

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21Dec
Guide to Spain’s Galicia’s gastro galaxy- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

Far from touristy Barcelona and the party beaches of Ibiza, Galicia is the ideal place to start your own Spanish gastronomic pilgrimage. An autonomous region, it is tucked away in the north-western corner of the country, with Portugal at its southern border and the wild Atlantic crashing on its shores. It’s also the end point of Camino de Santiago, a network of ancient routes to the shrine of Saint James in the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.

After visiting the monumental cathedral, head over to Mercado de Abastos (food market) in the old town. While a market has been at this spot for three centuries, the current building dating back to 1941 comprises a series of long, light-filled halls with soaring ceilings. Its stalls are filled with the region’s freshest fruits and vegetables, meats, and—given Galicia’s long coastline—plenty of seafood. You will also find Galician DO (designation of origin) cheese like the creamy Cebreiro, smoky San Simón da Costa and the buttery Queso Tetilla, named for its pear shape with a pointed top (tetilla is Spanish for nipple).

It is likely that the produce you see in the market will be on your plate at one of the many eateries in town. In the bright and cheerful A Noiesa restaurant, try delicacies like pimientos de padrón (small peppers blistered in oil with a sprinkle of sea salt) and empanada (savoury pie stuffed with meat or seafood). “When in Galicia, don’t ask for paella,” says guide Ruben Araúxo; instead order arroz con mariscos, a rice casserole with assorted seafood like mussels, clams, scallops, etc. Unlike paella, the dish comes to the table with some stock still in the pot.

seafood platter

As you eat, the liquid gets absorbed into the rice giving it a rich flavour. If you’re keen to see where the shellfish comes from, an hour’s drive south of Santiago de Compostela will bring you to the coastal town of O Grove, where the Rías Baixas estuary meets the Atlantic Ocean. Hop on a catamaran to visit the shellfish farms that dot the waters; round off the experience with on-board lunch—either a huge shellfish platter or all-you-can-eat mussels.

An iconic dish of the region is pulpo a la Gallega or Galician-style octopus. It’s a traditional street snack; fishermen would cook freshly netted octopus in large copper pots. Try it at Casa Gazpara in O Carballiño where it’s prepared in traditional style, albeit in a stainless steel vessel. The octopus is slowly boiled in water, sliced and generously drizzled with olive oil, and finally dusted with salt and sweet paprika. It’s usually eaten with boiled potato and crusty bread on the side.

When it comes to Galician desserts, there’s no escaping tarta de Santiago or cake of Santiago. A rich cake made with almond flour and dusted with powdered sugar, it often features the elaborate cross of Saint James on top. Most restaurants serve it, and your hotel will certainly have it on the breakfast buffet. If you want to bring it back home, visit the Casal Cotón store in the old town.

Mercado de Abastos

Galicia produces excellent wines across five DO regions—Rías Baixas, Ribeiro, Ribeira Sacra, Valdeorras and Monterrei. At Pazo de Rubianes in Rías Baixas, successive generations of the same family have been making wine since the 15th century. The manor house’s extensive gardens and vineyards are open for visiting, followed by a wine-tasting of their crisp, aromatic white wines made from Albariño grapes.

At the other end of the spectrum are the elegant, fruity reds from Ribeira Sacra made with Mencía grapes. Here, they practise ‘heroic viticulture’, making wine against geographical odds. The vineyards stand on steep mountain slopes (an average of 45 degrees) overlooking the Sil River. Harvesting is a manual and strenuous process. The best place to witness this is at Regina Viarum, which offers an immersive winery tour followed by a tasting session on a glass balcony with spectacular views of the river canyon.

As a by-product of the wine-making process, many wineries also produce a distilled grape spirit called orujo. It is often flavoured with herbs or coffee beans and consumed as a digestif. It is also used to make the fiery punchqueimada. Orujo, sugar, coffee beans, lemon zest and cinnamon are mixed in a large clay bowl, and then set on fire while chanting Gallego spells. In a land where superstitions rule supreme, it’s a delicious way to ward off evil spirits.

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20Dec
Flavours of the Orient- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

BENGALURU: Whether you like eating a steaming bowl of ramen on a cold day or just enjoy looking at beautifully designed and constructed sushi from your favourite Japanese anime, food is definitely one of the most wholesome experiences in Japanese culture. The Japan Food Fest 2023 organised by the Consulate General of Japan in Bengaluru is coming back to the city on November 26, 2023, at Shangri-La Hotel to celebrate the rich flavours of Japanese cuisine.

Around 20 well-known restaurants in the city will be putting up stalls, and serving various delicacies. They will also have restaurants from other places like Puducherry and New Delhi. The fest will also feature a sashimi-cutting demonstration wherein a Japanese chef will showcase how sashimi is cut and made into rolls. “In order to deepen Japan-India relations, it is important to know, recognise, and respect each other’s culture. I believe that food is the basis of culture, and making Indian people taste Japanese food is a shortcut to learning about the Japanese culture at large,” says Nakane Tsutomu, Consul-General of Japan in Bengaluru.

The last edition saw around 1,900 people participating in the fest and this year, an upward of 2,000 people are expected. Tsutomu says, “I was surprised at the turnout at last year’s fest, it was unfortunate that I was not able to taste the food at the stalls due to the many friends and acquaintances who came to the event. The Sushi Exhibition held at Chitrakala Parishath in August this year attracted 5,500 visitors in two weeks. We are pleased to see the growing popularity of Japanese food in Bengaluru.”

Speaking about the city’s cultural inclusivity, Tsutomu says, “Bengaluru, with its favourable climate, has always attracted a diverse range of people from all over India. Therefore, I understand that Japanese culture, especially Japanese food culture, can be tried without prerequisites or barriers, and accepted as each person feels. Japanese food is said to be eaten with all five senses, and we hope that everyone in Bengaluru will enjoy it.” He further adds that technique and precision are very important to the cuisine.

“Some of the most important aspects of Japanese cooking are the five methods (cutting, boiling, grilling, steaming, and frying), five tastes (sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and umami), relished with five senses (sight, hearing, smell, touch, and taste), and five colours (red, yellow, green, white, and black) which is very pleasing to the eye.”

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20Dec
United flavours of Moscow will take your taste buds on a culinary voyage- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

If there’s a cuisine you can’t find in Moscow, you’re probably not looking hard enough. The variety of dining options available in Russia’s capital reflects an inclusive city of 12 million people with migrants from all corners of the globe adding to its vibrant multicultural tapestry. Azeri, Greek, Serbian, Georgian? You name it, and Moscow has it.

As an ode to the city, kickstart your culinary explorations with hi-tech Russian cuisine at the two-Michelin star Twins Garden. Located high above Moscow’s rooftops, with a breathtaking view of the city, the handsome eatery’s accolades are a testament to its constant innovation. Think highly Gram-worthy food and wine, all smoke and sizzle. Founded in 2017 by twin brothers Ivan and Sergey Berezutsky, the food here has been developed in its own R&D laboratory combining gastronomy with science. While some products are fermented, others are 3D-printed or freeze-dried for effect. Vegetables and fruits are sourced from the eatery’s organic farm with sustainable wines crafted from homegrown vegetables, mushrooms and herbs.

The seven-course tasting menu at the highly recommended Rediscover Russia will take your taste buds on a culinary voyage across the world’s largest country. Each course is based on a particular region. For instance, ‘Kostroma’ is devoted to the eponymous city famous as Russia’s cheese capital. The server wheels in a trolley with five different cheeses—truffle, cheddar, parmesan, raclette and Beaufort—asking you to select the one you’d like your pasta to be flavoured with. Far from the run-of-the-mill floury one, the pasta is crafted from gluten-free trumpet clam meat and served with tomato sauce and macaroni chips.

The ‘Yaroslavi’ is based on the UNESCO heritage city that nestles along the Volga. Famous for its rabbit farming, this course proffers melt-in-the-mouth pan-fried rabbit combined with baked aubergine and cabbage. Stellar accompaniments include cauliflower puree cooked with milk extracted from Siberian cedar nuts, besides a vanilla truffle sauce and pickled cabbage.

Similarly, the ‘Rostov’ course—an ode to Lake Rostov that breeds the delicious rapan fish—includes the fish served with mushrooms, fresh greens and a seaweed pate. But wait. Before it is served, the plate is heated to 60°C, a process (during which it also changes colour and transparency), symbolising that everything in the world is in motion and changeable. The piece de resistance of the exceptional meal is the dessert—Vladimir—that will likely elicit many oohs and aahs for its skillful rendition of red cherries done five different ways.

Haute cuisine is increasingly becoming popular in Moscow, what with nine Michelin-anointed eateries. Check out the one-Michelin star Grand Cru restaurant where you can sample its signature French menu featuring seafood and vegetables complemented by unusual ingredients: Think josper-roasted squid from the Commander Islands with nori chips; seafood raviolo in smoked tomato soup or lamb tongue with pumpkin parmentier. The menu is seasonal and the wine list is revised daily incorporating nearly 2,000 different varietals. The tipples are all sourced from vineyards in the South of France where the terroir produces finely balanced vinos.

Not to be missed is Bagebi, a Georgian restaurant that serves traditional recipes in an inventive way. The artsy eatery’s mural-splashed walls and gigantic enamels and paintings are all the handiwork of legendary artist Zurab Tsereteli. The restaurant is named after a district in the Georgian capital Tbilisi. Relish steaming platters of kharcho (beef soup), khachapuri (cheese-filled bread), khinkali (dumplings) and more. It can all be washed down with delicious Georgian wines aged in qvevris (egg-shaped amphorae without handles), the process endorsed by UNESCO as an Intangible Heritage. 

The award-winning Kefi in downtown Moscow will also be a worthy stop on your gastronomic trail. The restaurant’s beef cheeks and crème brûlée come highly recommended. Try gems like dolmades (grape leaves stuffed with ground meat and rice), Lima Beans baked in an herby tomato sauce and keftedakia (beef meatballs), the protein’s succulence enhanced by the sauce’s umami. Don’t forget the olive oil-infused skordalia (garlicky potatoes) that will likely disappear from the plate sooner than you could utter ‘Rastapopulous’.

The rich waterbodies encircling Russia teem with a variety of exotic seafood that invariably finds its way to restaurant tables. Leveraging this bounty is Xolodok, a seafood bistro, located in downtown Moscow. From its exhaustive menu, order oysters done three ways; a trio of caviars (Beluga, Ossetra, Sevruga) served with blini and a main of capers-anointed salmon steak awash in a lemon-butter sauce.

After days of gluttony, during which you’ll rue not wearing pants with stretchable bands, the verdict will be unanimous: Perhaps there’s no dining scene in Europe as flamboyant, dynamic and exciting as Moscow’s.

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19Dec
In the mood for merrymaking- The New Indian Express

By Express News Service

CHENNAI : As the chilly winds of December blow into town with the promise of a prosperous new year, the scent of sugary treats and goodies baking in ovens wafts from bustling kitchens worldwide. After all, no Christmas celebration is complete without the fruity delight of a plum cake topped with white frosting. As seen in our grandmothers’ handy recipes and the bakers’ precise cookbook, all plum cakes must be mixed with a sizeable amount of dry fruits, a splash of liquor, and dashes of love.

In the spirit of celebrations, armed with 50 kilos of dry fruits and 30 litres of liquor, Hotel Ambica Empire in Vadapalani held a cake-making ceremony on Thursday. Inside the grand lobby, visitors were greeted by Christmas trees strung up with lights, sparkling bottles of rum and wine, and the sugary aromas. Within three silver trays, colourful dry fruits, such as raisins and tutti-frutti, and nuts like rich almonds and walnuts, were painstakingly decorated into a Christmas tree and shaped a line wishing guests a Merry Christmas. While the pandemic halted festivities the past few years, Hotel Ambica Empire — which has a legacy spanning 25 years — hopes to revive its celebrations.

“This is the first celebration we are conducting after our renovation. During the cake-mixing ceremony, we will mix dry fruits and nuts and preserve the mixture in our kitchen. Before Christmas, we will use the mixture for the preparation of plum cakes. It will be used before, after, and during Christmas and also for New Year,” says general manager R Kalathinathan, urging citizens to visit the hotel to partake in the celebrations. Actor-singer Mano and music director Sirpi graced the event. 

December is a month of joy and a season of harvest. As Aditya Prakash Singh, food and beverage manager, explains, “The cake mixing started in the 17th century AD. With these nuts, people make plum cakes, and this mixture for the plum cake can be soaked for one to two weeks.”

This mixture, Chef Ravichandran adds, will result in over moist, delightful 300 cakes of 100 kg for the holiday season. Apart from chilly winds, this season also brings bountiful cakes and treats.

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19Dec
The super Georgian Supra- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

On its platter, there’s a bit of everyone who has ever called Georgia home. Nestled in the cusp of Europe and Asia, this little country’s built heritage sits like a palimpsest over its past—an ancient culture, that flowered in the wake of myriad rulers and visitors passing through the Silk Route.

There were Europeans, Anatolians, Persians, Ottomans, Far Eastern settlers, Arabians and finally, the Russians, who have left vestiges of their cultures behind, of which food is a pivotal part.

About a two-hour drive away from the capital Tbilisi lies the village of Tsinandali, home to the country’s renowned wine named after the village, in the historical and mountainous province of Kakheti to the east. There is no better place to experience Georgia’s culinary landscape than at Tsinandali, where Natella—a Georgian restaurant in the Tsinandali Estate, Radisson Hotel—serves Kakhetian cuisine, and a traditional Georgian supra. Supra, in the local tongue, means ‘table cloth’: the one which covers the large table laid out for the lavish nosh-up with friends and strangers alike.

The carefully orchestrated dance on your tongue begins with cold dishes like mkhaleuli—a spinach and walnut salad—cheese and suckling pig, followed by hot dishes involving a miscellany of meats. “The supra has different purposes, as its table was (historically) laid out for celebrations and mournings, with each one having its own rules,” says Irakli Asatiani, brand chef of Silk Hospitality, of which Natella is a part.

Asatiani evokes his people’s history to talk about why the supra has become a cornerstone of their culture, where the feast is emblematic of a nation embracing its best and worst times in a spirit of collective healing and living. “Some scientists think that the meal was created when the country finally lost its independence. Georgian society found a way to express itself at the table. It is, however, a much older phenomenon—a living tradition, which evolved over time. It is the best way to express sympathy and empathy,” he says.

The supra is a medium of culinary storytelling split into three distinct chapters, where following the cold food that whets the palate and eases it into a calm, the big guns are brought out in course two. You name it, and they have it—stewed, roasted, or rolled into dumplings. There’s the beef chashushuli and the veal chakapuli, both meat stews, along with barbecued pork or beef, and fluffy kinkhalis, the typical Georgian dumplings. While the overarching essence of luxurious piquancy in this section of the feast remains largely uniform across the country, regional variations abound. For instance, in the western province of Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti, spicier flavors are common, while Kakheti is big on meat.

Pkhali or minced vegetables.

Unlike its Asian counterparts of momos and gyozas, the kinkhali is larger and designed like 
a gift pouch with a stuffing of pork or beef. It is served with khachapuri on the side—the Georgian cheese bread, which can be taken apart with the slightest prodding of two fingers. It is the non-fussy player on the team, which gladly allows the meaty heavyweights to assume center stage by enhancing their flavors quietly.

Because there is a lot going on with the taste buds, the khachapuri becomes a necessity to ground them, while the several glasses of wine with each course add a sharp twang, fitting in like the missing piece of this gastronomic puzzle.

“The basic rules of drinking wine and saying toasts are very important in the feast. The toast determines the sequence from the beginning, development, and the end of supra,” Asatiani explains. The Georgians toast to the big and small joys and banalities of life, led by a toastmaster or tamara, who steers the story they want to tell with the supra that day. The spirits—which include the homegrown chacha—are often served in traditional bull-horn glasses with silver fittings. “Gaumarjos!”

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18Dec
Hot comfort in the valley- The New Indian Express

Express News Service

It is said that to truly appreciate the beauty of Kashmir, one must visit it during the chillaikalan. Never mind that these six weeks—that begin from December 20 and last till January-end—are also the harshest days of winter. A 40-day period when people all over the valley sport the thick, unisex woolen embroidered tunic called a pheran; each insulated by those ingenious portable heaters called kanger to keep the chill at bay. But chillaikalan—that’s followed by the 20-day-long chillaikhurd and the subsequent, 10-day phase of chillai bacha, which marks the end of the cold season—is also the time when one more winter special comes to the fore.

Known multifariously as harees, hareesa or harissa (not to be confused with the Tunisian spice paste of the same name), it is a pounded meat (lean, de-boned lamb), grain (mostly rice) and aromatic spice-redolent delicacy that’s cooked overnight and served only for breakfast. As early as 4 am, one can find people gathered outside stalls called harissa-wans waiting for the aroma of the delicacy to waft out. It is always served with crisp naan, bits of which are torn apart and used to scoop up morsels of the comfort food into eager mouths. This is best chased with the salted, pink-hued tea called noon chai, which is a bit of an acquired taste.

Food critic and writer, the Srinagar-based Marryam Reshii, says, “During biting cold winters combined with electricity outages, harissa is the bright spot in Kashmir. Traditionally made and sold only in the old city of Srinagar, it is sheep meat on the bone cooked for several hours in an enclosed vessel that is insulated by a clever invention of the harissa-gors as the cooks-cum-sellers are called. Garlic, salt, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves and black pepper are a fraction of the appeal.” Thanks to culinary travellers, the dish has now evolved into an all-year-round delicacy. For instance, Chai Jaai tea room that sits on The Bund along Srinagar’s Residency Road serves a close-to-traditional style of harissa 365 days a year.

Given its heartiness, the dish is only sold in winter to fuel the masses with its unctuous pounded meat and rice parts, which are always in a 1:1 ratio. These are cooked overnight in a copper pot called maath in Kashmiri, which is buried in the earth, with a chamber for firewood below. With times changing, it’s not uncommon for many harissa-wans to use gas-propelled fires these days. “Spices like cinnamon, fennel seeds and the de rigueur cardamom—the flavour of Kashmir—are abundantly coaxed into the porridge-like mix, which is topped with a ladle of hot mustard oil that is set alight before being splashed over the contents of the maath,” explains Jasleen Marwah, a Kashmiri Sikh home chef-turned-restauranteur, who runs Folk in Mumbai. This multi-regional Indian cuisine restaurant is one of the few places in the city where one can try out this winter specialty all year round.

At first bite, it is easy to see how parallels can be drawn, comparing harissa with similar meat porridge-esque dishes like haleem and khichda. Both are popular dishes across the Indian subcontinent and both use lentils—something that doesn’t go into harissa. While haleem is cooked until the meat blends with the lentils, in khichda, chunks of meat remain whole as cubes.

Interestingly, all three have their underpinnings in the Arabian dish known as harees. The first written recipe of harees dates back to the 10th century, when Arab scribe Abu Muhammad al-Muzaffar ibn Sayyar compiled a cookbook called Kitab Al-Tabikh.

Farmer and food curator Afshan Rashid, who runs an organic farm called Baag Manzuk in Pulwama near Srinagar, says that the difference is that instead of rice, as in a harissa, a harees has meat that is cooked with wheat and uses a different selection of spices. “The origins of harissa date back to the time when the Silk Route was in use. This is another vestige of a legacy that Kashmir has inherited via its trade route,” says Rashid.

Agreeing to similarities with haleem, celebrity chef and entrepreneur, the Kolkata-based Sabyasachi Gorai, says, “The consistency of both the dishes is paste-like. Also, the origins for both lie in the Azerbaijan region. What I, however, find fascinating about harissa is that it is mostly cooked by men. In fact, there is a saying in Kashmiri, which means that ‘the dish is ready to be eaten when you grow a stubble’, meaning that it takes one the entire night to cook, and is served only at dawn. The glutinous texture might put off the less-adventurous epicure, but it is what makes this dish a class apart. Once you’ve tasted it, you’ll keep coming back to it.”

Marryam Reshii, Food critic and writer 

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