Key Takeaways

• Find in-progress podcast episodes more easily by saving them first.
• Stop unwanted podcast recommendations by marking all episodes as finished in the show’s settings.
• While there may not be an automatic equalizer, you can improve your podcast audio by manually applying an EQ in Spotify’s playback settings.

While I love Spotify for bringing me all of my audio in one place, there are certain aspects of its podcast functionality that I think could be improved. Here are the podcast-related bones I have to pick with Spotify as well as the best existing solutions I’ve found.

1 Sorting In-Progress Podcast Episodes

Some episodic podcasts have hundreds of standalone episodes, and you may not listen to these episodes linearly. When you have to pause in the middle of listening, it can be convoluted to find that episode again. Searching on a podcast’s show page, Spotify has filters to view All Episodes, Downloaded, or Unplayed, and an option to sort by Newest or Oldest. Personally, I’d love to see an In Progress filter on the show’s page. However, this feature is only accessible when you save episodes.

Here’s how to save episodes and access the In progress filter:

1. Save or add an episode to Your Episodes by tapping the plus sign next to the description.
2. Navigate to Your Library tab > Your Episodes. You’ll see a filter for In progress on this page.
3. Similarly, downloading an episode will add it to Your Episodes. Just tap the down arrow near the episode’s description to move it to Your Episodes.

If sorting in-progress episodes is a priority for you, and you’re an iPhone user, you might also consider
Overcast
, which has an automated In Progress playlist on its home page.

2 Curbing Podcast Recommendations

Spotify will push podcasts you’ve interacted with, even if those interactions are not necessarily positive. If you try a new show and decide to bail after one episode, Spotify doesn’t read that as disinterest or offer an option like Netflix’s Thumbs Up and Thumbs Down ratings. While you can rate a title publicly on Spotify, this feels like overkill when you’re only trying to affect your own algorithm.

In lieu of a personal rating system, here is how to stop Spotify from recommending a podcast you’re not interested in:

1. Go to the show page and open the Settings gear.
2. Under Manage, tap Mark as finished. Select the first bubble to Mark all as finished.

Now, click Done, and you’re good to go.

3 Automatic EQ Settings

Spotify has impressive equalizer settings that can improve your audio depending on what you’re listening to. For example, I use the Spoken Word equalizer when listening to podcasts, particularly in the car, where street noise and wind drown out voices.

The dreamer in me would love to be able to automate those EQ settings, such as with a preference to apply a specific equalizer any time I play a podcast episode. Until that day, you can apply an EQ manually, even if it is deep in your playback settings:

1. Click on your profile icon in the upper left corner of the app.
2. Select Settings and privacy > Playback > Equalizer.
3. Move the slider to the right to turn on your Equalizer, and Also apply to podcasts.
4. Scroll down and tap Spoken Word to apply that equalizer.

These three perceived flaws aside, there is still plenty to love about using Spotify to listen to podcasts. As picky as I might be as a podcast producer and super-consumer, I’ll gladly put up with a few points of irksome UI for the rewards of having a comprehensive listening app and features like being able to listen to episodes offline. Ultimately, everyone will have their own unique preferences, and luckily, there are many free apps for podcasts to choose from.

Key Takeaways

• Google Drive offers 15GB free storage, perfect for collaboration and organization with colleagues, especially if you’re already using Google services.
• pCloud provides easy access and can boost storage to 15GB+ through simple tasks or a one-time purchase, making it a cost-effective option.
• MediaFire is great for sharing files with others and has a generous 10GB free storage, although batch downloading may require the premium service.

Cloud storage is a useful way to access your files from anywhere with an internet connection. If you’re short on money, there are free cloud storage websites on the internet that let you upload files at no extra cost. Let’s explore the best free cloud storage solutions for storing your files online.

If you use Google’s services often, you’ll get a lot of mileage out of Google Drive. Not only does it have a generous amount of space for no additional cost, but it plays well with other Google services. If you’ve used Google Docs in the past, you’re already using Google Drive!

Google Drive is a great way to organize your business and work files. When you use Google’s online office suite, all the files you create are stored in Google Drive for easy access. If you have an Android phone, you can download the Drive app and stay up-to-date while you’re on the move.

Google Drive is the best free cloud storage solution for collaborating with other workmates. You can use Drive to create a folder full of documents and spreadsheets to work on, then share a link to the folder with your colleagues. Anyone with the link can hop in and edit the documents within. As such, Google Drive is a great tool for those working remotely.

Do note that the 15GB space is shared among all of Google’s programs, including Gmail, Docs, and Photos.

2. pCloud (10+GB Free Storage)

pCloud is a simple, easy-to-use entry on this list. On the front page, you enter an email and password, and you’re ready to go. You then have 10GB to play with at no extra cost.

pCloud is generous with its bonus space. At the time of writing, verifying your email with pCloud nets you another 1GB to use, and uploading a file gets you another GB. You can get a total of 5GB for completing simple tasks and then 1GB from referring a friend.

This makes pCloud an easy way to get 15GB+ of storage without paying anything.

There’s a chance you’re looking for free cloud storage services because you dislike the idea of paying a subscription. It’s not great to have all your data stored on one service and then be “forced” to pay monthly to maintain that storage.

pCloud is unique as you can make a one-time purchase to get a permanent boost to your storage. The price is quite high, but if you plan to use online storage for a few years, it’s cheaper in the long run than maintaining a subscription.

The pCloud Crypto service is an additional security layer that’s also offered as a subscription.

From its generous storage space alone, MediaFire is an excellent service for storing data. However, using MediaFire purely as a file storage website doesn’t fully exploit its potential.

MediaFire’s sharing capabilities make it one of the best ways to share files for others to download. Hover over the item you want to share, click the arrow on the right, and click Share. You then get a link you can share for other people to download from.

MediaFire limits uploaded file size to 4GB per file.

Unfortunately, when you try this with a folder of files, MediaFire will prompt you to purchase their premium service to batch download files. Thankfully, you can skirt around this restriction by zipping up the folder you want to share on your desktop and then uploading it.

4. OneDrive (5GB Free Storage)

OneDrive isn’t too generous with its storage space, but it earns points for requiring the least amount of installation and setup than the other entries on this list. For instance, if you have a computer that runs Windows 10 or 11, you’re already fully equipped to use OneDrive.

When you open Explorer in Windows, you should see OneDrive on the left sidebar. Any files dragged into here will automatically upload and sync up with the OneDrive server. You need to have the OneDrive app running for it to sync up, so look for the OneDrive icon in your taskbar. If you don’t see it, click the start button and type “OneDrive” to start it up.

If you don’t use Windows 10, you can still use OneDrive to store your files. You do need to create a Microsoft account before you can use it, but once you do, you can use the website interface to upload and share files.

OneDrive also has a special Shared folder that keeps tabs on which files are being shared and to whom, so you can keep track of who can see your data.

If you’d like to learn more, check out our guide on what OneDrive is.

5. Dropbox (2GB+ Free Storage)

​​​​​​​

One of the older entries on this list, Dropbox, specializes in syncing your desktop files with the cloud. You can use Dropbox as a traditional cloud storage service, but its true power unlocks when you set up a special Dropbox folder on your desktop using the client.

When you drop files into this particular folder, Dropbox will automatically notice the addition and upload it to the cloud. This is also true if it notices a file has changed. As such, you can place a text document into the folder and edit it over time, and Dropbox will automatically update the cloud version of the file every time you save it.

You can also set up a shared folder and invite others to use it. When other people upload or edit files in said folder, Dropbox will update it on your end. If you have the Dropbox client, your friend’s edits will automatically update the folder on your PC.

If you’re disappointed at Dropbox’s 2GB offering, you can complete tasks and refer friends to get more room. Referring Dropbox to a friend gives you 500MB per referral to a maximum of 16GB, and completing tasks gives you 250MB up to around 1.5GB extra space.

If you really end up liking it, check out how you can access Dropbox (and Google Drive) from a Windows drive letter.

Why Not Make Your Own Cloud Server?

If you’re cost-conscious about your cloud storage, you can cut out the middleman and create your own. The upfront costs are high, as you need to purchase a server and set it up at home. However, once you’ve paid up, you have full rein over a considerable amount of storage without paying anything more.

There are plenty of reasons why you should make your own server. The next time you’re nervously watching your free cloud storage space fill up, consider putting down the cash for a more long-term solution.

If you’re looking for a free way to store your data on the cloud, there are plenty of great options—including making your own. While there are no free unlimited cloud storage services on our list, the top choices still give you plenty of room to upload images, documents, and videos.

Key Takeaways

• The Google Pixel 8a is a great mid-range smartphone that offers impressive performance, a snappy user experience, and a capable camera system. It runs on the same Tensor G3 chipset as the Pixel 8 and 8 Pro, with 8GB RAM, which ensures smooth and responsive performance. The camera is particularly impressive, producing bright, saturated, and crisp images.
• The Pixel 8a ships with Android 14, which is quick and responsive, and offers seven years of support for security updates and Android updates. The AI features, such as Circle to Search and Gemini AI, add value to the user experience.
• However, the Pixel 8a does have some downsides. The battery charging is slow, and the phone lacks Qi2 wireless charging capabilities. The design also has a budget-phone look, especially on the more colorful models.

Google’s Pixel lineup has long been one of the best ranges of Android phones available. While the top models aren’t cheap, the line is more affordable than many other brands. The Google Pixel 8a, in particular, has caught up to the Pixel 8 this year, but while it may be the better purchase at full price, it’s no easy decision.

Price and Availability

The Google Pixel 8a retails for $499 and is available directly from Google or other retailers. There are four different finish options: Aloe, Bay, Obsidian, and Porcelain. Oddly enough, not everything is the same across color options.

The Pixel 8a’s base model has 128GB of onboard storage. If you want 256GB, you must buy the phone in Obsidian, which costs $559 retail. Since the phone’s launch in May 2024, the Aloe, Bay, and Porcelain models are still only available with 128GB of storage.

It’s worth mentioning that if you’re put off by the price, it may be worth waiting a while. I’ll touch on this later in the review, but both the Pixel 8—the 8a’s older, slightly higher-spec’d sibling—and the Pixel 7a are frequently on sale. I’m not finding many deals at the time of this writing, but they’re likely just around the corner.

Familiar Design and a Good Feel

I reviewed the Google Pixel 8 in 2023, and when I pulled it out of the box, it was a fairly familiar sight. It doesn’t look exactly the same, mainly thanks to the different color choices and the size of the bezels around the screen. That said, I was immediately aware that I was looking at a phone from the same series.

The brighter colors that manufacturers tend to favor for more affordable phones over their flagship models somewhat give away the Pixel 8a’s mid-range nature. The use of plastic in the build is also a culprit, but only in that the Pixel 8a doesn’t have the same feeling of heft as the Pixel 8.

On the other hand, the plastic on the back of the phone has a matte texture. This helps it match the metal frame and camera bar better, but it also has a nice feel. You likely won’t think you’re holding the latest flagship phone, but it certainly doesn’t feel like a budget phone.

Perhaps due to the plastic, the Pixel 8a isn’t quite as tough as its siblings. While the Pixel 8 and Pixel 8 Pro offer IP68 dust and water resistance, the Pixel 8a is only rated IP67. This means less protection against water specifically, so be aware it’s not as water-resistant as the other models.

Sharp Display With Smooth Motion

Like the 7a, the Pixel 8a has a 6.1-inch display, but this time around, the screen has seen some much-needed upgrades. The phone uses a new display, which features the same 1080 x 2400 resolution but brings 120Hz variable refresh rate support. This provides extra smoothness to motion, which you’ll notice more than any resolution increase if you’re upgrading from an older phone.

This new screen is also brighter than that found on the 7a, with a max average brightness of 1400 nits and a peak of 2000 nits. This is more than enough for indoor use but only seems to be about the bare minimum for using the phone outdoors on a sunny day. While taking photos, I occasionally had trouble seeing what I was capturing.

Much of this is due less to brightness and more to the limited viewing angles, as the Pixel 8 had the same brightness, and I had no issues. The Pixel 8a’s screen seemed more reflective, as even indoors, I noticed quite a bit of glare reflecting off the screen.

I didn’t notice this on the Google Pixel 8, and this could be because that phone uses Corning Gorilla Glass Victus, while the 8a uses Gorilla Glass 3.

Performance On Par With Other Pixels

The Pixel 8a is powered by the same Tensor G3 chipset that powers the other two models in its range, and like the Pixel 8, it features 8GB RAM. This should mean roughly equivalent performance. The phone certainly never felt slow during my testing.

Turning to 3DMark for testing, the phone performed respectably on the Wild Life benchmark, with an average score of 8,500 over multiple runs. The Wild Life Extreme test wasn’t as kind, with an average score of just 2,370 (the Samsung Galaxy S24+ scored 4,730 for comparison’s sake), but this isn’t a flagship.

When just using the phone, the performance feels just as snappy as the Pixel 8, and for good reason, considering the hardware. While it may not be a gaming powerhouse, it handled the few games I threw at it without a problem.

That said, like the Pixel 8, I did notice that the 8a would warm up after playing a game like Real Racing 3. It never felt hot enough that it was disconcerting, but I could definitely tell the phone was working. Fortunately, as with the Pixel 8, I never noticed any thermal throttling during my testing.

Great Software That Will (Hopefully) Age Gracefully

Google’s Pixel phones provide the most bloat-free, stock Android experience you’ll find straight out of the box, which is a selling point for many. I found Android 14, which the Pixel 8a ships with, quick and responsive, with subtle animations that make it a joy to use. The keyboard also deserves high marks.

You aren’t stuck with Android 14 either, as in a move similar to Samsung with its flagships, the Pixel 8a offers seven years of support. That includes security updates and Android updates, though it’s likely that the Pixel 8a may not support every new feature that comes to future Android versions.

Of course, the Android version isn’t the star of the software show with the Pixel 8 lineup; it’s the AI features. Circle to Search is probably the most advertised, and it’s impressive how well it works. That said, I never found myself reaching for it unprompted, but instead, I tried it out just for testing purposes.

My time with the Google Pixel 8a came a short while after its release, but that ended up being a good thing, as I was able to try out some of the new Gemini AI features. Initially only available on the Pixel 8 Pro, these features are now coming to the entire line. How useful they are to you at the moment likely depends on how much you currently use large language models (LLMs) like ChatGPT or Google Gemini outside your phone.

I’m not much of an LLM user currently, so most of my testing was just that. Even so, moving more AI operations off of Google servers and onto the Tensor G3 directly benefits almost anyone, regardless of how consistent your data connection may be. While it’s still early days for these features, there’s promise, and it seems there is plenty more to come.

Google could have limited AI features on the Pixel 8 and 8a to position the Pixel 8 Pro as more of a premium device. While that was originally the plan, the company changed course, and that is for the better. That also means that as more AI features come to the other Pixel 8 series phones, you can expect to see them in the 8a.

Are You Sure This Camera Is From a Mid-Range Phone?

The camera was one aspect of the Google Pixel 8 that impressed me, so I wanted to see if the Pixel 8a could hold its own. Looking at the specs on paper, the Pixel 8a looks impressive enough. Like the Pixel 8, it has a dual rear camera system with wide and ultrawide lenses.

On paper, it even looks like the Pixel 8a may have some better specs, with a 64MP main sensor to the 50MP option in the Pixel 8. That said, the Pixel 8a’s pixel width isn’t as large, so those extra megapixels aren’t doing you much good. The ultrawide and selfie cameras are 13MP, albeit with different focal lengths.

While the camera hardware may not be the same as that in the Pixel 8, the performance is very similar. After spending time with the Pixel 8a, I’m as impressed with this camera as I was with the camera on the Pixel 8. While the more expensive phone’s camera may capture some extra detail, the 8a remains impressive.

The colors are bright and saturated without being overly so—something that seems easy to encounter in smartphone cameras. As long as you’re shooting without zoom of any kind, images are sharp and crisp. Using the built-in zoom can add anywhere from subtle blurring to noticeable pixelation and is best left untouched.

It seems like Google has put plenty of work into making the camera easy to use without thinking. Especially compared to other phones in its price range, it’s easy to quickly pull the phone out of your pocket and take a quick shot with confidence that it will look good later on.

Google’s AI photo tools have already debuted in other Pixel phones, but seeing them all here is still nice. Magic Eraser and Magic Editor may not always be necessary, but they’re great to have when you need them, as is the Unblur tool.

Good Battery Life, but Charging Is a Letdown

While the battery in the Pixel 8a is technically smaller than that in the Pixel 8, it’s not by a large margin. The Pixel 8a is equipped with a 4,492mAh battery, while the Pixel 8 boasts an ever-so-slightly larger 4,575mAh battery. Given the other hardware similarities, you’d expect the two phones to have largely similar battery life.

Google claims the same “24+ hour battery life” as the other two phones in this range. In my testing, the battery life of the Pixel 8a lined up pretty closely with my experience from testing the Pixel 8. Even when running benchmarks and pushing the hardware, I didn’t notice a sharp decline in battery life.

The differences between the Pixel 8a and the Pixel 8 are immediately apparent when it comes to charging. The Pixel 8a doesn’t charge nearly as quickly, and compared to other modern phones, wired charging feels needlessly slow.

Battery Share, the feature that lets you use your phone as a wireless charger for other devices, is also missing here. That isn’t nearly as big a deal as the lack of Qi2 wireless charging. Granted, this is also missing on the Pixel 8, but it still feels like a missed opportunity.

A Great Phone With Great Competition

If you compare the Pixel 8a to other phones, starting with the Pixel 8 only makes sense. While, yes, the pricier phone does have a few more features, in many cases, they aren’t differentiating enough to make the Pixel 8 worth recommending over the 8a—at least, not when it comes to features alone.

While the retail price of the Pixel 8 is higher than the Pixel 8a, starting at $699, that’s only part of the story. As with many Google phones, the company has sold the Pixel 8 at a significant discount on multiple occasions. If you can buy the Pixel 8 for $549, the Pixel 8a doesn’t look as impressive by comparison.

Samsung’s Galaxy S23 FE costs slightly more, but could be worthwhile if you’re a bigger fan of that company’s software and designs. When the S23 FE is on sale, you can find it for just a little more than the retail price of the Pixel 8a.

Should You Buy the Google Pixel 8a?

Looking at the Google Pixel 8a by itself, it’s a great phone. The performance is snappy, battery life is plentiful, and the camera takes photos that you’ll rarely, if ever, find yourself disappointed with. The only problem with the Pixel 8a isn’t even competing with the Pixel 8—it’s competing with the Pixel 8’s price when it’s on sale, which is fairly often.

We’ve already discussed prices and the competition, so let’s examine the areas where the Pixel 8a might let you down. While the battery life is solid, it charges slowly. It also looks like a budget phone, though this is somewhat more the case with the more colorful models. This doesn’t matter to everyone, but it may matter to you.

The bottom line is that the Google Pixel 8a is a great phone for the asking price, but it will be even better if you get a deal on it. Just remember to keep the Pixel 8 in the back of your mind while you’re searching.

It’s always a good idea to secure your Android phone with a passcode, but what if you forget it? Well, there’s no need to panic, as there are several things you can do to regain access to your phone.

1. Unlock With Smart Lock

Smart Lock (also labeled Extend Unlock on Samsung phones) is an Android feature that keeps your phone unlocked when you’re near a trusted location or connected to a trusted Bluetooth device, like your fitness tracker or car.

However, this only works if you’ve previously set up Smart Lock on your phone. You’ll find it under Settings > Security > Smart Lock on most phones or Settings > Lock Screen and AOD > Extend Lock on Samsung devices.

Smart Lock on Android gives you the following options for unlocking the phone without a password:

• On-body detection: The phone senses that you’re carrying it and automatically stays unlocked when it’s in your hand or pocket.
• Trusted places: Uses your location to unlock your phone when you’re near your selected address.
• Trusted devices: Keeps your device unlocked when connected to a trusted Bluetooth device, like your fitness tracker or car.

If you’ve previously set up one or more Smart Lock options before forgetting your password, you can use them to regain access to your phone. This will allow you to back up any important data on your Android device.

It’s important to note that you can’t change Smart Lock settings without entering your current PIN. Also, this feature won’t unlock the device after a restart.

2. Use SmartThings Find on Samsung Devices

Have a Samsung device? If so, you don’t have to be concerned about forgetting your device’s screen lock code, as Samsung offers a simple way to reset the lock screen PIN.

The company offers a feature called SmartThings Find for all its phones, allowing you to remotely manage your device if it’s lost. To use this feature, you must be signed in with your Samsung account on your phone and have a Wi-Fi or mobile data connection.

To reset your phone’s passcode through SmartThings Find, follow these steps:

1. On your computer, navigate to Samsung’s SmartThings Find website.
2. Sign in with your Samsung account.
3. Select your phone and click the Unlock option.
4. Click the Unlock button and enter your account password to verify your identity.

Wait a few seconds, and your current PIN or password will be deleted. You can then set up a new lock screen security method from scratch.

3. Use the Forgot Password Prompt

Some phone manufacturers, such as Realme, make it easy to regain access to your device if you forget the PIN. When you enter an incorrect password multiple times, some phones may display a Forgot Password or Forgot PIN option on the lock screen. Tapping this option will guide you through a series of steps to verify your identity and reset the lock screen passcode.

The verification process may involve entering the email address associated with your device or answering security questions you set up in the device settings. Once verified, you’ll receive on-screen instructions on how to set a new passcode for your device.

4. Delete the PIN File Using ADB

Android generates a KEY file to store user credentials, such as fingerprints, patterns, or other passwords. This file allows the device to unlock when you enter the correct password and deny access when you input the wrong one. Using the Android Debug Bridge (ADB) tool, you can access this file through your computer and delete it.

However, this method will only work if:

• USB debugging is enabled on your phone. If you’ve never dived into the Developer Options menu, it’s safe to assume you haven’t enabled it.
• You’ve allowed your computer to connect to your phone via ADB. We have a guide on using ADB if you’re not familiar.
• Your phone is not encrypted. With Android 6.0 Marshmallow, Google requires all Android phones to ship encrypted. Thus, this won’t work for newer devices.

This method only works for older Android versions. If you receive an error saying ”
rm: /data/system/gesture.key: No such file or directory
“, it means you can’t bypass the lock screen this way.

This method isn’t guaranteed to work, and if you’re not careful, it could damage your phone. So, make sure you follow the steps carefully.

1. Connect your phone to your computer via a USB cable.
2. Open a Command Prompt or Terminal window to your ADB installation directory.
3. Type in adb shell rm /data/system/gesture.key and press Enter.
4. Reboot your phone. Once you do, the secure lock screen should be gone.
5. This is temporary, so reset your PIN or pattern lock before rebooting.

5. Perform a Factory Reset

If you’re still locked out of your Android phone, your last option is to perform a factory reset. This will erase all the data on your phone, returning it to its original state.

Since you’re locked out, you won’t be able to reset it through the Settings app. Instead, you will need to visit Google’s Find My Device website and log into your account. After that, select your phone and click Factory reset device from the left sidebar.

If you can’t use this method, you can try factory resetting it via Recovery Mode. Here’s how:

1. Power your device off.
2. After the screen goes completely black, press and hold the volume down and power buttons simultaneously to enter Recovery Mode.
3. Use the volume buttons to go to the Wipe data/Factory Reset option. Press the power button to select it.
4. Use the volume buttons to highlight the Factory data reset option, and press the power button to select it.

Once the device reboots, you’ll need to set up your Android phone again. You’ll be prompted to log back into your Google account, which will restore any backed-up data.

One of the above methods should help you regain access to your Android phone, but it’s best to take precautions to avoid going through this process again.

If you frequently forget your passcode, consider keeping a physical copy of it in a secure place, like a safe or a password manager. Also, make sure you’re signed in with your Google account (and Samsung account, if applicable) and have enabled Smart Lock to unlock your phone with Wi-Fi.

Key Takeaways

• The NVIDIA Control Panel may go missing if NVIDIA services are disabled on your system, so ensure they are configured to run automatically.
• Updating or reinstalling the NVIDIA graphics driver is an effective way to restore the missing NVIDIA Control Panel.
• Consider accessing the NVIDIA Control Panel via File Explorer or reinstalling the app on your PC if nothing works.

The NVIDIA Control Panel is essential for fine-tuning graphics settings, optimizing game performance, and adjusting display configurations. However, if you can’t find it on your Windows PC all of a sudden, here are some tips that will help you restore this useful utility.

1. Check and Enable NVIDIA Services

The missing NVIDIA Control Panel issue can arise if certain NVIDIA services are disabled. Hence, the first thing you should do is make sure all NVIDIA services are configured to run automatically on your system. Here’s how to do that:

1. Click the search icon on the taskbar, type services in the text box, and hit Enter.
2. Scroll down to locate NVIDIA services on the list. Double-click any NVIDIA service to open its properties.
3. Click the Startup type dropdown menu to select the Automatic option.
4. Hit Apply followed by OK.
5. Similarly, change the startup type for all the NVIDIA services to Automatic.

Restart your PC after making the above changes and see if you can find the NVIDIA Control Panel again.

2. Update the NVIDIA Graphics Card Driver

As the NVIDIA Control Panel is closely linked to its graphics card, it can go missing due to an outdated or incompatible NVIDIA driver. To fix this, you can try updating the NVIDIA graphics driver using these steps:

1. Press Win + R to open the Run dialog box.
2. Type dxdiag in the box and hit Enter.
3. Go to the Display tab and note down the graphics card details.

   

4. Open the NVIDIA driver download page in a browser.
5. Use the dropdown menus to locate the latest driver for your hardware and download it.
6. Run the downloaded installer file to update the graphics driver.

After updating the drivers, check if you’re still facing this issue.

3. Reinstall the NVIDIA Graphics Card Driver

If updating the NVIDIA graphics driver didn’t help, or if the latest driver is already installed, try reinstalling the driver instead. To do so, follow these steps:

1. Right-click on the Start icon and select Device Manager from the list.
2. Double-click the Display adapters category to expand it.
3. Right-click your NVIDIA graphics driver and select Uninstall device.
4. Tick the Attempt to remove the driver for this device checkbox.
5. Click Uninstall to confirm.

Restart your PC after completing the above steps. Then, download and install the latest NVIDIA driver for your graphics card, as outlined in the previous section.

4. Access the NVIDIA Control Panel via File Explorer

If you can’t find the NVIDIA Control Panel through the search menu, you can try opening it using File Explorer. The specific file to look for is “nvcplui.exe.” Here are the folder paths you’ll need to check for the “nvcplui.exe” file:

• C:Program FilesNVIDIA CorporationControl Panel Client
• C:Program FilesWindowsAppsNVIDIACorp.NVIDIAControlPanel_8.1.962.0_x64__56jybvy8sckqj

If you can’t find the Control Panel Client folder, then “nvcplui.exe” is probably within the WindowsApps folder path specified above. However, since the WindowsApps folder is not readily accessible, you’ll first need to take ownership of that folder. If you need help with that, check our guide on taking ownership of files and folders on Windows.

If you find the “nvcplui.exe” file in File Explorer, right-click it and select Run as administrator to open the NVIDIA Control Panel. Then, click Desktop in the app’s menu bar and select the Add Desktop Context Menu and Show Notification Tray Icon options to restore the app on the system tray and desktop context menu.

5. Copy the “NVDisplay.Container” File Into the Startup Folder

Adding the “NVDisplay.Container” file, which is associated with the NVIDIA Display Container LS service, to the Windows Startup folder can also help fix a missing NVIDIA Control Panel. Here’s how you can go about it.

1. Open the Services app using Windows Search.
2. Find and double-click the NVIDIA Display Container LS service to open its properties.
3. Copy the file path mentioned in the “Path to the executable” field.
4. Press Win + E to open File Explorer, enter the copied path in the address bar at the top and hit Enter.
5. Right-click the Display.NvContainer file and select Copy.
6. Press Win + R to open the Run dialog box, then type shell:startup and hit Enter.
7. Paste the copied Display.NvContainer file in the Startup folder and restart your PC.

6. Reinstall the NVIDIA Control Panel

If nothing else works, you can try uninstalling and reinstalling the NVIDIA Control Panel on your PC. Here’s how to do it.

1. Press Win + S to open the search menu.
2. Type NVIDIA Control Panel in the search box and click the Uninstall option on your right,
3. Select Uninstall again to confirm.
4. Head to NVIDIA Control Panel’s Microsoft Store page to download and install it.

Now, you should be able to find and use the NVIDIA Control Panel on your PC as usual.

At least one of the many tips we listed above should help you restore the missing NVIDIA Control Panel on your Windows 10 or 11 PC. Once restored, you can access and adjust your graphics settings and monitor configurations as desired.

Key Takeaways

• You can use several habit-tracking apps to monitor habits you want to build and quit.
• Examples of apps to try include Habitica and Davetech’s Habit Tracker app.
• Focus on habit trackers that are easy to use to reduce daily friction.

When I started my self-improvement journey in 2019, a handful of apps made it easier to track habits like going to the gym. They also helped keep me accountable. If you’re looking to make small, regular tweaks in your day-to-day life, these apps will help.

1 Habitica: Best for Gamification

One of the best ways to keep up with a habit is to realize that life is like a video game that you play for real. And since Habitica gamifies the habit-tracking experience, it’s one of the best apps to use to make lasting changes.

Habitica lets you set up a positive habit tracker (like walking for 10,000 steps per day) or a negative one (like qutting the afternoon coffee). You can change the category via tags and set a difficulty level.

Using Habitica, you can reset the counter on any of your habits. You can also add notes that you think will be useful to record. At the top of the home screen, you’ll see bars for health and experience—along with your gaming level. The level progresses as you achieve objectives.

Once you’ve built up enough points, you can buy different things for your avatar. It’s one of many wellness apps that turn self-care into a game.

Download: Habitica for iOS | Android (Free, in-app purchases available)

Habitica Pricing

You can use Habitica for free, but the app also has optional subscriptions. If you want to support the project, pricing is as follows:

2 Super Habit: Best for iOS Users

If you’re looking for a less gamified version of Habitica, I recommend checking out this habit tracker instead. You can enter your habit name and choose how many days per week you’d like to complete it. For example, I aim to work out four times per week (Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday).

When using this habit tracker, you can also pick a start date. You can also choose how many reminders you want to see and decide on which day you want your calendar week to begin.

For additional customization, you can customize the color of your habit tracker. To get a full overview of your history, you can see your progress for the current month and year. Most in-app features are free, but you can upgrade to a paid subscription or get a lifetime purchase for unlimited habits.

Download: Super Habit for iOS (Free, in-app purchases available)

3 Habit Tracker: Best for User-Friendliness

Davetech’s Habit Tracker app has a simplified user interface with several templates, such as breathwork, reading books, eating vegetables, and reviewing your day. Within each of these, you can choose specific goal periods and whether it’s one you want to build or quit.

Habit Tracker lets you change the icon for each of your habits, allowing you to navigate them more easily. Moreover, you can customize the chart type and choose whether it’s relevant for the morning, afternoon, or evening.

Some of the “quit” habit templates available include drinking less alcohol, complaining less, and not spending as much time on video games. You can create your own habits if you don’t want to use any of the templates.

Habit Tracker allows you to look at the status of your habits based on whether you met them or not. You can also track how you feel, which can help you find patterns when you keep up with or skip your habits.

Download: Habit Tracker for iOS (Free, in-app purchases available)

Habit Tracker Pricing

Most features are free, but you can upgrade to a subscription or become a lifetime member. Pricing is as follows:

4 Habitify: Best for Full-Day Visualization

Habitify lets you pick from five starter habits, including drinking water and practicing yoga. You can also add your own later. The app lets you choose how often you want to repeat these habits, and you can set daily goals for how long you’d like them to last.

The Habitify app helps you keep everything organized by creating different areas. So, if you’re looking to keep your family organized or simply track what’s going on in your life, it’s a great choice. For each area, you can adjust the name and also pick a different color.

If you want to push yourself, you’ll find several challenges to participate in. These are split on a daily and monthly basis, and you’ll also find several subcategories to explore for more specific challenges.

Habitify has comprehensive statistics to give you an overview of your habits, and you can see which habits you finished and missed—along with those that you partially completed.

Download: Habitify for iOS | Android (Free, in-app purchases available)

Habitify Pricing

Habitify has monthly, annual, and lifetime subscription packages. Monthly costs $5.99/mo, but you can only get this on the website.

Pricing for the other two is as follows:

5 Streaks: The Best Paid Habit Tracker

You have to pay $5.99 for the Streaks app, but you get lifetime access, and it’s quite comprehensive. So, if you want to take your habit-tracking more seriously, it might be worth considering.

Streaks lets you track several habits, such as walking your dog and decreasing your daily sugar intake. You’ll also find options for reading, learning a language, tidying the house, and more. Streaks integrates with the Health app, meaning that you can track various wellness-related aspects like upping or lowering your calorie intake.

To confirm that you’ve completed your habit for today, you simply have to tap and hold on to the icon. You’ll see all of your habits in the same place on the home screen.

Download: Streaks for iOS | Android ($5.99)

6 Way of Life: Best for Journaling About Your Habits

Way of Life is a simple habit-tracker that lets you choose whether you completed a habit by simply tapping the tick icon. You can also add notes for each habit you want to track, and it’s possible to journal within the app as well. So, you may want to consider it if you’re also looking for a micro-journaling app.

The Way of Life app lets you look at trends over extended periods via a bar graph or pie chart, meaning that you can tell if you’re on the right path. You can also set up daily reminders to ensure that you complete your habit each day.

When using Way of Life, you can activate password protection if you don’t want others to see what you’re doing.

Download: Way of Life for iOS | Android (Free, in-app purchases available)

Way of Life Pricing

Way of Life is free to use, but you can upgrade to a premium subscription or get lifetime access. Monthly pricing starts at $4.99/mo, and you can get the lifetime version for $29.99.

When choosing a habit tracker, you should pick something that’s easy to use and focus on core features to begin with. If you need to, you can then get something with more complex bells and whistles.

Key Takeaways

• Abstract photography is a genre focused on anything removed from reality, straddling the line between photography and art.
• To shoot abstract photos, look for opportunities that either reveal themselves organically or are engineered by you.
• To get the best results, experiment with angles, lighting, and editing to create truly compelling abstract photos.

Smartphone cameras are capable of shooting across all photographic genres these days, and that includes abstract photography. Once you grasp what abstract photography is, learn how to shoot abstract photos, and edit your existing shots to turn them into abstract photos, you’ll have a new genre to explore.

What Is Abstract Photography Anyway?

Abstract photography is, in a nutshell, any photos that are removed from reality in some way. They’re photos that aren’t immediately recognizable as belonging to the physical world we inhabit. Abstract photographers use light, textures, perspective, movement, extreme close-ups, and more to create photos that are both satisfying and otherworldly.

All photography can be art (and it is possible to get your photos displayed in an art gallery), but abstract photography straddles the line between photography and art like no other genre. It’s for this reason—the feeling that this is too highbrow for ordinary folk—that many people don’t even venture into trying it, but also why more people should.

The best abstract photos in the world can be extremely compelling to look at, and contain meaning ascribed by the artist/photographer. However, there’s no pressure to treat them as art if you don’t want to.

Abstract photography is a fascinating genre of photography that, when done right, should be able to scratch anyone’s creative itch. However, it can feel rather overwhelming at first, so, as with so many creative ventures, the trick is to just give it a try and see what happens. We’re here to help with some guidance on how to get started shooting and editing abstract photos on your smartphone.

What to Look for When Shooting Abstract Photos

If there’s one word that sums up what you need to look for when shooting abstract photos, it’s “opportunities”. Photographers are (or should be) constantly looking around for photo opportunities. And abstract photography is no different from any other genre in that regard. You should always be on the lookout for interesting shapes, patterns, textures, reflections, light sources, and angles.

However, unlike other genres of photography, you need to have abstract photography in mind when looking for these opportunities. You can also either take advantage of opportunities that reveal themselves organically, or engineer your own opportunities by utilizing different objects, angles, and light sources around you.

Organic opportunities are those you spot and can shoot without changing anything. The bark of a tree, when shot in a certain light, will cease to look like the bark of a tree. A textured material that, when shot close up, reveals its fibers and creates something that, without context, looks otherworldly. This picture is of a tree, but could equally be a lizard’s eye.

Engineered opportunities are those that need your input to exist. This can mean anything from shining a light source on an object to change the way it looks, to arranging a series of objects in a certain way to get the look you’re after. As long as the results are abstract to the viewer, it doesn’t matter how the photo was set up. This picture is of the inside of a washing machine, with a blue object added to provide a splash of color.

How to Shoot Great Abstract Photos on Your Phone

There’s no real difference between shooting abstract photos on your smartphone and shooting them on other equipment. The one exception is when you’re using extreme close-ups to create abstract images. While many smartphones have decent zooms on them, they quickly lose focus compared to a dedicated DSLR with a macro lens attached.

However, this doesn’t need to be a handicap. You can, if you want to, purchase a clip-on macro lens for your smartphone. These differ in price and quality, but if you can find a decent one, it will enable you to get closer to a subject without your smartphone’s camera losing focus. And good macro photography can form the basis for great abstract photography.

It isn’t the only way to capture beautiful abstract photos that will fasciate viewers though. Experiment with angles, different light conditions, and objects that wouldn’t normally make good subjects to photograph. When shooting abstract photography, you are the architect, bending and shaping the world around you to find otherworldly qualities.

I start by pointing my camera at something I think has the potential to be morphed into something abstract. If it doesn’t, I move on, but if it does, I’ll zoom in on the most interesting part, change the angle to subvert expectations, or turn the flash on (even in bright conditions) to make something ordinary look extraordinary.

Experimentation is the key.

In writing this article, I shot and edited over 20 abstract photos; some of which I have uploaded. Some turned out better than expected, while others just didn’t work at all. Some were perfect as shot, while others needed heavy editing before they lost touch with the natural world. And if anything, editing is the most important part of the process.

How to Edit Your Photos to Make Them More Abstract

Editing is absolutely crucial in creating satisfying and memorable abstract photos. To the point that it would be rare to leave a smartphone shot as it is without at least touching it up in post slightly to create the abstract effect you’re looking for. There are certain edits I apply to all photos, but you have to delve deeper to create compelling abstract photos.

Thanks to editing, any photo you have ever shot on your smartphone could be turned into an abstract photograph. By cropping a photo down, rotating it, adding a filter, and changing various other elements, you can turn the ordinary into an abstract work of art. And once you get a taste of it, I guarantee you’ll be hooked.

Just like shooting, editing a photo to make it more abstract requires experimentation. Even if you have a clear end result in mind, once you start editing, you may find yourself heading in a different direction. Let your creativity take charge, and edit the photo in whatever way feels right. That way, the results may even surprise you.

Start by cropping the image down to the exact part you want in the frame, even if this means focusing on a tiny part of a larger photo. Then try rotating the image, and adding a filter. Once those initial edits are in place, you can adjust individual specific elements such as the contrast, shadows, warmth, tint, and sharpness to create the exact effect you’re looking for.

The image above is actually my hand holding a drink, with the TV in the background, and a purple light illuminating the room. Now that I’ve pointed out what it is, you can probably see it (especially if you tilt your head to the left). But thanks to some extreme editing, the individual elements have ceased to make sense without context.

I personally recommend Google Photos or Snapseed (Android and iOS) for editing smartphone photos, as both boast an array of tools that can be used to make a photo abstract. And, unlike conventional photography, it’s virtually impossible to over-edit an abstract photo, as the more extreme edits you make, the less in touch with reality it becomes.

To sum up, abstract photography can feel too arty and even pretentious for ordinary people to get into. But it really isn’t. Instead, it’s a compelling way to explore your creativity, and one that you’ll probably enjoy more than you think. Look for opportunities to shoot abstract photos, and then spend some time editing them. And if you’re not happy with the results, there is an endless array of objects and textures to try working with.

Roku streaming devices offer a great way to bring the world of streaming entertainment into your living room. But just like any electronics, your Roku may occasionally suffer from issues. Here are some troubleshooting tips to help when your Roku isn’t working.

1 General Fixes

Before we examine specific issues, here are some general fixes for your Roku.

Update Your Roku

Just like with most electronics, it’s always good to keep any Roku device up-to-date with the most recent software. That can help take care of some issues. Any Roku is designed to update its software automatically, but you can also manually check for an update:

1. Press the Home icon on your Roku remote.
2. Select Settings > System.
3. Choose Software update and then Check Now to check for an update manually.

If an update is available, it will automatically download and install.

Restart a Roku

A simpler option when troubleshooting a Roku is to restart the device. The easiest way to do that is to remove the power cord for 60 seconds and then plug it back into the device, but you can also restart the device without unplugging it.

To do that, once again, press the Home button on the remote. Choose Settings > System. Next, select Settings and then System Restart.

Factory Reset a Roku

A more drastic action is a factory reset. That will reset the device, erase all of your presets, unlink your device from your Roku account, and reset all the settings into an initial setup mode.

1. Press the Home icon on the Roku remote.
2. Choose Settings > System > Advance system settings.
3. Select Factory reset.

Now, follow the on-screen instructions.

2 No Audio Output

If you’re not hearing audio from your Roku, there are a few steps to try. If the streaming device is connected directly to your TV, make sure that all the cables are secure on both the Roku and the TV. Next, try the cable at a different input on your TV. You can also try replacing the cable itself.

If the Roku is connected to a soundbar or other sound system, check all the cable connections and confirm the system is set to the correct input for the Roku. Then, try a different input to determine if the problem is the Roku or your audio equipment. Replacing the cables with new versions is also another option.

With continuing issues, try this:

1. Press the Home icon on the Roku remote.
2. Choose Settings > Audio > Digital output format.
3. Select Stereo.

3 Remote Control Won’t Work

The Roku remote control is the heart of the streaming device. With a single tap, you can quickly access everything you need. There are a few different fixes to try if your Roku remote isn’t working.

One of the most common issues is that the remote becomes unpaired from the Roku itself. To re-pair the remote, unplug the Roku box from the power supply and wait 60 seconds. Wait until the Home page loads and find the pairing button on your remote. Hold down the pairing button for at least five seconds until the Roku remote starts blinking.

4 Wi-Fi Issues

If you have wireless connection issues, you have a few options. First, try restarting your Roku device, modem, and router to see if that helps.

If the problems continue, head to Settings > Network > About to see the most recent connection check done by the Roku device. Take a look at both the Signal strength and Internet download speed numbers. If those are low, you might consider moving your router closer to the Roku device or purchasing a wireless mesh networking system to improve the connection.

5 Audio and Video Are Out of Sync

It’s obvious and annoying when audio and video are out of sync on your Roku. First, restart your TV, Roku, and other audio equipment. Next, you can go to Settings > Audio > Audio Mode. If it’s set to Auto, try switching to Stereo.

6 Low Power Warning

Many smaller Roku devices can be plugged directly into a free USB port on your TV and receive enough power to operate. That helps you save space, especially if you have a wall-mounted TV without worrying about finding a free electrical outlet. However, an older TV might not provide enough power from the USB port to use the Roku.

If the Roku doesn’t have enough power to start, the status light on the device will slowly flash red. You might also see an error message that says insufficient power.

To fix the Roku Low Power warning, try switching out your USB cable with a new option. Next, try plugging the Roku into another USB port on your TV to see if it will provide more power. If neither of those fixes works, you’ll need to power the Roku from an electrical outlet.

7 Roku App Doesn’t Work

The Roku app for iOS or Android is a great companion for the streaming device. It can act as an additional remote control, cast media files to your television, and launch channels on your Roku device, and more.

If the app isn’t working with your streaming device, there are a few things to try. First, restart the Roku and your smartphone or tablet. Then, make sure that both your Roku and smartphone use the same Wi-Fi network. Next, make sure that Wi-Fi access is enabled on your Roku by going to Settings > Systems > Advanced system settings. Then select Control by mobile apps > Network access. Make sure it is set to Default.

8 External USB Drive Not Recognized

Some Roku devices have an additional USB port to connect an external USB drive. This allows you to play photos, audio, and video stored on the drive, as well as pause live television.

If you’re having issues accessing content on the drive, there is likely an issue with low power or how the drive is formatted. Make sure that the drive uses an external power adapter if provided. If you don’t have one, try using a powered USB hub.

To be used on a Roku, the drive needs to be formatted in FAT16, FAT32, NTFS, Ext2, Ext3, exFAT, and HFS+.

With just a little work, you can easily troubleshoot most issues with your Roku device and get back to streaming all the content you can imagine.

Key Takeaways

• Manifest V3 will remove Web Request API, limiting blocking functionality for extensions.
• Google aims to improve extension security despite potential disadvantages for users.
• Check your Chrome extensions for affected items. Alternatively, switch to Firefox, which still supports Web Request API.

Google is officially transitioning to Manifest V3, the new Chrome extension specification. The latest version brings new features and, unfortunately, some limitations that will kill some of your favorite browser extensions when it starts rolling out in 2025.

Why Google Is Set to Kill Your Favorite Extensions

In Manifest V2, extensions relied on an API feature dubbed Web Request to monitor traffic while visiting websites, allowing them to block or modify select requests in flight. Using the Web Request API, extensions could, for example, block websites from making requests to certain domains, like those belonging to advertisers, ultimately blocking ads and trackers.

However, malicious actors could also abuse the Web Request to create shady Chrome extensions. Google has long had concerns about malicious actors abusing the Web Request API. That’s why, in Manifest V3, Google moved the blocking functionality to a new API called Declarative Net Request and restricted some previous functionality.

For instance, Google has removed support for remotely hosted code, meaning extensions can only execute scripts included within the package. This gives the company all the power to decide what extensions can and can’t do as they manually review packages before publishing them on the Chrome Web Store. Manifest V3 also limits the number of filtering rules an extension can have, which could hinder the effectiveness of blocking extensions.

According to Google, Manifest V3 will help to bolster the “security, privacy, performance and trustworthiness of the extension ecosystem as a whole.” However, if some of your favorite extensions relied on the removed or limited functionality, they could no longer be effective or, at worst, be gone for good once Manifest V3 is released to everyone.

How to Check Which Chrome Extensions Are Affected

You can check if your extensions are affected by navigating to chrome://extensions. On this page, you’ll see a list of extensions Chrome will no longer support once Manifest V3 goes live.

If one of your extensions is affected, you can hope the developer updates the extension as soon as possible before Google’s deadline. However, you can also seek alternative extensions with the same functionality.

Google has a handy Find Alternative button available on the chrome://extensions page for any extension that will be defunct if the developer doesn’t provide an update before the deadline.

Alternatively, switch to another browser like Firefox, which still supports the Web Request API. Most Chrome extensions are also available on Firefox, so you might not miss out on much if you switch. If you’re worried about losing your data, you don’t have to. You can easily switch from Chrome to any other browser while retaining your bookmarks and settings.

Key Takeaways

• Chromebooks are extremely affordable; most range in price from $150 to $500.
• Chromebooks are portable due to their smaller size and weight, making them easy to carry anywhere.
• Chromebooks are simple to use thanks to a lightweight interface, suitable for users of all ages.

Chromebooks have evolved considerably since they launched in 2011 and are now more capable than ever. Why, then, do so few people consider them when buying their next laptop? This question has bugged me for ages, so I’m here to convince you to buy a Chromebook.

Why I’ve Been Using Chromebooks for Years

I purchased my first Chromebook in 2013, and have used one as my main laptop ever since. I may have gone through four different devices in that time, but this was by choice—shiny new Chromebooks compelled me to upgrade after a few years. I currently own a Pixelbook Go, the most powerful (and therefore expensive) Chromebook I have ever purchased.

I do also use an all-in-one Windows PC at home, when I want to sit upright at my desk. But at all other times, my humble Chromebook is perfect for work, play, and everything in between. There are many reasons I’ve stuck with Chromebooks for so many years, and why I think your next laptop should be a Chromebook.

Chromebooks Are Affordable

The first, and most obvious, reason to consider a Chromebook is the sheer affordability of these devices. If you shop around, you can pick one up for as little as $150, although most cost between $200 and $500. Either way, as laptops go, they’re extremely affordable.

Compare Chromebooks to Windows laptops or MacBooks, and the difference is clear. Excellent Chromebooks with great build quality, a good touchscreen, plenty of RAM, and a solid battery life are more affordable than poor-to-average Windows laptops. And even the best Chromebooks are cheaper than any MacBook you may be considering buying.

Chromebooks Are Portable

All laptops are portable, obviously; the clue is in the name. However, Chromebooks are particularly portable as they’re generally smaller and lighter than equivalent Windows laptops or MacBooks. Sure, you could drop $1,000 on a paper-thin MacBook Air, but as well as the high asking price, you’ll be stuck using macOS.

A machine’s portability isn’t just about its size and weight either. Because Chromebooks are so affordable and rugged, there’s an inherent portability about them. You can chuck one into a rucksack and use it anywhere you want without worrying too much about it getting stolen or damaged.

To connect your Chromebook to the internet while out of the house, you’ll need to use either a local internet connection or your phone’s mobile data.

Chromebooks Are Simple to Use

Chromebooks are so simple to use that anyone from young kids more used to phones to elderly people who have never used a computer could pick one up and use it without any guidance. As long as you have a Google account, you can use a Chromebook, basically. Press the power button, sign in, and you’re good to go within seconds.

ChromeOS is an extremely lightweight Linux distro. Because it relies on web-based applications and Android apps, it boots up in seconds, without the churn you’ll have experienced using Windows or macOS. And then, once you’re actually using ChromeOS, your main UI is the Google Chrome web browser. You’re probably already familiar with it, and Google is constantly improving it too.

If you ever get sick of ChromeOS’s simplicity—which is pretty unlikely—you can always install Windows on a Chromebook instead.

Chromebooks Are Versatile

When they first launched, Chromebooks were a little lacking in some areas, and this reputation has, unfortunately, stuck. However, modern Chromebooks are incredibly versatile machines, capable of running apps and games, handling your work and entertainment, and generally fulfilling what most people need from a laptop.

There will be web apps for most programs you’ll want to use, and if not, there will likely be an alternative that does the job. Any Chromebook you buy today can also run Android apps installed from the Google Play Store, opening up more options. This includes games, so, yes, you can use your Chromebook as a gaming machine.

There are even Chromebooks designed specifically for gaming, as they boast the processing power to support cloud gaming.

Chromebooks Are Durable

Last but not least of the reasons to buy a Chromebook is their durability. Admittedly, some of the early models were a little flimsy since manufacturers used cheap materials. I had one which I had to replace due to the hinge breaking. However, that was after using it every day for almost two years, and opening and closing it many times per day.

These days, Chromebooks are built to last, and built with students (their largest customer base) in mind. The cheapest Chromebooks may still feel a little plasticky, but once you hit the mid-range options, the build quality means that these devices are more than capable of taking some punishment.

Don’t Forget Battery Life and Security

Chromebooks have other, smaller advantages that I didn’t have time to go into: long battery life and top-notch security are just two examples.

Chromebooks boast some of the best battery life of any laptop you can buy, thanks to the lack of moving parts (such as a hard drive) and their use of efficient components. As a lightweight Linux distribution, ChromeOS requires far less power than Windows or macOS.

ChromeOS is also extremely secure, thanks to Google’s sandboxing approach to security. Any app you use will run in a self-contained environment, preventing it from infecting the rest of your system. And due to their always-online nature, Chromebooks will always be patched with updates, as long as your device is new enough to be supported.

For all these reasons, my next laptop will be a Chromebook—my fourth in a row. If you’ve been suckered into thinking your choice is a binary one between Windows and macOS, it’s time to rethink. For most types of work and entertainment, there’s a perfect Chromebook for you to buy.

Key Takeaways

• Choose custom laptop specifications, from GPU to port options, with the Framework laptop.
• Framework laptops are easily repairable, allowing users to swap out parts with standard tools.
• Reduce e-waste and customize hardware appearance with interchangeable options like keyboards and screen bezels on the Framework laptop.

Laptops are great for flexibility and portability. However, you cannot upgrade them, and you’re stuck with the specs that manufacturers offer. I plan to get a new computer in the next few months, and as I was browsing, saw the Framework laptop. Here’s why I find this laptop exciting—and why I’m going to buy it next.

1 I Can Choose the Specifications I Want

When I’m shopping for a specific laptop model, I’m typically limited to the specifications that the manufacturer offers. I’m not just talking about the processor and memory configurations here, though. I’m also looking at the discrete GPU, keyboard and macro pad options, and, most importantly, port options.

For example, I have a triple monitor workstation at home, but I occasionally spend a week working in another place every quarter or so. So, when I’m at home, I want a laptop with a discrete GPU, two Thunderbolt 4 ports, two USB-A ports, an audio port, and an ethernet port.

But when I’m outside, I’ll swap out the discrete GPU for Expansion Bay Shell since I rarely game when I’m exploring another place. I also don’t need the audio and ethernet ports, so I’ll swap them out for the microSD expansion card and an HDMI port for my portable monitor. These swappable ports mean I no longer need to carry a separate USB hub, like the Baseus Metal Gleam Series II.

2 The Framework Laptop Is Easy to Repair

Most thin-and-light laptops aren’t repair-friendly, as many manufacturers solder everything and use glue to keep everything tight. However, Framework has been able to retain the same slim form factor while keeping everything modular. This makes it the darling of the right-to-repair movement, showing everyone how a laptop should be built.

So, if you ever encounter a problem with a battery, screen, or any other part or peripheral, you just need to pop open the cover, use a standard small screwdriver, and you can easily swap out parts. You don’t have to take the laptop to a specialist or deal with expensive service fees to repair the Framework laptop.

This even applies to warranty services. For example, say one of the memory cards on the Framework laptop fails. You can then disassemble and take out the bad part and still use the laptop while you’re waiting for a replacement; that way, you’re not without a laptop as Framework ships you a new RAM stick.

3 I Don’t Have to Buy a New Laptop to Upgrade It

One reason I’m looking at a new PC is that my current one is turning five next year. Since I use my computer primarily for work, I stick to a five-year upgrade cadence to ensure reliability. However, that means I must buy a new laptop every five years to keep up with technology because I can’t upgrade it piece by piece.

With a Framework laptop, I can just choose the parts I want to upgrade as needed. For example, let’s say I bought a Framework laptop 16 today with a Ryzen 9 7940HS, Radeon RX 7700S, 64GB of RAM, and 4TB of storage. If I want to upgrade to a new discrete GPU next year, I can just buy one from Framework and slap it in the Framework 16 instead of buying an all-new laptop altogether.

It also applies to all other parts, like the processor, RAM, storage, and even the display. Framework has proven its support for multiple generations of CPUs, as it started with an 11th-gen Intel CPU. The Framework 13 now supports Intel Core Ultra Series 1 and AMD Ryzen 7040 series chips, and you don’t have to buy an all-new laptop just to upgrade to these latest processors.

4 I Reduce E-Waste With the Framework Laptop

One side effect of this modularity is that I greatly reduce e-waste with the Framework laptop. So, if I encounter an issue with the Framework laptop after its warranty expires, it’s much easier (and cheaper) to replace the problematic parts compared to non-modular laptops, giving users less incentive to buy a new laptop and throw away the old one.

This is unlike before, when you’re more likely to discard a fixable old laptop because the complexity of the repair drives up the cost, making it impractical to fix.

This is also true with upgrades. Since I can just buy and install new parts, I don’t have to purchase a new laptop every so often and I can just keep my Framework laptop chugging along for several years. I no longer have to add to my stack of 10-, 15-, and 20-year-old laptops just sitting in my drawer since I (nor anyone else I know) would have no use for them anymore.

So, buying a Framework laptop is one of the ways I can reduce e-waste. Even if just a thousand people buy and upgrade a Framework laptop a decade, that’ll keep about 2,000 laptops out of the landfill if everyone typically replace their computers every three years.

5 I Can Easily Change How the Laptop Looks and Make It Unique

Aside from the easily interchangeable hardware, the Framework laptop is also fairly customizable. The company offers a plethora of keyboards, including ANSI and ISO layouts and keyboards for different languages, such as Traditional Chinese, Korean, Danish, Swedish, Spanish, German, International English, US English, British English, French, and more.

You also get a Numpad Module and an RGB Macro pad option for those who work with a lot of numbers and those who need extra assignable keys. Aside from that, Framework also offers three different screen bezel colors, five spacer colors (if I don’t want to install the Numpad or macro pad), and even a programmable LED Matrix.

Framework also partnered with Cooler Master and started offering cases for 11th- to 13th-gen Intel mainboards, allowing users who are upgrading to more modern chips to use these older ones as a standalone PC. And, if you’re the type to build your own custom parts, there’s also the Framework Community. This is where you can find projects and ideas that will help my Framework laptop truly your own.

These are some of the few things why I excited to get my hands on a Framework laptop when I upgrade my computer next year. It’s like having the size and portability of a laptop, but the upgradability and utility of a desktop computer. I just hope that it becomes available across more areas next year, as it’s not yet available in my region. But if I was based in the U.S., then I’d definitely have this as my next Windows PC.

Key Takeaways

• Elgato’s Stream Deck Neo offers a more affordable, work-focused alternative to the regular Stream Deck.
• The Stream Deck Neo includes capacitive touch buttons to navigate between pages, maximizing functionality.
• With a compact, professional design, the Stream Deck Neo provides eight buttons at a competitive price of $99.99.

Whether you’re streaming or working on a spreadsheet, a macro pad can help you in more ways than you can imagine. With its launch of the Stream Deck Neo, Elgato is turning its focus to the world of work. The new Neo might just be your perfect productivity companion.

Stream Deck vs Stream Deck Neo

You may be confused about which Stream Deck model to buy, and the decision’s about to get harder. The Neo is the latest addition to Elgato’s Stream Deck lineup, sitting between the Stream Deck Mini and the regular Stream Deck.

The “Neo” tag comes from the new budget-friendly lineup that the company has launched. These products, which aim to be more accessible to a mass audience, include a key light, mic, and webcam. But the Stream Deck Neo is something new altogether.

The device is larger than the Stream Deck Mini, so it packs in more functionality. But it’s also affordable enough to appeal to new buyers who aren’t full-time Twitch streamers. In my opinion, the Stream Deck Neo hits the spot if you’re looking for a macro pad to boost productivity without having to spend too much money.

How Does It Help Productivity?

At its core, the Stream Deck Neo is very much a regular Stream Deck. You get eight buttons, with individual displays, that you can set to do anything you want. The Deck also lets you create custom profiles for individual programs.

The Neo’s core functionality is supported by Elgato’s Stream Deck application. This means the Stream Deck Neo, the regular Stream Deck, Stream Deck Mini, and Stream Deck XL all work the same way.

Keep in mind that you can still use your regular Stream Deck to help your productivity. But the additions that Elgato has made to the Neo may help you even more.

Dedicated Page Buttons

Unlike other Stream Decks, the Neo has capacitive touch buttons to switch between pages. These pages let you create several groups of shortcuts or commands, in case you need more than eight.

On older Stream Decks, you had to dedicate at least one or two of the main buttons to navigate between pages. That doesn’t sound like a lot, but those 15 keys on the regular Stream Deck can run out pretty quickly.

The Stream Deck Neo solves this problem by adding two capacitive touch buttons that are mapped to switch between pages. This frees up all eight buttons for actual functionality. Since the navigation buttons are always in the same spot, illuminated by individual lights, they’re quick and easy to use.

More Buttons

Speaking of buttons, the Stream Deck Neo hits the right spot with its eight buttons. If you’re just planning on using a Stream Deck for work macros and general productivity, 15 buttons on the regular Stream Deck can be overkill, while the six buttons on the Stream Deck Mini can be too few.

Considering you don’t have to assign buttons to switch pages, the Stream Deck Neo has just the right number of buttons.

The Info Bar

The Stream Deck Neo comes with a small display called the info bar, between the two page-switching buttons, that shows useful, basic information. If you’re using a regular Stream Deck and want it to tell the time or date, you have to dedicate a button to that task. However, the Neo can display this information in its info bar.

Admittedly, the info bar doesn’t do that much; you can set it to show either a page indicator or the system time. Elgato’s software design does suggest that we’ll see more options in the future, though.

One great use of the info bar would be if it displayed different contents based on the active page. Hopefully, Elgato will add more utilities to the info bar in the future, which will greatly enhance the device’s functionality.

More Work-Focused Design

The design language of the Stream Deck lineup has remained more or less the same since it launched in 2017. For most people, it’s a simple black box with customizable buttons on top. With the Mk 2 iteration, you can get the Stream Deck in a white color with interchangeable faceplates, but that’s about it.

The Neo takes everything good about the Stream Deck’s design and puts it together in a package that will look just as good on an accountant’s desk as it does for a gamer playing Fortnite. The collapsible stand at the rear also gives you two different slant angles and an option to lay the device flat on your desk.

The overall form factor is quite compact, and the rounded edges give it a neat, professional look. So the Stream Deck Neo won’t look out of place on your desk at work. The white color scheme pairs especially well with a Mac, in case you’re looking to up your productivity on a Mac with your Stream Deck.

A Competitive Price

Last but not least, the Stream Deck Neo is selling at a very compelling price tag of $99.99. For comparison, the Stream Deck Mk.2 retails at $149.99, while the smaller Stream Deck Mini comes in at $59.99. The only other options in the lineup are the gigantic Stream Deck XL at $249.99 and the Stream Deck + at $199.99.

The latter two serve very different purposes, but if you’re looking to get a Stream Deck for productivity, the Neo may be your best option. It’s not as expensive as the regular Stream Deck, but retains full functionality and, as far as I’m concerned, a much better design. The Stream Deck Mini is a good alternative if you’re on a tight budget, but the limitations of its six buttons might hamper your productivity instead of enhancing it.

Key Takeaways

• Affinity Photo 2 offers advanced photo editing with a user-friendly interface and non-destructive RAW editing.
• Capture One allows for instant photo sharing and editing.
• VSCO provides unique filters and editing tools but requires a subscription for full access.

Artificial intelligence is being integrated into just about everything nowadays, and one popular use case is taking and editing photographs. If, like me, you prefer to edit your photos manually, here are the best apps I’ve tried that use little or no AI.

1 Affinity Photo 2

Affinity Photo is a multi-award-winning editing app that can be used on macOS, Windows, and iPad, which means you can work on the same file using any of these devices. Standout features of Affinity Photo include skin retouching and blemish removal, a huge library of filters and effects, and extremely precise pen and brush options. While Affinity supports various AI plugins and extensions, these, thankfully, aren’t mandatory for editing your images.

The latest iteration, Affinity Photo 2, has a much-improved user interface layout, which is smoother and more intuitive. In addition, the most recent update allows for non-destructive editing of RAW files, which means you can edit and develop RAW images (such as those created with a DSLR camera) without losing a copy of the original RAW file, making it an excellent choice for professional and keen photographers.

Download: Affinity Photo 2 for Windows and Mac | iPad ($33.99 for Mac and Windows, $8.99 for iPad)

2 Capture One

If you work as part of a team or want to instantly share photos with collaborators, then you might want to check out Capture One. This software allows you to shoot images directly to a desktop, iPad, or iPhone, without any uploading or downloading, allowing for instant feedback from friends or clients.

Capture One features all the expected editing tools, along with a large range of preset filters and styles. While Capture One does incorporate AI, you can choose the level integration, and just leave the boring jobs like exposure balance and cropping to the robots, thus saving your time for the artistic touches.

You can take advantage of the 30-day free trial, after which there are various paid packages available, from the dedicated mobile app to the full studio subscription for professionals.

Download: Capture One for Windows and Mac | iOS (Free, subscription available)

3 VSCO

Similar to Instagram, VSCO is an image-sharing and editing app that works across Android, iOS, and desktop devices, allowing photographers to share their photos with other users on the platform. While there is a free version available, it only provides limited access to the VSCO community and the editing functions. To take advantage of over 200 preset filters and advanced editing tools, you will need to purchase a monthly or yearly subscription.

Standout features of VSCO include access to imaging effects and GIFs that aren’t found on other platforms, a unique range of movie-inspired effects and overlays—think graining, scratches, or dust—and the ability to group collections and galleries together, and choose who can see them.

Download: VSCO for Android | iOS (Free, subscription available)

4 Afterlight 2

Afterlight and the all-new Afterlight 2 are both software applications designed for Apple devices. However, there is now a version that runs on Windows. It is aimed more at beginner photographers and has a simple, user-friendly interface with large, clear icons. It supports importing RAW images and exporting files in HEIC, or High-Efficiency Image Compression format.

Along with a full suite of editing features, the app also allows you to adjust some of the settings on your phone camera before you take a photo, such as white balance, exposure, shutter speed, and ISO. The app also allows you to add layers of graphics and text to create stunning and unique visuals, and then upload them to social media.

Download: Afterlight 2 for Windows | iOS (Free, subscription available)

While artificial intelligence is certainly a useful and welcome addition to our lives, there are some things that the artistic among us would just rather do ourselves. To the discerning photographer, an editing tool that allows full user control is much more useful than an AI-powered tool that churns out run-of-the-mill photos.

Key Takeaways

• Remove Yahoo from the list of search engines and set your preferred search engine, such as Google, as the default.
• Check for and remove potentially unwanted programs (PUPs) on your device. Likewise, run a malware scan to remove viruses and threats.
• If none of these solutions work, uninstall Chrome and its remaining files. After that, reinstall a fresh copy.

Google is the default search engine in the Chrome web browser since both are Google products. However, malware or potentially unwanted programs (PUPs) can automatically switch the default search engine from Google to Yahoo.

Here’s how to remove the Yahoo search engine and save yourself the hassle of repeatedly changing it back.

Set Your Preferred Search Engine as Default

Chrome allows users to use different search engines, with default options including Bing, DuckDuckGo, Yandex, and Yahoo. First, check what search engine your browser is using as its default. If that’s Yahoo, you can change Chrome’s default search engine and return it to Google.

1. Click on three vertical dots in the top-right corner and select Settings.
2. Navigate to the Search Engine tab from the left sidebar.
3. Click on Manage Search Engines and Site Search
4. If Yahoo is set as default, tap on three vertical dots next to Google and click Make Default.

Switching the default search engine to Google should temporarily fix the issue. However, it may automatically revert to its previous state after a few days. So, to make this change foolproof, you’ll have to remove Yahoo and other search engines.

Remove Yahoo’s Search Engine From Chrome

In Chrome, you can remove Yahoo from the search engine list to minimize the chance that your browser will default to Yahoo again.

1. Click on three vertical dots in the top-right corner and select Settings.
2. From the left sidebar, navigate to Search Engine.
3. Click on Manage Search Engines and Site Search.
4. Tap on the three vertical dots right next to Yahoo.
5. Hit Delete.

Additionally, you can remove all other search engines, except Chrome, from the list if they become defaults. After this, your browser cannot default to Yahoo again.

Identify and Remove Potentially Unwanted Programs

If Google’s search engine is replaced by Yahoo again, you should remove any Potentially Unwanted Programs (PUPs) that might be causing the issue, particularly those associated with Yahoo.

To do this, type Control Panel in Windows Search, open the Control Panel app, and go to Programs and Features. Here, look for any suspicious programs that may be associated with Yahoo, right-click on them one by one, and select Uninstall.

Run a Security Checkup on Your Computer

If none of the previous fixes worked, it’s time to check your computer for browser hijackers or malicious files that need removal. Run the Microsoft Defender virus scan to eliminate hidden, potentially harmful files.

Microsoft Defender will detect threats and inform you of their severity. If it finds any malware or threats, remove them immediately. Depending on the amount of data on your system, the scan might take some time.

If you’re facing this issue on macOS, check your MacBook for malware and remove any you find.

None of the Fixes Worked? Reinstall Chrome

As a last resort, you can try reinstalling Chrome. First, uninstall Chrome and its associated files before reinstalling it.

Windows users can refer to this article on how to uninstall programs in Windows, while macOS users can refer to this guide on how to uninstall programs on a Mac.

After uninstalling Chrome according to these guides, delete any remaining files to ensure no junk data is left behind. Then, install a fresh copy of Chrome.

If you’re looking to stay up to date with the latest cybersecurity news, you’ll find plenty of forums for all manner of security topics and genres. Here are some of the best places to ensure that you remain up to speed.

Reddit is one of the most popular online forum sites, and it has several subreddits related to security—including r/Cybersecurity. The subreddit has over 800,000 members, and users post links to security-related stories daily. You can also talk about different topics in the cybersecurity space and seek inspiration and tips from others.

If you want to make a career in cybersecurity, you’ll also find associated tips. There are several features you can use to improve your Reddit experience, too, such as using the search function within r/Cybersecurity and other subreddits.

Even if there are several great alternatives to Malwarebytes Premium, it’s still an excellent tool for keeping your computer safe. But beyond the main product, you’ll also find a comprehensive forum with several subcategories. If you’re looking to get your news, you should go to the Research Center section.

In the Malwarebytes’ Research Center, you’ll see all of the latest threats that could impact your Windows or Mac computer. On top of that, you will also find a list of the latest malware and mobile threats—plus more.

The forum also has a section where you can keep up with the latest news about Malwarebytes, such as new features and updates. And if you’re having trouble using the app, you’ll also find assistance related to solving those issues.

MalwareTips has a similar layout to Reddit in the way that you can browse posts by new, popular, and other subcategories. Users will share news related to privacy and security with links to various publications around the web. You also have easy access to cybersecurity news if you click on the News tab.

MalwareTips lets you browse forum posts based on both security and tech news. The forum has a few news-related posts per day on average, but you won’t necessarily see daily content. Nonetheless, it’s worth checking out once per week to stay updated with what’s going on. Besides reading the forum’s posts, you can reduce your chances of infecting your device by understanding the most common sources of malware.

To browse the Malwarebytes forum in more detail, you need to sign up for an account. You may also want to sign up for a Malwarebytes trial if you need a Kapersky alternative following its ban in the US.

The Antionline forum has a dedicated security news section that receives intermittent updates, but you can learn more about cybersecurity thanks to its subsections. For example, you’ll find tips about web security, programming security, regulatory compliance, and network safety. If you’re on the lookout for a new antivirus tool, this is also the place to go.

To get a better overview of what’s happening in the forum, you can navigate to the What’s New? Tab. Here, you’ll see all of the latest posts, comments, and so on. At the very least, you’ll have a better understanding of cybersecurity trends and threat awareness after spending some time on Antionline.

Another Reddit forum worth checking out for cybersecurity news is r/Malware. Whereas r/Cybersecurity is more general and also covers careers in cybersecurity, the r/Malware subreddit is more focused on—you guessed it—malware.

You’ll see malware-related news and round-ups in this forum, and people will also report on what they’ve experienced on a personal level. If you’re having issues with malware infecting your device, you can also ask this forum for tips.

r/Malware is much smaller than r/Cybersecurity, with around 79,000 members. Nonetheless, that’s still a pretty substantial number. Moreover, you might also like the fact that it’s more targeted. If you want to start from scratch when using the app, you can always delete your Reddit history, too.

If you own a Windows computer, you’ll find Windows 11 Forum a goldmine of information for fixing issues and using your device in general. However, it’s also quite useful if you want to keep up with the latest security news. You’ll find a handy News tab, which shares both Windows and tech-related news.

While these are naturally mixed with other forms of news, you can use the search tab to search specifically for cybersecurity news and posts. It’s worth using several terms and seeing what you can find, such as “malware”, “security”, and “VPN”. There’s a decent level of security news posted, so you’ll often find new results and articles to read.

By using the search feature, you’ll also be able to find helpful tips and tricks posted by others. Even though the forum is primarily for Windows users, you can still find some use from it if you’ve got a MacBook.

Security is one of the most comprehensive online resources for security news, and you’ll find content covering several topics—such as cybercrime, data breaches, and cyber warfare. The article is updated with the latest news stories across the security space, and you can sign up for the newsletter if you want stories delivered to your inbox.

If you want more in-depth content, Security Affairs has what you need. A ticker of must-read stories at the top of the homepage keeps you up to date on all the essential stories.

Besides reading the latest news, you can also implement various minimalist cybersecurity tips to stay safe.

Staying up to date with the latest security news will help you identify problems that you may need to fix in your own life, such as updating your devices or learning what to be aware of. With several online forums to help you out, you can easily enhance your online security by checking these out. It’s also a good idea to contribute to them so you can meet like-minded people.

Key Takeaways

• You can use Facebook Marketplace for buying and selling a wide range of items safely by checking profiles and descriptions.
• Be cautious of potential scams by paying in cash, researching thoroughly, and setting clear communication expectations.
• Take the time to research items and profiles, set realistic prices, and maintain good communication with buyers and sellers for successful transactions.

Facebook Marketplace is a popular way to buy or sell second-hand items online. But is it safe to use? Here are my experiences and tips to get the best results on Marketplace.

What Is Facebook Marketplace?

Facebook Marketplace is an online market hosted by Facebook. To use Facebook Marketplace, you must have a Facebook profile. There are no restrictions on who can buy or sell, with all communication taking place between the buyer and seller only.

Facebook Marketplace was introduced to the social platform in 2016 as a built-in way for users to buy and sell items. You can find the Marketplace as a Facebook app from both the mobile app and browser versions of Facebook. You can buy and sell almost anything on Facebook Marketplace, whether it’s small home goods like bedside cabinets and smartphones or large-ticket items like cars or even houses.

My Experience Buying on Facebook Marketplace

When I’m looking to buy specific items, Facebook Marketplace is often my go-to platform. Over the years, I’ve bought two cars and a campervan through Marketplace, as well as a MacBook Pro, other electronics, and home goods like lamps. Marketplace is a great way to buy a discounted MacBook or other typically high-priced electronic goods.

Facebook Marketplace sellers who have sold multiple items may also have reviews from previous buyers. I check their reviews and their profile before messaging. I always write a custom message rather than the default one Facebook supplies, as I want to show the buyer that I’m genuinely interested and not a scam bot.

Before messaging a seller, I read the entire description. Sometimes sellers list a lower price for attention, and they’ll write the real—higher—price in the description, or other caveats such as the item not functioning. When researching a product, I also compare prices and conditions with other retailers or discount marketplaces to know the item’s worth.

While it isn’t the best safety tip to meet a stranger at their or your house, that’s where I’ve met most of the sellers when buying items. I’m always communicative and punctual when meeting a seller and I often take another person with me for safety, confidence, or help with loading.

I’ve only had positive experiences as a buyer on Facebook Marketplace. I always research the product and the seller beforehand, and if anything feels off, then I drop out of the deal. You can’t return items bought from Facebook Marketplace, so when I meet to buy, I always check the item thoroughly before exchanging cash.

My Experience Selling on Facebook Marketplace

As a seller on Marketplace, I’ve found many more frustrations than I do as a buyer. It’s common that users don’t read the description and sometimes don’t look at all the photos. While I still recommend uploading all the information, just be aware that it doesn’t mean people look at it.

When arranging for a buyer to come to pick up their item, I give them specific time parameters for visiting—otherwise they might waste your entire day—and explain whether the item will need another person to help load it or other important information.

I only accept cash payment as this helps avoid scams with online banking or failed transactions, and I wait until everything is confirmed before I give my full address—I’ll provide a nearby vague area before that.

After selling an item, you can set the listing to “Sold” which will stop people from messaging you continually asking if the item is still available. This is preferable rather than deleting the listing advert, since it shows your selling history, which can help vouch for you as a review in the future.

How I Spot Scams on Facebook Marketplace

There are ways to stay safe on Facebook Marketplace, and there are many things you should take note of as both a buyer and seller on Marketplace.

Firstly, write a full and honest description of your item. Include images of any damage and explain anything the new owner should know. As a buyer, making sure you read and look at all the information presented helps you buy your product with correct expectations.

Check out a buyer or seller’s profile. This helps to see if they are genuine, if their story lines up with their conversation, and if they have any negative reviews or interactions that make you wary to engage with them.

Use apps to reverse image search the listings images. This helps confirm the listing is genuine, as the photos shouldn’t be available elsewhere. Similarly, look for duplicate listings with the same title, images, or descriptions. There should only be one listing for one item.

Typically, the best way to avoid a scam through Marketplace is to only pay in cash once you physically exchange the item. It’s not recommended to pay online, through a bank transfer, and especially not using any online gift cards.

Some people prefer to lock down their Facebook privacy settings if they are selling or buying frequently on Marketplace. This includes changing your name—use your middle name or a shortened version of your last name—and keeping any recent photos of you and your loved ones viewable to your Friends List only. Don’t fill your feed with your upcoming vacation plans if you’re giving your address to strangers when selling items.

Selling on Facebook Marketplace is a great way to clear your possessions responsibly or for buyers to find new items at great prices. Just keep your wits about you and remember the buyer or seller is a stranger who you owe no loyalty to and selling or buying something fast isn’t worth being scammed.

My Advice to Facebook Users on Marketplace

Take your time to research both products and profiles when using Marketplace. Don’t let the FOMO cause mistakes or scamming opportunities when you excitedly confirm a purchase.

To avoid wasting your time, give a time parameter for anyone you’re meeting with. If they fail to arrive, move on to the next person in line. It’s common that some Marketplace users have bad communication, are late, or even totally ghost you. Don’t get disheartened, just move on.

Since Marketplace doesn’t charge fees or process any payments, you can set the price however you like—including giving away items for free. From experience, most people who buy from Marketplace will try to push the price lower, so price your item with that in mind. It’s easiest to take cash only, so round the price to an even number.

To avoid people messing you around if you want to give an item away for free, just put a small price like $10 on it. It’s up to you whether you still give it for free when the buyer shows up, but it’s a low enough price to stop time-wasters.

Facebook Marketplace is a helpful tool for people clearing out unwanted possessions and for those who want to buy new-to-them items without eye-watering prices. Being communicative and honest will yield the best results for both sellers and buyers.

Google’s Play Store is undoubtedly the biggest source of Android apps, but that doesn’t mean it has everything. There are some real gems in a popular alternative app store called F-Droid. Here are some of my favorites.

1 Kvaesitso

Most launchers consist of app grids, but not Kvaesitso, which instead places the focus on your widgets and the ability to search for what you need.

In Kvaesitso, your Home screen shows only a clock and a search bar (though you can add a dock if you wish). Swipe up to view all of your widgets arranged in a column. Tap the search bar or swipe down to search for apps, files, contacts, web links, and more.

For such an unconventional launcher, Kvaesitso remains highly customizable, giving you a wide range of freedom to make the distinct experience better fit your tastes.

Download:Kvaesitso (Free)

2 Auxio

Streaming music has never been my thing, but I love local music players. Auxio has been my go-to for years. It’s a beautiful app that fully embraces Android’s Material You vibe.

Are there standout features about Auxio that set it apart from other players? I think of it the other way. It has all the essential features, is fully free, and doesn’t track my listening habits. By setting such a high bar, I’m left wondering: why search for anything else?

Download:Auxio (Free)

3 Breezy Weather

Weather apps are a dime a dozen. Unfortunately, many weather apps are privacy nightmares, tracking your location and selling that information. They can monetize your usage even if they don’t show you ads.

Breezy Weather is a fully open-source and private option that is also one of the more attractive weather apps around. The card-based layout feels right at home on a Pixel, and you get a diverse selection of widgets.

On top of that, the app includes an animated live wallpaper that changes to match the current weather in your area.

Download:Breezy Weather (Free)

4 Table Habit

An issue I regularly face with to-do list apps is that many of my tasks are small and recurring. I don’t need to give them an urgency level, set a due date, or write a detailed description. I just want to remember to do them and maybe have an idea of how often I’ve missed the mark. The Table Habit app is perfect for this sort of task.

It can help you do more of the tasks you consider positive or reduce the habits you think of as bad. Need to water the plants each morning? Set a reminder in Table Habit and jot down when you’re done so you also have a record of how often you’ve watered. Want to spend fewer hours binge-watching Netflix shows? Set a goal and note whether you’ve gone over.

The app is a helpful aid that isn’t trying to sell you a subscription service to monetize your desire to make a few positive changes in your life. You can think of it as a less flashy version of the Habits app that helps you build productive habits.

Download:Table Habit (Free)

5 Fridgey

I’ve never been big on apps that help you catalog the items in your home, be that books or your vinyl collection, but I do get the appeal, particularly with an app like Fridgey. This is a place to log all the food in your fridge to help you keep tabs on what you have on hand.

Yes, using this app takes quite a bit of work. Still, it can go rather far in helping you cut down on food waste and save money since it helps you not only view what you have but also manage expiration dates. This way, you cook food before it goes past its prime. You can pair Fridgey with other ways to use tech to save money on groceries.

Download:Fridgey (Free)

6 Orgzly Revived

Orgzly is both a note-taking and to-do list app. You arrange notes into notebooks and have the freedom to both jot and sort things however you want.

You can include to-dos within notes and mark them as done. You can use your notes as tasks and give them a date. In short, you can view your notes as notes, tasks, or calendar events.

Orgzly is available on the Play Store, but that version hasn’t been updated in a few years. Orgzly Revived is a fork of that project that still receives support. It’s a good option unless you need a cross-platform note-taking app you can use on multiple devices.

Download:Orgzly Revived (Free)

7 Wall You

Many of us prefer Android because it gives us much more freedom to make the device our own. We can change the launcher, app icons, and the theme. Yet when you’re done with all of these, you still need a good wallpaper. It’s a shame that searching for one online can be an overwhelming, somewhat sketchy-feeling affair.

Wall You is a polished app that displays wallpapers from various sites such as Wallhaven, Unsplash, OWalls, and Bing without exposing you to tracking or anything nefarious. You can add wallpapers to your favorites for later use and apply them to your phone directly from the app.

Download:Wall You (Free)

8 Sharing

AirDrop and Quick Share are great if you’re operating within one ecosystem, but their usefulness falls apart when you use an unsupported device. Cloud storage services are great, but they’re a bit excessive if you just want to send a file from one device to another.

Sharing is an app that works across any device as long as the receiver is connected to the same network and can open a web browser. You select files on your phone that you wish to share, press the Power button within the app, and then type in the displayed URL in a web browser on the receiving device (or scan the generated QR code).

Sharing uses unsecured HTTP, so if you’re on a public Wi-Fi network, it’s best to first generate a hotspot on your phone and connect the receiving devices to it. This way, no one else can snoop on your files during the transfer process.

Download:Sharing (Free)

The above apps are all free and open source. So, even if I didn’t explicitly call out their privacy credentials, know they’re safer options than trying out apps randomly from the Play Store. Why expose yourself to relentless tracking and ads if you don’t have to?

Once you’ve downloaded your favorite streaming apps or the messaging apps you need for your social circle, check out F-Droid when you need a useful tool or utility. There are more options out there than you might expect.

Despite being Samsung’s first smart ring, the Galaxy Ring packs all the health-focused features you’d expect. This makes it a great competitor to the Oura Ring, which has been the go-to choice for many. We think the Galaxy Ring is a better choice, though, and here’s why.

1 No Monthly Subscription

The Galaxy Ring costs $399.99 in the US, while the Oura Ring starts at $299—$100 cheaper than Samsung’s offering. The latter is available in multiple finishes, with the Stealth and Gold variants costing $400 and $450, respectively. The Hozion variant of the Oura Ring starts from $349 and features a titanium body.

Given the lower starting price, you might think the Oura Ring provides more value for money than Samsung’s smart ring. But that’s not the case.

To unlock additional features with the Oura Ring, you also need the Oura membership. For $5.99 per month, the membership provides access to detailed sleep analysis, personalized health insights, body temperature tracking, and even basic features like live heart rate monitoring. Oura provides a free month of membership with the ring, but once it expires, you have to subscribe to the paid plan.

The Galaxy Ring syncs all health data to the Samsung Health app, with none of its functionality locked behind a paywall.

If you plan to use the Oura Ring for three years, you will pay an additional $216 over its lifetime. So, while the Oura smart ring might seem cheaper than Samsung’s offering, you’ll end up paying more in the long run.

2 Portable Charging Case

Both Samsung and Oura ship their rings with a size-specific charger. However, Samsung’s implementation has an edge, as the Galaxy Ring charger is portable and easy to carry.

It’s similar to a charging case for a pair of wireless earbuds, except that it doesn’t have a built-in battery. Instead, you have to plug in a USB-C cable connected to a power adapter to start charging.

The Galaxy Ring’s charging case also supports wireless charging, which allows you to place the case on top of a wireless charger for a quick top-up.

The portable design of the charging case makes it easy to charge the Galaxy Ring anywhere. In comparison, the Oura Ring’s charger isn’t designed for portability. To initiate charging, you must place the charger on a desk and then place the ring in the cradle.

3 Gesture Controls

While basic, the Galaxy Ring supports two handy gestures. You can use a double punch gesture to dismiss alarms and take a picture or video in the Camera app. The only catch is that these gestures only work when you’ve paired the Galaxy Ring with a Samsung phone. It won’t work with non-Samsung phones.

On the other hand, the Oura Ring does not support any such gesture, limiting its usefulness.

The ability to dismiss an alarm or trigger the shutter in the Camera app through a smart ring is handy, and Oura should consider bringing a similar feature to its ring. Samsung could also expand gesture support on the Galaxy Ring to control more features, including incoming calls.

4 More Size Options

Samsung offers the Galaxy Ring in nine sizes ranging from size 5 to 13. In comparison, the Oura Ring is available in eight sizes, from sizes 6 to 13. This means the Galaxy Ring is available in an additional smaller size than the Oura.

So, if you have tiny hands and fingers, the Galaxy Ring might be your only choice. And if it matters, the Galaxy Ring is also one gram lighter than the Oura, though you are unlikely to notice this.

Both companies are willing to send you a free sizing kit so that you can determine and order the correct ring size.

The Galaxy Ring and Oura Ring are both impressive smart rings with advanced health-tracking capabilities and a long battery life. But when you compare the two, it’s clear that Samsung’s first smart ring gets a lot of things right and provides a superior experience.

Unfortunately, Apple Intelligence isn’t available for all devices that support iOS/iPadOS 18 and macOS Sequoia. But does your iPhone, iPad, or Mac make it to Apple’s list of compatible devices? Let’s find out below.

iPhones That Support Apple Intelligence

Apple severely limits the iPhone models that support the various Apple Intelligence features announced at WWDC 2024. Unfortunately, you need an iPhone with at least the A17 Pro chip or newer to use Apple Intelligence. Here are the only models that are eligible as of August 2024:

• iPhone 15 Pro
• iPhone 15 Pro Max

Even the standard iPhone 15 models don’t support Apple Intelligence since they pack the older A16 Bionic chip from the iPhone 14 Pro models.

iPads That Support Apple Intelligence

Unlike iPhones, you don’t need the latest and greatest iPads to use Apple Intelligence when Apple rolls it out in fall 2024. All you need is an iPad with the M1 chip or newer, and you’re good to go. Here’s the complete list:

• iPad Pro 11-inch and 12.9-inch with the M1 chip (2021)
• iPad Pro 11-inch and 12.9-inch with the M2 chip (2022)
• iPad Pro 11-inch and 13-inch with the M4 chip (2024)
• iPad Air 10.9-inch with the M1 chip (2022)
• iPad Air 11-inch and 13-inch with the M2 chip (2024)

As you can see, if you bought a high-end iPad in the last three years, you don’t have to worry about Apple Intelligence support.

Macs That Support Apple Intelligence

Like iPads, Apple limits Apple Intelligence to Mac models powered by Apple silicon chips (M1 and newer). If you’re unsure, you can quickly check if your Mac has an Intel or Apple silicon chip. Either way, here are all the supported Macs:

• MacBook Air 13-inch (late 2020 and newer)
• MacBook Air 15-inch (all models)
• MacBook Pro 14-inch (all models)
• MacBook Pro 16-inch (2021 and newer)
• Mac mini (late 2020 and newer)
• iMac (2021)
• Mac Studio (2022)
• Mac Pro (2023)

Even though Apple began its transition to Apple silicon chips in 2020, I’m quite surprised that even a 2020 Mac is fully capable of running Apple Intelligence, but an iPhone from 2023 can’t do the same.

If your Apple devices made the above list, know that you don’t have to wait for Apple to roll out Apple Intelligence to the general public in fall 2024. You can try Apple Intelligence right now by installing the iOS/iPadOS 18.1 or macOS Sequoia 15.1 beta.

However, note that not all Apple Intelligence features are available, and since these software builds are in their early experimental stages, you may encounter bugs and other issues more often than you’d like.

Key Takeaways

• The DualSense Edge controller provides enhanced control with back paddles and hair triggers for improved performance and responsiveness.
• Comprehensive software allows for deep customization, tailored profiles, and independent stick sensitivity adjustments.
• The modular design allows for easy stick and faceplate customization and eliminates stick drift issues found in standard DualSense controllers.

When the DualSense Edge was first announced, I was skeptical. I honestly thought it was just gimmicky hardware. But after weeks of using it, I can confidently say it’s been an absolute game-changer. It’s not just a controller; it’s a performance upgrade.

Here’s why I think the controller is worth it.

1 Enhanced Control with Back Paddles and Hair Triggers

Although the standard DualSense controller has many hidden features, it doesn’t quite feel like the ultimate pro-gaming weapon. The DualSense Edge, however, absolutely delivers on this promise.

The controller includes two sets of buttons you can install on the backside. Once installed, you can assign any button or action to them. I’ve found the paddles incredibly useful in competitive shooters, where split-second decisions can make all the difference.

For example, I can assign sprint to one paddle and reload to the other. This means that if I’m walking and sense that an enemy might be onto me, I can quickly sprint away and reload my weapon without moving my thumbs off the right stick.

Another standout feature is the hair triggers. Adjusting the trigger sensitivity to my preference has significantly improved my aim and responsiveness. The switches for adjusting the trigger lengths are conveniently located right next to them, so you can do it on the fly without opening an app.

For instance, when I’m playing a game like GTA, I set the trigger length to a minimum on foot, so I can quickly shoot my weapon. For driving, I set the trigger length to maximum to have more control over the car’s acceleration. It’s like having a tailor-made controller designed specifically for my play style.

2 Comprehensive Software for Customization

The software accompanying the DualSense Edge is a game-changer in personalization. It’s incredibly user-friendly and offers a deep level of customization that I haven’t seen in any other controller. The possibilities are endless, from adjusting dead zones and trigger sensitivity to creating custom button mappings. I’ve spent countless hours fine-tuning my settings to create profiles tailored to different games.

As you’d expect, you can create multiple profiles and quickly switch between profiles for different games, ensuring optimal settings for each one. The software also allows you to adjust the stick sensitivity independently, which is a fantastic feature for games that require precise aiming. It’s clear that Sony put a lot of thought into creating a software experience that truly complements the hardware.

Moreover, the function keys (Fn) add a whole new layer of functions. Once you’ve set up the profiles, you can very conveniently switch between them in-game by holding down the function keys and tapping the assigned buttons. The function keys also let you control things like headset volume, making the overall experience even more seamless and enjoyable.

3 The Modular Design Advantage

The modular design of the DualSense Edge is a stroke of genius. It’s a feature that I never knew I needed until I had it. The stick caps are easily switchable; I just have to yank them out and add new ones. But the modularity goes further than that. You can swap out the faceplate with the switch of a button, an experience much unlike swapping out the faceplate of a DualSense controller. Moreover, once you take off the faceplate, you can remove the entire stick module by releasing a lever.

Being able to swap out the stick modules easily is a major leap. Stick drift has been a significant issue with the standard DualSense controller. It’s frustrating to deal with stick drift, which seems to be almost inevitable with the DualSense. Fixing stick drift on the standard DualSense is no easy feat. However, with the DualSense Edge, you can replace the sticks without touching a screwdriver or sending the entire controller in for repair.

Additionally, after using the DualSense Edge for over a year, I’m pleased to report that the sticks are still in excellent condition. This is impressive, especially compared to my experience with the standard DualSense.

4 Sleek and Functional Charging Case

​​​​​​​The case is more than just a pretty accessory; it’s a practical and essential part of the DualSense Edge package. It’s sleek, stylish, and does an excellent job of protecting the controller from damage. The fact that it also charges the controller is a massive convenience.

The inclusion of a charging lock is a small but thoughtful touch. It prevents the charging cable from accidentally disconnecting, ensuring that my controller is always ready to go. You could say that PlayStation has somewhat compensated for the shorter battery life by making charging more convenient.

5 A Premium Feel

You know you’re holding something special when you pick up the DualSense Edge. The build quality is exceptional, with premium materials and a solid weight that exudes durability. The grips are comfortable and provide excellent support, even during extended gaming sessions. The controller just feels more substantial and refined than the standard DualSense.

The attention to detail is evident in every aspect of the design, with the dotted grip patterns revealing themselves as the PlayStation symbols on a closer look. The overall aesthetic is sleek and modern, with a subtle elegance that sets it apart from other controllers. It’s clear that Sony aimed to create a product that not only performs exceptionally but also looks and feels like a premium accessory.

In the end, the DualSense Edge controller is an investment that serious gamers won’t regret. Every aspect of this controller is designed with the player in mind. While it might carry a premium price tag, the unparalleled control and comfort make it a worthwhile purchase for those seeking the ultimate gaming experience.

Trust me, once you’ve experienced the DualSense Edge, it’s hard to go back to a standard controller.

Key Takeaways

• SSD DRAM caches are high-speed memory buffers between SSDs and PCs using volatile memory.
• SSD DRAM cache enhances data transfer rates by temporarily storing data for quick retrieval.
• To check if an SSD has an SSD DRAM cache, look at manufacturer specifications, product labels, and online reviews.

When buying an SSD, storage capacity and read/write speeds are normally the top priorities. However, there is one hidden stat that is often overlooked: The SSD DRAM cache. But what is this mysterious stat, and how does it affect data transfer rates?

What Is SSD DRAM Cache?

SSD DRAM caches, or DRAM (Dynamic Random Access Memory) buffers, are high-speed memory buffers that act as a conduit between SSDs (Solid State Drives) and PCs. This volatile memory can quickly store and retrieve data but loses its content once the power is off. It’s different from a long-term storage device such as an SSD, which uses NAND Flash technology.

For a better understanding, let’s break down each component:

• SSD: These drives use NAND Flash technology to store data. Unlike traditional HDDs (Hard Disk Drives), they have no moving parts and retrieve data faster.
• DRAM: This volatile memory temporarily stores data for faster processor access. It offers higher speed than non-volatile NAND Flash memory used in SSDs.
• Cache: In computing, a cache is a temporary storage area that holds frequently accessed data for quick retrieval.

How SSD DRAM Cache Affects Data Transfer Rates

Now that we know what an SSD DRAM cache is, let’s see how it affects data transfers. When accessing data, the processor sends a request to the SSD. The SSD then retrieves the data from its NAND Flash memory and temporarily stores it in the DRAM cache. From there, the DRAM buffer receives the data and passes it on to the processor. This process is much faster than retrieving data directly from SSD NAND Flash memory.

To better understand, think of a busy highway with additional lanes. The highway is your SSD, while the extra lanes represent your DRAM cache. When there is heavy traffic (high data transfer rate), the additional lanes (DRAM cache) allow for faster movement of cars (data) compared to a single lane (directly retrieved from NAND Flash memory).

Without an SSD DRAM cache, the processor would have to wait for the NAND Flash memory to retrieve and transfer data. This delay is known as latency, and it slows down data transfers. Additionally, DRAM cache size significantly affects data transfer rates. A larger DRAM cache can store and retrieve more data temporarily, reducing the need for slower NAND Flash memory.

How To Check SSD DRAM Cache Before Buying

So far, we’ve discussed the SSD DRAM cache and its impact on data transfer rates. But how can you tell if your SSD has one? Here are some ways to find out:

• Check Manufacturer Specifications: Check the specifications of the SSD to see if it has a DRAM cache. Most manufacturers list this information in their product descriptions or technical specifications. Look for terms like DRAM cache or DRAM buffer to confirm.
• Read the Product Label: If you’re purchasing an SSD in-store, ask the seller or check the packaging for mention of a DRAM cache. Manufacturers often highlight this feature as it is a significant selling point.
• Online Forums and Reviews: You can also check online forums and reviews for SSD models. Users usually mention and share their experiences in their reviews.

DRAM is an excellent way to get more power from your SSD and speed up transfer times. So, if you regularly share big files, you should strongly consider purchasing an SSD with a good DRAM cache.

Key Takeaways

• Xbox Game Pass has four tiers: Core, Standard, PC, and Ultimate, each offering different benefits.
• Game Pass Core is the cheapest and offers fewer games, online multiplayer, and discounts.
• Ultimate combines PC and console subscriptions and includes Xbox Cloud Gaming.

Xbox Game Pass is Microsoft’s gaming subscription service that gives you access to a library of games. It has several different tiers, allowing you to access the subscription on PC and your Xbox console. Here’s everything you need to know about the Xbox Game Pass.

What Is Xbox Game Pass?

Game Pass gives you access to a library of over 250 games to play for a monthly fee. You can play as many of these games as long as you like until your subscription expires, or the game leaves the library.

However, there are multiple kinds of Xbox Game Pass memberships, and each comes with its own benefits and features.

But overall, the available Xbox Game Pass tiers are as follows:

• Xbox Game Pass Core
• Xbox Game Pass Standard
• Xbox Game Pass for PC
• Xbox Game Pass Ultimate

If you primarily play games on your Xbox console, you can pick between the Core, Standard, and Ultimate tiers. On the other hand, PC gamers can choose between the Xbox Game Pass for PC and Ultimate tiers.

The primary feature of every Xbox Game Pass tier is that you get online multiplayer, access to some or all of the Microsoft game library, and deals and discounts on Xbox titles. Of course, each tier will have its own perks and benefits, so let’s explore them all.

What Is Xbox Game Pass Core?

The Xbox Game Pass Core is the cheapest tier available. This tier replaces Xbox Live Gold and gives you the following benefits:

• Access to over 25 games from the Xbox Game Pass catalog, as listed by Xbox.
• Online multiplayer access to your Xbox console.

The most important feature of Xbox Game Pass Core is that it allows you play online multiplayer games on your console. You do get a smaller selection of titles to enjoy with your subscription, but you also get up to 50% off on select game titles via Deals with Game Pass Core.

Game Pass Core is best for gamers who simply want to access online multiplayer on their console, play specific titles, and are not interested in exploring new games all the time. At the very least, you still get a few games included in the subscription, so you can do some exploring, but the library is small compared to other tiers.

What Is Game Pass Standard?

This tier used to be called Xbox Game Pass for Console and gave you access to more games but no online multiplayer. So, Microsoft replaced it with a new tier called Game Pass Standard. This tier allows you to play the wider Microsoft Game Pass library, but you won’t get day-one access on some titles.

Game Pass Standard isn’t available yet at the time of writing, though—Microsoft will launch this service on September 12, 2024.

If you feel that the Core game library is too small for your liking, you should upgrade to Game Pass Standard instead. This subscription tier will give you access to over 300 titles; a huge jump from the tiny library that Xbox Game Pass Core comes with. So, if you’re interested in looking at various games but really don’t buy into the hype of the latest titles, you can choose this tier instead.

What Is Xbox Game Pass for PC?

This tier, also called PC Game Pass, gives you access to Microsoft’s wider gaming library for your computer. But, more than that, it also offers day-one access to Microsoft’s latest titles, allowing you to enjoy the latest games as soon as they launch at no extra cost.

Besides this, Xbox Games Pass for PC also includes EA Play, allowing you to play EA titles in its library. This makes the Xbox Game Pass for PC a compelling subscription and the main reason why I no longer subscribe to EA Play individually. It also includes benefits for Riot Games if you’re a fan of their titles like Valorant.

If you’re a PC gamer, Xbox Game Pass for PC offers excellent value for the monthly price you pay. You can also get Xbox Game Pass for free if you sign up for Microsoft Rewards and earn enough points for redemption.

What Is Xbox Game Pass Ultimate?

This is the most expensive Xbox Game Pass tier. It combines the benefits of Xbox Game Pass for PC and Game Pass Standard, allowing you to enjoy the subscription on both your PC and console.

Furthermore, this tier opens one more feature not available on any other tier: Xbox Cloud Gaming. Although it’s still in beta, Xbox Cloud Gaming allows you to play Xbox games on tons of devices, including Android phones and iPhones, iPads, MacBooks, smart TVs, and even VR headsets. Check out Xbox’s list of supported devices to see if you can take advantage of it.

Game Pass Ultimate is the best tier for hardcore gamers—those who play on both console and PC and want to have access to their titles on other devices via Cloud Gaming. Furthermore, you get all the features of all the other tiers, so you won’t miss out on anything with Xbox Game Pass Ultimate.

How Much Does Xbox Game Pass Cost?

Of course, each Xbox Game Pass tier will have different prices based on the features they have. So, here’s a comparison of how much you’ll pay for each tier on a monthly basis.

Also, note that only the Xbox Game Pass Core comes with an annual subscription of $74.99. You can only get all the other subscriptions on a monthly basis. While these prices are set, Xbox Game Pass prices will likely increase over time. However, more often than not, Xbox will provide entry offers that allow you to get a month of Game Pass at a discounted price.

Where Is Xbox Game Pass Available?

Xbox Game Pass is generally available in most regions. For instance, regions like the United States, the United Kingdom, and Japan support all aspects of Xbox Game Pass.

And while countless other regions support all the features and tiers of Xbox Game Pass, there are some, like Russia or China, that don’t or come with unique restrictions. Additionally, Cloud Gaming isn’t available in every country and region.

For this reason, when checking if Xbox Game Pass is available in a specific region, you need to check the live list of every supported and unsupported region provided by Xbox. This way, you can directly locate a region and view everything you need in terms of Game Pass compatibility.

How Do I Subscribe to Xbox Game Pass?

Now you know everything you need to about Xbox Game Pass, you might want to start subscribing to the service. Luckily, there are plenty of easy ways to do so.

The best place to buy Xbox Game Pass is through the Xbox Game Pass listing via Xbox. From here, you can select Join Now to choose the specific tier of Game Pass you want and link it to your Microsoft account.

But if you want to make the most of Xbox Game Pass, you should also download the Xbox Game Pass app for your PC via the official Xbox page for PC or smartphone via the official Xbox page for mobile. This way you will be able to stream games to your devices and download Game Pass titles remotely.

How Do I Cancel Xbox Game Pass?

By default, Xbox Game Pass will renew automatically every month. If you want to stop this or cancel your membership entirely, it’s simple. Go to the official Microsoft site, and Sign in. Once you are signed into your Microsoft account, select View all subscriptions > Xbox Game Pass > Manage > Cancel subscription.

There are numerous ways you can cancel Game Pass beyond the Microsoft website. You can even cancel your Xbox Game Pass subscription directly from your Xbox console if you would prefer. But the most direct way would be through Microsoft.

If you have time to play lots of different games, Xbox Game Pass is going to be really worthwhile. Not only do you get access to modern hits, but a wide back catalog of classics as well. So, if you’re a gamer, Xbox Game Pass offers the best value for money subscription you can get to enjoy tons of different titles.

Key Takeaways

• When using a Mac keyboard on Windows, the Command key serves as the Windows key.
• If you switched from a Mac to a Windows PC, you can use the Ctrl key to perform many Command key functions.
• You can use Microsoft PowerToys to reassign modifier keys on a Mac keyboard, placing them where they should be on a Windows keyboard.

Whether you’ve plugged a Mac keyboard into a Windows computer or switched from macOS to Windows, know that some modifier keys function differently across operating systems. Below, we’ll explain what the Command key does on Windows.

Windows vs Mac Keyboard: The Command Key

When you use a Mac keyboard with Windows and press the Command or CMD key, you are essentially pressing the Windows Key. The Windows key’s primary function is to open the Start menu and perform several shortcuts that help you navigate Windows when pressed with other keys.

For instance, the following popular Windows key shortcuts will work when you press the Command key on Windows:

On the other hand, if you’re a Mac user who switched to Windows, it helps to think about what the Command key does on a Mac. Since it’s a modifier key used for shortcuts like copying, cutting, pasting, selecting, undoing, and saving, the closest Windows equivalent is the Ctrl key.

Although not all shortcuts are similar, the most widely used ones for text editing, navigation, and window management will work the same. Here’s a quick comparison:

Although the Mac keyboard also has a Control key, it often serves as a way to right-click things. But it is the same as pressing the Ctrl key if you’re using a Mac keyboard on a Windows computer.

How to Reassign Keys on Windows

Reassigning keys can help if, for example, you want to swap the left Command and Option keys on a Mac keyboard to resemble the placement of the Windows and Alt keys on a Windows keyboard.

To do that, you will need to install Microsoft PowerToys on your Windows PC. Next, open PowerToys and select Keyboard Manager from the left sidebar. Then, toggle on Keyboard Manager on the right and click Remap a Key.

In the Remap Keys window, click the plus (+) button below the Select heading.

On the next screen, click Select on the left side. When you get a pop-up, press the key you want to remap and click OK.

Afterward, click the Select button below the To Send heading on the right. Once the pop-up appears, press the key you want to change and click OK. Back in the Remap Keys window, click the OK button in the top right to accept the changes.

If you want to return the keys to normal, open the Remap Keys window again, click the Trash icon next to the remapped keys you want to delete, and then click OK.

Luckily, every other key outside the Command, Option, and Control keys functions like their Windows keyboard counterparts. If things get confusing, you can always reassign the keys to suit your preferences and master the Mac keys on Windows.

Key Takeaways

• The developer beta builds of iOS 18.1 and macOS 15.1 include some Apple Intelligence features.
• Apple Intelligence is currently limited to US users, but you can change your device’s region to access it from anywhere.
• Apple requires you to join a waitlist for Apple Intelligence, but the wait times aren’t long as of this writing.

Apple Intelligence wasn’t part of the initial iOS 18 and macOS Sequoia beta releases, but Apple has finally rolled it out to compatible devices. Although it won’t be available to the public until fall 2024, we’ll show you how to access it on your Apple device right now.

Apple Intelligence Is Included With iOS 18.1 and macOS 15.1 Betas

While we’re still awaiting the public release of iOS 18 later in 2024, Apple has already begun rolling out developer beta builds of iOS 18.1, iPadOS 18.1, and macOS Sequoia 15.1 with Apple Intelligence baked in.

If you haven’t already, you first need to install the iOS/iPadOS 18 beta on your iPhone or iPad (or the macOS Sequoia beta on your Mac). Afterward, you need to select the iOS 18.1 or macOS Sequoia 15.1 beta channel in the Software Update menu and update your device again.

You’ll only see the iOS/iPadOS 18.1 or macOS 15.1 update on devices that support Apple Intelligence. So, at least an iPhone 15 Pro or an iPad or Mac with the M1 chip or later is required to be eligible for this beta channel.

Even if your device supports Apple Intelligence, you need to meet a couple more requirements before you can try Apple’s AI features early. For starters, Apple Intelligence is currently limited to users in the United States.

However, if you reside elsewhere, you can change your iPhone’s region to the United States by heading to Settings > General > Language & Region. You can also do the same on a Mac from System Settings. Additionally, you need to set Siri’s language and device language to English (US).

Joining the Waitlist for Apple Intelligence

Doing all the above is still not enough to get Apple Intelligence on your compatible iPhone, iPad, or Mac. You need to join the waitlist by heading to Settings > Apple Intelligence & Siri and tapping Join the Apple Intelligence Waitlist option at the top. You can do the same from the System Settings app on your Mac.

Once you join the waitlist, you just need to wait a few hours for Apple to let you in and download support for the on-device processing of Apple Intelligence models. I only had to wait a little over an hour since I was early, but the wait times may become longer as more users sign up.

Once you’re in, you should see an Apple Intelligence toggle in the same menu. Toggle it on to start using AI features on your Apple device. You’ll know Apple Intelligence is active when you invoke Siri and see its new interface. Once you disable It, Siri will revert to the old UI.

After checking out Apple Intelligence for a bit, I quickly realized that several AI features Apple announced at WWDC 2024 are still missing, like Image Playground, Genmoji, ChatGPT integration, and more.

On the bright side, iOS/iPadOS 18.1 beta gives you access to Writing Tools, improved Siri, call recording with transcription, natural language search in the Photos app, Smart Reply in Apple Mail, and Reduce Interruptions Focus mode. I assume Apple is saving the rest of the Apple Intelligence features for future updates.

Key Takeaways

• Pro-style controllers offer customization, but most games don’t require the extra buttons they provide.
• The adjustability of pro-style controllers may not be worth the steep price difference from standard gamepads.
• Performance benefits of pro-style controllers are significant for serious competitive gamers, but not casual or solo gamers.

Every gaming console comes bundled with a standard controller so that you can start gaming right out of the box. However, you’ll now find pro-style controllers available as a standalone purchase. These get you tons of cool new features, but there’s a good chance you’re perfectly fine without them.

Here’s why you probably don’t need to invest in a pro-style game controller like the DualSense Edge or Elite Series 2 and can stick with your basic gamepad.

What Is A Pro-Style Controller?

A pro-style controller is a controller that comes with additional buttons, features, and customization options not found on your standard gamepad. For example, the Xbox Elite Series 2 lets you adjust the actuation depth of its triggers, swap out its analog sticks, and remap buttons located on its back.

None of this can be found on the Xbox Core Wireless controller, making the Elite Series 2 and other pro-style controllers popular with competitive gamers who love customization options.

Some pro controllers, like the DualSense Edge, are first-party offerings. But there are also a variety of third-party brands, like SCUF and Razer, that offer pro controllers.

When choosing the best controller for your gaming experience, you might want to consider extra paddles and adjustable triggers. But for most gamers, a standard controller will do.

Additional Buttons Aren’t Needed For Most Games

While there’s no denying that pro-style gamepads are definitively better than their standard counterparts, you’ll find that most games don’t require the extra buttons they offer. The back buttons found on pro-style controllers are incredibly useful for accessibility purposes, but all games today are designed with the standard controller in mind.

That means you won’t lose out on functionality by having the standard controller, as no game on the market requires extra inputs that are unavailable on the DualSense, Xbox Core Controller, or Nintendo Joy-Con. While it might be nice to have the extra back buttons, most gamers will find they’re not a necessity.

Adjustable Components Aren’t Worth The Price

Another big selling point of pro-style controllers is their adjustability. From stick sensitivity to trigger actuation depth, there are a handful of unique ways to modify their performance. But once again, most gamers won’t find these options to be worth the price of admission.

The Elite Series 2 and DualSense Edge retail for $180 and $200 respectively. The Xbox Core Wireless Controller and DualSense retail for $60 and $70 respectively. That’s a serious gap in pricing. You could essentially buy two new games for the price difference between the standard and pro-style controllers, which is a steep price to pay for a few customization options and back buttons.

More importantly, many titles let you adjust sensitivity options in-game, giving you more than enough flexibility for most situations with just a standard gamepad.

Only Serious Gamers Will Reap the Performance Boost Benefits

You’ll find heaps of cool tech packed into pro-style controllers, but just because they’re more powerful than standard controllers doesn’t mean your performance will see a radical improvement. If you’re trying to become a professional gamer or want to climb the leaderboards in Call of Duty, then buying a pro-style controller is a wise investment.

But if you’re playing single-player RPGs, platformers, or action games, the potential performance boost offered by a pro-style controller isn’t nearly as dramatic. You might notice slight improvements in your skills when playing these titles, but pro-style controllers are largely designed for highly competitive environments. So for a solo game night with Stardew Valley or Baldur’s Gate 3, there’s little reason to splurge on a pro controller.

You’ll Save Money With A Well-Reviewed Standard Controller

If you’re looking for a great controller that won’t break the bank, there are plenty of critically acclaimed standard controllers to choose from. The DualSense and Xbox Core Wireless Controller are favorites among reviewers, as they’re designed by Sony and Microsoft, offer responsive buttons, and are built to last years before running into issues.

In fact, we named the Xbox Core Wireless Controller the best Xbox controller, thanks to its ideal combination of pricing and performance — making it a good choice for nearly every gamer.

Third-Party Alternatives Exist

Not thrilled with the default controllers offered by Xbox, Nintendo, and Sony? Then be sure to check out the wealth of third-party alternatives on the market.

Many of these straddle the line between standard and pro gamepads, offering additional buttons and functionality beyond what’s found on your DualSense or Xbox Core controller. For example, the 8BitDo Ultimate 3-Mode Controller for Xbox comes with its own charging dock, uses upgraded Hall Effect sticks to eliminate drift, and is equipped with two back paddles for added functionality.

On Switch, you’ll find options like the PowerA Enhanced for $60 and the Nitro Deck for $50. These are nice alternatives to your standard Joy-Con, as the first is designed as a more traditional gamepad, while the latter is built specifically for handheld play.

Best of all, these are often available for a fraction of the price of pro-style controllers, giving you a nice performance boost without needing to drop $200 on a gamepad designed for professionals. The 8BitDo mentioned above is only $70, putting it in line with standard gamepads while giving you cool features typically reserved for pro-style controllers.

At the end of the day, pro-style controllers are exactly what they sound like — controllers built for professional play. If you’re trying to go pro or are extremely dedicated to honing your skills, something like the Elite Series 2 or DualSense Edge might make sense for your game room. Pro-style controllers can also be useful for accessibility purposes, as their back buttons and customization options might make them more comfortable to use than a standard controller.

Key Takeaways

• Consider running SFC and CHKDSK scans to repair issues caused by damaged system files or bad sectors on the external drive.
• Temporarily disabling your antivirus program and assigning a new letter to the external drive can also help resolve the error.
• If the 0x80070570 error persists after trying all these steps, you may need to format the affected drive.

Are you encountering the frustrating “File or directory is corrupted and unreadable” error (0x80070570) on Windows? This error often appears when you try to access, copy, or delete files on your external hard drive. We’ll help you resolve it with the following tips.

1. Repair System Files With an SFC Scan

Damaged or missing system files can sometimes trigger the “file or directory is corrupted and unreadable” error on Windows. System File Checker (SFC) is a handy command-line tool that can check for and repair any problematic system files that might be causing file operation issues.

To run the System File Checker scan, follow these steps:

1. Press Win + S to open the search menu.
2. Type cmd in the box and select Run as administrator.
3. Type sfc /scannow and hit Enter.

Wait for the scan to complete, and then restart your PC. After that, check if the error appears again.

Another thing you can do is scan the external drive with the CHKDSK tool. If the error is because of a bad sector or directory error within the drive, this tool will help fix it.

Our guide to running CHKDSK on Windows explains how to initiate a Check Disk scan. To run the scan, you’ll need to connect the external drive to your PC and specify its drive letter within the command. For example, a CHKDSK command for scanning an external D: drive would be:

chkdsk d: /f /r 

Windows will scan the drive for bad sectors, directory errors, or lost clusters. Depending on the drive’s read speed and data size, this might take a while.

3. Try Moving Files to a Different Location

Does the 0x80070570 error code only appear when you’re trying to open a specific file? If so, you can try moving to the internal drive and see if that helps.

You can do that by right-clicking the affected file and selecting either Cut or Copy. Then, head to a folder on your PC’s internal drive, right-click again, and select Paste. Following this, you should be able to open the file without any errors.

4. Check Your Computer for Malware and Disable Antivirus

If you’ve noticed other problems on your computer, not just the inability to access external hard drives, your PC may have malware. You can use your third-party antivirus program or the built-in Windows Security tool to check this. To do so, use these steps:

1. Open the Windows Security app using the search menu.
2. Go to the Virus & threat protection tab.
3. Click Scan options, select Full scan, and hit the Scan now button.

Once the scan is complete, restart your computer and try to access the external hard drive.

There’s also a chance that your PC’s antivirus shield is hindering the file operation and causing the error 0x80070570. This could happen if your antivirus software wrongly flags the files you’re trying to transfer between drives as suspicious. Try temporarily disabling Microsoft Defender before performing the file operation and see if that works.

If you have a third-party antivirus tool on your PC, right-click its icon in the system tray and select the option to disable or turn off shield protection.

5. Set a New Drive Letter

It’s possible that the “file or directory is corrupted and unreadable” error is related to a drive letter conflict with another drive or a system glitch. If so, assigning a new letter to your external drive should help. Here’s how to do it:

1. Press Win + R to open the Run dialog.
2. Type diskmgmt.msc in the box and click OK.
3. Right-click the external drive in the Disk Management window and select Change Drive Letter and Paths.
4. Select the drive letter and click the Change button.
5. In the Change Drive Letter or Path window, check the Assign the following drive letter option and choose a new letter from the dropdown menu. Then, click OK.

Once your external drive has a new letter, you should be able to open it.

Windows may have trouble accessing certain files or folders due to memory-related issues. To address this, use the Windows Memory Diagnostic tool. Since this requires a system restart, be sure to save all your work and close any running apps beforehand.

The easiest way to launch the tool is to input Windows Memory Diagnostic in the Start menu search bar and select the Best match. Then, select Restart now and check for problems.

7. Perform a Startup Repair

If the Windows Memory Diagnostic tool doesn’t help, Startup Repair is another built-in tool you can use to fix the corrupted and unreadable file error on Windows.

To run the Startup Repair tool, press Win + I to launch Settings and go to Update & security > Recovery > Restart now. Then, select Troubleshoot > Advanced options and click the Startup Repair option.

Windows will then search for and repair all possible errors and restart after that. Once the process is complete, you should be able to access your files again.

8. Format the External Drive

If none of the above troubleshooting steps helped, formatting the affected external drive may be your only option. Doing so will wipe all data on the drive, so make sure you back up or recover any important data from the external drive before proceeding.

You can format an external drive with the Windows Disk Management utility or in File Explorer. Connect the drive to your PC, and then follow the steps in our guide on formatting a USB drive to do this within File Explorer.

Running into errors is always frustrating, especially when they prevent you from accessing crucial files. Fortunately, fixing the “file or directory is corrupted and unreadable” error is usually manageable with the solutions outlined above. However, if nothing works and you encounter similar errors on other computers, the drive might be failing, and you should purchase a new one.

As a Mac user for over half a decade, I’ve gotten used to a handful of apps to help me with various tasks. Barring the obvious apps like web browsers and password managers, these are the ones I install as soon as possible on a new Mac.

1 1. Raycast

Raycast is my favorite Mac app on the list. In fact, it’s one of the best Spotlight search alternatives for your Mac; it’s not only fast but also offers a slew of features and customizability options to improve your productivity on the Mac.

I use Raycast on my Mac every day for performing calculations (including unit conversions), checking clipboard history, searching for files (and performing various actions on the results directly), looking up things on the web, quickly snapping app windows on the screen, typing long repetitive text with snippets, and many more.

Besides, I have several app extensions installed on Raycast that allow me to do specific things without going into their apps. For example, I have Google Translate to help me translate text quickly, TinyPNG to compress images on the go, and Search Browser Bookmarks to search for bookmarks.

Last but not least, Raycast also has AI, thanks to ChatGPT. It’s available in Raycast Pro, and you can use it to get answers to all sorts of questions, get help with writing code, and automate repetitive tasks, among other things.

Download:Raycast (Free, premium version available)

2 2. Hyperkey

Hyperkey is a macOS app that offers two functions. First, it lets you remap the Caps Lock key on your keyboard to another key. This is useful if you aren’t a fan of Caps Lock and want to remap it to another key that’s either broken or not easily accessible on the keyboard.

Second, it gives you a hyper key, which is essentially a combination of different modifier keys: Command, Control, Option, and Shift (optional). You can then use this hyper key to create unique keyboard shortcuts for various apps on your Mac without worrying about them interfering with existing ones.

I use Hyperkey on my Mac to remap the Caps Lock key to the hyper key. Then, I’ve set up multiple keyboard shortcuts with this hyper key for various actions like launching apps, running shortcuts (from the Shortcuts app), executing Finder Quick Actions, and more. Plus, I’ve also set up unique hotkeys for various Raycast actions.

Download:Hyperkey (Free)

3 3. LANDrop

LANDrop is a cross-platform app for transferring files between devices over LAN. I use it every day to wirelessly move files between my Mac and Android phone.

What I like the most about LANDrop is that it doesn’t require any setup. The app takes care of everything as long as your devices are connected to the same Wi-Fi network. And when you’re outside, you can set up a personal hotspot and share files between devices over it.

I enjoy using LANDrop because it doesn’t compress photos and videos during transfers. As such, you have the convenience of wireless sharing without worrying about losing the quality of your photos and videos.

Download:LANDrop (Free)

4 4. OpenMTP

LANDrop is great for wirelessly transferring files between my Mac and Android phone. However, there are times when I need to move several large files between my devices. This is when I switch to the OpenMTP app, which lets me transfer multiple files (larger than 4GB) in one go.

OpenMTP is a free and open-source app I use to transfer files between my Mac and Android devices. It’s one of the best alternatives to Google’s Android File Transfer app, which is known to be quite buggy, unreliable, and slow. The app has a clean interface, is super smooth, and easy to use. It also offers drag-and-drop support for easily moving files between your devices.

Download:OpenMTP (Free)

5 5. Shottr

Shottr is my favorite Mac screenshot tool. As someone whose work requires taking a lot of screenshots, I like Shottr because it’s fast and has built-in annotation tools, so I don’t need another program to annotate and edit my screenshots.

One of my favorite Shottr features is the ability to set up the default window background for screenshots. This ensures my screenshots look consistent throughout. You can also use Shottr to take scrolling screenshots and delayed screenshots, which I find beneficial.

Moving to annotation and editing, Shottr lets you write text or draw a few different shapes and add arrows to your screenshots. It even has blur and erase tools to help you remove sensitive information from screenshots.

Download:Shottr (Free, premium version available)

6 6. Amphetamine

Amphetamine is my go-to app for keeping my MacBook awake in clamshell mode. It’s pretty straightforward and requires you to toggle a simple switch to enable it. Alternatively, there’s support for triggers, which lets you automatically start a keep-awake session until the specified task runs on your MacBook.

For example, I’ve set up a trigger that automatically starts an Amphetamine session when I plug my MacBook into an external display. This lets me keep my MacBook’s lid closed when hooked onto my external display, even when it’s not on charge.

If you use your MacBook hooked to an external display, Amphetamine is a must-have Mac app that can prolong your battery’s lifespan.

Download:Amphetamine (Free)

7 7. Dropover

Dropover is a very useful Mac app with a simple idea: make moving files between folders easy. Since I need to move lots of files between different folders on my Mac multiple times a day, I use Dropover to help me do it efficiently.

Dropover gives you a shelf where you can temporarily hold all the files you want to move from different source folders and then drop them off to their destination folder. You can access this shelf anywhere by selecting an item and simply shaking the cursor, after which it’s a simple drag-and-drop procedure.

The app preserves up to ten of your previous shelves, in case you need them. You can also save your shelves in the cloud and share them with someone using a public link.

Dropover doesn’t just support files; it works with folders, URLs, and text snippets too. Other notable Dropover features include clipboard sharing, custom scripts, and pinned shelves.

Download:Dropover (Free, premium version available)

8 8. CheatSheet

CheatSheet is a must-have Mac app for anyone who loves using keyboard shortcuts. As the name implies, CheatSheet gives you a cheat sheet of all the Mac keyboard shortcuts supported in an app, so you don’t have to look them up online.

Accessing the cheat sheet is easy. Simply press and hold the Command key in the app whose shortcuts you want to view, and you’ll see an overlay screen with all its shortcuts. You can then press the other key(s) of a shortcut combination to trigger the corresponding action on that app.

Download:CheatSheet (Free)

9 9. Velja

Velja is a browser and app picker that can make your life easier. Simply put, the app lets you choose which browser (and even browser profile) or app to open a link in, so you aren’t stuck with it open in your Mac’s default web browser.

For example, if you prefer to open Google Sheets links in Safari but don’t want to set the default browser to Safari, you can set up a rule in Velja. That way, whenever you click a Google Sheets link, Velja will open it in Safari. Similarly, if you have the Zoom app on your Mac, you can set Velja to open any Zoom link you click on directly in the native app.

Alternatively, you can configure Velja to show a list of your favorite browsers when you click a link. You can then pick a browser from the list to open that link based on your preference.

Download:Velja (Free)

TinkerTool is an app that lets you get more out of your Mac by enabling or modifying system preferences that are otherwise missing or not easily accessible in the System Settings app. The app doesn’t change any component of the operating system, and any changes you make are reversible.

TinkerTool shows hidden preferences for several system components and apps. Simply pick a category from the left sidebar and enable or disable the ones you want. In some cases, you may need to relaunch apps to apply the changes.

Some of my favorite tweaks include Add Quit item in Finder menu, Disable delay when showing hidden Dock, Disable fade-in effect when opening from Launchpad, and Prefer expanded Save dialogs when using new applications in General.

Download:TinkerTool (Free)

These are all the apps I can’t start using a new Mac without. While some apps give me additional functionality, others help me do things on my Mac more efficiently and, in turn, boost my productivity.

Key Takeaways

• Check your camera format to capture professional headshots on smartphones—make sure it’s on the highest quality and toggle RAW on.
• Utilize natural lighting indoors or outdoors for professional headshots and dress for success.
• Create contrast between the subject and background, avoid straight-on shots, and use burst mode for better timing.

Professional headshots don’t need to be shot in a photography studio by a professional photographer. With a smartphone and a few extra tips, you can easily get professional-looking headshots that land you the job.

Check Your Camera Format

Most phones’ default camera format will be standard quality, which is usually fine. For professional-looking headshots, you need high quality from the moment the shutter clicks.

On an iPhone, head to Settings > Camera > Formats. From here there are two options for quality: Camera Capture and Photo Capture. Select High Efficiency for the best quality, and toggle on Apple ProRAW for the ability to capture in RAW format.

Shooting in RAW allows for the most details and colors to be captured, improving the editing process later on. Standard settings may lack color depth and be more pixelated. Once Apple ProRAW is toggled on, from the iPhone camera, toggle RAW on or off per photo.

If you have an Android, you can also shoot and edit RAW images using a Samsung Galaxy S23 and other models.

Use a Tripod or Ask Someone to Take Your Photo

Although my go-to when taking smartphone photos of myself is a selfie, having an arm sneaking from the edge of the frame won’t result in a professional headshot, no matter how good my face looks.

Instead, you should use a phone tripod or even better, a trusted friend—especially one with a good eye for photography. Having another person taking your photo will be faster, more accurate, and provide live feedback on how to improve your headshot.

Utilize Natural Lighting

Lighting can be difficult to get right, especially for a professional headshot. If you’re not in a well-lit photography studio, natural lighting should be your aim. You can still take your headshot indoors with natural lighting by utilizing large windows at the correct time of day. If indoors isn’t an option, then taking your headshot photos outside is another choice.

Consider the time of day if you’re relying on natural lighting. Shadows can be a menace when the sun is too high and bright, while golden hour’s hues may be too romantic for your professional shots.

If you have the time and patience, take photos throughout the day and test different places that utilize the sun—an overcast day provides flat, natural light for your shots, too.

Consider Your Background

Whether you’re taking your headshot photos indoors or outside, your background plays a huge part in how professionally you’ll come across.

Consider setting up a space similar to the industry your headshot is used for—an office worker could take headshots in a well-lit office, for example, using office props subtly in the photos.

For a neutral background indoors or outdoors, avoid clutter and too many textures: an all-encompassing background such as a wall works well. Alternatively, using an out-of-focus natural background can work well, too.

As you’re the subject, keep the background neutral, clear, and less focused than you are.

Dress For Success

For professional headshots, even taken on your smartphone, dress for the job you want. If you have the time, you should switch outfits or elements of your clothing and accessories.

Make sure all your clothes have been ironed and are free of fluff or hair. Don’t dress in an unprofessional theme, such as all in pink or clashing colors and textures.

You can always inject your personality into your outfit with fun earrings, colorful eyeglasses, a fun tie and pocket square, or a pop of your favorite color. Professional headshots don’t have to suck away your personality.

Create Contrast Between You and the Scene

Encompassing the previous two points, you and your photographer should ensure there’s a high contrast between you as the headshot subject and whatever you’ve chosen for your background.

Setting your camera to RAW will also help with contrast when it comes to editing your headshots, as you’ll have more control over colors.

High contrast doesn’t mean a garish difference—just enough that you don’t fade into the background, shadows, or colors in any way. For example, an indoor office photo may have a setting of light and neutral whites or grays, so if you wear a pop of color—such as a burgundy blazer—and have dark hair, you’ll contrast enough against the scene to stand out naturally.

Don’t Stand Straight On

Unlike taking passport photos with a smartphone, a professional headshot doesn’t need you to face the camera straight on without smiling. In fact, you should experiment with different angles and facial expressions for your headshot.

Standing or sitting at a slight angle adds some dimension to your headshot. Although the smartphone should be held level to where your head is, along with being parallel with any vertical and horizontal lines in your photo—such as corners of internal walls or doorframes, you, the subject, do not need to be so strictly lined up.

Despite a headshot being traditionally just your head and upper torso, depending on the purpose of your headshot or your intended professional role, you can experiment with incorporating the entire length of your body into the frame.

From this, you can then add shape and dimension to your limbs, so you should consider arm, hand, leg, and foot placement too.

Keep the Default Focus and Zoom Settings

Most smartphones offer wide angle as well as macro zooms, and both have their uses. For a professional headshot, though, I’d recommend keeping your camera’s default focal settings.

Wide angle, named on phone cameras as 0.5x zoom, warps much of the subject as well as the background, giving unprofessional results. Great for taking photos at a nightclub or party, but not for promoting your LinkedIn profile.

You also shouldn’t use Portrait Mode. This artificial method of creating harsh depth-of-field can look tacky and overdone. Avoid using any zoom on your smartphone—if you need to get closer, zoom with your feet and move the tripod or your photographer closer to you instead. The background will naturally blur, creating a natural depth of field and keeping you in focus.

Use Burst Mode

Even in a prepared headshot photoshoot, it can be difficult to time your blinking or the perfect smile. Using burst mode on a smartphone is a great way to capture missed moments.

Burst mode allows you to capture multiple images within seconds, meaning if you’re the type of person who usually blinks at the microsecond the shutter closes, this offers insurance against that.

Don’t Over-Edit

While there are an infinite number of ways to edit your smartphone photos, whether on your phone or through an app, or even transferring them to a computer to use desktop software, for professional results on your headshot, you want to keep the editing light. Both Lightroom Mobile and Snapseed are great options for easy on-the-go editing, if you require it.

If you’ve used natural lighting, set up good composition and contrast, and have taken a multitude of images for all purposes, the photos should already look fantastic.

Shooting in RAW allows for subtle editing to enhance details or correct color balance. A professional headshot is not the place to apply filters of any kind—keep those for your Instagram feed.

Use AI as a Last Resort

AI can offer a lot for your smartphone photography and specifically for professional headshots. If you’re a desktop photo editor, your photos may benefit from Retouch4Me’s subtle AI editing software.

If you struggle to take headshots you’re happy with, there may be a variety of reasons such as lack of a suitable setting or background, not owning the right wardrobe options, or simply having a bad hair day. But there are plenty of AI headshot generators you could use. Fotor, an affordable AI tool, offers an AI headshot generator if your photos don’t come out as well as you’d have liked.

Given their small size, misplacing AirPods is almost inevitable. If you tend to put your AirPods in your pocket or find one bud looser in your ears than the other, you have a higher chance of losing one AirPod. Here are the options you have in such a situation.

1 Locate Your Lost AirPod via Find My

The first (and probably the best) shot you have at finding your lost AirPod is to attempt to locate it using Apple’s Find My app. To locate your lost AirPod using the Find My app, here’s what you need to do:

1. Open the Find My app on your iPhone, iPad, or Mac.
2. Head to the Devices tab. Here, you can see all your Apple devices that use the same Apple account and have Find My enabled.
3. Select your AirPods from the list. Then, simply select the bud you’ve misplaced.

You’ll see a list of options to help you locate your lost AirPods, such as playing a sound or getting directions. You can also activate Apple’s Lost Mode from the same menu. This way, you’ll be notified when someone finds your AirPods and the finder will be able to see your contact details.

You can only use Find My to locate your lost AirPod if you had Find My enabled on a paired iPhone, iPad, or Mac prior to misplacing it. If not, you’ll need to consider one of the options below.

2 Opt for a Replacement

If Find My wasn’t enabled on a paired Apple device and you couldn’t locate your lost AirPod by retracing your steps, your next best option is to replace your lost AirPod. According to Apple’s Get an Estimate tool, if you have the first, second, or third-gen AirPods, a replacement AirPod will cost you around $69.

For the first or second-generation AirPods Pro, you can expect to pay around $89 for a replacement.

The above pricing is applicable even if you paid for an AppleCare+ extended warranty plan when you purchased your AirPods.

3 Get New AirPods Instead

Purchasing new AirPods is usually a much better option than spending $69 or $89 on a replacement bud. If you’ve been using your AirPods for a few years and own an older model (like the first-gen AirPods or AirPods Pro), it may be time to start fresh and upgrade to a newer model anyway. Newer models often feature improvements like better active noise cancellation (ANC), battery life, and more.

While getting new AirPods will cost you much more than the price of one replacement AirPod, the new features ultimately make the investment worthwhile. If you look around a bit, you’ll find AirPods on sale on Amazon or stores like Best Buy, especially during the holiday season or sales events like Prime Day.

Key Takeaways

• You can delete individual messages and entire conversations or set automatic deletion for the Messages app on your Mac.
• Remember that deletion is permanent and might affect synced devices, so back up your Mac first.
• Disable “Messages in iCloud” to delete messages and texts from your Mac but not your iPhone.

You have multiple options if you’re looking to clean up the Messages app on your Mac. You can delete messages individually, clear entire conversations, or turn on automatic deletion. We’ll walk you through the steps for all of them.

Deleting Messages on Your Mac

There are a few options for deleting messages on your Mac. First, you can delete a single message—perhaps it contains credit card details or some other sensitive information. Second, you can select and delete multiple messages within a conversation without clearing the whole thing. Either way, we’ll show you the best and quickest way to get it done.

Deleting messages on your Mac will also delete them on your synced iPhone and iPad (unless you disable Messages in iCloud first). This action is permanent and irreversible, so you should only do it if you’re absolutely sure you want to. We strongly advise you to
back up your Mac
first in case you delete something important.

To delete a single message, open a conversation in the Messages app, Control-click the text bubble you wish to delete, and choose Delete from the context menu.

To delete multiple messages, hold Command on your keyboard, select the messages you want to delete, and press the Delete key. You’ll see a prompt confirming that you want to delete it from all your devices; click Delete if you’re okay with that.

If you want to remove the messages only from your Mac but not your iPhone (or other Apple devices), you’ll have to disable it in the Messages settings window:

1. With the Messages app open, mouse up to the menu bar and click Messages.
2. Click Settings in the resulting menu and select the iMessage tab.
3. Toggle off the Enable Messages in iCloud box.
4. Choose Disable This Device.

If you wish to
unsend a message on a Mac
instead, you must delete it within 15 minutes of sending it. Otherwise, deletion will only be on your end, and the recipient will still have a copy of the messages.

Clearing an Entire iMessage Conversation

To delete an entire conversation, open the Messages app and look for the conversation you want to delete on the left sidebar. You can either scroll through your conversations manually or click the Search field at the top of the list and type in a contact’s name.

The,n you can continue with any of these options:

• Use your two fingers to swipe left on the conversation and click Delete.
• Control-click on the conversation and select Delete Conversation from the popup window.
• Select the conversation, then click Conversation in the menu bar and choose Delete Conversation.

Deleting iMessage Attachments on Your Mac

The other half of deleting iMessages is also deleting the attachments that came with the messages. You can do that in Finder by following these instructions:

1. Launch a Finder window, then click Go in the menu bar and select Go to Folder.
2. Copy and paste this into the input box:

   ~/Library/Messages/Attachments

3. Drag the contents to the trash. If you don’t want to delete all the attachments, you can browse the folders and delete the attachments individually.

You can also open your Mac’s Settings app, go to General > Storage, and click the Info (i) icon. From there, you can see a user-friendly breakdown of all the attachments saved by the Messages app.

Select what you want (hold Command for multiple), and click Delete in the bottom-right corner to remove them. You can also preview what exactly it is by hitting space bar on your keyboard.

Setting Your Mac to Automatically Delete Messages

If you’re tired of manually deleting old messages and conversations on your Mac, you can set the Messages app to automatically delete messages after a specific period. Follow these steps:

1. Launch the Messages app.
2. From the menu bar, head to Messages > Settings.
3. Select the General tab.
4. Click the dropdown menu next to Keep messages and choose how long you want to keep your messages.

Now, your Mac will only store messages for the duration you set, and you won’t need to manually delete them.

You can quickly delete individual texts or entire iMessage threads on your Mac using any of the methods we discussed. But remember that deleted messages will also disappear from your other devices if you’ve enabled iCloud for the Messages app. So, be careful while tidying up the Messages app, and make sure you have a backup just in case you accidentally delete something valuable.

Have you ever been using an app when a notification pops up asking you to grant location permission? You might need the location to get directions or find nearby places.

But what about those times when you’re not sure why the app needs your location? You start to wonder—who’s getting that info and what they’re doing with it? Is it safe to hit the “allow” button?

Is Granting a Website or App Location Permission Safe?

Whether it’s safe to share your location isn’t a hard yes or no. It can be fine, but it really depends on who’s asking and what they plan to do with it. It’s kind of like handing out your home address—you probably wouldn’t give it to a random stranger, but you would share it with a delivery person bringing you a late-night pizza, right?

Apps and websites often want location access to get info that’s more specific than just your general area from your IP address. This is especially true for devices with GPS that can pinpoint where you are within a few hundred feet. But all that detailed location data stays private on your device. If someone wants it, they have to ask permission first. That’s why your device will prompt you before sharing your exact location with an app or site.

The main perk of allowing location access is how helpful and convenient it can be. Take navigation apps like Google Maps, for example—without location permission, getting directions would be back to the Stone Age of manually typing in your starting point every single time. You’ll also appreciate granting location permission to weather apps that give you real-time updates based on where you are. That sort of precise information is super useful when you’re deciding whether to bring an umbrella or sunglasses with you that day.

Beyond navigation and weather, location data enables rideshare apps like Uber to know where you’re at to match you with nearby drivers. Social media apps can suggest nearby locations or events to check out or make tagging your posts much easier. Some apps, like your email or financial apps, even use it to boost your security—if they notice unusual activity based on your location, they’ll know something might be up and alert you.

But When Isn’t It Safe to Grant Location Permissions?

Sharing your location with apps and sites can be handy in most cases, but you have to be careful who you trust with that information. Where you are and where you go is actually pretty private business. It makes sense that one of the reasons why companies collect your data, and especially location, is to know where you are so they can show local ads. But really, just using your general location from your internet connection should be enough for that. They shouldn’t need your permission to see exactly where you are.

So, when should you think twice about letting a website or app see where you are?

A big red flag is when they ask for it but really don’t need to know. For example, if a basic calculator or document viewer suddenly wants your location—that’s weird! Those apps can do their job just fine without tracking where you are. That sort of request should make you think something fishy is probably going on, or they just want to collect unnecessary data on you. These shady apps and sites may log your entire location history if you allow them and build up a really detailed picture of everywhere you go daily. In the wrong hands, all that info could be used for stalking, identity theft, or other similar nefarious activities.

Another thing to watch out for is giving location access to apps from untrustworthy places. If you download an app from a third-party app store instead of an official one, it’s more likely to be sketchy. The official stores do a better job screening apps, so those that harvest your data or have viruses are less likely to slip through.

Also, keep an eye out if an app wants constant access to your spot. Most modern devices let you control when an app can access your location. You can set it to Allowonly while using the app (or similar) instead of Allow all the time (or similar), which is a great middle ground. Not only does it prevent nonstop tracking from aggressively draining your battery, but your location will stay private unless you’re actively using that app.

On a final note, if you allow apps or websites to use your data or your current location, you’re subject to their terms, privacy policies, and practices. You should review these to understand how they use your location and other information.

Key Takeaways

• The easiest way to type emojis on your Mac is by using the built-in emoji picker.
• If you want to type emojis like you would on Discord or Slack in any app, you can use a third-party app like Rocket.
• For a vast library of emojis, check out Emojipedia, which has nearly every emoji in existence.

Entering emojis on a Mac isn’t as straightforward as on your iPhone since the physical keyboard doesn’t have a dedicated emoji key. But it’s still pretty easy once you know what to do. And you have multiple options. So, let’s take a look.

1. Use the Built-In Emoji Picker

If you’ve been a longtime Mac user, you may know about the built-in emoji picker. When your cursor is active in a text field, just press and hold the Function (Fn)/Globe key, which will bring up the emoji picker, where you can select and type in any emoji of your choice.

All the emojis are sorted into categories, and you’ll find your frequently used section at the top. You can expand this section by clicking the icon at the top-right of the pop-up to view more categories and different symbols. This is the easiest method to insert and use emojis across multiple apps on your Mac.

If you’ve reassigned the Function (Fn)/Globe key to a different action, you can still open the emoji picker using the Cmd + Ctrl + Space keyboard shortcut.

To remap the Function (Fn)/Globe key back to opening the emoji picker, go to System Settings > Keyboard and set the Press Globe key to option to Show Emojis & Symbols. Now, pressing the Fn key will automatically bring up the emoji picker, allowing you to insert emojis easily.

If you’d rather have an on-screen shortcut instead of using a dedicated key, follow these steps:

1. Go to System Settings > Keyboard.
2. Click the Edit button next to Input Sources under Text Input.

   

3. Enable the Show Input menu in menu bar option.

   

4. Now, you can bring up the emoji picker by clicking the input menu icon in the menu bar and choosing Show Emojis & Symbols.

   

While this is a convenient way to type emojis, you may want to explore other methods that could be faster or offer more choices. So, let’s discuss some additional options.

2. Search on Emojipedia

For someone who didn’t grow up using emojis, Emojipedia is a lifesaver. As the name suggests, it’s the emoji encyclopedia. It lists every emoji known to mankind and provides a handy shortcut to copy one.

When you open the website, you can either select an emoji from various categories or search for a specific one. After choosing an emoji, simply click the Copy button and then paste the emoji wherever you want.

You can also combine any two emojis to create a new one, but remember that these will be sent as images rather than standard characters in most apps.

I find it really easy to search for unknown emojis on Emojipedia using descriptive terms. When I’m writing or in the middle of a conversation, Emojipedia often gives me better and faster results than other options.

Visit:Emojipedia (Free)

3. Use Rocket for Quick Emoji Typing

Many messaging apps like Slack or Discord make it easy to insert emojis by typing a colon (:) followed by a descriptive shortcut for the emoji. You can enable this method across all your apps using a third-party tool like Rocket, which lets you type emojis the same way in any app.

After downloading the setup, install it like any other DMG file and follow the on-screen instructions. Once installed, you can start using Rocket by typing emojis after a colon (:). For example, typing :thumbsup will give you a “like” emoji.

The free version of the app is a bit limited, though. But if you pay the $10 fee, you’ll unlock full emoji search and a GIF pack. More importantly, you’ll also get the ability to add custom shortcuts for emojis and GIFs, so you don’t have to adhere to Rocket’s nomenclature. You can also use the Rocket button in the menu bar to easily search and insert emojis anywhere.

Download:Rocket (Free, premium version available)

4. Use Text Expansion Shortcuts

If you don’t want to install a third-party app like Rocket, you can use the built-in Text Replacement feature to achieve the same result. The Text Replacement feature lets you expand shortcuts to long phrases of text, which can be a huge time saver. We can use the same feature for emojis.

To set up emoji shortcuts, follow these steps:

1. Head to System Settings > Keyboard and click the Text Replacements button under Text Input.
2. Now, click the (+) button.
3. In the Replace section, type your shortcut text, and in the With section, paste the emoji (you can find emojis on Emojipedia, for example).

Next time you type that shortcut, macOS will replace it with the emoji. Repeat the above steps for the emojis you use frequently. For example, to use :wave: for a waving emoji, enter :wave: in the Replace section and paste the wave emoji in the With section.

While typing emojis on a Mac might seem more complicated than on an iPhone, there are plenty of options to explore. I find Rocket the quickest method, as it’s ready to use right after installation. However, the built-in emoji picker might be the better choice if you prefer a more visual interface.

Whenever something big happens in the technology world, scammers are not far behind. The 2024 CrowdStrike outage is no different, and while the issues have been mostly sorted out, scammers are hot on its heels, peddling their latest tricks.

So, here’s what’s going on with the CrowdStrike repair email and why you should ignore it.

What Is CrowdStrike?

CrowdStrike is a global cybersecurity company whose clients include some of the world’s biggest companies. Companies that can’t risk data loss or having their systems compromised usually invest in something a little beefier than the Windows antivirus apps that you and I use on our personal computers, which is where expert organizations like CrowdStrike are required.

CrowdStrike is one of the more popular options for businesses, offering defense against hackers trying to gain access to vital systems, endpoint security, threat intelligence, and cyberattack response services. Given that the loss of these vital systems could cost companies millions of dollars at best or human lives at worst, companies need the best security they can get.

The CrowdStrike outage happened when the security firm pushed a bad update to companies worldwide. This update caused Windows computers to suffer a Bluescreen of Death loop when they booted up and rendered the affected systems unusable. This caused chaos worldwide, from canceled flights to important hospital software going offline. Furthering the issue, most affected computers needed to be reset and rebooted manually, adding millions of hours of downtime to vital systems.

What Is the CrowdStrike Repair Email?

As you might imagine, the CrowdStrike bug caused companies to panic. Many were looking for solutions from either Microsoft or CrowdStrike, both of which eventually published updates and tools to help PCs get back on track. Unfortunately, where there’s widespread panic, scammers aren’t far behind.

CrowdStrike identified a scam making the rounds that uses the latest outage as part of its bait. As described on the CrowdStrike blog, scammers took a copy of Microsoft’s advice on how to fix a computer affected by CrowdStrike. They then pasted it into a Word document and added a Word macro designed to download the Daolpu malware onto the target PC. They then email the infected Word document to people in hopes of getting a catch.

When someone receives the email with the infected Word document, they download it to learn how to fix the CrowdStrike bluescreen error. If they enable Word macros, the Daolpu malware downloads onto the victim’s PC. From here, Daolpu steals cookies and login details from the victim’s browser and sends them back to the scammer.

What to Do If You Receive a CrowdStrike Repair Email

Fortunately, the CrowdStrike repair email scam requires quite a bit of interaction to trigger. You’ll not only need to receive the email, but you also need to download the Word document and also enable macros. Some quality antivirus apps will detect if a Word document contains macros and will block the download before it even arrives.

Even if it does land on your PC, Word will warn you that the document contains macros and won’t let you enable them without your explicit permission. This scam makes for a good learning experience for a common rule of thumb: if you don’t know where the Word document came from, never enable macros. Who knows what’s lurking in there?

Should You Worry About CrowdStrike?

If you receive a CrowdStrike repair email, you may wonder: Will the CrowdStrike flaw affect my PC? Fortunately, if you’re reading this from your personal computer, I can guarantee that you’re not affected by CrowdStrike at all.

Remember, CrowdStrike is a business-orientated security suite designed to help organizations protect themselves. There’s an extremely high chance that your personal computer does not use CrowdStrike as its antivirus; it’d be like putting bulletproof glass on your everyday car. And because you don’t have CrowdStrike on your system, you’re unaffected by the recent outage.

If anyone claims that your PC is under threat because of CrowdStrike, there’s a high chance they’re trying to scare you into doing whatever they say. Don’t believe them; CrowdStrike is not a hidden service on your Windows PC, nor is it something you’d usually download on a personal PC.

The CrowdStrike repair scam is pretty nefarious, capitalizing on fear to spread malware. Fortunately, if you receive it on your personal computer, you have nothing to worry about. If you are using it, don’t trust a random email; instead, use Microsoft’s recovery tool or read CrowdStrike’s documentation on the outage for more information.

By default, macOS can read and copy files from NTFS drives but cannot write to them, and to enable full access, you’ll need to use a workaround. But don’t worry; we’ll teach you how to read and write to an NTFS drive on a Mac.

1. Format an NTFS Drive to FAT32 or ExFAT

If your NTFS drive doesn’t contain any valuable data, formatting to FAT32 or ExFAT is the simplest solution for sharing files between macOS and Windows.

Once you’ve switched to a cross-platform compatible format, you can read and write to your external disk on both Windows PCs and Macs. While either FAT format will work, FAT32 has several limitations, including a 4GB file size limit. Therefore, in most cases, ExFAT is the superior choice.

Here’s how to format a hard drive to FAT32 or ExFAT on macOS:

1. Launch Disk Utilityusing Spotlight search on your Mac or the Launchpad.
2. Select your NTFS drive from the left sidebar and click Erase in the toolbar.
3. Switch the format to FAT32 or ExFAT, rename if necessary, and click Erase.

Once you complete the process, your external drive will be in a format that’s fully compatible with both macOS and Windows.

2. Use a Third-Party App to Write to NTFS on Mac

If you need to stick with NTFS and can’t use another format like ExFAT, you’ll need a third-party app to write to your NTFS drive. I recommend Mounty because it’s free, open-source, and has a simple user interface.

Before using Mounty, you’ll need to install Homebrew on your Mac. If you have an Apple silicon Mac, make sure to enable kernel extensions. Here is how you can install and use Mounty on your Mac:

1. Open Terminal on your Mac and type in the following command to install Mounty along with all the required dependencies:

   brew install  

2. Open Mounty via Spotlight or the Launchpad.
3. Follow the on-screen instructions, and you’ll see a new M icon on your menu bar. Click it to access Mounty’s options.
4. Connect your drive to your Mac and select the Re-mount option. When prompted, enter your Mac’s password.

   

5. A new Finder window will open automatically, allowing you to write to your NTFS drive as you would with any other drive.

   

6. When you’re done, unmount the drive by selecting the Unmount option from Mounty’s menu.

   

If you’re facing issues with Mounty, you can also try other apps like Microsoft NTFS for Mac by Paragon. But note that it only comes with a 10-day trial, and you’ll need to pay for a license once the trial expires.

3. Use Virtualization Software to Write to NTFS on Mac

You can also try running Windows on your Mac using Parallels or any other virtualization software to write to an NTFS drive. However, keep in mind that a virtual machine can take up a lot of disk space.

It’s worth considering this option if you already virtualize Windows on your Mac for some other task. If you have an Intel Mac, you can also install Windows on your Mac alongside macOS, giving you the best of both worlds.

However, if you want to work seamlessly between Windows and macOS, having a drive formatted in either FAT32 or ExFAT will save you a lot of time and effort. The key is to configure the external drive before you fill it with important information.

The 2024 Summer Olympics will officially open on Friday, July 26, 2024, in Paris and run for 16 days, ending on August 11. 10,000+ athletes from across 200 nations will compete.

If you’re yet to cut the cord, you can watch the live events and highlights on NBC’s channels: NBC, NBC Sports, USA Network, and CNBC. But if you prefer streaming, here are your best options:

The easiest (and most affordable) way to stream the Olympics is via Peacock. You can stream every single event live on the platform, and the best part is that you can even set up Discovery Multiview, which lets you stream up to four sports simultaneously.

Some of the other highlights of the platform include a “Browse by Sport” feature that can come in handy if you’re looking to find all the highlights, live events, and replays for a specific sport, and a “Search by Star Athlete” option that lets you keep tabs on all your favorite athletes across different sports.

And if you happen to miss anything, don’t worry, because Peacock lets you add events to the “My Stuff” section to access later. If you want to stream via Peacock on your smart TV, sign up for one of the company’s plans, which starts at $7.99 per month.

Google has partnered with NBCUniversal to bring live coverage of the Summer Games to YouTube TV. While the platform offers access to over 100 channels, including all the ones that will let you stream the Olympics, like NBC, CNBC, and the USA Network, the highlight of using YouTube TV is that it has a pretty stellar DVR feature that will allows you to record shows and events.

They’ll remain on the platform for up to nine months, which gives you more than enough time to catch up on the highlights or live events from the Games. Now, the downside is that you’ll have to pay $72.99 per month for a YouTube TV subscription, but you can get around this by signing up for a free subscription.

DirecTV Stream is nowhere near as popular as the other platforms on this list, but it offers access to all the necessary channels for watching the Olympics, including CNBC, USA Network, Olympics Channel, and NBCSN. The best part is that these channels are available on DirecTV’s lowest-tier plan—the Entertainment package, which costs $79.99.

Want to save some money? Try the subscription for free and move to the Entertainment package or one of the other plans if you think the streaming service is right for you.

You’re likely already familiar with Hulu. Hulu + Live TV is an extension to Hulu’s on-demand service and costs $83 per month.

The platform gives you access to live and on-demand TV from over 95 channels, including all the ones that stream the Olympics. You also get access to cloud DVR storage for up to 200 hours, which is certainly helpful if you’re looking to catch all the action in your free time.

If affordability is important, you’ll likely appreciate how you can pick and choose packages with Sling TV. If you’re not one for customization, just opt for Sling Blue, which will give you access to the USA Network and NBC (the latter is only available in select geographies).

The subscription costs $40 per month, but if this is your first time signing up, you’ll enjoy your first month at $25 off, meaning you only have to pay $15 for your subscription.

If you reside in Canada, you’ll have to catch the Olympics on TV channels like CBC, Sportsnet, or TSN. However, if you’ve cut the cord, you can watch the Games on the free CBC Gem streaming platform.

With so many options to choose from, you’ll have no trouble finding a suitable platform to stream the Games. Just don’t forget to set reminders and mark your calendars for the events you don’t want to miss—I sure have!

Key Takeaways

• Adobe’s subscription is costly, potentially hindering the growth of aspiring creators.
• Adobe employs predatory pricing practices, charging high cancelation fees.
• Alternative software options are emerging as viable competitors to Adobe’s suite, offering more affordable pricing and enhanced features.

I have used Adobe’s software for nearly seven years for creative tasks, especially video and photo editing. I’ve been lucky enough to get it for free for most of that time through university connections and employers providing it, but here’s why I’m considering jumping ship and picking alternatives to Adobe Creative Cloud.

The Subscription Is Prohibitively Expensive

Adobe’s pricing model is prohibitively expensive. Adobe’s flagship, all-inclusive Creative Cloud plan costs $89.99 per month ($1079.88/year) if you pay monthly, $59.99 per month ($719.88/year) if you sign a year-long contract, or an up-front annual payment of $659.88 per year ($54.99/month).

For a profitable freelancer or creator, this may not be a huge expense. Conversely, for aspiring creators who aren’t earning money from their work yet or not earning enough to offset the expense, this is prohibitively expensive.

Adobe does offer some individual software and smaller bundles at reduced costs, but many creators, especially those in video, cannot suffice with just Premiere Pro, or just Photoshop and Lightroom. I only use four Adobe software with any regularity, yet I have to pay the price to use the entire suite.

Adobe has positioned itself as the industry standard for creative professionals, making it the most likely option to be selected by these aspiring artists and students, and also gives Adobe the leverage to charge these exorbitant prices. In many cases, Adobe is only worth it for pros.

While Adobe does offer student discounts—at a whopping 66% off—these often also face scrutiny due to Adobe’s predatory pricing model.

Adobe Employs Predatory Pricing Practices

I mentioned that Adobe Creative Cloud is $59.99 per month if you sign a year-long contract. While Adobe has become more forthcoming about early cancelation fees, most consumers are unlikely to read the exact details of what they mean. I say this as someone who wanted to cancel early, and then chose not to because of the surprise fee.

Reading Adobe’s cancelation terms, if you cancel your $59.99 per month Adobe Creative Cloud plan after 14 days or before your final monthly payment of that contract, you will be charged 50% of the remainder of that contract’s annualized price.

Let’s do the math. An annualized plan comes out to a bit under $720 per year. If you use it for three months, decide it’s too expensive, and want to cancel, that cancelation fee will be $720 minus three months of $59.99, then divided in half. Rounded, that’s about $280 to cancel your Adobe subscription after three months of usage: a cancelation fee of around $100 more than what you paid to use the service.

I would have no qualms about the pricing model if Adobe were more clear about its implications. However, the company instead ends up tricking most users into thinking they are paying a better monthly price, when it is a monthly price with expensive strings attached.

Many creative people with limited funds likely purchase the “less expensive” monthly option, end up wanting to cancel it because it’s too costly, and then find out they have a huge cancelation fee—I have been one of these people. It’s predatory, plain and simple, and the U.S. Department of Justice and FTC are even suing Adobe over this pricing scheme.

The ToS Give Adobe Too Much Ownership of Your Content

Adobe faced recent controversy about a terms of service update, where the company may “view, access, or listen to your Content through both automated and manual methods in order to improve our Services and Software and the user experience.”

The company did clarify its statements and revise some of its wording in the ToS, stating that user content would not be used to train Firefly, Adobe’s generative AI tool. However, in other areas, it already has done so.

Adobe Stock is a service where photographers can upload high-quality stock images and get paid when people use them. However, Adobe states that it used Adobe Stock images to train Firefly.

While many of these photographers and artists were compensated for providing these images to train Firefly and may have known how their works would be used, unless they carefully read Adobe’s terms of service frequently and in-depth, they likely had no idea their own work was used to potentially make them obsolete.

AI features can add numerous layers of efficiency to creative workflows, but many folks in creative fields may not want their content to unknowingly be used to continue making them obsolete, especially considering Adobe’s somewhat ambiguous ToS over content rights. As such, many may end up preferring to use software that provides better protection from AI.

Adobe Is Losing Its Status as Industry Leader

For many creative tasks, Adobe is and has been the leading software solution. Very few alternatives have full feature parity with their Adobe counterparts. However, as creative tasks have dispersed to more and more job roles, far more user-friendly alternatives to Adobe have arisen, such as Canva giving non-designers powerful and easy design tools, and Snapseed for free mobile photo editing.

Moreover, numerous alternative tools to Adobe’s software have surpassed it in certain tasks, such as DaVinci Resolve offering many superior features to Premiere Pro, especially when it comes to color grading and correction. DaVinci Resolve additionally offers a completely free version of its software, albeit with reduced features, which can also act as a free trial before dropping $295 on the full release.

Similarly, multiple browser-based alternatives to Illustrator are free, and Affinity provides many of the same features as Photoshop, Lightroom, and InDesign with similar user-friendliness but for a single purchase, rather than an exorbitant monthly payment.

Affinity, which was recently acquired by Canva, even offers a six-month free trial to new users who want time to learn the software before financially committing to it. And ever since Adobe’s ToS controversy has come to light, it has offered 50% off its base price for the software until August 15th, 2024, a single-purchase lifetime license.

In my case, as a video creator who often edits photos and graphics, I could purchase Affinity for $82.99 (on sale) and DaVinci Resolve for $295 to replace Photoshop, Lightroom, and Premiere Pro for my work. For these two one-time purchases, I would be spending $377.99 once for all the software I need to create content, whereas one year of Adobe without any discounts would be $659.88 at the absolute cheapest.

On top of that, many creators can absolutely get by with completely free alternatives to Adobe.

Great Software Doesn’t Outweigh Poor Ethics

I write this article as someone who has used Adobe for many years. I do think the company’s software is generally fantastic, and in many cases, it is the best solution for many creative tasks. However, with exorbitantly high fees, a predatory pricing model, ambiguous ToS, and a growing base of alternatives, I probably won’t renew my subscription next time. I’m willing to sacrifice some features and convenient workflows between software, but cannot ethically support Adobe until it improves its pricing model and privacy.

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Alt + 172 / Alt + 0188

¼

Vulgar Fraction One Quarter

Alt + 236

∞

Infinity Symbol

Alt + 239

∩

Intersection

Alt + 240

≡

Equivalent To Sign

Alt + 241 / Alt + 0177

±

Plus-Minus Sign

Alt + 242

≥

Greater Than or Equal To Sign

Alt + 243

≤

Less Than or Equal To Sign

Alt + 244

⌠

Top-Half Intergral Symbol

Alt + 245

⌡

Bottom-Half Integral Symbol

Alt + 246 / Alt + 0247

÷

Division Sign

Alt + 247

≈

Almost Equal To Sign

Alt + 248 / Alt + 0176

°

Degree Sign

Alt + 249

∙

Bullet Operator

Alt + 251

√

Square Root Sign

Alt + 252

ⁿ

Superscript Latin Small Letter N

Alt + 253 / Alt + 0178

²

Squared Sign

Alt + 0137

‰

Per Mille Sign

Alt + 0179

³

Cubed Sign

Alt + 0185

¹

Superscript Number One

Alt + 0190

¾

Vulgar Fraction Three Quarters

Alt + 0215

×

Multiplication Sign

Alphanumeric Characters

Alt + 48

0

Digit Zero

Alt + 49

1

Digit One

Alt + 50

2

Digit Two

Alt + 51

3

Digit Three

Alt + 52

4

Digit Four

Alt + 53

5

Digit Five

Alt + 54

6

Digit Six

Alt + 55

7

Digit Seven

Alt + 56

8

Digit Eight

Alt + 57

9

Digit Nine

Alt + 65

A

Latin Capital Letter A

Alt + 66

B

Latin Capital Letter B

Alt + 67

C

Latin Capital Letter C

Alt + 68

D

Latin Capital Letter D

Alt + 69

E

Latin Capital Letter E

Alt + 70

F

Latin Capital Letter F

Alt + 71

G

Latin Capital Letter G

Alt + 72

H

Latin Capital Letter H

Alt + 73

I

Latin Capital Letter I

Alt + 74

J

Latin Capital Letter J

Alt + 75

K

Latin Capital Letter K

Alt + 76

L

Latin Capital Letter L

Alt + 77

M

Latin Capital Letter M

Alt + 78

N

Latin Capital Letter N

Alt + 79

O

Latin Capital Letter O

Alt + 80

P

Latin Capital Letter P

Alt + 81

Q

Latin Capital Letter Q

Alt + 82

R

Latin Capital Letter R

Alt + 83

S

Latin Capital Letter S

Alt + 84

T

Latin Capital Letter T

Alt + 85

U

Latin Capital Letter U

Alt + 86

V

Latin Capital Letter V

Alt + 87

W

Latin Capital Letter W

Alt + 88

X

Latin Capital Letter X

Alt + 89

Y

Latin Capital Letter Y

Alt + 90

Z

Latin Capital Letter Z

Alt + 97

a

Latin Small Letter A

Alt + 98

b

Latin Small Letter B

Alt + 99

c

Latin Small Letter C

Alt + 100

d

Latin Small Letter D

Alt + 101

e

Latin Small Letter E

Alt + 102

f

Latin Small Letter F

Alt + 103

g

Latin Small Letter G

Alt + 104

h

Latin Small Letter H

Alt + 105

i

Latin Small Letter I

Alt + 106

j

Latin Small Letter J

Alt + 107

k

Latin Small Letter K

Alt + 108

l

Latin Small Letter L

Alt + 109

m

Latin Small Letter M

Alt + 110

n

Latin Small Letter N

Alt + 111

o

Latin Small Letter O

Alt + 112

p

Latin Small Letter P

Alt + 113

q

Latin Small Letter Q

Alt + 114

r

Latin Small Letter R

Alt + 115

s

Latin Small Letter S

Alt + 116

t

Latin Small Letter T

Alt + 117

u

Latin Small Letter U

Alt + 118

v

Latin Small Letter V

Alt + 119

w

Latin Small Letter W

Alt + 120

x

Latin Small Letter X

Alt + 121

y

Latin Small Letter Y

Alt + 122

z

Latin Small Letter Z

Special Letters

Alt + 128 / Alt + 0199

Ç

Latin Capital Letter C With Cedilla

Alt + 129 / Alt + 0252

ü

Latin Small Letter U With Diaeresis

Alt + 130 / Alt + 0233

é

Latin Small Letter E With Acute

Alt + 131 / Alt + 0226

â

Latin Small Letter A With Circumflex

Alt + 132 / Alt + 0228

ä

Latin Small Letter A With Diaeresis

Alt + 133 / Alt + 0224

à

Latin Small Letter A With Grave

Alt + 134 / Alt + 0229

å

Latin Small Letter A With Ring Above

Alt + 135 / Alt + 0231

ç

Latin Small Letter C With Cedilla

Alt + 136 / Alt + 0234

ê

Latin Small Letter E With Circumflex

Alt + 137 / Alt + 0235

ë

Latin Small Letter E With Diaeresis

Alt + 138 / Alt + 0232

è

Latin Small Letter E With Grave

Alt + 139 / Alt + 0239

ï

Latin Small Letter I With Diaeresis

Alt + 140 / Alt + 0238

î

Latin Small Letter I With Circumflex

Alt + 141 / Alt + 0236

ì

Latin Small Letter I With Grave

Alt + 142 / Alt + 0196

Ä

Latin Capital Letter A With Diaeresis

Alt + 143 / Alt + 0197

Å

Latin Capital Letter A With Ring Above

Alt + 144 / Alt + 0201

É

Latin Capital Letter E With Acute

Alt + 145 / Alt + 0230

æ

Latin Small Letter AE

Alt + 146 / Alt + 0198

Æ

Latin Capital Letter AE

Alt + 147 / Alt + 0244

ô

Latin Small Letter O With Circumflex

Alt + 148 / Alt + 0246

ö

Latin Small Letter O With Diaeresis

Alt + 149 / Alt + 0242

ò

Latin Small Letter O With Grave

Alt + 150 / Alt + 0251

û

Latin Small Letter U With Circumflex

Alt + 151 / Alt + 0249

ù

Latin Small Letter U Grave

Alt + 152 / Alt + 0255

ÿ

Latin Small Letter Y With Diaeresis

Alt + 153 / Alt + 0214

Ö

Latin Capital Letter O With Diaeresis

Alt + 154 / Alt + 0220

Ü

Latin Capital Letter U With Diaeresis

Alt + 159 / Alt + 0131

ƒ

Latin Small Letter F With Hook

Alt + 160 / Alt + 0225

á

Latin Small Letter A With Acute

Alt + 161 / Alt + 0237

í

Latin Small Letter I With Acute

Alt + 162 / Alt + 0243

ó

Latin Small Letter O With Acute

Alt + 163 / Alt + 0250

ú

Latin Small Letter U With Acute

Alt + 164 / Alt + 0241

ñ

Latin Small Letter N With Tilde

Alt + 165 / Alt + 0209

Ñ

Latin Capital Letter N With Tilde

Alt + 0138 / Alt + 0352

Š

Latin Capital Letter S With Caron

Alt + 0140 / Alt + 0338

Œ

Latin Capital Ligature Oe

Alt + 0142 / Alt + 0381

Ž

Latin Capital Letter Z With Caron

Alt + 0154 / Alt + 0353

š

Latin Small Letter S With Caron

Alt + 0156 / Alt + 0339

œ

Latin Small Ligature Oe

Alt + 0158 / Alt + 0382

ž

Latin Small Letter Z With Caron

Alt + 0159 / Alt + 0376

Ÿ

Latin Capital Letter With Diaeresis

Alt + 0192

À

Latin Capital Letter A With Grave

Alt + 0193

Á

Latin Capital Letter A With Acute

Alt + 0194

Â

Latin Capital Letter A With Circumflex

Alt + 0195

Ã

Latin Capital Letter A With Tilde

Alt + 0200

È

Latin Capital Letter E With Grave

Alt + 0202

Ê

Latin Capital Letter E With Circumflex

Alt + 0203

Ë

Latin Capital Letter E With Diaeresis

Alt + 0204

Ì

Latin Capital Letter I With Grave

Alt + 0205

Í

Latin Capital Letter I With Acute

Alt + 0206

Î

Latin Capital Letter I With Circumflex

Alt + 0207

Ï

Latin Capital Letter I With Diaeresis

Alt + 0208

Ð

Latin Capital Letter Eth

Alt + 0210

Ò

Latin Capital Letter O With Grave

Alt + 0211

Ó

Latin Capital Letter O With Acute

Alt + 0212

Ô

Latin Capital Letter O With Circumflex

Alt + 0213

Õ

Latin Capital Letter O With Tilde

Alt + 0216

Ø

Latin Capital Letter O With Stroke

Alt + 0217

Ù

Latin Capital Letter U With Grave

Alt + 0218

Ú

Latin Capital Letter U With Acute

Alt + 0219

Û

Latin Capital Letter U With Circumflex

Alt + 0221

Ý

Latin Capital Letter Y With Acute

Alt + 0222

Þ

Latin Capital Letter Thorn

Alt + 0227

ã

Latin Small Letter A With Tilde

Alt + 0240

ð

Latin Small Letter Eth

Alt + 0245

õ

Latin Small Letter O With Tilde

Alt + 0248

ø

Latin Small Letter O With Slash

Alt + 0253

ý

Latin Small Letter Y With Acute

Alt + 0254

þ

Latin Small Letter Thorn

Alt + 0256

Ā

Latin Capital Letter A With Macron

Alt + 0257

ā

Latin Small Letter A With Macron

Alt + 0258

Ă

Latin Capital Letter A With Caron

Alt + 0259

ă

Latin Small Letter A With Caron

Alt + 0260

Ą

Latin Capital Letter A With Ogonek

Alt + 0261

ą

Latin Small Letter A With Ogonek

Alt + 0262

Ć

Latin Capital Letter C With Acute

Alt + 0263

ć

Latin Small Letter C With Acute

Alt + 0264

Ĉ

Latin Capital Letter C With Circumflex

Alt + 0265

ĉ

Latin Small Letter C With Circumflex

Alt + 0266

Ċ

Latin Capital Letter C With Dot Above

Alt + 0267

ċ

Latin Small Letter C With Dot Above

Alt + 0268

Č

Latin Capital Letter C With Caron

Alt + 0269

č

Latin Small Letter C With Caron

Alt + 0270

Ď

Latin Capital Letter D With Caron

Alt + 0271

ď

Latin Small Letter D With Caron

Alt + 0272

Đ

Latin Capital Letter D With Stroke

Alt + 0273

đ

Latin Small Letter D With Stroke

Alt + 0274

Ē

Latin Capital Letter E With Stroke

Alt + 0275

ē

Latin Small Letter E With Stroke

Alt + 0276

Ĕ

Latin Capital Letter E With Breve

Alt + 0277

ĕ

Latin Small Letter E With Breve

Alt + 0278

Ė

Latin Capital Letter E With Dot Above

Alt + 0279

ė

Latin Small Letter E With Dot Above

Alt + 0280

Ę

Latin Capital Letter E With Ogonek

Alt + 0281

ę

Latin Small Letter E With Ogonek

Alt + 0282

Ě

Latin Capital Letter E With Breve

Alt + 0283

ě

Latin Small Letter E With Breve

Alt + 0284

Ĝ

Latin Capital Letter G With Circumflex

Alt + 0285

ĝ

Latin Small Letter G With Circumflex

Alt + 0286

Ğ

Latin Capital Letter G With Breve

Alt + 0287

ğ

Latin Small Letter G With Breve

Alt + 0288

Ġ

Latin Capital Letter G With Dot Above

Alt + 0289

ġ

Latin Small Letter G With Dot Above

Alt + 0290

Ģ

Latin Capital Letter G With Cedilla

Alt + 0291

ģ

Latin Small Letter G With Cedilla

Alt + 0292

Ĥ

Latin Capital Letter H With Circumflex

Alt + 0293

ĥ

Latin Small Letter H With Circumflex

Alt + 0294

Ħ

Latin Capital Letter H With Stroke

Alt + 0295

ħ

Latin Small Letter H With Stroke

Alt + 0296

Ĩ

Latin Capital Letter I With Tilde

Alt + 0297

ĩ

Latin Small Letter I With Tilde

Alt + 0298

Ī

Latin Capital Letter I With Macron

Alt + 0299

ī

Latin Small Letter I With Macron

Alt + 0300

Ĭ

Latin Capital Letter I With Breve

Alt + 0301

ĭ

Latin Small Letter I With Breve

Alt + 0302

Į

Latin Capital Letter I With Ogonek

Alt + 0303

į

Latin Small Letter I With Ogonek

Alt + 0304

İ

Latin Capital Letter I With Dot Above

Alt + 0305

ı

Latin Small Letter Dotless I

Alt + 0306

IJ

Latin Capital Ligature Ij

Alt + 0307

ij

Latin Small Ligature Ij

Alt + 0308

Ĵ

Latin Capital Letter J With Circumflex

Alt + 0309

ĵ

Latin Small Letter J With Circumflex

Alt + 0310

Ķ

Latin Capital Letter K With Cedilla

Alt + 0311

ķ

Latin Small Letter K With Cedilla

Alt + 0312

ĸ

Latin Small Letter Kra

Alt + 0313

Ĺ

Latin Capital Letter L With Acute

Alt + 0314

ĺ

Latin Small Letter L With Acute

Alt + 0315

Ļ

Latin Capital Letter L With Cedilla

Alt + 0316

ļ

Latin Small Letter L With Cedilla

Alt + 0317

Ľ

Latin Capital Letter L With Caron

Alt + 0318

ľ

Latin Small Letter L With Caron

Alt + 0319

Ŀ

Latin Capital Letter L With Middle Dot

Alt + 0320

ŀ

Latin Small Letter L With Middle Dot

Alt + 0321

Ł

Latin Capital Letter L With Stroke

Alt + 0322

ł

Latin Small Letter L With Stroke

Alt + 0323

Ń

Latin Capital Letter N With Acute

Alt + 0324

ń

Latin Small Letter N With Acute

Alt + 0325

Ņ

Latin Capital Letter N With Cedilla

Alt + 0326

ņ

Latin Small Letter N With Cedilla

Alt + 0327

Ň

Latin Capital Letter N With Caron

Alt + 0328

ň

Latin Small Letter N With Caron

Alt + 0329

ʼn

Latin Small Letter N Preceded by an Apostrophe

Alt + 0330

Ŋ

Latin Capital Letter Eng

Alt + 0331

ŋ

Latin Small Letter Eng

Alt + 0332

Ō

Latin Capital Letter O With Macron

Alt + 0333

ō

Latin Small Letter O With Macron

Alt + 0334

Ŏ

Latin Capital Letter O With Breve

Alt + 0335

ŏ

Latin Small Letter O With Breve

Alt + 0336

Ő

Latin Capital Letter O With Double Acute

Alt + 0337

ő

Latin Small Letter O With Double Acute

Alt + 0340

Ŕ

Latin Capital Letter R With Acute

Alt + 0341

ŕ

Latin Small Letter R With Acute

Alt + 0342

Ŗ

Latin Capital Letter R With Cedilla

Alt + 0343

ŗ

Latin Small Letter R With Cedilla

Alt + 0344

Ř

Latin Capital Letter R With Caron

Alt + 0345

ř

Latin Small Letter R With Caron

Alt + 0346

Ś

Latin Capital Letter S With Acute

Alt + 0347

ś

Latin Small Letter S With Acute

Alt + 0348

Ŝ

Latin Capital Letter S With Circumflex

Alt + 0349

ŝ

Latin Small Letter S With Circumflex

Alt + 0350

Ş

Latin Capital Letter S With Cedilla

Alt + 0351

ş

Latin Small Letter S With Cedilla

Alt + 0354

Ţ

Latin Capital Letter T With Cedilla

Alt + 0355

ţ

Latin Small Letter T With Cedilla

Alt + 0356

Ť

Latin Capital Letter T With Caron

Alt + 0357

ť

Latin Small Letter T With Caron

Alt + 0358

Ŧ

Latin Capital Letter T With Stroke

Alt + 0359

ŧ

Latin Small Letter T With Stroke

Alt + 0360

Ũ

Latin Capital Letter U With Tilde

Alt + 0361

ũ

Latin Small Letter U With Tilde

Alt + 0362

Ū

Latin Capital Letter U With Macron

Alt + 0363

ū

Latin Small Letter U With Macron

Alt + 0364

Ŭ

Latin Capital Letter U With Breve

Alt + 0365

ŭ

Latin Small Letter U With Breve

Alt + 0366

Ů

Latin Capital Letter U With Ring Above

Alt + 0367

ů

Latin Small Letter U With Ring Above

Alt + 0368

Ű

Latin Capital Letter With Double Acute

Alt + 0369

ű

Latin Small Letter U With Double Acute

Alt + 0370

Ų

Latin Capital Letter U With Ogonek

Alt + 0371

ų

Latin Small Letter U With Ogonek

Alt + 0372

Ŵ

Latin Capital Letter W With Circumflex

Alt + 0373

ŵ

Latin Small Letter W With Circumflex

Alt + 0374

Ŷ

Latin Capital Letter Y With Circumflex

Alt + 0375

ŷ

Latin Small Letter Y With Circumflex

Alt + 0377

Ź

Latin Capital Letter Z With Acute

Alt + 0378

ź

Latin Small Letter Z With Acute

Alt + 0379

Ż

Latin Capital Letter Z With Dot Above

Alt + 0380

ż

Latin Small Letter Z With Dot Above

Logic Signs

Alt + 169

⌐

Reversed Not Sign

Alt + 170 / Alt + 0172

¬

Not Sign

Greek Characters

Alt + 224

α

Greek Small Letter Alpha

Alt + 225 / Alt + 0223

ß

Greek Small Letter Beta

Alt + 226

Γ

Greek Capital Letter Gamma

Alt + 227

π

Greek Small Letter Pi

Alt + 228

Σ

Greek Capital Letter Sigma

Alt + 229

σ

Greek Small Letter Sigma

Alt + 230 / Alt + 0181

µ

Greek Small Letter Mu

Alt + 231

τ

Greek Small Letter Tau

Alt + 232

Φ

Greek Capital Letter Phi

Alt + 233

Θ

Greek Capital Letter Theta

Alt + 234

Ω

Greek Capital Letter Omega

Alt + 235

δ

Greek Small Letter Delta

Alt + 237

φ

Greek Small Letter Phi

Alt + 238

ε

Greek Small Letter Epsilon