In a world of iPhones, Samsung Galaxies, and Pixels, the rest of the smartphone market can often fall under the radar, especially when every manufacturer is trying to lock you into their respective ecosystems. ASUS’ Zenfone line has been around for quite some time and recently has captured attention for its highly competitive and capable Zenfone 10 and Zenfone 9 before it. So what happens when it goes all out on one ultra-flagship phone?

Enter the new ASUS Zenfone 11 Ultra, a massive departure from the compact-sized Zenfone 10 from last year, coming in with a new design, dramatically larger display and battery, and a supped-up camera system, but frankly loses the touch of the ASUS’ smaller phones.

Zenfone Goes Big

As alluded to before, the Zenfone 11 Ultra ditches the compact design of its predecessors, and while it’s sad to see the small form factor go, this larger Zenfone is very nice. The phone’s back is a matte metallic glass finish, which has ASUS’ monogram subtly etched onto it, and the way it refracts light looks excellent. Despite its size, the Zenfone 11 Ultra’s mix of a curved back panel and flat aluminum sides provides a firm and comfortable grip.

I think there’s one main design aspect that sticks out (literally) with the Zenfone 11 Ultra, and that is its camera bump, which is this massive protruding rectangle that awkwardly sits asymmetrically towards the top of the phone. This camera bump reminds me of the Galaxy Note 20 Ultra’s camera bump, just by the way it’s so visible, but what accentuates the awkwardness of it on the Zenfone is just how disproportionate it looks compared to the slender, curvier back panel—it looks very out of place.

A Decent Snappy Display

The 11 Ultra’s larger footprint accommodates a 6.78-inch OLED display that has vibrant colors and deep contrasts. The Zenfone offers up to a 144Hz refresh rate when you enter the device’s gaming modes, but in typical usage, it’ll dynamically adjust to about 120Hz.

Compared to other flagships like the Samsung Galaxy S24 Ultra, I would say the Zenfone’s display is almost on par, but not quite at the flagship level. The screen-to-body ratio is about 88%, and the bezels are almost uniform all the way around, but with the bottom bezel being slightly bigger.

That said, the screen is only a 1080p panel, which, when compared to similarly priced flagships like the OnePlus 12, which has a dramatically brighter panel at 2,500 nits and can go up to 1440p in resolution, really doesn’t make the Zenfone’s panel look all that impressive.

Flagship Camera Woes

Onto the camera system, the Zenfone 11 Ultra is equipped with a main 50MP sensor that has a 6-axis hybrid gimbal stabilizer, a 32MP telephoto lens that offers 3x optical zoom and up to a 30x digital zoom, and a new 13MP ultra-wide camera that reduces lens distortion.

In real-world practice, I think the cameras are decent, offering great dynamic range and mostly accurate color and consistency across the three sensors, but this camera system seems to have a watercolor effect on photos, where it tries to over-sharpen and reduce grain simultaneously and yields something that looks very over-processed in its final result.

These pitfalls can most likely be addressed with light editing and software updates to the camera, but I think the broader issue with how the phone handles photos is the fact that it tries to keep everything—even things that shouldn’t be sharp and in focus—sharp and detailed, and it reduces the overall versatility of this otherwise great hardware setup.

Performance of A Gaming Phone

When it comes to performance and battery life, this is where the Zenfone 11 Ultra truly shines, and where its larger footprint pays off. The device is powered by the Qualcomm Snapdragon 8 Gen 3 chipset and comes with up to 16GB of RAM and 512GB of storage.

I had already tested the Snapdragon 8 Gen 3 on the Samsung Galaxy S24 Ultra earlier this year, and the performance is on par, with the Zenfone scoring 2,242 on single core and 6,920 on multicore for Geekbench 6, but what makes the Zenfone 11 Ultra feel arguably special is just how fluid the OS feels on this chip.

The Galaxy S24 Ultra is no slouch by any means, but ASUS’ skin on top of Android 14 feels very lightweight, and only addresses areas where ASUS sees fit, and that makes this phone feel excellent to use.

There are no fancy designs or flashy new software features that are asking for your attention— the Zenfone 11 Ultra essentially runs like a pure stock Android phone that only adds in a light sprinkling of ASUS’ software features, most of which are opt-in during the setup process. Things like high-performance mode, which kicks in when you open a game (or hilariously, benchmark apps) are excellent and lets you use the 144Hz refresh rate, though the phone does get uncomfortably hot to the touch under intense performance loads of games like Genshin Impact.

Battery for Days

The battery life on the Zenfone 11 Ultra is excellent, though unsurprising. The phone sports a massive 5500mAh battery, which ASUS touts lasts for over 26 hours on a single charge, but in real-world usage, this translates to a phone that can comfortably be used the next day without needing to charge.

The phone also charges very fast as well, with a peak charging speed of 65W that can get to 100% in 39 minutes and offers up to 15W of wireless charging. Overall, if you’re coming from a smaller device, I think there’s a notable change in how you will live with it and charge it, and it feels very liberating to have a reliable charge at all times.

Should You Buy the Zenfone 11 Ultra?

Overall, the ASUS Zenfone 11 Ultra is a decent choice for anyone looking for a capable phone in 2024, but I can’t conclude this review without addressing the big elephant in the room, which is the question: Isn’t this just a rebranded ROG Phone 8 Pro? And the answer is yes, this phone is essentially the same phone with a slightly tweaked design that drops all the gamer-esque polishes, and that just means that everything we discussed was, in part, just highlighting the typical benefits and pitfalls of owning a gaming phone.

The Zenfone 11 Ultra offers excellent performance and battery life, above all else, has an expansive high-refresh-rate display, and provides software features that specifically gear it towards gamers, despite not explicitly saying so.

This also means certain general-use fundamentals of the phone experience like the camera suffer in a way that other devices within the Zenfone’s flagship category may not. It depends on what aspects of the big phone experience you deem to be important to you.

I recommend the Zenfone 11 Ultra to people who want a gaming phone without the gamer aesthetic, but in the grand scheme of things, the 11 Ultra feels like just another big phone entering a market that has assimilated itself to more-or-less the same big phone formula in different bodies.

Asus Zenfone 11 Ultra

The ASUS Zenfone 11 Ultra is a significant departure from its predecessors, with its new bigger body and expansive 6.78-inch OLED display. The phone has a substantially large 5500mAh battery, with its standout features including powerful performance powered by the Snapdragon 8 Gen 3 chipset. However, the phone’s camera system, despite delivering generally decent color accuracy and consistency across the entire camera array, suffers from over-processing, detracting from the overall experience. 

 

If you considered buying a modern Mac recently, you may have come across the term unified memory being used instead of RAM. But what does it mean, and how is it different from traditional RAM? Read along to find out.

What Is Unified Memory?

People often think the Apple silicon chip is a CPU, but that’s not entirely true. It’s actually an SoC (System-on-a-Chip), which consists of various components in the same package, such as the CPU, GPU, Neural Engine, and more.

All these components require some place to temporarily store data in order to function, and that’s when Apple’s unified memory comes in. Unified memory consists of extremely fast DRAM chips that are located in the same package, which leads to lower power consumption and better performance.

The main advantage the SoC gains from this is that it can utilize a single pool of high-speed, low-latency memory that’s readily accessible by all components. This eliminates the need for data to be copied between different memory locations, a process that can be time-consuming and requires additional power.

How Is Unified Memory Different From Traditional RAM?

The CPU and GPU in a traditional system have different architectures; they depend on different types of RAM for getting data. There are two types of RAM on a traditional system with a dedicated GPU: the system RAM and VRAM (video memory)

The VRAM is responsible for sending data to the GPU, whereas the system RAM is responsible for transferring data to the CPU. The biggest bottleneck with traditional RAM is that it is connected to the CPU using a socket on the motherboard, which is generally slower than RAM integrated with the SoC.

On the other hand, Apple silicon uses the same substrate for mounting the RAM and the SoC. Although the RAM is not part of the SoC in such an architecture, Apple uses a silicon interposer to connect the RAM to the SoC.

In simpler terms, this setup means that the RAM is located very close to the components that need to access it. This eliminates the bottleneck we talked about, making it more power efficient and faster while also being suitable enough to be used by the GPU without any compromises.

Is Unified Memory Faster Than Traditional RAM?

As we explained earlier, the GPU and the CPU have different memory pools in traditional settings. Apple, on the contrary, allows the GPU, CPU, and Neural Engine to access the same memory pool, meaning data does not need to be transferred from one memory system to another, improving the system’s efficiency further.

Due to all these differences in the memory architecture, the unified memory system offers high data bandwidth to the SoC. In fact, the M2 Ultra provides a bandwidth of 800GB/s, which is substantially higher compared to discrete GPUs like the AMD Radeon RX 7800 XT, which offers a bandwidth of 624GB/s.

However, the M2 Ultra doesn’t offer the best figures in its class. NVIDIA’s GeForce RTX 4090 and AMD’s Radeon RX 7900 XTX both beat the M2 Ultra in terms of memory bandwidth (1008GB/s and 960GB/s, respectively) and general performance as well.

This high bandwidth enables the CPU, GPU, and Neural Engine to access vast data pools in nanoseconds. However, this also means that you may run out of memory more quickly during tasks that use both the CPU and GPU, such as gaming, because the RAM is shared across the entire SoC.

How Much Unified Memory Do You Need?

The biggest disadvantage of Apple’s architecture is that since the memory is baked into the SoC, you cannot upgrade your Mac’s RAM down the line. On most Macs, Apple charges an absurd $200 for 16GB of unified memory, so you should carefully assess how much you need today and in the future.

I personally use an M1 MacBook Air with 8GB of unified memory, and although it’s enough for general use, it does go through the occasional struggle. So, I’ll definitely configure my next Mac with at least 16GB of unified memory. But if you need more help making an informed decision, we have a dedicated guide on how much memory you need for your Mac.

While the initial cost of upgrading unified memory may seem high, it might be better to just eat up that cost. It’s cheaper than buying an entirely new Mac just because you realized that your current configuration is not fit for your tasks two or three years down the line.

Thin and light laptops are getting more power each year, but they will always miss out on something that bulkier computers have—a healthy number of ports for connecting everything you need. So, if you want to expand your port options without affecting your file transfer speeds, you need a Thunderbolt 4 hub. The Revodok Max 208 gives you that and more, turning your thin-and-light into a peripheral powerhouse.

Ugreen Revodok Max 208 Thunderbolt 4 Docking Station

$190 $280 Save $90

The Ugreen Revodok Max 208 adds six more USB ports and a physical LAN connection. It’s perfect for adding ports to a thin and light laptop, making it more productive.

Brand

Ugreen

Connection

Thunderbolt 4

Ports

3x Thunderbolt 4/USB 4, 3x USB-A, 1x RJ-45, 1x power

USB-C Power Delivery

85 watts

Power supply included

Yes

Maximum display resolution

8K@30

Weight

569 g

Dimensions

15.4 x 8.6 x 3.5 cm

Pros

• Charges your laptop at up to 85 watts while using it
• Can connect up to two displays at 4K@60
• Plug-and-play connection

Cons

• No SD card slot
• No HDMI port

Comes in a Massive Box

The Revodok Max 208 is the little brother of the Max 213, so it’s smaller and lighter. The 208 weighs 569g and measures 15.4 x 8.6 x 3.5cm. It also has a perfectly rectangular shape, so having the Max 208 on your desk is like putting a little black metallic brick on it.

Aside from the dock, you also get a huge 140-watt power brick with a barrel jack for powering the dock and a Thunderbolt 4 cable for connecting your laptop to it. These three items come in a rather massive box for their sizes, belying the premium price point that the Revodok docks offer.

A Premium Dock on Your Desk

Although the Revodok Max 208 is shaped like a metal slab, it has two long, narrow vents—one in front and another at the back—that dissipate heat while adding a little flair to the dock. It also has a ridged metal power button and an LED indicator light.

Up front, you get three USB-A ports, while the back offers four USB-C ports, an RJ-45 port, and an outlet for plugging in the power barrel jack. It also has four rubber feet, ensuring it won’t slide around on your desk.

Adds Six High-Speed Ports and Gigabit Ethernet to Your Laptop

The USB ports at the back of the Revodok Max 208 are all Thunderbolt 4 ports, meaning they all support up to 40 Gbps of file transfer speeds. However, you can only use the port at the far end of the dock to connect and power your laptop, while all the rest are designed for output.

On the other hand, the USB-A ports in front of the dock can transfer up to 10 Gbps, while the RJ45 LAN port has a transfer speed of up to 1 Gbps. You can also transfer video data using any of the three Thunderbolt 4 ports. If you’re running Windows, you can get as much as 8K@30Hz on a single display or 4K@60Hz with two displays. But if you have a macOS device, you’re limited to 4K@60Hz, whether using one or two displays.

Also, the number of displays you can use with the Revodok Max 208 depends on your system. While most Windows laptops will support up to four external displays, the following Apple laptops will only work with one external display, even if you use the dock: M1 MacBook Air, M2 MacBook Air, M2 MacBook Pro, and the M3 MacBook Pro.

Charge Your Devices While Transferring Data

Aside from transferring data, the Max 208 will also recharge your gear. If you plug it into the appropriate Thunderbolt 4 port, it can quickly recharge your laptop with its 85-watt power output.

However, the other Thunderbolt ports can also output 15 watts, allowing you to juice up your other devices (although rather slowly) while transferring data. We also tested the USB-A ports and found that they could deliver up to 5 watts, so you don’t need external power for low-power devices you plug in.

When we sum the total maximum output of all the ports, the Revodok Max 208 can deliver 145 watts—close enough to the 140-watt capacity of the included power brick.

Will the Revodok Max 208 Work With Your Computer?

The Revodok Max 208 will work with any Thunderbolt 4 device and is backward compatible with Thunderbolt 3. This means the dock will work with any device with Thunderbolt 3 or 4 compatibility.

It also worked with my Samsung Note10+ and my wife’s Z Fold5, transferring video data for my devices with an Alt DP mode. However, it can only support a single external monitor for these non-Thunderbolt devices.

According to Ugreen, the Max 208 is compatible with the following devices: MacBooks with macOS 11.4 or above, Dell XPS, and Microsoft Surface Pro. However, it’s not compatible with the 2018 Mac mini powered by Intel.

What We Missed on the Max 208

Although the Revodok Max 208 gives your laptop seven extra physical connections, we missed out on a couple of ports we expected to see at this price range. For one, the 208 doesn’t have an SD card slot, so we do not recommend this if you frequently work with these external media.

Furthermore, it doesn’t have HDMI or DisplayPort. So, you must rely on a USB-C to HDMI or USB-C to DisplayPort cable or monitors with USB-C plugs.

Should You Buy the Revodok Max 208?

The Revodok Max 208 is an excellent dock for users with thin and light laptops who need more ports than what’s available on their device. At the cost of just one Thunderbolt 3 or 4 port on your laptop, you’ll get 85-watt fast charging, three extra USB-C ports, two of which can output displays, three additional USB-A ports, and an RJ45 jack for a physical internet connection.

You should buy this dock if you have a lot of peripherals, use two or more displays, and prefer the reliability and speed of a LAN connection. For example, you could attach a gigabit ethernet connection, two external displays, and a high-speed external drive at the back while plugging in your mouse and keyboard at the front. This would leave you with an extra USB-A port up front.

However, if you frequently work with removable media (as photographers and videographers do), this won’t work, as you have no place to plug in an SD card. That means you’ll need another hub with an SD card slot, which is a hassle—you’ll be better off investing in a dock with one already built in.

Ugreen Revodok Max 208 Thunderbolt 4 Docking Station

$190 $280 Save $90

The Ugreen Revodok Max 208 adds six more USB ports and a physical LAN connection. It’s perfect for adding ports to a thin and light laptop, making it more productive.

Are you having a hard time cleaning your Mac properly? This shouldn’t be a tedious process as long as you have the right equipment. Here, we’ll discuss how you can easily keep your Mac’s keyboard, screen, and chassis free from dust, dirt, and grime.

To clarify why you need an app to keep your keyboard clean, modern Macs turn on when you press any key on the keyboard, and in my experience, this usually accidentally triggers an activity while you’re cleaning.

To overcome this, I recommend KeyboardCleanTool. Its function is quite simple. The click of a button turns off all keyboard input on your Mac, allowing you to bring in any tools and get to cleaning. My tools of choice are a damp cloth and a mini brush.

Download:KeyboardCleanTool (Free)

A Mini Brush to Whisk Away Debris

After wiping down the keyboard, I suggest checking for debris beneath the keys, in the ports, or around the hinge. To help with this, I recommend using a mini brush set (pictured above). It’s one of the best keyboard cleaners, simple yet effective, and, not to forget, quite cost-effective.

Debris, like food crumbs or small bits of lint, can often cause mechanical failures, so it is best to keep them away from the nooks and crannies of your Mac.

A Microfiber Cloth to Bring Shine to the Display

Last on this list is a microfiber cloth that you can use for both the keyboard and display. You can buy it for cheap on Amazon if you don’t have one already. While wiping down a keyboard is fairly simple, you should exercise more caution when trying to keep the display clean.

First, ensure you’re using a clean microfiber cloth or at least a clean side of one. Next, once you start wiping, maintain straight movements from one side to the other. Avoid swirling the cloth, as this can lead to micro scratches.

If you notice a deposit on the screen that a dry microfiber cloth could not remove, dampen a part of your microfiber cloth with water or a screen cleaning solution. This should help buff out the mark. Follow this with a wipe from the dry side of the cloth.

With these simple steps, you can stay on top of any dirt and grime that may build up. You should have no trouble keeping your Mac’s keyboard, display, and chassis clean for the foreseeable future.

Not everyone will love what Microsoft puts into Windows. In fact, several features have caused a great deal of division and debate among users. We are going to look at five of them that Microsoft eventually removed.

1 Windows 10: Timeline

The idea behind Timeline, a window that allows you to access your recently opened apps, documents, and websites, seemed innovative. However, some users didn’t like it because it felt redundant. There was no need to use Timeline when many apps that supported it, like Word, Excel, and Edge, had built-in features to open recent files and websites.

The biggest turn-off was when Microsoft removed cross-device syncing. This feature uploads your activity history to your Microsoft account, allowing you to access recently used items on devices linked to the account. With cross-device syncing, you could start working on a Word document on your desktop or Android device and pick up where you left off on your laptop.

However, with its removal, even many who vouched for Timeline as a great productivity tool found it to be a former shell of itself. Timeline was eventually deprecated in 2021, and it did not make its way to Windows 11.

2 Windows 10: Cortana

Cortana received a lot of criticism for not being as accurate as Siri, Alexa, and Google Assistant when interpreting voice commands. Couple that with its lack of third-party integrations (other apps couldn’t take advantage of Cortana’s voice assistant shortcuts), and making a case for it was quite hard.

Some users also didn’t see the need for a voice assistant on Windows since it was usually faster to find what you needed using your mouse and keyboard. With Cortana’s shortcomings, being pre-installed in Windows 10 made it even more polarizing. Users didn’t appreciate having the feature forced on them. It also couldn’t be disabled and was always listening, which raised privacy concerns.

Eventually, Microsoft allowed users to disable Cortana and no longer urged people to use it.

3 Windows 8: Live Tiles / The Metro Interface

People found the Metro interface difficult to get used to. It was touchscreen-focused, which was not intuitive for desktop users, especially since touchscreen laptops didn’t take off the way some expected. While those with a Windows tablet or touchscreen laptop found it user-friendly, it was frustrating to use without touch input.

For anyone who disliked the Metro design, Live Tiles didn’t help. They were meant to display real-time information, including news, weather, and notifications. However, they didn’t work as advertised and had a noticeable performance impact.

4 Windows 7: The Aero Theme

The Aero theme, which Microsoft introduced with Windows Vista and carried over to Windows 7, made windows, the taskbar, and other UI elements semi-transparent. App windows also had glasslike borders, live previews, and fluid transition animations. The theme’s slickness made Windows 7 enjoyable to look at and use, so why did some users hate it?

Well, everything that made the Aero theme great was graphically demanding for many computers at the time. People who didn’t have a great CPU and GPU had a terrible time with it. Luckily, you could disable the theme.

5 Windows XP: The Classic Theme

When Microsoft released Windows XP with all its enhancements and improvements, those coming from Windows 95, 98, and 2000 were glad it included the classic theme. However, others considered the minimalistic design simple, bland, and dated, even though it was better for performance.

The classic theme divided those new to Windows and those who came from previous versions. New users liked the vibrant and modern design of the default theme. The people who upgraded from prior versions found it childish and unprofessional—many even said it looked like a Fisher-Price toy.

6 Windows 98: Active Desktop

Active Desktop was a feature that allowed users to render web pages and other HTML content on the desktop. Some people didn’t like it because it was resource-intensive and impacted performance, causing the computer to become sluggish or even freeze and crash.

Of course, while some disliked these features, there were people who loved them. Regardless, Microsoft has ended support or removed them from Windows because they didn’t catch on. Other examples include Steps Recorder, WordPad, Mail, Calendar, and Windows Subsystem for Android, which future Windows users won’t get to enjoy.

PC fans are among the most important bits of hardware, vital for keeping your system internals nice and cool. They usually just do their job in the background, and you likely won’t even hear them kick in unless your computer is under significant strain.

However, some issues can cause your fans to go full throttle the entire time, which, unless you’re okay with the noise and your fans wearing out, is not a good thing.

Why Your PC Fans Run at Full Speed

There are several reasons why your PC fans might keep running at full tilt for prolonged periods. Assuming everything is alright with your computer, the most common reason is an incorrectly connected or broken fan header.

Alternatively, you may have a software issue keeping your fans locked at full speed. This can range from misconfigured or missing fan control utilities to a program occupying system resources in the background.

Finally, some might think that their fans running faster than required isn’t an issue, but it is. While it’ll keep your PC comparatively cooler, all or even some of your PC fans running at full speed all the time will wear the fans out much quicker, aside from making your PC sound like a jet engine.

How to Stop Your PC Fans Running at Full Speed

Luckily, this isn’t a very difficult thing to fix. With a few checks here and there, you should be good to go.

Check Internal Temperatures and Clean Air Vents

The first thing to do is check your air vents. High-spinning fans are the first indication of a PC running hot. If you’re experiencing high CPU or GPU temperatures on idle or regular loads, there’s a good chance that either of the following is causing it:

• The air vents are blocked off, causing poor ventilation inside the PC case.
• The CPU thermal paste or heatsink isn’t doing its job well.
• Issues with the CPU or GPU fan itself.

In any case, overheating internal components are not good. While there’s bound to be some heat when running heavy loads, you need to know how hot is too hot for your hardware. Dusting off your fans and air vents should fix the problem to a great degree, while there are other specific fixes for an overheating GPU.

If that doesn’t fix the problem, you can try to reapply your CPU’s thermal paste and GPU’s thermal paste. Remember to clean the old thermal paste off first! You can also reapply thermal paste on some laptop models, but it’s typically a more advanced procedure due to the nature of laptop manufacturing. Your best bet is to complete an internet search for “[laptop name/make/model] reapply thermal paste,” which will give you a good idea if it’s possible with your laptop.

Once you’re back up and running, you can keep an eye on your CPU temperatures to watch out for any such issues in the future.

Check Background Programs

Another reason your fans might be going into hyperdrive is that too many background programs are running on your PC, eating up system resources. This can cause a high system load, causing your fans to spin up faster.

On a Windows machine, the easiest way to tackle the problem is to fire up the Task Manager and look at the background processes running on your system. Close any processes that aren’t system-critical. That should help reduce the load on your PC, slowing down the fans in the process. You could also disable certain background apps in Windows 11 to further reduce the load.

Check Fan Connections on the Motherboard

DC and PWM fans are very different, and depending on which ones you have in your PC, you’ll need to wire them accordingly. Most fans come with a four-pin header allowing PWM (pulse-width modulation) control via software. This ensures your CPU, GPU, and other case fans run according to the computer’s internal temperature.

Check your motherboard to see whether your fans are plugged into the right headers. While the GPU usually controls its fan modulation, your CPU fan needs to plug into the correct header on your motherboard (generally labeled as the CPU fan header). This also holds true for the case fans, regardless of whether you’re using a fan controller or plugging it directly into the motherboard.

If you’re sure all fan headers are plugged in correctly, you can also check your BIOS to see what mode your fans are running in. Some manufacturers set the fans to run fans in DC mode instead of PWM in the system BIOS, meaning your fans will be running full tilt for no reason.

Check Fan Curves

Next, it’s also a good idea to check your CPU and GPU fan curves. Most motherboards or laptops come with some sort of manufacturer system utility software that lets you set fan curves that change the fan speed based on the CPU or GPU temperature.

Alternatively, you can use a third-party tool like MSI Afterburner or Fan Control to manually set fan speeds and create a custom fan curve to ensure they run optimally instead of going full tilt all the time.

Install Manufacturer Software for Automatic Fan Control

Just like you need drivers for different components in your PC, you may need manufacturer software (typically from the motherboard manufacturer) to enable automatic fan speed control. It might not be the case, but installing recommended CPU/GPU or fan monitoring software from your motherboard or laptop manufacturer can save the hassle of downloading multiple third-party programs.

It often comes with built-in presets for fan speed modes, allowing you greater control over your fans at the press of a button. A few examples of such programs include Dragon Center by MSI, Armory Crate on ROG laptops, iCue for Corsair fans, and so on.

Get New Fans

If nothing else works out, you may have faulty fans that require replacing. Hopefully, it doesn’t come to that, as it’s really a last resort. However, like all things in life, your PC hardware ages with time and use, and it might be time for a replacement.

Our guide on choosing the best case fans for your PC is a good place to start, and we’ve also covered the best PC fan controllers should you want to upgrade that at the same time.

With a few simple troubleshooting steps, you can get those fans under control. Monitoring your PC’s fans also gives you a chance to troubleshoot any issues that might cause problems in the future, all while ensuring your PC runs in the best possible state without making a lot of sounds or unnecessarily wearing down your fans.

If your daily work routine involves a constant fight to balance events and tasks, a few simple Google Calendar strategies could come to your rescue. These tips will help you sort the clutter in your Google Calendar and take control of the chaos.

1 Find Things in Your Calendar With Advanced Search

Advanced search is a nifty way to quickly find tasks and events that may be in your blind spot, or which may be buried under all the clutter on your calendar.

1. To use Advanced Search in Google Calendar, click on the magnifying glass search icon.
2. Then click the Search options drop-down arrow to the right of the search box.
3. Filter by keyword, date, location, and people involved to find exactly what you want.

2 Use Colors to Make Things Stand Out

Did you know that you can color-code your events to organize your calendar?

You should definitely use this approach if your Google Calendar is clogged with events. It will help your many tasks stand apart from one another and give an otherwise “flat” workspace some welcome character.

To use colors in Google Calendar, simply right-click on an event and choose a color you like.

You can only pick from a few standard colors, but that should be enough to spruce up your calendar.

3 Quickly Modify Events

Sometimes, plans change and you need to adjust your schedule quickly. Google Calendar’s UI makes this easy, but you need to know how to use it. You can effortlessly drag and stretch events to change their timings.

Move Events Around by Dragging and Dropping

Just been notified of a rescheduled event? You don’t need to open it and start adjusting times, though; just grab the event and drag it to a new time slot to update it.

Extend/Shorten Event Durations by Dragging

If an event will start or end at a different time than initially planned, just drag the appropriate border of the calendar entry to stretch or shorten it.

4 Get a Brief Overview of Events

Sometimes, all you need is a summary glance at an event; you don’t need all that information bogging you down. You can do this quickly by switching to Schedule view (previously called Agenda view) to get a brief outline of your events.

To turn Schedule view on, click on the drop-down beside the gear icon and select Schedule.

Working in this view can give you productive information on the meetings and tasks for the day. That is why it is so important to create an efficient meeting agenda in Google Calendar.

5 Create Tasks on Google Calendar

Think of a task on your Google Calendar as a sticky note that you attach to your whiteboard or computer screen in real life. It serves as a way to remind you of something that you need to get done.

The great thing about tasks is that you can bundle together reminders that fall under the same category or that you set toward a specific goal.

How to Create a Task

Creating a task is similar to creating an event. Here’s how:

1. Click on an empty slot in your calendar, on the day you wish to add a task to.
2. In the window that appears, click on Task.
3. Finally, add a description to serve as a reminder. You can even mark it as an all-day task and set it to repeat at intervals.

You can view a list of all your tasks by clicking the tasks button to the left of the Google waffle menu (the 3×3 dot grid) or from the side panel.

6 Restore Deleted Events

Have you ever deleted an important event by mistake, only to have to re-create the item from scratch? With this tip, you shouldn’t need to do that ever again.

The next time your cat runs across your keyboard and accidentally deletes a calendar event, you can recover it like this:

1. Click on the Settings option at the top.
2. Select Bin. This houses a list of all your deleted events.
3. Hover over the event you want to restore and click on the restore option that appears.

Sorting through the disorder that is your schedule need not drain every ounce of your mental energy. Plan your week properly using Google Calendar to get on top of your meetings and events.

Planning to take a vacation from work? Here’s how to set “Out of Office” on Microsoft Teams so your co-workers know you’re away.

Especially if you’re a Mac user, additional Thunderbolt ports can be used in various ways, like for external monitors and storage. And if you’re looking for a cost-effective option that looks great and won’t take up a lot of space on your desk, the Satechi Thunderbolt 4 Slim Hub Pro is a nice choice.

Satechi Thunderbolt 4 Slim Hub Pro

The Thunderbolt 4 Slim Hub Pro can upgrade your setup without breaking the bank or taking up tons of room on your desk. Along with an upstream Thunderbolt 4 that can provide 90W of power delivery to your laptop or desktop, there are three additional Thunderbolt 4 ports with 15W of downstream power for other devices like a monitor. Additionally, there is a USB 3.2 Gen 2 with up to 10 Gbps data transfer. The hub can be used with both compatible Macs and Windows devices. 

Ports

4 Thunderbolt 4, 1 USB 3.2 Gen 2

USB Power Delivery

90W upstream, 15W downstream

Power supply included

Yes

Max display res.

Single 8K or Dual 4K

Price

$199.99

Dimensions

12.2 x 2.91 x 0.71 in.

Pros

• Compatible with Mac, Windows, iPads
• Three downstream Thunderbolt 4 ports
• Backwards compatible with Thunderbolt 3
• Lower price compared to similiar options
• Won’t take up tons of room on your desk

Cons

• Lack of additional USB-A or HDMI port.
• Metal shell could be prone to scratching if used while traveling

Unboxing and Setup is Easy

Getting started with the Satechi Thunderbolt 4 Slim Hub Pro takes just a few minutes. After unboxing the hub itself, you’ll need to grab the power cords. Since this is a powered unit, the power equipment is large and extensive and actually takes up more room than the hub itself.

Attach the power cord to the plug on the hub and then into the included power brick. The power brick has the actual plug. I had to find a specific place in my desk’s cord management system to place the brick because it was so large—it reminds me of an old-school PC laptop power supply. Though it’s quite large, there is good news. The 150W power supply can output up to 96W of power to the host device, perfect for Mac laptops like the current-generation 14-inch MacBook Pro.

Satechi also includes an almost 3-foot Thunderbolt 4 cable that you can attach directly into your machine. While Thunderbolt hubs like this are mostly favored by Mac fans, you can also use it with a number of modern iPads and some Windows machines. I tested the hub mostly with my 2021 14-inch MacBook Pro with M2 Pro chip.

Just to note, even though it is a Thunderbolt 4 hub, it’s backwards compatible with Thunderbolt 3 and USB-C.

A Beautiful Design That Compliments Your Mac

I usually don’t worry about how something looks on my desk, but the Satechi Thunderbolt 4 Slim Hub Pro just looks great. The top, bottom, and sides are covered with a space gray aluminum that closely matches the same color of various Macs.

On the bottom are four, non-skid feet to help prevent the hub from sliding around your desk with just a bit of movement. Both of the longest sides, where the ports are located, are covered with a similar black material. Sloping down from the top are chamfered sides.

Overall, the hub is 12.2 inches long, 2.91 inches long, and just 0.71 inches deep. It weighs 8.5 ounces. So if you can find a spot for the power cord, the hub won’t take up tons of space on a desk. Since I don’t have a dedicated office space at my home, my desk is very small and tucked into the side of a living area, so was really nice to use the Satechi hub without having to rearrange and remove items from my desk.

The hub is even small enough that it shouldn’t be a huge burden to take with you while traveling, with one caveat. Make sure to keep any sharp items away from the aluminum as I suspect it might easily scratch if it rubs up against a set of keys or something else sharp.

Powerful Thunderbolt Ports

On the front of the dock is the upstream Thunderbolt 4 port that can provide up to that 96W of power along with a maximum of 40Gbps of data.

Next to it is the USB 3.2 Gen 2 port provides a maximum of 10 Gbps. It’s also backwards compatible with older USB-A devices. I would have liked to have seen the port be moved a bit further from the upstream Thunderbolt 4 connector. When trying out a wide variety of different devices, some of my chunkier USB cords and a larger USB thumb drive were a very tight fit because of the port’s proximity to each other.

Finally, on the far right is a power button that turns green to let you know the hub is on and active.

On the other side of the hub is the power outlet for the brick and three downstream Thunderbolt 4 plugs that can provide up to 15W of power each. That should be enough to fast charge your iPhone with MagSafe connector.

All of the downstream connectors can also be used for video output. On the Mac, you can use dual 4K displays at 60Hz or a single 6K display at 60Hz. Windows is a bit better with dual 4K displays at 60Hz or a single 8K display at 60Hz.

Only one external display is supported on a Mac with the base-level M1/M2/M3 processor. That’s a disappointment, as one of the best use-cases for a hub like this is for a dual-monitor setup.

Works Well and Doesn’t Heat Up

I’ve used the Satechi Thunderbolt 4 Slim Hub Pro for around two weeks with my MacBook setup and haven’t experienced any issues. I used the hub for a wide variety of tasks like device charging, using a variety of peripherals like printers and hard drives, and with my main 38-inch Dell 4K display.

The connection to my display worked well without any flickering or other issues sometimes seen with Thunderbolt hubs. I used the hub to charge my MacBook Pro, and it charged just as fast as with Apple’s 96W adapter.

Another issue, sometimes found on Thunderbolt hubs, is that they can become warm or even hot to the touch when charging devices or during a large transfer. I previously used an older Thunderbolt 3 hub that became so hot, I was afraid my hand might have been slightly burned.

But that’s not the case with Satechi’s option. It’s designed to dissipate and regulate heat and operate between 86 and 122-degrees Fahrenheit during use. At least in my testing, the hub got mildly warm at most, nothing near the top of its range.

My only other small issue after testing, is that I had a bit of a hard time orienting the hub correctly because the usable Thunderbolt plugs were on the back of the dock. I would have loved to have seen the power cable plug placed with the single upstream and USB 3.2 port instead. That would make it easier to access the plugs without having to deal with the power cord snaking on my desk.

Should You Buy the Satechi Thunderbolt 4 Slim Hub Pro?

If you’re looking for a traditional hub with tons of legacy ports, a SD card slot, and HDMI, the Satechi Thunderbolt 4 Slim Hub Pro definitely isn’t for you. With only a single USB-A port, you’ll have enough room for a single device like a keyboard, mouse, or hard drive. Most likely, you’ll need to spend a bit more for something like a more powerful, and expensive, docking station.

But if you’d like a modern hub with tons of Thunderbolt 4 ports, and power to charge up pretty much any laptop and other devices, the Satechi is a nice option that doesn’t cost tons. It looks great on any desk, and it is small enough to pack up for travel easily. Just make sure to find a secure place for it in your travel bag so the beautiful exterior doesn’t get scratched.

Satechi Thunderbolt 4 Slim Hub Pro

The Thunderbolt 4 Slim Hub Pro can upgrade your setup without breaking the bank or taking up tons of room on your desk. Along with an upstream Thunderbolt 4 that can provide 90W of power delivery to your laptop or desktop, there are three additional Thunderbolt 4 ports with 15W of downstream power for other devices like a monitor. Additionally, there is a USB 3.2 Gen 2 with up to 10 Gbps data transfer. The hub can be used with both compatible Macs and Windows devices. 

Ports

4 Thunderbolt 4, 1 USB 3.2 Gen 2

USB Power Delivery

90W upstream, 15W downstream

Power supply included

Yes

Max display res.

Single 8K or Dual 4K

Price

$199.99

Dimensions

12.2 x 2.91 x 0.71 in.

Smartphone cameras have evolved significantly since their early iterations, but they’re still markedly behind DSLRs and mirrorless cameras. To truly compete with more professional devices, these are the features that smartphone cameras need.

1 More ISO Options

While you can take good photos with your smartphone in low-light conditions, it’s much more difficult than during the day. The best way to control lighting on a camera is via ISO, but smartphone cameras are often severely lacking in this area.

If I use my Fujifilm camera as an example, I can boost my ISO all the way to 12,800. Even when I had an old Nikon DSLR, I could increase my ISO to 25,600. Granted, I rarely go above 1,000 when using my camera, but the option gives more flexibility when shooting in low light.

While you can adjust the brightness, many smartphone cameras don’t provide the option to change your ISO. For this reason, people who want more customization over their photography will still look to DSLRs and mirrorless devices.

If you’re new to photography, you can learn all about ISO here.

2 Larger Sensors

Smartphone manufacturers often talk about how many megapixels their cameras can take images in. But while megapixels play a role in getting good pictures, they’re not as essential as you might think. The camera sensor will have a bigger influence on your picture quality.

Camera sensors are where the light bounces off and generates an image. You can usually see your DSLR sensor on your camera body when you remove the lens. You’ll notice that the sensor is relatively large, and often much more so than what smartphones can offer.

Because camera sensors are bigger, more light can enter—as a result, you often get better photos. Smartphone camera sensors will need to become bigger if they want to truly compete with DSLRs, but manufacturers will encounter challenges with device size and space to make this a reality.

The many different types of digital camera sensors differ significantly. Understanding these will help you choose a better camera if you want to go that route.

3 Better Control Over White Balance

Another common annoyance with smartphones is that you have nowhere near as much control over the white balance as you would with a DSLR camera. If you need a refresher, see our guide on white balance—essentially, it’s how warm or cool your picture looks. Ideally, you want the whites in your images (e.g. paper) to actually look white, hence the name.

When you use a DSLR camera, you can often choose a Kelvin number to nail the white balance. Moreover, you have different presets to pick from—such as cloudy and daylight. Most smartphone cameras offer neither of these, which means you have to put all of your trust in your device to hopefully get the shot right.

The best way to edit the white balance in your smartphone photos is by using editing software like Adobe Lightroom. You can also edit the warmth in your native photo editing app after taking the picture. Nonetheless, being able to control your white balance when taking the photo typically produces much better results.

4 More Shooting Modes

Modern smartphone cameras offer multiple filters, just look at the numerous iPhone camera filters. They’ve also started offering more shooting modes, but smartphones are better for videos than photos in this respect.

When I use my purpose-built camera, I can shoot in Auto, Manual, Shutter Priority, and Aperture Priority modes. These diverse options mean that I have much more control over my pictures.

You can still increase the quality of your smartphone photos without investing in an expensive camera, but it would be much easier to take great pictures if more shooting modes were available.

5 Better Shutter Speed Control

Shutter speed is one of the most important aspects of photography, and it often determines whether an image is blurry or not. But while you can control the aperture on some smartphone cameras, it’s often impossible to control the shutter speed manually. The only real exception is when you get to choose whether you want a longer timer for low-light images.

Because users don’t have much control over shutter speed, it’s more difficult to take better pictures in conditions where adjusting the shutter speed is necessary. For example, you may want a slower shutter speed when taking pictures of sports.

If smartphone cameras don’t make this feature more widespread, their chances of competing with DSLRs are virtually non-existent.

6 Better Zoom Image Quality

If I were to have one particular gripe with smartphone photos, it would undoubtedly be the zoom image quality. When I use my iPhone, the quality deteriorates significantly after around 1.5 (and even more so as you get closer to and beyond 2x). The reason is that smartphones, unlike cameras, don’t have variable optical zoom.

On the flip side, I have a 16-80mm lens on my Fujifilm camera, and the image quality is still fantastic as you get toward the 80mm mark. I see absolutely no reason why I would use my smartphone to take zoom images (unless I don’t have my main camera with me).

There’s no disputing that many modern smartphones have pretty good image quality for wide-angle shots. But sometimes, we can’t move closer to our subject and would rather zoom in. It would be nice to do that without the picture quality dropping so much, especially when cropping still seems to deteriorate how the image looks more than on a DSLR camera.

7 More Options for Shooting in RAW

While editing JPEGs is fine in many cases, your options are much more limited than if you worked with RAW files. More smartphones let you shoot in RAW than was once the case, but it’s still quite rare to find a device with this option.

Almost every DSLR lets you shoot in RAW, meaning that you have more detail to work with if you want to edit your images. So, while there are some situations in which you should shoot JPEG instead of RAW, people will still buy DSLRs if they want this feature.

Even for the casual shooter, smartphone cameras still have limitations that a DSLR would solve. The lack of image quality when zooming, limited customization controls, and smaller sensors mean that purpose-built cameras still often reign supreme. Whether smartphone manufacturers can compete with DSLRs depends on multiple factors, such as dealing with the smaller sizes of their devices and a lack of specialty in this area.

With the recent release of the MSI Claw, handheld gaming enthusiasts are eagerly awaiting to see if Intel Arc hardware can revolutionize the handheld gaming scene by delivering a meaningful boost in performance or efficiency. Positioned to challenge established devices like the Lenovo Legion Go and ASUS ROG Ally, the MSI Claw’s biggest selling feature lies in its utilization of an Intel chip, rather than the customary AMD variants that have dominated the market for years.

Boasting beefier and newer specs compared to its competitors, on paper at least, this should be a slam-dunk victory for MSI and Intel. However, early testing has shown inconsistency in this device’s performance and suggests that this may need more time to bake. Will the MSI Claw be the game-changer we’ve been waiting for, or will it serve as a cautionary tale of Intel’s unpreparedness to enter the handheld gaming arena?

An Uphill Battle

The short answer: it’s complicated. Going toe to toe with its closest competitor, the ASUS ROG Ally, the Claw, in many ways, these feel like identical devices. Both use the same 7-inch IPS display and their button layout is extremely similar. While the Claw is slightly larger and heavier, in hand it’s hardly noticeable. After about 15 minutes of playtime, however, I quickly realized that the Claw managed to stay cooler to the touch and had quieter fans under full load. My first impressions were very positive.

The MSI Claw shows most promise in games like Gotham Knights, where it outperforms the ASUS ROG Ally by a significant amount, as well as a desktop replacement where I could easily multi-task and forget I was using a handheld. However, as of right now, as a gaming-first device, in many popular titles like Red Dead Redemption 2, it trails behind by about 5-12 FPS (frames per second) in most presets, while in games like Shadow of the Tomb Raider, the Claw at best matches the performance of the ROG Ally.

Adding to the uncertainty is the lack of support for Intel XESS in many games. Similar to its AMD counterpart, this feature optimizes gaming performance by dynamically adjusting resolution and settings in real-time to increase your FPS. However, not all games have implemented support for Intel XESS, further leading to an AMD performance advantage in many titles.

On top of this, there are a few titles, like Batman Arkham Knight, which fail to properly identify Arc graphics and will not load without a level of troubleshooting which your average gamer probably doesn’t want to go through. In many ways, the Claw feels like a beta with the potential for greatness, but in its current state, it’s asking gamers to bank on future performance improvements with better driver and game developer support. Considering Intel Arc Graphics is barely two years old now, this hardly comes as a surprise.

Fixes could come, but how soon and how significant will they be? If you want to enjoy all of your favorite titles – right now – the Claw’s is either really good or underwhelming. While recent driver updates have provided more consistent frame rates with fewer random dips, Intel Arc still has a long way to go.

Configurations

The MSI Claw is available in three configurations, each equipped with a 7-inch 120Hz Full HD display and 16GB LPDDR5 6400MHz RAM. The entry-level model, priced at $699, features the Intel Ultra 5 135h chip and 512GB of SSD storage. For $749, you jump up to the Intel Ultra 7 155h chip, promising enhanced performance. For $799, storage increases to 1TB. At this time, you must select the Ultra 7 chip if you want more storage out of the box without doing the upgrade on your own.

Speaking of upgrading, while usually a simple task, with Claw you first need to remove the fans and heatsink in order to access the SSD which is located behind. MSI is usually known for its more user-friendly upgradability, so this comes as a surprise, and for most users, you’re better off getting the 1TB configuration from MSI than doing this yourself.

Comparatively, the top-tier AMD Z1 Extreme 1TB Lenovo Legion GO retails for $749, while the ROG Ally offers maxes out at 512GB for $699. Given the MSI Claw’s newer hardware, its pricing is justified. However, given the frequent sales on these older models, the Claw finds itself in a tricky spot. Currently, the maxed-out ROG Ally is available for just $599. Even if you only occasionally game on the go, the Ally is hard to pass up at this price.

In the box, alongside the MSI Claw itself, you’ll find a 60W charger which is the same found with many of MSI’s smaller laptops. Overall, it is less compact than the one found with the ROG Ally, but I prefer having a cord go from the brick to the wall instead of plugging it in directly so that you don’t have to worry about it falling off, especially with less secure outlets.

Just as with the Ally, the Claw offers a single USB-C port, forcing you to choose between charging or using an accessory unless you have a separate hub. MSI will be releasing the Nest Docking Station for $79 sometime in the summer. This will give you full-size HDMI 2.0, USB-Type A, and extra USB-C ports, effectively transforming the handheld into a desktop setup.

While alternative USB-C docks and hubs offer similar functionalities at a lower price point, enthusiasts seeking the official branded MSI experience, complete with cradling the Claw upright, may find the Nest Docking Station to be a solid choice.

Do You Want Windows 11?

Beyond hardware concerns, there’s another major hurdle to overcome: Windows 11. Like other Windows handhelds, the MSI Claw is held back by the limitations of its operating system. Windows 11’s lack of touch optimization makes navigating menus and executing tasks a cumbersome experience. The virtual keyboard often fails to appear when needed, and performing basic functions feels clunky and unintuitive.

These usability issues takeaway from the overall gaming experience, leaving users longing for the simplicity of a traditional mouse and keyboard setup. The software experience plays a big role, and while this is no fault of the Claw, instead it falls on Microsoft to significantly overhaul its UI if it wants mobile gaming to be taken more seriously, this is why so many people love the Steam Deck so much, despite its far weaker hardware.

Design: Somewhat Familiar

Right away, the MSI Claw looks like a blacked-out version of the ROG Ally. The Claw weighs 676 grams, which is almost 70 grams heavier than the Ally’s 609, but a good amount lighter than the much larger 8″ Lenovo Legion Go which weights 854 grams with its controllers or 650 grams without. Switching back and forth between the Claw and the Ally, I wasn’t able to feel the weight difference much. The deeper controller grips might give you more of that locked-in experience you get with a traditional X-Box or PlayStation controller, whereas the Ally feels slightly smaller, but I find both equally enjoyable to use.

Where it mostly differs is with its grated cooling vent system on the back, which not only makes the Claw look more “gamer”, it actually translates to a much cooler playing experience even with longer sessions with its hardware maxed out. You can also find subtle red stripes on the back along with the dragon logo and its two customizable buttons. It’s not until you look closer that you realize the actual cutouts for the fans’ cooling take up much less space and that the rest is purely for aesthetics. Where these grates seem to make the most difference, however, is on its top where you can see the internals of the device when looking through them. At the top as well, MSI includes the power/fingerprint reader, a MicroSD card reader, USB-C Thunderbolt 4, 3.5mm Combo Audio Jack, and a volume rocker.

The similarities to the Ally carry over to the front as well, where we also find nearly the same exact button and control layout. A few minor differences include the Ally using colored XYBA buttons which pop nicely against its white body whereas the Claw opts for a more subdued black and grey scheme. The Claw’s joysticks feel like a harder plastic whereas the Ally uses a softer rubber which I prefer.

The Claw uses a 7-inch 120Hz Full HD IPS display that looks decent indoors with very solid blacks. It’s best for playing indoors and really doesn’t hold a candle compared to the Stead Deck OLED, which is on a completely different level, offering significantly better brightness and contrast.

Staying Cool

One area where the Claw shines most is in its ability to keep its cool during longer gaming sessions. While both devices get hot, compared to the Ally, the Claw seems to be doing a better job at dissipating heat away from its side controllers and towards its central exhausts, resulting in a noticeably cooler experience.

In terms of battery life, the Claw boasts a larger 53Whr battery, offering extended usage for general tasks like web browsing and video streaming. With the Claw, you can expect around 30 minutes or more of usage on a single charge compared to the Ally’s smaller 40Whr battery.

However, when it comes to gaming, which I expect is what most of you care about most, the Claw’s larger battery is offset by its more power-hungry Intel chip, resulting in a maximum runtime of about 1.5 hours in most games at high performance. In contrast, the Ally manages to squeeze in an additional 20 to 30 minutes of gameplay before needing to recharge. On a positive note, the Claw impresses with its faster charging capabilities, making it one of the fastest handhelds to reach a full charge from 0% in a little under 1 hour and 15 minutes.

Gaming Performance

Despite its higher price tag compared to the Ally, its actual gaming performance often falls behind or at best matches its counterpart. In titles like Batman: Arkham Knight, the Claw is nearly identical to the Ally once that patch was installed. However, in games like Red Dead Redemption 2 and Shadow of the Tomb Raider, the Claw trailed behind by about 5 to 12 frames per second and 2 to 5 frames per second, respectively.

While this isn’t too significant, I found Red Dead 2 to be the perfect example of a title that felt much smoother and more enjoyable to play when I could consistently hit 40-45fps on the Ally compared to the Claw which more often dipped below 30 fps and experienced ongoing frame timing issues.

Similarly, it’s here that I noticed another more significant issue. In titles like Red Dead 2, the Claw’s full 8-GB of V-RAM isn’t recognized in the game’s settings, instead thinking it has 256 MB only. There were a few times when I went to increase the game’s visual presets to Normal or High where it would automatically crash when I tried to apply them. This was an inconsistent experience, as I at times could successfully benchmark the game at these more demanding presets, while other times I would have to restart and try again.

Interestingly, Gotham Knights emerged as a standout title where the Claw showcased better performance, reliably hitting 70 to 75 frames per second compared to the Ally’s lower 40s. While this may seem like a promising advantage, it’s essential to consider personal preferences in game selection. For the reviewer, Gotham Knights might not be a preferred title, thus diminishing the significance of this performance boost.

Should You Buy the MSI Claw?

While the MSI Claw holds promise with its Intel Arc, it faces challenges in delivering a seamless gaming experience. As Intel continues to refine its drivers and developers optimize their games for Intel XESS and the new hardware, the MSI Claw may yet realize its full potential. In general, MSI tends to be one of the best choices for performance per dollar.

Even with some promising results, overall, the Claw isn’t there yet. With so much desire to prove themselves in the gaming space, I imagine Intel is going to be putting a lot of effort into improving this generation of Arc. For now, expect the usual shortcomings as an early adopter playing a balancing act between your games, either running really well or facing a bunch of hiccups and underwhelming performance.

We probably won’t see a dramatic improvement in the next few weeks, but I have my fingers crossed that in 3 to 6 months we can revisit the MSI Claw and have a much happier ending to this story.

MSI Claw

Does the MSI Claw have what it takes to be a worthy competitor to the ASUS ROG Ally? Intel Arc graphics make their way to gaming handhelds for the first time, but early testing reveals that it isn’t all smooth sailing. This device needs more fine-tuning before it can hit the big league.

If you’re planning to buy Apple’s Magic Keyboard for your Mac, thinking it’s your best option, hold your horses. I’ve used one for years with my MacBook and monitor setup, but besides its sleek profile and Touch ID, I really wish I got something else.

The Magic Keyboard Has No Backlight

When I switched to an M1 MacBook Air and a monitor for my work setup, I also bought a Magic Keyboard to fit it all together. Considering the built-in keyboard had backlit keys, it seemed safe to assume that Apple’s Magic Keyboard would be backlit too. In fact, most modern keyboards have this functionality, as it’s the industry standard.

Imagine my surprise when I realized that it doesn’t have backlit keys. The only explanation I can think of for why Apple went this route is battery life. It’s nice that I only need to charge the Magic Keyboard once a week, and Apple may have built it for that kind of longevity.

However, a good compromise is letting the user choose if they want to sacrifice some of that battery life for backlit keys (just like how you can with the Magic Keyboard for iPad). Or, better yet, allow backlighting when the keyboard is plugged into a power source.

The Keyboard Is Far From Ergonomic

Most modern keyboards let you adjust the tilt to make them more suitable for long typing sessions. As someone who spends several hours daily behind a keyboard, I really appreciate that functionality.

Unfortunately, Apple’s Magic Keyboard for Mac doesn’t allow me to choose the height and tilt I prefer. I’m limited to the subtle (almost flat) incline, which sometimes puts strain on my wrist. It’s not so much that I can’t use it at all, but it’s a mildly annoying problem that crops up after long typing sessions.

On top of that, the keyboard is “compact.” That’s a great word to hear if you’re on the move. But if you plan to use it on your desk and have basketball-worthy hands, you’ll definitely make typos from the cramped arrangement of the keys. It’s even worse if you have the Magic Keyboard without a numeric keypad—the arrow keys are all mashed together.

Since Apple is more dedicated to uniformity and its core, simple design language, I can’t enjoy the advanced ergonomics that other keyboards offer. The Magic Keyboard has no wrist rest, no contoured and split design; it just sits there like a good-looking aluminum slab.

Poor Tactile Response

As much as I like Apple’s move from butterfly switches to the scissor-switch mechanism, there’s still plenty of room for improvement in the tactile feedback department.

Admittedly, it’s because I find myself gaming on my Mac more often than I’d like to admit. I need to feel the actuation point when I press a key so that I don’t have to push it all the way down. Even though the Magic Keyboard has a really short travel distance (about 1mm), the actuation point and the absolute bottom travel distance are indistinguishable.

This can make typing or inputting information slower and generally more strenuous, especially if you’re already used to the best mechanical keyboards with better travel distances. Those keyboards give that audibly satisfying click or bump when you actuate a key without having to push it all the way down.

Zero Customizability

The Magic Keyboard with Touch ID and a numeric keyboard comes only in silver with the option for white or black keys. You can’t change how it looks once you purchase it.

When I first bought it, I thought I didn’t care, but after using it for a few months, I began to feel like the keyboard made my setup too robotic. There were no fun colors or keycaps with cool art on my keyboard, and my work setup looked lifeless and boring.

Overall, the Magic Keyboard pales in comparison to the sheer breadth of possibilities you could have with a custom—or even a pre-built mechanical keyboard. So, if you’re someone who likes to make their keyboard stand out, stay far away from Apple’s offering.

Expensive for What It Offers

I bought Apple’s Magic Keyboard for $179. If you want the one with black keys, it will cost you an extra $20 ($199). That’s pretty expensive for a membrane keyboard, considering I can buy the Epomaker TH80-X we reviewed for $100. That’s a mechanical keyboard with a built-in color LCD screen and a control knob.

Apple doesn’t build Macs to be picky about what keyboards it can use. With the Magic Keyboard, you’re mostly paying for the convenience of having Touch ID. However, I could just use my MacBook’s built-in Touch ID button when I start my session. Of course, it makes more sense if you have a Mac desktop, though.

I’m not saying the Magic Keyboard should be cheap; it has a great build and a firm feel. Apple never makes anything flimsy, which may have added to its cost. But with all the reasons I listed above and the sheer number of options you can get for under $200, I regret choosing this aluminum slab of a keyboard.

Indulging in wanderlust and planning your next vacation is always a fun endeavor. However, it is not without its planning needs. From iPhone chargers to laptop power cords, your devices may not be compatible with the country you are traveling to as electrical outlet design is not universal.

The Satechi 145W USB-C 4-port GaN travel charger is a sleek solution to this common issue that incorporates multiple ports and four different adapters to keep you charged while abroad.

Satechi 145W USB-C C4-port GaN Travel Charger

The Satechi 145 USB-C C4-port GaN Travel Charger provides users with a convenient system to keep travelers plugged in by including adapters for most global electrical outlet formats.

Pros

• 4ports avalible for simultaneous charging
• 3.1 power delivery protocol
• Includes adapters for US, UK, EU, and AU
• Includes travel bag for convenient storage

Cons

• Heavy
• Fixed plug positioning

What Comes in the Box

When venturing into a foreign country, one of the first concerns many seasoned travelers have is device charging capabilities. In a world with a huge dependence on mobile access to the internet when traveling to manage our funds, reservations, directions, and so much more, loss of battery life can be a large issue. For this reason, a reliable travel charger and adapter are a must for any savvy traveler.

Developed by Satechi, the 145W USB-C 4-Port GaN Travel Charger is an excellent choice for those not-so-weary travelers ready to venture out into a new country other than their own.

Offered at a $119.99 price point, the Satechi Travel Charger comes with everything you need to keep your USB-C devices powered within the US, UK, EU, or AU.

Within the box, purchasers will find a complete package including:

• Charging Block (with 4 USB-C ports)
• US Adapter
• EU Adapter
• AU Adapter
• UK Adapter
• User Manual
• Black Mesh Travel Pouch

Additionally, the purchase includes a 30-day return window if needed, as well as a 1-year warranty.

Standout Features

If you are utilizing your smartphone to plot a trip across a foreign country, you will need to ensure your device is chargeable with the proper power adapter. The sleek silver design of this travel charger combined with the utilization of GaN technology and graphene as internal insulators for heat reduction, make for a winning combination.

The Satechi 145 USB-C C4-port GaN Travel Charger allows users to simultaneously charge up to four devices. Speeds vary based on configuration:

• 1 connected device supports up to 140W
• 2 connected devices support up to 100W
• 3 connected devices support up to 65W/30W/45W or 100W/25W/20W
• 4 connected devices support up to 65W/30W/25W/20W (145W total)

When connected to more than one device, the Satechi 3.1 delivery protocol aids in correct power distribution across all connected devices. Set apart from other chargers by this smart delivery protocol, the Satechi Travel Charger automatically adjusts power delivery to best suit the connected devices’ needs in multiple configurations.

Users should note that it is recommended by the manufacturer, that should all four charging ports be in use simultaneously, the largest device should be connected to the PD1 port.

The included travel adapters for the UK, EU, AU, and US are easily interchangeable with the press of a release button. Once pressed, the interchangeable electrical plug adapter piece easily slides free, and another can be quickly clicked into place.

The Satechi Travel Charger boasts a significant list of compatible devices ranging from Apple and Android products, to most Thunderbolt and USB-C devices.

Drawbacks to Consider

Overall, the Satechi 145 USB-C C4-port GaN Travel Charger is an excellent charger for those with multiple devices. However, it is not without its drawbacks.

When packing for an extended trip to a new country, the weight of items becomes an important factor. Unfortunately, travel adapters are notorious for being heavy. While not the heaviest block on the market, the Satechi 145 weighs in at 346g, which is a noticeable weight when carried in luggage.

Additionally, the dimensions of the charger may be tight for some spaces. Especially when considering that the adapter point does not allow for any other configuration or rotation to adapt to outlet locations. The device measures 3.78 x 2.99 x 1.22in making it larger than a deck of cards in both height and width.

It is also important to take into consideration the following device recommendations and limitations set forth by Satechi for optimal performance:

• Certified eMark charging cables (which are sold separately) should be used in conjunction with the Satechi 145 USB-C C4-port GaN Travel Charger.
• When charging a MacBook Pro, in order to reach 140W of charging, a MagSafe3 power cable should be utilized.
• Only the top two USB-C charging ports (PD1 and PD2) have the capacity to reach 140W and will only do so for one device at a time.

Should You Buy the Satechi 145 USB-C C4-port GaN Travel Charger?

No matter where you decide to go next, a Satechi Travel Charger is an invaluable tool along the way. The Satechi 145 USB-C C4-port GaN Travel Charger provides adventurers with a convenient system to stay plugged in by including adapters for most global electrical outlet formats and featuring 4 simultaneous charging ports with a smart power distribution system.

Satechi 145W USB-C C4-port GaN Travel Charger

The Satechi 145 USB-C C4-port GaN Travel Charger provides users with a convenient system to keep travelers plugged in by including adapters for most global electrical outlet formats.

Do you often find your iPhone’s display to be a bit too small for watching content? You can easily overcome this problem by connecting your iPhone or iPad to a TV. Here, we’ll explore all your options.

Connect an iPhone or iPad to Your TV Wirelessly

If you want to connect your iPhone or iPad to a TV wirelessly, the easiest way is to use AirPlay. However, you’ll need to check if your TV supports AirPlay to take advantage of this method.

The Apple TV is one of the easiest ways to add AirPlay to your TV, but it’s not the only way. Several TV manufacturers make TVs with built-in AirPlay support. These manufacturers include Samsung, LG, Sony, and Vizio.

If you don’t have an AirPlay-supported TV and don’t want to buy an Apple TV, you’re not out of luck. There are AirPlay receivers available that will let you stream to your TV wirelessly and cost less than an Apple TV. Take a look at our roundup of cheap AirPlay receivers for a few recommendations.

Once your TV is ready to stream AirPlay, the rest of the process is fairly easy. Most popular streaming apps include support for AirPlay. In any of these, choose what you want to watch, then tap the AirPlay icon—stylized with a rectangle and an arrow along the bottom edge.

You may see a few options depending on how many AirPlay-ready devices you have in your home. However, you should be able to recognize your TV easily by its name.

Now, one caveat of this approach is that not every iPhone or iPad app supports AirPlay. In such cases, you can typically mirror your iPhone’s screen to your TV. But if your TV doesn’t support AirPlay mirroring, you can use the method below.

Connect an iPhone or iPad to Your TV via HDMI

You need a couple of things to connect your iPhone or iPad to your TV via HDMI. Firstly, you need a free HDMI port on your TV—a relatively easy ask. In the worst-case scenario, all you’ll need to do is temporarily unplug something else.

Secondly, you will need the right cable or adapter for your iPhone or iPad. If you have an iPhone or iPad with a Lightning port, you can use Apple’s Lightning Digital AV Adapter along with a HDMI cable to connect it to your TV.

However, if you have an iPhone or iPad with a USB-C port, you can either use Apple’s USB-C Digital AV Multiport Adapter, which costs $49, or a USB-C to HDMI cable, which you can buy for cheap on Amazon.

Now, all you need to do is plug the adapter into your iPhone or iPad, then plug an HDMI cable into the adapter, and lastly, plug the other end of that HDMI cable into the HDMI port on your TV.

Note that if your iPhone or iPad has a Lightning port, you’ll be limited to 1080p output. However, if you have an iPhone or iPad with a USB-C port, you can get 4K output, provided the adapter or cable supports the HDMI 2.0 standard.

As you’ve seen, you have multiple options to connect your iPhone or iPad to your TV. That said, depending on the phone or TV you own, you may need to jump through a few extra hoops to get everything working properly.

Since launching in January 2024, Notion Calendar has been a tempting alternative to Google Calendar. Both apps have their pros and cons, but there are some pretty good reasons to consider switching to Notion Calendar. Today, you’ll discover five of the best.

1 Use Dark Mode on All Devices With Notion Calendar

Although you can use Dark Mode in the Google Calendar smartphone app, it’s not available in the web version without plugins or external theming. Even if you switch on Dark Mode for your Mac, only the browser’s outer edges turn dark; Google Calendar itself remains bright.

Notion Calendar, meanwhile, respects your computer’s Dark Mode setting, turning dark when it’s on. You can also use Dark Mode on Notion Calendar for your smartphone.

If you own an Android phone and can enable Dark Mode for Chrome and all Android sites, the fact that Notion Calendar doesn’t have an Android app isn’t a deal-breaker. But for iPhone and Mac users who enjoy using Dark Mode, it could be.

2 Embed Notion Pages in Notion Calendar

You might find it easier to keep everything in one place rather than scattering it across different sources. Notion Calendar lets you embed Notion pages, which might be a compelling enough reason to switch from Google Calendar.

Embedding a Notion page in Notion Calendar on your computer is very simple. Follow these steps:

1. Open Notion Calendar. Then, either create a new event or open an existing one.
2. Go to Docs and links.
3. In the text box, search for the Notion page you want to embed. Alternatively, choose from the list of recent pages when they appear.

3 Sync Your Notion Databases With Notion Calendar

In addition to embedding specific pages in Notion Calendar, it’s also possible to sync your databases within the app. However, like embedding Notion pages in Notion Calendar, you can only perform this action on your computer. Moreover, the databases you sync must have a calendar or timeline view.

1. In Notion Calendar, find your database on the left-hand side and expand it.
2. Select Add Notion database and search for the database you want to sync.

4 Notion Calendar Has a More Streamlined Interface

Besides its unique features, Notion Calendar’s easy-to-navigate user interface is another reason to switch. There’s nothing inherently wrong with how Google Calendar looks, but Notion Calendar’s interface is—from personal experience—more modern and feels more intuitive.

The app fits more onto your screen but does so in a non-intrusive way, and its fonts are easy to read. You can easily navigate to your Notion pages, too. The only downside of Notion Calendar’s interface is that while it’s currently optimized for smartphones and computers, the iPad app is optimized for iPhone screens.

5 You Can Sync Google Calendar With Notion Calendar

One of the biggest challenges when migrating from one app to another is transferring all of your data. However, if you decide to switch from Google Calendar to Notion Calendar, you have nothing to worry about; you can easily add each of your calendars on desktop or mobile devices.

1. Go to the left-hand side. On your smartphone, tap the three-dots icon to expand the toolbar.
2. Select Add calendar account.
3. Tap Connect and enter the details associated with your Google Calendar account.

While Notion Calendar is currently only available on iOS and desktop, users of these devices have plenty of compelling reasons to switch. From a more intuitive experience to syncing Notion pages and databases, the app is especially handy if you already use Notion. Since you don’t need to manually transfer all of your data from Google Calendar, it’s well worth trying out.

You can make your pictures look great with minimal effort using AI photo editing. Today, you’ll discover a range of AI editing tools I used to adjust my images, including auto-enhance, noise removal, and several other features. Let’s jump right in.

I tried two specific features in Google Photos: Auto-Enhance and tweaking the sky. Keep in mind that Google Photos’ AI editing tools require a Google One subscription.

Auto-Enhance

The Auto-Enhance tool in Google Photos is similar to enhancement features you’ll find in most image-editing apps, including Adobe Lightroom and Canva. Here’s the original image that I used Auto-Enhance for in Google Photos:

Now, here’s what the image looked like after using Auto-Enhance:

The changes were subtle. Google Photos added some brightness to the image, and it also looks a bit punchier. Overall, I was happy with these edits.

The changes were also subtle on other pictures I tried Auto-Enhance with, but your mileage may vary as it depends on how much editing is needed for your original image.

Editing the Sky

Google Photos also uses AI to edit the sky in your images. You can choose from seven presets:

• Vivid
• Luminous
• Radiant
• Ember
• Airy
• Afterglow
• Stormy

I used the same picture to try out sky editing. As I took the image on a sunny day, I was curious to see how it’d look with the Stormy filter…

I actually quite liked how Google Photos desaturated and darkened parts of my image. Before trying the tool, I naively thought it was going to replace the sky with a stormy one; instead, they work more like filters.

You still have to think about the colors in your pictures, though. I tried Afterglow next, and the results weren’t so great. However, I believe this filter would work well if you want to improve your nighttime sky photography.

2 Enhance Your Images Using Pixlr AI

Pixlr is one of the best free Photoshop alternatives, and it has several AI tools you can use to enhance your photos. I tried three: Super Sharp, Noise Removal, and Generative Fill. Here’s how each of them worked.

Super Sharp

Below is the original image I edited with Pixlr Super Sharp, and I also used it for the other AI tools we’ll discuss in a moment.

I noticed that Pixlr significantly compressed my image after uploading it, so that’s something to keep in mind. Here’s the result:

Noise Removal

You can remove noise from your pictures with Photoshop and several other tools. If you don’t know how to manually do this, consider starting with Pixlr’s Noise Removal feature.

When I zoomed into my picture, I saw that much of the noise that was previously there was now gone. Still, I personally prefer Photoshop’s tools for both smartphone and DSLR/mirrorless camera images—even if you have to pay for the software.

Generative Fill

You can add generative fill to your pictures in Photoshop, but how does the tool work in Pixlr? To find out, I wanted to create an overcast sky effect in my images and gave Pixlr the following prompt:

Please replace the selected area with an overcast sky. I don’t want a huge storm; just gray clouds.

That didn’t quite work as planned…

I then sought to ask a clearer prompt:

Please replace the sky in my picture with an overcast day

Again, this did not work as I wanted.

Adobe Express has a much better generative fill tool, so I’d recommend using that. I also gave the other Firefly AI features in Adobe Express a spin if you’re interested in using the app.

Luminar Neo is one of the most popular AI photo editing apps, and I tried editing some of my images with numerous of its tools. Unlike the other apps we’ve discussed so far, you have to download an app for Luminar Neo. After doing that, I tried out AI Enhance, GenExpand, and Relight.

AI Enhance

First, I tried the AI Enhance feature in Luminar Neo. Here’s the original image:

Luminar Neo lets you choose how strong you want the enhancements to be. You can also determine how much you want to change the sky. I opted for subtle changes to both:

Having the slider was quite nice, as I’ve often found it annoying that editing apps give you a default change. This time, I felt like I had more control.

Relight

Luminar Neo also has a Relight feature that lets you add brightness to different parts of your image. You get three sliders:

• Brightness Near
• Brightness Far
• Depth

Depth is especially useful for choosing how much of your image you wish to brighten. I made a few slight changes to this picture, focusing mainly on Brightness Far. Here is my result:

The Relight feature worked similarly to the exposure and brightness sliders that you see in Lightroom and Photoshop. I’m not sure that I would use it as a replacement for those unless I made the switch to Luminar Neo. Nonetheless, it’s a helpful feature.

4 Using 1-Tap Enhance in Fotor

1-Tap Enhance is one of Fotor’s free AI editing features, and I was curious to see how it would fare in comparison to Google Photos’ Auto-Enhance. This time, I used this picture:

As you can see below, Fotor’s 1-Tap Enhance was pretty similar to Google Photos. Most of the changes to my image involved brightening. You do have to deal with a Fotor watermark, but you can always crop this out—I’d therefore recommend uploading and editing a picture that you later want to crop anyway.

5 Background Removal With CutOut Pro

If you’re looking for a fast way to remove the background from a photo, consider using CutOut Pro’s background removal tool. All you have to do is upload your image, let CutOut Pro do its thing, and within a few seconds, you’ll get a downloadable file.

You can download your picture in JPEG and PNG. I was pretty satisfied with the result, so I would definitely recommend CutOut Pro for background removal purposes.

AI is a great way to make quick edits to your pictures, such as automatically enhancing them or getting rid of the background. Many are free, and even the paid versions often have free trials. Give each of these tools a try and see what you can come up with.

By openly sharing code, many developers are able to review and improve programs together; this approach has led to remarkable innovations. However, when it comes to antivirus software, “the more eyes, the better” may not hold true.

While proponents have valid arguments, there are several reasons why antivirus programs don’t need to be open source.

Antivirus programs require constant updates to stay one step ahead. Maintaining this relentless pace of vigilance and response through an open-source project presents some hurdles.

Open-source antivirus programs commonly rely on crowdsourced signature databases contributed voluntarily. As a result, they tend to lag behind paid alternatives in rolling out signature and definition updates. For antivirus software to be truly effective, fixes must be implemented and updates deployed within mere days before viruses can spread widely. Expecting an all-volunteer community to deliver fixes and updates regularly and quickly is ambitious.

Additionally, open-source development depends on the unpaid contributions of security experts and engineers. However, these professionals routinely command high compensation in commercial roles, as this income is necessary to earn a living. When the demands of continually monitoring malware threats and keeping definitions fully up-to-date compete with responsibilities from paying jobs, it’s understandable that paid work would take priority over volunteer work.

If the ongoing efforts of volunteers are to be sustained, who will foot the massive bill for intelligence gathering, regular signature updates, and evolving methodologies? Remember that, at the end of the day, the product will be given away for free. Without long-term commercial backing dedicated to this task, meeting the demands of mission-critical protection through an open model seems unreliable.

2. The Cons of Exposing Antivirus Code Outweigh the Pros

A commonly cited advantage of open source is allowing anyone to review and modify the code. However, this transparency presents unique challenges in the context of antivirus software.

By making core detection and removal mechanisms visible in the source code, malicious actors could scrutinize these defenses closely. As with all software, vulnerabilities inherently exist—whether the code is open or closed. However, public access to the source means cybercriminals may have greater and prolonged insight into weaknesses before they are patched.

While open source alone does not birth more vulnerabilities, it changes security dynamics in ways that could hinder antivirus efficacy. These programs rely partly on obscurity to gain ground over evolving threats. Were bugs to become widely known through public review, bad actors could more swiftly circumvent protections. Even after a fix arrives, they may already have workarounds prepared.

Additionally, a 2022 Cornell University study found open source projects sometimes take nearly three weeks after disclosure to release patches—ample opportunity for attacks during that window. Besides, contributions from volunteer communities wane unpredictably over time, possibly resulting in unaddressed risks, vulnerabilities, or threats. For antivirus demands of constant vigilance, “many eyes on the code” may not offset publicity-enabled risks in this time-sensitive domain.

3. It’s Difficult to Maintain High-Quality Code in a Community-Driven Project

Keeping standards optimum across millions of lines of code is a monumental task, even for dedicated teams of paid developers. In an open-source environment where contributions come from volunteers with differing abilities and priorities, ensuring excellence and adherence to best practices across the board presents a significant challenge.

Additional factors, like how promptly vulnerabilities are found and patched, shape the quality of a program’s code over time. Likewise, algorithms and techniques must evolve continuously to counter advancing malware tactics. Maintaining this swift development cycle within an open model is quite difficult.

4 Reasons Why Proprietary Antivirus Solutions Are Better

The closed-source or proprietary model may prove better suited for antivirus software, and there are several reasons why.

1. Commercial Businesses Can Match the Fast-Moving Threat Landscape

Proprietary antivirus companies employ dedicated teams of cybersecurity aficionados, malware analysts, and code craftspeople focused solely on product development, care, and support. This facilitates the rapid analysis of new malware samples, the design of effective detection and removal techniques, and user updates, all with minimal delays.

Open-source projects often rely on volunteers contributing in their spare time. Closed-source projects, on the other hand, have paid employees explicitly tasked with rapidly responding to emerging threats full-time.

Additionally, security research and development demand handsome remuneration. Commercial businesses can fund sizable groups—like Microsoft’s battalions, aimed squarely at fixing vulnerabilities and releasing updates across their platforms. The nature of antivirus protection aligns well with proprietary models built for relentless, acute response to cyberattacks.

2. Proprietary Antivirus Solutions Have Lots More Features

Open-source antivirus software has its place, but most folks don’t realize just how limited these solutions are compared to commercial-grade antivirus. Proprietary antivirus is packed with defenses far beyond signature scanning—features most of us aren’t taking advantage of but absolutely should be.

Proprietary antivirus leads the charge with multipronged defenses that go well beyond mere signature matching. Technologies like behavioral monitoring, application sandboxing, and integrated firewalls form a robust shield against emerging threats like zero-days and sneaky malware.

This approach contrasts open-source options like ClamAV. While handy for basic duties like email scanning, its detection rates and regular signature updates can’t compete. Open-source antivirus mainly sticks to signature databases without extra tactics like heuristic analysis or behavior blocking.

Even affordable commercial players like Comodo offer bundled perks on top of detection—features like web protection, Wi-Fi security, parental controls, and firewalls. Built-in defenses from the likes of Microsoft and Apple Inc. now automate malware removal and routine updates, lessening reliance on third-party antivirus for newly installed systems.

3. The Code Isn’t Revealed, but That’s Not a Disadvantage

When it comes to protecting your devices, transparency is surely a virtue—but without adequate security, what good is visibility into a software’s inner workings? Besides, effective security solutions do not inherently require publicly visible code.

In 1984, while receiving the ACM TuringAward, Ken Thompson said that to trust code, you must write it yourself, as any software could potentially contain inserted vulnerabilities. However, if writing it yourself isn’t possible, you only have to ensure the code’s creator prioritizes protecting your interests as highly as their own.

Open-source proponents argue that widespread independent review strengthens defenses against exploitation, meaning your interests are always protected. However, adequately testing all open-source software can be a challenge. Proprietary advocates thus argue that concentrating responsibility within a single entity—with financial motives to prioritize your interest—provides stronger incentives for diligence.

Under the open model, it’s also simpler to insert harmful code snippets, where any reviewer could compromise security. Of course, bad actors exist on both sides. However, proprietary companies understand that endangering users would destroy their business overnight. So, for critical security tasks like antivirus, a sole for-profit developer who keeps their code private may actually be more aligned with your security needs.

4. There Are Many Proprietary Antivirus Solutions Available

With adequate research and due diligence, you can select a proprietary antivirus that perfectly suits your needs without compromising security. Several antivirus providers have established track records over many years, and their reputations depend on delivering robust protection and timely updates. There are also capable free antivirus programs from Avira, Avast, and others that fuse anti-malware signatures with personal firewalls for robust everyday security. For Linux users in particular, integrated defenses have advanced to the point where third-party antivirus bears minimal added value.

While the open-source model thrives on community collaboration, many closed-source antivirus companies actively solicit feedback through forums, bug-reporting portals, and cooperation with independent research initiatives. For instance, Gen Digital Inc. allows people to report bugs; these reports benefit brands like Norton, LifeLock, Avast, and Avira.

While open-source spurs remarkable innovations, antivirus is better off being closed and proprietary. An open model may work better in other domains, but antivirus demands rapid response, and concentrated responsibility may aid that. Closed-source antivirus providers leverage teams, technologies, and strategic security focus to offer a comprehensive defense against an evolving risk landscape.

For protection against emerging threats, the commercial self-interests of a proprietary security provider could prove the closest alignment with your security needs.

Tired of guessing which app sent you a notification? We’ll teach you how to set custom notification sounds for each app on your Android phone so that you can easily distinguish between important and unwanted notifications.

How to Set a Custom Notification Sound for Specific Apps via Settings

The Settings app on your Android makes it easy to customize notification sounds for apps. However, the steps may vary depending on your phone and the Android version it’s running.

Customize Notification Sounds on Phones Running Android 13 or Older

The instructions below are accurate for Samsung Galaxy phones running Android 13 or older. If you own a Google Pixel or another device that runs stock Android, the steps may differ slightly.

1. On your Android phone, navigate to Settings > Apps.
2. Find and select the app you wish to set a custom tone for.
3. On the app info page, tap Notifications and toggle on the slider button for Show notifications.
4. Choose the appropriate notification category and select Alert. Do note that categories will vary across different apps.
5. On the Notification category page, scroll down and tap Sound. Then, select your desired notification tone from the list.

Customize Notification Sounds on Phones Running Android 14

On Samsung phones running Android 14 (One UI 6.0) or later, here’s what you need to do:

1. Open the Settings app and scroll down to tap Apps.
2. Find and select the app you wish to set a custom tone for.
3. On the app info page, tap Notifications and turn on the Allow notifications toggle.
4. Tap Notification categories and select the alert type for which you want to change the notification sound.
5. Tap Sound and choose your preferred alert sound from the list.

How to Use Your Own Audio Files as Priority Tones

Not satisfied with the default notification sounds on your device? No problem. You can easily record your own audio clips or select songs from your music library to use as custom notification sounds.

Whether you’re a fan of techno beats, classical strings, or ringtones that sound like vintage phones, you can choose a sound that suits your style. Let’s take a look at how to do this.

Step 1: Record Some Realistic Sound Clips

With a little work, you can record some audio clips using the pre-installed voice recorder app on your phone. Once you’ve recorded the audio clip, use a free audio editing app to trim and transform the sound clips to the right length and file type.

After editing the recording to your liking, export it as an MP3 file and add it to your Notifications folder. For our example, we’ll use the free MP3 Cutter and Ringtone Maker app. Here’s how you can edit your audio file:

1. Install and launch the MP3 Cutter and Ringtone Maker app.
2. Upload the recorded audio file.
3. Adjust the Start and End handlebars to trim the clip to the required length. You also have the option of mixing in sound effects and merging audio files.
4. Hit Save and export the file in MP3 format.

Step 2: Set an MP3 as a Custom Alert

If you already have a lot of music files downloaded on your smartphone, you can use them as notification alerts. To do this, cut or trim the audio files using the steps listed in the section above.

Remember, the audio file needs to be stored locally in the Notifications folder within your file manager app. Here’s how to do this:

1. On your device, open My Files or File Manager app.
2. Navigate to Categories > Audio > Music folder(s).
3. Select the MP3 file of your choice and tap Move.
4. Head to My Files > Categories > Audio > Notifications and tap Move here to transfer and store the file locally.
5. Open the Settings app and tap Apps.
6. Select the app you wish to set up a custom alert for.
7. Navigate to the Sound settings (as mentioned in the first section), and you’ll now see the music file added to the list.
8. Tap the file to set it up as your custom alert tone.

How to Manage Notification Alerts With Third-Party Apps

On Android, you also have the option to use third-party apps to set custom notification sounds for different apps. Notification Sound Manager is one such app that lets you upload custom sounds or enable text-to-speech functionality for announcing notifications. You can download it from the Play Store for free.

Here’s how you can use Notification Sound Manager to configure and manage alerts:

1. Install and open Notification Sound Manager on your phone.
2. Give it permission and head to the home page of the app. Then, tap the plus (+) icon in the top-right corner to add a new sound.
3. Choose the app and select the audio file using File Explorer.
4. Tap the floppy disk icon in the top-right corner to save your template.

If you need moments of uninterrupted focus, Notification Sound Manager also lets you disable specific notifications temporarily.

Setting different notification sounds for your apps is an excellent way to customize your notifications. However, if you still find yourself overwhelmed after that, you can try using third-party apps to better manage notifications on your Android device.

Connections requires players to find the connections between 16 words, and place them in four groups of four. If you want some help, we have the solution to Connections for April 28, 2024, along with hints to help you solve it yourself.

SPOILERS AHEAD (CLUES)

Category Clues for Today’s Connections (#322)

Today, as every day, you need to split the 16 words that make up the Connections puzzle grid into four groups of four based on specific categories. It isn’t as easy as it sounds. Fortunately, we’re on hand to help you solve today’s Connections puzzle.

If you want to jump straight to today’s Connections solution, scroll past the next spoiler warning. However, if you’d rather see some category clues designed to help you solve it without giving the answers away first:

• Yellow: “When you really care about something”
• Green: “Whether by accident or on purpose”
• Blue: “Visible background radiation”
• Purple: “A female first name”

SPOILERS AHEAD (CATEGORIES)

Today’s Connections Solution (April 28, 2024)

If those clues aren’t enough, and you’re still struggling to beat Connections #322 without running out of mistakes, here is the solution…

Today’s Connections Categories Without the Answers

• Yellow = “Passionate, as a Feeling”
• Green = “Bang Into”
• Blue = “Analog TV Interference”
• Purple = “____ Mary”

With the categories revealed, you should try to guess which words belong where. There are 16 words in total, with four belonging to each category.

If you are still stuck despite knowing the names of each category, continue scrolling down for the 16 words organized into their respective categories.

SPOILERS AHEAD (SOLUTION)

Today’s Connections Categories Plus the Answers

• Yellow: “Passionate, as a Feeling” = DEEP, EXTREME, FIERCE, INTENSE
• Green: “Bang Into” = BUMP, BUTT, KNOCK, RAM
• Blue: “Analog TV Interference” = FUZZ, NOISE, SNOW, STATIC
• Purple: “____ Mary” = BLOODY, HAIL, PROUD, VIRGIN

What Made Today’s Connections Difficult

Today’s Connections puzzle was made difficult due to the following:

1. The most obvious red herrings here are “snow” and “hail” as two different types of weather, plus “bloody” and “butt” as two different mild curse words. All of these words have different meanings depending on the context being used.
2. Blue is probably the trickiest category, at least for anyone under a certain age who may have never seen an analog TV before. Yes, television static is a trope in old films and TV shows, but even then, knowing four different names for the phenomenon is a push.

Our Top Tips to Beat Connections Every Day

1. Shuffle the words as many times as you need. Shuffling the words around means you’re more likely to spot the connections.
2. Look for differences as well as similarities. The NYT is trying to trip you up, so look for what divides the words with similar meanings.
3. Take your time, and don’t rush into a guess. Connections isn’t a timed challenge, so you have the luxury of planning everything out.
4. Look for common themes over time. The more you play Connections, the more you’ll spot recurring themes cropping up regularly.
5. Tune into the NYT editors’ way of thinking. It’s the puzzle setters you’re competing against, so you need to understand their game plan.

Now that you have completed today’s Connections puzzle (with a little help from your friends at MUO), you should check out some of the other free games from the New York Times.

Wordle is the best-known of them all, and challenges you to find a 5-letter word within six guesses. For every letter you find, you get told if it’s in the correct place, allowing you to whittle down the possible options. If you need help with Wordle, check out our tips and tricks to improve your Wordle score.

There’s also Strands, the newest addition to the New York Times’ burgeoning list of games. Just like Connections, it’s extremely challenging, but in a unique string-the-letters-together way. We recommend you check out our best tips for beating Strands to give yourself a leg up on the daily challenge.

Or, if you’re really only into Connections but want more tips than are offered above, check out our longer list of Connections tips and tricks.

Not all OLED monitors are created equally. Some are better suited for darker rooms, whereas others work well in brighter rooms. So, be careful before you splurge on a new OLED monitor, whether you plan to use it for gaming, work, or media consumption.

OLED Panel Options: QD-OLED and WOLED

Several brands sell OLED monitors today, but only two companies manufacture all these OLED panels: LG Display and Samsung Display. LG Display makes WOLED panels, whereas Samsung Display makes QD-OLED panels.

PC peripheral makers source OLED panels from these two companies and sell them by making their own changes to the monitor’s design, software, etc. But what’s the difference between LG’s WOLED and Samsung’s QD-OLED panels?

Both panels offer all the standard benefits of OLED technology, but they’re manufactured differently, as they vary in panel composition and subpixel structure.

LG’s WOLED uses an OLED layer that emits white light and has a fourth white subpixel on top of red, green, and blue. On the other hand, QD-OLED’s OLED layer emits blue light, which passes through a Quantum Dot layer. This Quantum Dot layer modifies the light wavelength for the red and green subpixels.

As a result, you’ll notice some minor differences in picture quality and color reproduction between these two panels. But when it comes to monitors, there are more noteworthy differences to worry about, which we’ll discuss below.

LG’s WOLED Panels Have a Matte Coating

As of this writing, all OLED panels that use LG’s WOLED panels have a matte coating on the screen. This has been a controversial topic among consumers, as a matte screen coating isn’t ideal for OLED displays; it negatively impacts the picture quality and contrast ratio.

LG’s matte screen coating is a bit harsh, and it can often make the picture appear grainy. Samsung’s QD-OLED panels, on the other hand, typically use a glossy/semi-gloss coating, just like most OLED TVs on the market.

However, LG’s matte coating has its benefits. For instance, if you work in a bright room, like in a studio, LG’s matte coating does an excellent job of minimizing reflections. Monitors that use Samsung’s QD-OLED panels will reflect any light source in front of them. However, this shouldn’t be a problem if the light sources are behind the monitor.

So, it comes down to where you plan to use your OLED monitor. If you plan to use it in a light-controlled room, go for a QD-OLED monitor, as you wouldn’t have to worry about coating grain. Otherwise, a WOLED monitor may be better for you.

Samsung’s QD-OLED Panels Have a Magenta Tint

Although I prefer Samsung’s glossy QD-OLED panels, they’re not perfect. Samsung’s QD-OLED panels have a magenta tint, which is most noticeable when ambient light sources are in front of the monitor. This is due to the lack of a polarizing layer in the panel structure, meaning any ambient light bounces off it.

Therefore, when you watch dark content on a QD-OLED monitor in a bright room, the blacks won’t appear as true blacks even if the individual pixels are off. The monitor’s bezels are far more noticeable, which isn’t the kind of experience you’d want with an OLED display. This isn’t an issue with LG’s WOLED panels, thanks to their anti-reflective matte coating.

However, if light sources are behind the monitor, you’ll struggle to notice the magenta tint. So, in a dark room, they perform just as well as WOLED monitors in terms of black levels.

QD-OLED Monitors Offer Slightly Better Text Clarity

Text clarity is an issue on both types of OLED monitors, especially if you use Windows. That’s because Windows uses a subpixel text rendering technique that suits traditional LCD displays with RGB stripe subpixel layouts.

Unfortunately, both QD-OLED and WOLED panels have different subpixel layouts. WOLED panels use an RGBW stripe layout, whereas QD-OLED displays use a triangular RGB subpixel structure. Since these subpixel structures deviate from the common RGB stripe layout, the text quality will be lower compared to a standard LCD monitor.

On a QD-OLED monitor, you’ll see color fringing on text, with green outlines at the top of the text and pink outlines at the bottom. This is more noticeable at 1440p resolution than 4K, especially when you get closer to the display. On WOLED monitors, you’ll see some shadowing on the left and right edges of text.

From my experience, I disliked the shadowing on my WOLED monitor more. Plus, the QD-OLED monitor handles smaller font sizes better. However, both Samsung and LG have tried to address text clarity issues with their newer generation of OLED panels.

I currently own an Alienware AW3423DW, which uses a first-generation QD-OLED panel, and an Alienware AW2725DF, which uses a third-generation QD-OLED panel. I can confidently say color fringing is less of an issue on the newer panel.

Which Brands Sell QD-OLED and WOLED Monitors?

You now know that Samsung manufactures QD-OLED panels and LG makes WOLED panels. But which brands use Samsung’s panels and which ones use LG’s? Let’s find out.

Brands That Use Samsung’s QD-OLED Panels

Here are the popular monitor brands that use Samsung’s QD-OLED panels, along with the latest models they offer as of April 2024:

Brands That Use LG’s WOLED Panels

Here are the top brands that have used LG’s WOLED panels to date, along with their most recent offerings:

As you can see, Asus is the only company, as of early 2024, that makes both WOLED and QD-OLED monitors. But this may change down the line. If you want to know whether a monitor uses a QD-OLED or WOLED panel, read the product description or spec sheet.

You won’t see the term “QD-OLED” anywhere in the product description of an OLED monitor that uses LG’s panel. LG Display also doesn’t use the term “WOLED” to market its panels.

Which OLED Monitor Is Right for You?

Are you still having a tough time deciding between QD-OLED and WOLED monitors? Let me make this simple for you.

If you use your computer in a dimly lit or dark room and there are no ambient light sources, like 3D light panels, in front of the monitor, buy a QD-OLED monitor without second thoughts. You won’t notice the magenta tint at all, and you’ll appreciate the glossy screen that maintains crystal-clear image quality.

However, if you prefer working or gaming with the lights on or have a window next to your PC, go for a WOLED monitor instead. Its matte coating will minimize reflections, and the screen will remain pitch black even in a bright room. Just make sure you don’t sit too close to the monitor so you don’t notice the coating grain.

The end of platform-exclusive games is nigh, and we’re here for it. While some key IPs are likely to be kept on one console (and/or PC), many will be available to play on whatever platform you choose. And that has to be a good thing. Here’s why…

A Brief History of Platform Exclusivity

For decades, platform exclusives have played a big part in the story of video games. And they have had a hand in deciding which console won each generation.

Console exclusives started in the 1980s, with Atari securing exclusive home console rights to popular arcade games such as Space Invaders and Pac-Man. At this point, the idea was to persuade regular arcade-goers to buy a home console in order to play their favorite titles from the comfort of their sofa and without having to feed a machine with endless quarters. Ironically, you can now buy arcade machines designed for your home.

In the late 80s and early 90s, this platform exclusivity formed around two now-iconic characters: Sonic and Mario. Nintendo and Mario were well-established, but then Sega and Sonic entered the scene. And if you wanted to play the Sonic games, you needed to own a Sega system. And millions duly bought Sega’s consoles as a result.

Once we entered the PlayStation/Xbox era, platform exclusivity became an even bigger part of the story. Both Sony and Microsoft created original IP designed to shift units, as well as paying third-party developers and publishers large amounts of money to secure timed exclusives. And that battle of the exclusives (of all kinds) has persisted ever since.

How Platform Exclusives Are Coming to an End

Thankfully, things are starting to change. In February 2024, in a post on Xbox Wire, Microsoft announced that four Xbox exclusives would also be coming to PS5 and Switch, with more titles to follow. The games currently confirmed to be coming to other platforms are Hi-Fi Rush, Pentiment, Sea of Thieves, and Grounded.

The industry is clearly changing, and Microsoft’s gaming executives are adapting. On an episode of the official Xbox Podcast, Microsoft Gaming CEO Phil Spencer said, “I do have a fundamental belief that over the next five or ten years exclusive games, games that are exclusive to one piece of hardware, are going to be a smaller and smaller part of the game industry”.

Spencer also made the reason for this change clear, saying, “We’re focused on these four games and learning from the experience […] really want to respond to what customers want and what our players and creators are looking for”.

Furthermore, he clearly stated that the era when platform exclusivity was the key to shifting units is behind us, saying, “People think that one exclusive game kind of kicks off the sales of a platform, but the industry just doesn’t really work that way today”.

It isn’t just Microsoft and Xbox either. As a whole, the industry seems to be moving away from platform exclusives, entering an era of platform agnosticism. Essentially, the hardware you use to play games is becoming a secondary concern over the games themselves.

After focusing hard on securing and producing exclusives in the PS4 era, Sony’s lineup of games exclusive to the PS5 has so far been a little lacking. Sure, the COVID-19 pandemic hit game development hard, pushing release dates back by years, but the overall picture is still one of Sony putting less stock in exclusives.

The same is true for Nintendo, which has released games featuring some of its biggest characters (Mario, Pokemon) on smartphones. The company hasn’t yet released a Mario game on a rival console, but that doesn’t mean it never will.

Why Platform Exclusives Are Going Away

So, why are platform exclusives coming to an end? The obvious answer is that they’re no longer the best option available to the companies responsible. The benefits of opening titles up to everyone, regardless of platform, massively outweigh the benefits of keeping titles exclusive to one console. As outlined above, Phil Spencer, someone who should know, said as much.

For Microsoft, the logic is clear to see. In the battle between PS5 and Xbox Series X, the PS5 is winning. The Switch has also outsold the Xbox Series X|S to date, with no hint of that changing. So, not only have Microsoft’s exclusives not shifted units, the company is losing out on potential revenue by not selling software to as many people as possible.

Under those circumstances, it makes more sense from a business point of view to launch games on as many platforms as possible and make money from those sales. Especially when games hardware is usually sold at a loss.

Mobile gaming is also playing a part, with more and more people looking to play games on their smartphones. As is the popularity of Steam and PC gaming. Again, those factors make it less attractive to lock down games to one specific platform and artificially limit the potential audience.

The biggest element driving this change is Xbox Game Pass and the other gaming subscription services that include cloud-based gaming. These essentially mean that you don’t need to own a games console anymore.

This is especially true for Microsoft, as Game Pass Ultimate includes Xbox Cloud Gaming. While currently in beta, this lets subscribers play Xbox games on a range of devices beyond Xbox consoles. This includes phones, tablets, PCs, smart TVs, and VR headsets.

Why I’m Glad Platform Exclusives Are No More

While gamers have all gotten used to platform exclusivity as a kind of default, that doesn’t mean all of us were happy about it. I have owned at least one console in each generation, but couldn’t afford to buy the other consoles released in that generation. And that meant missing out on certain games that were only available on specific platforms.

This led me personally to choose PlayStation over Xbox, as Sony’s exclusives always suited my tastes better. But had Microsoft’s original IP also been available to play on PlayStation, the company would have made money out of me buying Halo, Gears of War, Forza, and others.

The practice of making some games exclusive to one platform is anti-consumer, as it forces gamers to buy multiple consoles to play specific games. And while I can see why it has been standard practice for decades as manufacturers sought to make sure their platform was the essential one, it’s about time we opened gaming up to be more inclusive. And this could start by switching to platform agnosticism.

A video doorbell is a great addition to any smart home that can keep a constant eye on your front door. We’ll help you better decide between the two major types of video doorbells—a wired or wireless version.

How Does a Wired Video Doorbell Work?

Many modern homes have a traditional doorbell which draws power from low-voltage wires installed behind it. A wired video doorbell uses those wires to provide constant power to the doorbell and usually feeds a chime box inside your home. The chime box is what actually makes noise inside the home when the bell is pressed.

Once installed, the wired video doorbell, just like the traditional model, will always have power. That means that when someone approaches or simply pushes the doorbell, you’ll be notified via a companion app or doorbell.

The large majority of wired video doorbells will work automatically with a chime box, so you will always be able to hear your familiar ding-dong when someone rings the bell. Some wired video doorbells work with the existing chime box directly, while others might require installing a small adapter placed inside where the chime wiring is located.

How Does a Wireless Video Doorbell Work?

A wireless video doorbell brings true freedom to your smart home setup. Instead of depending on the existing doorbell wiring, you can place a wireless version pretty much anywhere around your front door.

That’s perfect in many situations where you don’t want to worry about wiring or can’t—like if you’re a renter or in an apartment. Make sure to take a look at other smart home devices that are perfect for rented homes.

The wireless doorbell models take power from a rechargeable battery. In most situations, you can remove the battery to recharge it. Depending on the model, and how much the video doorbell is used, the battery usually lasts a few months.

Advantages and Disadvantages of a Wired Video Doorbell

The largest advantage of a wired video doorbell is the always-on power supply. With that power, you will always know the device is watching over your front door. The only exception is if the power is ever out at your location.

And since the wired doorbell always has power, it will continue to operate and chime when someone presses the doorbell, even if you have some type of internet connection issue.

Some wired doorbells available on the market can provide 24/7 recording because it always has power. That’s not possible with any wireless model as the battery would be drained in just a few days.

Other wired doorbells, like the Ecobee Smart Doorbell, offer many unique smart home integrations not possible with battery power. If you also have an Ecobee Premium Smart Thermostat, when someone presses the doorbell, a live video appears on the thermostat screen. You can also talk with the person at your front door.

There are some disadvantages to wired models as well. The largest is likely the installation process. For an idea on what’s required, take a look at our primer on how to install a Ring Video Doorbell the right way.

As you might have guessed, the process can take some time, especially depending on your DIY and smart home knowledge. You’ll need to turn off power to the doorbell and remove the old model to install a new wired model. Equipment, like a drill and screwdriver, is also required.

The good news is the majority of video doorbell manufacturers like Ring, Arlo, Eufy, and others, provide comprehensive installation guides online or through the companion app needed to see live video. But if the idea of installing electrical wires concerns you, or if you have an older home with known wiring problems, it’s probably best to avoid wired models.

Most electricians can install a wired doorbell, though. But that means you’ll have to pay substantially more. Another downside with wired models is that they are not easy to uninstall, something to consider if you’re planning on moving anytime soon or always want to keep up with the latest and greatest model.

Advantages and Disadvantages of a Wireless Video Doorbell

With a wireless doorbell, the biggest advantage and disadvantage is the battery. Thanks to the battery, you can install the doorbell almost anywhere you’d like around your front door. That makes it much more useful if you don’t want to try to deal with the existing doorbell and wiring, or even if there isn’t a doorbell.

Many traditional doorbells aren’t located in an ideal spot to record video. While some wired models can use assistance from devices like a wedge to better angle the camera, sometimes the wiring just won’t cut it. That makes a wireless model perfect.

Installing a wireless model is much easier than its wired counterpart. In most instances, you won’t even need to drill. Just install the compatible mount wherever you’d like and then attach the doorbell.

But you’ll also have to recharge the battery. While most wireless models will always let you know the battery status at a glance via the companion app, you’ll still need to remember to recharge it.

This means your doorbell might be out of commission while the battery is charging. You can usually purchase an additional battery, but that does add some substantial cost, usually around $40.

Battery life can vary widely, especially due to usage and even where you are located. Extreme cold or heat can play havoc with a battery’s charge. A poor Wi-Fi signal can also drain the battery faster than normal.

Another issue with wireless video doorbells is that they don’t work with existing home chimes. You’ll likely need to purchase an add-on chime that plugs into an electrical outlet. Those are also around $40.

How to Decide Which Kind of Video Doorbell Is Right for You

While both wired and wireless video doorbells are perfect for improving your home security, there are some substantial differences in installation and everyday use.

If you have a newer home and are fine with some light DIY work required for installation, a wired video doorbell should be for you. The full-time power supply opens up many features not available with a wireless version and will likely allow you to use the existing chime box.

A wireless video doorbell is for you if you don’t have existing doorbell wiring, don’t feel comfortable with wired doorbell installation, or want to have a better look at the front door. While you’ll need to recharge the battery and likely purchase a chime box, that installation flexibility is often worth the hassle.

Are you on the fence about buying an OLED monitor? Since 2022, I’ve been using an OLED monitor as the main display for my PC, and I can confidently say I can’t go back to an LCD monitor anymore. Here’s why you should go for it.

1. Unmatched Picture Quality

The first thing you’ll immediately notice after upgrading to an OLED monitor, especially if you’re coming from a standard LCD monitor, is the picture quality.

OLED displays can shut off each pixel individually, and this makes a huge difference when it comes to black levels. The blacks you see on OLED displays during a dark scene are true blacks because the pixels shut off, and as a result, you get an infinite contrast ratio.

LCD displays, on the other hand, have a backlight that remains on even while showing pitch-black content. Take a look at the image above, for example. You can immediately tell the monitor on the left uses an LCD panel due to its backlighting.

And if that’s not enough, I want to point out that the monitor on the left has a 4K resolution, whereas the OLED monitor on the right is 1440p. I still prefer watching videos on the OLED monitor despite the lower resolution due to its superior picture quality, no matter what angle I look at it from.

Even if I look at the monitor from the side, the colors never appear washed out, and the picture quality remains consistent. If you prefer a display with a wide viewing angle, you should consider buying an OLED TV or monitor, as these displays are unmatched in that aspect.

2. True HDR Experience

Several LCD monitors in the market today advertise HDR support, but how can they truly support HDR content when most of them offer peak brightness levels around 600 nits?

OLED monitors can go up to 1,000 nits when viewing HDR content, even though their peak SDR brightness is far lower than that of LCD monitors. That’s because the pixels can shut off individually, which gives these displays a huge advantage in a 10 percent window (i.e., 10 percent of the display shows a white screen while the rest is black).

It’s worth noting that OLED monitors are indeed no match for mini-LED displays or VA monitors in terms of HDR brightness levels. The latter can exceed 1,000 nits in some cases. However, the unmatched black levels and infinite contrast ratio of OLED monitors give them the edge; they offer better visual immersion, especially in a dark room.

3. Instant Response Time for Gaming

If you’re a gamer, a high refresh rate OLED monitor will give you a better experience than most LCD gaming monitors. That’s because OLED displays have a near-instant pixel response time of 0.03ms. In comparison, the fastest TN LCD monitors advertise a 0.5ms response time. But what does this mean in real-world use?

In fast-motion scenes, OLED monitors will appear clearer, as they leave no trails behind moving objects. This means you don’t experience “monitor ghosting”— an issue that plagues almost all LCD monitors, even at higher refresh rates.

Simply put, the lower the monitor’s response time, the less ghosting you’ll experience. However, most gaming monitors have a response time between 1ms and 3ms, which is no match compared to OLED displays.

Many gaming monitors have a pixel overdrive feature to lower the response time and minimize ghosting. However, this causes another issue known as inverse ghosting, where the pixel changes colors quickly and overshoots what the target color is supposed to be, creating a ghost image on the screen. You won’t experience any of these issues on an OLED display.

4. Most OLED Monitors Include Burn-In Warranty

It’s no secret that screen burn-in is one of the biggest cons of OLED displays. This is mostly why people hesitate to buy an OLED TV or monitor. While it’s true that screen burn-in is unavoidable in the long term, I haven’t seen image retention on my OLED monitor despite using it daily since 2022.

Sure, if you display a static screen on an OLED monitor for hours daily over a long period, you will eventually see image retention. Fortunately, most OLED monitors in the market today offer OLED panel care features like pixel shift, pixel refresh, and panel refresh. As long as you utilize them, the chances of screen burn-in are minimal.

If you’re still concerned, we’re happy to let you know that most OLED monitors are backed by a two- or three-year warranty, which includes coverage for screen burn-in. For example, Dell and MSI back their OLED monitors with a three-year warranty, whereas Asus offers a two-year burn-in warranty. But be sure to check the warranty details on the monitor’s specs page.

5. OLED Monitors Aren’t as Expensive as You Think

Considering all their benefits, you’d be quick to assume that OLED monitors cost well over a grand, but that’s not always the case. Sure, they used to be expensive in 2022 when the technology was new in monitors, but in 2024, you can find several OLED monitors for under $1,000.

MSI’s flagship 4K/240Hz QD-OLED monitor, the MSI MPG 321URX, has an MSRP of $950. Likewise, you can find older 2023 models like the Asus ROG Swift PG27AQDM and LG 27GS95QE for under $900 on Amazon.

As you can see, you don’t have to burn a hole in your wallet while shopping for an OLED monitor. If anything, they cost a couple hundred dollars more than high-end LCD gaming monitors. So, what’s stopping you from upgrading to an OLED monitor today?

Need an internet connection for your PC or laptop but don’t have access to public Wi-Fi? The solution is simple: use your phone’s mobile data on your PC through tethering. We’ll show you how to do it on your Android phone.

What Is Tethering?

Tethering is the term for connecting your mobile device to your computer so your PC can go online using your phone’s mobile data connection. It is usually free, aside from using your data allowance.

On Android, you have three tethering options to share the internet connection with your laptop, tablet, or desktop PC:

• Use your phone as a wireless hotspot
• Connect your phone to your computer via USB
• Connect via Bluetooth

1. Use Your Phone’s Hotspot Feature to Connect a PC to the Internet

The most convenient way to share your Android phone’s internet is by turning it into a Wi-Fi hotspot. This feature allows your phone to create a private network, enabling you to connect your devices securely with a password. Here’s how to set it up.

1. Open the Settings app and head to Connections > Mobile Hotspot and Tethering.
2. Tap Mobile Hotspot and enable the toggle at the top.
3. Tap the Network name and Password to edit it.
4. You can also configure advanced settings like the security type, Wi-Fi band (2.4GHz or 5GHz), hotspot visibility, and more.

Once you’ve configured the wireless hotspot on your Android phone, you can easily enable or disable the feature from the Quick Settings panel. With everything set up on Android, here’s how to connect your PC to the hotspot:

1. Press Win + I to open Settings.
2. Go to Network & internet > Wi-Fi.
3. Click Show available networks and browse to find the network your phone created.
4. Select the network and click Connect.
5. Input the password as displayed on your phone to establish the connection.

In my tests, I achieved download speeds of 36.38Mbps and upload speeds of 4.95Mbps over a 5G connection. Additionally, you can share your Android phone’s internet connection with multiple devices simultaneously, including PCs (Windows, Mac, or Linux), Chromebooks, iPads, game consoles, and even other phones.

2. Share Your Phone’s Internet Connection With a PC via USB

Mobile phones have long had a modem feature, allowing you to hook up the device to your computer using USB tethering. This lets you share the mobile internet connection over a wired connection with your laptop or other devices. Here’s how to use it.

1. Enable mobile data on your Android phone and connect it to your PC with the USB cable.
2. Access the notification panel and tap the Android System notification that appears.
3. Select the USB tethering option.

If you don’t see a notification, you can manually enable tethering over USB by following these steps:

1. Open the Settings app on your phone.
2. Head to Connections > Mobile Hotspot and Tethering.
3. Toggle on USB tethering.

Thanks to a wired connection, USB tethering typically provides better speeds. In my tests, I recorded download speeds of 95.39Mbps and upload speeds of 4.66Mbps.

3. Use Bluetooth to Share Mobile Internet With a PC

Another way to share your phone’s internet with your PC involves Bluetooth. This short-range wireless technology provides sufficient bandwidth to transfer data between your phone and a paired device. You’ll need to pair your phone with your computer to do this:

1. Enable Bluetooth on your phone from the Quick Settings panel.
2. Now, on your Windows computer, press Win + I to open the Settings app.
3. Head to Bluetooth & devices and toggle on Bluetooth.
4. Click Add device right below and choose Bluetooth from the list of options.
5. Select your phone when it appears, and complete the pairing process. If you encounter problems, check our guides on setting up Bluetooth in Windows 10 and connecting to Bluetooth in Windows 11.

Once paired, on your phone, go to Settings > Connections > Mobile Hotspot and Tethering and enable Bluetooth tethering. Now, you can share your phone’s internet connection using these steps:

1. Press Win + I to open the Settings app.
2. Head to Bluetooth & devices > Devices.
3. Click the three-dot icon next to your phone and select Join Personal Area Network (PAN).
4. Choose Access point and click Connect.

Bluetooth tethering tends to provide the slowest internet speeds compared to other tethering methods, as Bluetooth is mainly intended for short-range communications and data transfers. In our tests, download speeds dropped to just 0.24Mbps, and upload speeds decreased to 0.12Mbps.

USB tethering consumes the least amount of battery power and offers the fastest speeds. Bluetooth tethering is also battery-friendly but provides really slow internet speeds. Overall, Wi-Fi tethering remains the most preferred option due to its convenience and ability to connect multiple devices.

Most browsers offer a private browsing mode that aims to keep the websites you view off the record. But what exactly does it do in Safari and how do you get the best out of it?

What Private Browsing Does in Safari

First and foremost, Private Browsing keeps the website pages you visit out of your History. The aim is to prevent someone else from seeing which pages you have visited if they have access to your phone or computer.

In Safari, Private Browsing does a lot more than just hide URLs. It also:

• Prevents recent searches from showing up in your history.
• Stops remembering details you enter in forms for autofill.
• Keeps downloaded items from appearing in your Downloads list.
• Locks private tabs after a period of inactivity.
• Adds tracking and fingerprinting protection.

However, it’s important to note that Private Browsing does not stop you from being tracked altogether. Websites you visit will still be able to use various methods to track you, and will still have access to all data that you send them.

On macOS, iOS, and iPadOS, Safari groups private tabs together, and separates them from non-private tabs. On Mac, each Safari window is either private or non-private, and can have as many tabs as you want.

On iPhone, you can switch between private and non-private modes, each of which shows all tabs belonging to that mode.

You can spot when you’re viewing a private tab with these signs:

• The address bar has a dark background. This may be less noticeable if you’re using Dark Mode.
• On Mac, you’ll see a prominent Private indicator in the title bar.
• On iPhone, you’ll see Private alongside the site URL at the bottom of your screen.

How to Use Safari Private Browsing on iPhone and iPad

The steps to enter Private Browsing mode are nearly identical on an iPhone and iPad. The only difference is that the tab icon is at the bottom of the screen on iOS and the top on iPadOS.

1. Long-press the tab icon (two overlapping pages) on the bottom-right (iPhone) or top-right (iPad) of your screen.
2. Tap the New Private Tab menu item.
3. If locked, enter your passcode to unlock Private Browsing.

How to Use Safari Private Browsing on a Mac

You can enter Private Browsing mode on macOS using either a menu item or a keyboard shortcut:

1. Open the File menu and choose New Private Window.
2. Alternatively, use the keyboard shortcut Shift + Cmd + n.
3. Use the browser as you normally would. Any tabs you open from this window will open in the same window, in private mode.

How to Disable Safari Private Browsing on iPhone and iPad

You may want to prevent users of an iPhone or iPad from using Private Browsing mode at all. To do so:

1. Open the Settings app.
2. Tap on Screen Time.
3. Under RESTRICTIONS, click on Content & Privacy Restrictions.
4. If not already enabled, press the toggle next to Content & Privacy Restrictions to enable.
5. Tap Content Restrictions.
6. Change the Web Content setting to Limit Adult Websites.

The option to enter private mode will now be gone.

How to Disable Safari Private Browsing on a Mac

On macOS, the wording of certain options differs slightly, but the overall process is near-identical to iOS:

1. Open System Settings via the Apple menu.
2. Click on Screen Time in the left panel.
3. Under the Restrictions section, click on Content & Privacy.
4. Click Content Restrictions.
5. Change the Access to Web Content setting to Limit Adult Websites.

Private Browsing will now be unavailable in Safari, although any existing private windows will stay open.

Of course, anyone can re-enable Private Browsing using the same process, in reverse. However, you can use Screen Time’s Lock Screen Time Settings option to set a passcode and enforce the setting permanently.

By now, you’re probably well-acquainted with AI chatbots, but AI’s capabilities extend far beyond churning out text answers. If you’re itching to explore the world of AI, these tools are a must-try.

Making beats might feel like sorcery if you’re not musically inclined. But thanks to tools like Beatoven.ai, it’s not just an art reserved for those with musical talents anymore.

If you’ve got an idea for a song in your head, all you need to do is describe it in a text prompt as best you can, and the AI will whip up a song from scratch. You can also use the Generate a Prompt feature if you’re coming up blank.

There are some standard audio editing tools you can use to adjust the results, such as tempo and fades, but most of the customizations are nothing like in a DAW—it’s more akin to fine-tuning your AI art.

I ended up removing the melody from my hip-hop track via the Instrument section and added a “calm” mood from the Create Emotion option. I also played around with the Recompose option to fine-tune my track further.

I couldn’t download my song because I didn’t pay for the subscription, but it sounds impressive.

While Beatoven.ai is primarily for content creators in need of unique background music, it’s a super fun and easy tool to play around with if traditional audio editors intimidate you.

2 Voicemod: Text-to-Sound

Text-to-sound is just too much fun, so I had to include this one as well. Voicemod is completely different from Beatoven, however—its primary function is acting as a real-life voice changer and soundboard for streamers.

If you just want to play around with the AI-powered sound effects, there’s no need to download the app. Head to the Text To Song or Text To Speech options on the Voicemod website.

For Text To Song, you’ll have to select a song and a voice, and then type some lyrics. My song probably won’t get nominated for a Grammy, but it’s supposed to sound silly—Voicemod is often used for creating meme audios after all.

Text To Voice works the same, except there’s no music. Select your voice, type some text, add an effect if you’d like, and hit Generate. You can download the audio for free.

3 Kaiber: AI Animation

Kaiber takes AI art to the next level by animating still images. Gone are the days when you need drawing and software skills to create a captivating animation, all you need to know is how to write a good prompt.

Go to Create Video and select Motion. You can upload a reference image or just start writing a prompt. If you’re coming up empty, select some of the prompt ideas and styles on offer. Toggle your video settings, hit Create Video, and await a masterpiece.

My reference image was created using Shutterstock.AI, and I also let the Kaiber AI choose my animation style. So my result had pretty much no human input, and it still looks awesome.

You get 100 free credits when signing up, so use them wisely because they don’t replenish. Once they run out, you’ll have to choose a subscription plan. You can download your animations for free during your free trial, but they’ll have the Kaiber watermark.

4 Toolsaday: AI Story Generator

AI tools can be very handy for those struggling with writer’s block—but something like ChatGPT probably won’t cut it. Enter Toolsaday, an AI story generator tool that can help you figure out every element of your story.

There are 12 elements to choose from—I went with Short Story Generator. On the left panel, you can instruct the AI on what you’re looking for, but most of the text boxes are optional. I left all the fields completely blank to see if Toolsaday was up for the task.

It did not disappoint—I might actually continue developing this short story further. Let’s see if the Story Plot option can give me a captivating plot based on one simple idea.

Not bad at all. If you’re getting stuck with the details of your story, or just want to see if AI can come up with something worth writing, give Toolsaday a go.

If you’re not a professional designer, Canva is probably your go-to design tool. But there are a bunch of other options worth exploring, especially if they have AI features integrated.

Stockimg.AI lets you create pretty much any type of design and illustration you can think of with a text prompt. You might be thinking “Why not just use an AI image generator?” Because Stockimg.AI tailors every generation to whatever it is that you need to create and comes with the relevant customization options.

If you want to create an AI avatar, there’s a selection of avatar models to choose from. Illustration? You can choose from six different popular illustration styles. And AI wallpapers give you the option of selecting the perfect dimensions.

Keep in mind that the credits you get when signing up don’t replenish. If you design on the regular, a subscription will be worth it.

One of the coolest things that generative AI is capable of is creating videos just from text prompts, so I had to include a text-to-video tool, and Invideo is one of the best you’ll find.

I entered a prompt about mindfulness meditation, and it created a three-minute video complete with stock footage, an informed script on my chosen topic, and a voiceover for the script. I have no complaints, the video is in good enough condition to post straight to social media.

The subscription might be worth it if you’re a professional content creator—it’s actually perfect for bloggers who need to convert their blog posts to video format for socials, and it will also remove the watermarks. But it’s not worth the money if you’re not going to use it often, just an awesome tool to play around with in that case.

These AI tools are flipping the script on what we thought possible, showing that there’s more to AI than just ChatGPT answers. Take them for a spin and see what fresh ideas you can generate!

From watching videos on Komodo dragons to cool life hacks, I found myself falling down the YouTube rabbit hole more often than before. It’s time-consuming, especially when you have other important tasks to take care of.

If you’re heading down the same path, here are the few simple steps I followed to overcome my YouTube addiction.

Analyzing YouTube Time and Habits

Understanding and analyzing your YouTube habits can help you decide which further steps are necessary to reduce your YouTube usage.

For instance, if you watch YouTube on your phone, there’s no need to block it on your computer. Likewise, setting a bedtime reminder won’t make any difference if it doesn’t affect your sleep hours.

So, as a first step, note the following:

• Time spent each day on YouTube
• The device you watch on (phone, TV, or desktop)
• Particular days or hours when you spend more time on YouTube

To analyze your usage, open YouTube on your mobile phone, go to the You tab, scroll down to Time Watched, and select it. Here, you can find your YouTube usage stats for the last seven days. For more detailed stats or earlier data, you can use features like Digital Wellbeing or Screen Time.

However, note that YouTube Time watched includes videos on all devices using your profile. But if you use screen time tracking apps, you’ll have to set them separately for each device.

Limiting YouTube App Time on Mobile Phone

For me, the most effective measure was to limit the time I spent on the YouTube app through screen time monitoring and tracking. Android devices have the Digital Wellbeing and Parental Control app for this, while iPhone users can use Screen Time.

On Android devices, head to Settings > Digital Wellbeing & parental controls > Dashboard. Find YouTube from the list of apps and set a daily timer for it.

If you’re an iPhone user, you can use Screen Time to cut your phone usage and set a time limit for YouTube.

Setting YouTube Break and Bedtime Reminders

YouTube has a couple of built-in features to help you reduce your watching time. First, you can set a reminder for a break once you’ve spent a certain amount of time on YouTube. To set this limit, go to You tab > Time Watched > Tools to manage your YouTube time.

From here, you can create a bedtime reminder by setting a custom schedule or using your phone’s bedtime settings. Likewise, you can set a break reminder, so YouTube reminds you to take a break after a set time.

Turning Off Notifications

YouTube notifications can take a toll on your productivity. If you can’t resist watching videos from your favorite channels after receiving one, you should turn off or manage YouTube notifications.

To do so, go to You tab > Settings (top-right corner) > Notifications. Here, you can turn off different types of notifications individually. On a computer, you can access Settings from the sidebar.

If you don’t want to turn off the notifications, another way is to create a scheduled digest. This way, instead of disturbing you during work hours, all your notifications will be sent as a digest at a set time. To create a scheduled digest, go to Settings > Notifications, toggle on Scheduled digest, and set the delivery time. Win-win!

Disabling Autoplay

Another feature that keeps you hooked to YouTube is autoplay. When enabled, YouTube automatically starts playing the next video, and you don’t even realize how many videos you’ve watched.

To disable autoplay on YouTube, toggle off the autoplay button after playing any video. On a mobile phone, you can also go to You tab > Settings > Autoplay and turn it off.

Blocking YouTube Website on Computer

If you can’t help but watch YouTube on the computer while working, blocking the YouTube website on your device is the best solution.

You can install a site-blocking extension, such as Block Site or Site Blocker, and add youtube.com to the blocklist if you use a particular browser for YouTube. The other way to block sites is by editing the Hosts file.

Bookmarking the Subscriptions Page

YouTube’s algorithm keeps you glued to your screen. Scrolling through the home feed makes it easy to fall into the trap.

One way to avoid this trap is to bookmark the YouTube Subscriptions page on your computer instead of the home page. So when you open the site next time, you can directly choose the videos from your favorite channels instead of watching unnecessary videos.

Removing YouTube Recommendations

After bookmarking the homepage, the next step to defeat the YouTube algorithm is to remove recommended videos.

One way is to turn off your YouTube watch history. This way, YouTube will still suggest videos, but since it won’t have your history, the recommendations might not be as tempting.

For a stricter approach, use a browser add-on that removes YouTube’s suggested videos. Though there are several of them available, Unhook is a popular one that works on Chrome, Edge, and Firefox. This extension removes the homepage feed, related videos, and end cards. Best of all, it removes YouTube Shorts, which can be one of the reasons for your addition.

Download: Unhook for Chrome | Firefox | Edge (Free)

Saving Videos to Watch Later

Instead of playing videos from the Home or Subscriptions page, save videos to Watch Later and only play them from there. This little step can prevent you from being enticed into watching videos that aren’t worth your time.

Ideally, you should watch videos a couple of days (or at least hours) after adding them to Watch Later.

Watching YouTube Videos on a Third-Party Website

If none of the above works, you can use a third-party website to watch YouTube videos. Doing so means you will no longer have to face YouTube’s algorithm that keeps you hooked.

One such site is Watchkin. It asks you to paste the URL of any YouTube video and plays that video on its site. With no distractions on the screen, you won’t be tempted to watch any lifehacks.

SafeShare is another site you can use for this purpose. Though it was meant to share YouTube videos, it can also help you remove all the distractions and overcome YouTube addiction.

Without a doubt, YouTube is the go-to source of entertainment and education for billions of folks. But watching it excessively can seriously hamper your productivity and sleep. So, if you’re looking to cut down on your YouTube usage, you can try out these tips and apps to overcome your addiction and protect your mental health.

Your iPhone automatically exits Low Power Mode as soon as you charge it to 80 percent. So, what do you do if you want to keep your iPhone in Low Power Mode all the time? Apple’s Shortcuts app can serve as a workaround.

Activate Low Power Mode Permanently Using Shortcuts

Shortcuts is a built-in iOS app that simplifies performing various tasks on an iPhone. You can use it to create a shortcut that will allow you to keep your iPhone in Low Power Mode all the time. Here’s what you need to do:

1. Open the Shortcuts app, head to the Shortcuts tab, and tap the plus (+) icon in the top-right corner to create a new shortcut.
2. Tap the Add Action button and search for Set Low Power Mode. Select it to add the action to your shortcut.
3. Make sure the Low Power Mode action is set to On.
4. Tap the Set Low Power Mode text at the top and select Rename to change the shortcut’s name.
5. Tap Done in the top-right corner to save your changes.

Once you’ve made your iPhone shortcut, you’ll see it on the Shortcuts tab in the Shortcuts app.

Tap the shortcut to run it, and your iPhone will permanently go into Low Power Mode. This means Low Power Mode will stay on when the battery goes beyond 80% while charging. Additionally, your iPhone will remain in Low Power Mode even after you restart it.

However, if needed, you can still turn off Low Power Mode on your iPhone from the Control Center. And if you ever want to delete the shortcut, locate it in the Shortcuts app, long-press it, and choose Delete from the context menu. Hit Delete Shortcut when prompted to confirm.

Although Low Power Mode disables many features and background tasks on your iPhone, there are scenarios where you’d still want to keep your iPhone in Low Power Mode permanently. For instance, when you’re traveling somewhere and aren’t sure you’ll get a chance to charge your iPhone.

Similarly, having your iPhone in Low Power Mode all the time can be helpful when you’re on data roaming in a foreign country, as it’ll prevent apps on your iPhone from refreshing in the background and, in turn, reduce your data usage.

Should You Leave Low Power Mode on Permanently?

Low Power Mode doesn’t impact your device unless you constantly need background apps to refresh. For example, you won’t get new email notifications if you have Low Power Mode on, but you can still read your new emails by opening the Mail app.

If you want to use all the features your iPhone has to offer, we don’t recommend keeping Low Power Mode enabled all the time. However, if you’re more concerned about battery life, leaving it on will give you exactly what you want—better endurance.

Yeedi has introduced some impressive new tech with the Yeedi M12 Pro+. It’s a robot vacuum and mop cleaner that has impressed to the point that MUO felt it necessary to award the company with some merited recognition. Its groundbreaking technology has lead to it earning a well deserved Spotlight Award Badge.

And here is why it was chosen.

Superior Cleaning Features

The Yeedi M12 Pro+ boasts a cleaning performance never before seen by a robovac. It boasts an abundance of functions that lifts it above the heads of its competitors and is available at a very agreeable price.

Among these functions is an industry-leading suction power of 11,000Pa. And with its powerful Carpet Boost mode, which enables the robot to deliver enhanced deep vacuuming, nothing is too much trouble for this little guy. You can also fine-tune its performance with specialized cleaning modes designed for different carpet types.

However, the M12 isn’t only about vacuuming. This busy little droid is also a highly trained mopper. It showcases an OZMO Turbo 2.0 mopping system with dual rotating scrub plates that spin at a dizzying speed of 180rpm. The microfiber chenille mop pad and plastic scraper utilizes hot water at a temperature of up to 158°F (70°C), enabling it to take care of the toughest of stains.

Complementing these two workhorse attributes, you get a 200-minute battery life. This offers enough power to tackle large rooms in large houses, even though Yeedi has made this robovac its most compact yet.

TruEdge and ZeroTangle Technologies

But the fun innovations don’t end there. This little helper boasts innovative tech that sets it apart from regular robovacs.

The first of which is its TruEdge technology. The M12 Pro+ can extend and retract the mop as if it had its own little arms. This pushes the mop flush against all edges it encounters and ensures a thorough clean to within one mm.

The form of the edge doesn’t matter, either. If it’s curved, straight, or irregular, the Yeedi M12 Pro+ doesn’t discriminate. Consider your floor surface polished and clean right to the edge.

However, we’re not done yet! ZeroTangle Anti-Tangle tech does exactly what you imagine. It’s a godsend for anyone with pets, especially those who have been left untangling pooch hair from a roller brush in the past.

Well, Yeedi says no more! With a V-shaped design and anti-static bristles, the hair is easily taken care of before it becomes entangled. Then, dual-comb teeth funnel the hair into the suction path where the dust compartment hungrily awaits.

Compact Size Yet Powerful Performance

Don’t judge a book by its cover; this is one powerful little bot. Despite the M12’s OMNI station featuring a tank 17% shorter in size and an auto-refill module at an impressive 30% more compact, all the Yeedi advanced features remain.

Among these capabilities are auto-emptying and refilling, one-tap self-cleaning, and hot-air drying. For a robovac that is housed in the smallest all-in-one station on the market today, that is very impressive. It means you not only get all the power of a large robovac, but it can discreetly reside in a small area of any room, too.

Yet despite its compact build, it still manages to hold a 3.4L dust bag. This means you don’t need to empty it for around 90 days.

The compact but mighty nature of this robot vacuum cleaner makes it unique in the industry and, for sure, one that won’t let you down.

Superior Mapping and Obstacle Avoidance

The Yeedi M12 Pro+ utilizes intersecting lasers to sense objects in its path and plots out 3D maps to ensure it can avoid them. No navigation is too complex, and when you add new furniture to the room, you can easily input it into the vacuum’s pre-plotted maps.

You can also update floor and carpet types to ensure the M12 performs to the best of its capabilities every time.

The M12 maps out areas very quickly, too. It plots a 1,075 sq ft room in just six minutes, and it has a memory capacity for up to four 3D maps. From there, it can quietly go about its business without bothering anyone. It even has a sensor on the bottom that warns it of stairs, so cleaning is never interrupted by accidental falls.

The Award-Winning Yeedi M12 Pro+: Revolutionary Robovac Engineering

If you’re looking to purchase your first robot vacuum cleaner or upgrade your existing machine, the Yeedi M12 Pro+ is, quite simply, an easy decision. With its superior technology and features, it’s one of the most reliable and advanced robovacs you can find. And the Spotlight Award from MUO is a testament to that.

It’s the ideal robovac for families with children, pets, or busy schedules and a blessing for the elderly and anyone with limited mobility.

It’s now easier than ever to play your favorite Nintendo classics on your iPhone. And it’s all thanks to the Delta emulator that’s finally available on the App Store. We’ll teach you how to use it to play all the old Nintendo games you own.

Using the Delta Emulator to Play Retro Nintendo Games

Previously, you had to sideload emulator apps like Delta on your iPhone using third-party app stores like AltStore. But thankfully, Apple updated its App Review Guidelines in April 2024 to allow retro game console emulators on the App Store.

As a result, you can now easily install Delta just like any other app. But before you can actually use the app to play Nintendo games, you need the ROM file for the game you want to play. But how do you get the ROM file, you ask?

If you own the game cartridge, you can use a cartridge dumper like Epilogue’s GB Operator with your PC to extract the ROM file from your cartridge legally. Then, you can transfer the ROM file from your PC to your iPhone and follow the steps below in Delta to start playing:

Download:Delta (Free)

1. Tap Get on Delta’s App Store page to install it on your iPhone.
2. Launch the app and tap the plus (+) icon in the top-right corner.
3. Choose Files from the context menu and browse to the directory where you saved the ROM file.
4. Select the ROM file, and it’ll show up in the app. Now, just tap the game to run it. All the console controls will appear on the bottom half of your screen.

The catch with GB Operator is that you can only use it to extract ROMs from Game Boy cartridges. However, you can find similar tools if you own other retro Nintendo consoles like NES, SNES, Nintendo DS, Nintendo 64, etc.

Keep in mind that your ROM files should be in one of the following formats, depending on the console Nintendo made the game for:

While Delta supports Nintendo DS, you can’t play Nintendo DS games out of the box even if you have the ROM files. That’s because Delta requires you to manually add the DS BIOS files by following these steps:

1. Launch Delta and tap the gear icon in the top-left corner to go to its settings menu.
2. Scroll down and tap Nintendo DS under Core Settings.
3. You’ll see three filenames under the DS BIOS Files section at the bottom. You need to import these files just like you imported your ROM files before.

As you can see, setting up the Delta emulator to play Nintendo games is pretty straightforward as long as you have the required files. Although Delta is just one of the many Game Boy Advance emulators for iOS devices, its availability on the App Store makes it our recommended choice now more than ever.

Don’t forget that if you already own a Nintendo Switch, Nintendo already makes it easy to play retro NES, SNES, N64, and Game Boy games on your Switch console. You just need to pay for the Nintendo Switch Online Expansion Pack.

If you feel like your Mac is slowing down with updates and are frustrated with Apple’s walled garden, it’s time for a change. You can breathe new life into your Mac by installing Linux, and we’re here to show you exactly how to do that.

Before You Run Linux on an Apple Silicon Mac

If you have an Apple silicon Mac, know that you can’t just grab a USB flash drive and install any Linux distribution of your choice.

As of this writing, your only option is to install Asahi Linux on your Mac, which is still in active development and lacks a lot of crucial features like Thunderbolt support. Plus, it’s not compatible with M3 Macs yet.

If you want a more stable solution, you can install and run Linux using Parallels Desktop, but this method comes with a performance hit as you’re running Linux on a virtual machine.

For everyone else, we’ll explain how to dual-boot Linux on Intel-based Macs below.

Step 1: Prepare Your Mac for Installing Linux

To install Linux on your Mac, you need a USB flash drive with at least 2GB of storage. You’ll erase the flash drive in a future step to put an Ubuntu installer on it, so make sure you’ve backed up any important files first.

Use an Ethernet adapter to connect your Mac to the internet. This is important because your Wi-Fi may not work in Ubuntu without third-party drivers. Similarly, desktop Mac users should get hold of a USB keyboard or mouse in case Bluetooth doesn’t work.

If you plan to dual-boot your Mac with Linux, you also need to make sure you have enough free storage. Open the Apple menu and go to System Setting > General > Storage to check that you have at least 25GB of space (but preferably more).

Finally, make a backup of your Mac. You won’t lose data by installing Linux in a dual boot partition. However, if something goes wrong, you may need to erase your entire Mac to fix it.

If you plan to replace macOS with Linux rather than creating a dual-boot system, use a service like Carbon Copy Cloner to back up your macOS Recovery partition. This will make it far easier to revert to macOS again in the future.

Step 2: Create a Partition on Your Mac Drive

For a dual-boot system (which we strongly recommend), you need to create a Linux partition on your Mac’s drive. If you don’t want to create a dual boot system, skip to the next section.

In fact, to dual-boot Linux on a Mac, you need two extra partitions: one for Linux and a second for swap space. Ideally, you should set the swap partition to about half the RAM your Mac has. You can check how much memory you have by clicking on the Apple logo in the menu bar and choosing About This Mac from the dropdown.

You can use Disk Utility to create new partitions on your Mac by following these steps:

1. Open Disk Utility from the Applications > Utilities folder in Finder. Alternatively, you can use Spotlight search on your Mac to find it.
2. In the top-left corner, select View > Show All Devices.
3. Select the highest-level drive on your Mac, then click Partition.

   

4. Use the plus (+) button to create a new partition and click Add Partition. Name it UBUNTU and set the format to MS-DOS (FAT32). Give it as much space as you want to use for Linux.
5. Click Apply to create the partition.

   

6. Repeat the steps above to create another partition. Name this partition SWAP and set the format to MS-DOS (FAT) again. Make the size match half the amount of RAM in your Mac—for example, 4GB, 8GB, or more.
7. Click Apply to create the partition.

If you can’t create new partitions, it could be because FileVault is encrypting your Mac’s drive. Go to System Settings > Network > FileVault to turn it off.

Install rEFInd for Better Boot Options

The standard boot manager on your Mac doesn’t always work with Ubuntu. This means you need to install a third-party boot manager instead, which will let you easily choose between macOS or Linux when you start your computer.

Therefore, your next step is to download rEFInd, which is the boot manager we recommend. To install rEFInd, you need to temporarily disable System Integrity Protection in macOS. This is an important security feature, so make sure you re-enable it after.

To install the rEFInd boot manager, follow these steps:

1. With SIP disabled, open Terminal from Applications > Utilities in Finder (or search for it using Spotlight).
2. Open Finder in a separate window and navigate to the rEFInd download.
3. Drag the refind-install file into your Terminal window and press Return (or Enter).
4. When prompted, enter your administrator password and press Return again.

   

5. After the installation, remember to enable SIP again.

Next time you restart your Mac, the rEFInd menu should appear automatically. But if it doesn’t, hold Option while booting up to load your boot manager.

Step 3: Create an Ubuntu USB Installer

Download the latest version of Ubuntu as a disk image from the Ubuntu website. You need to use a third-party app to create a USB installer from the Ubuntu disk image. One of the simplest apps for this is Etcher, but you can use anything you like.

To create an Ubuntu USB installer with balenaEtcher:

1. Open Etcher and click Select Image.
2. Navigate to the Ubuntu disk image you downloaded and click Open.
3. Insert your USB flash drive, and Etcher should automatically select it. If it doesn’t, click Select Target or Change to manually select the flash drive.
4. Make sure the correct drive is selected since the next step erases it.
5. Click Flash and enter your administrator password to erase the USB flash drive and create an Ubuntu USB installer. Once the flashing process is complete, you’ll get a prompt to Eject the flash drive.

Step 4: Allow Booting From an External Drive

If you own an Intel Mac made between 2018 and 2020, it likely has a T2 security chip. This can cause problems when booting from a USB drive. To solve this, you’ll need to take some extra steps. You can ignore this part if your Mac doesn’t have a T2 chip.

1. Turn on your Mac while holding Command + R, and release the keys as soon as you see the Apple logo. This will boot you into macOS Recovery.
2. Enter the password for a user you have access to. Keep in mind that it should be an administrator account.
3. Select Utilities > Startup Security Utility from the menu bar. You’ll once again be prompted to enter your administrator password.
4. Under Secure Boot, select the No Security option, and under Allowed Boot Media, select Allow booting from external or removable media.

   

Step 5: Boot Ubuntu From Your USB Installer

Restart your Mac while holding the Option key and reinsert the USB flash drive directly into your computer. When the boot loader appears, use the arrow keys to select the Ubuntu Boot EFI option and hit Return (or Enter).

An Ubuntu loading screen appears, followed by the Ubuntu desktop. Use this opportunity to test Ubuntu on your Mac. Note that because Ubuntu is running from your USB flash drive, it may be slow. Since Ubuntu can’t use your Mac’s Wi-Fi by default, use an Ethernet adapter to connect to the internet.

Step 6: Install Ubuntu on Your Mac

When you’re ready, double-click the Install Ubuntu item on the desktop.

Follow the on-screen prompts to choose your language and keyboard layout. Select Normal installation and check the box next to Install third-party software. You need to connect your Mac to the internet using an Ethernet cable to install this software, which makes functions like Wi-Fi and Bluetooth work. Then, click Continue.

If prompted, choose to keep your partitions mounted.

Option 1: Dual Boot Ubuntu With macOS

From the Installation type screen, select Something Else and click Continue. On the next screen, you need to identify and select the UBUNTU partition you created. Unfortunately, there are no recognizable partition names, so look for a device with fat32 in the name that matches the partition size in MB.

Double-click to select it and choose Use as: Ext4 journaling file system. Set the Mount point to / and check the box to Format the partition. Click OK. In the popup alert, click Continue to write previous changes to the disk.

Now, identify your SWAP partition, which should also have fat32 in the name. Double-click it and choose to Use as: swap area, then click OK. Open the Device for boot loader installation dropdown menu and select your UBUNTU partition again. The name should match what you selected for it from the table above.

Take a moment to ensure you selected the correct partitions, then click Install Now. Click Continue in the popup alert to confirm you want to write changes to those disks. Finally, follow the on-screen prompts to choose your time zone and create a user account, then wait for the installation to complete.

Option 2: Replace macOS With Ubuntu

From the Installation type screen, select Erase disk and install Ubuntu.

When you’re ready, click Install Now and select your disk. Follow the on-screen prompts to set the correct time zone and create a user account, then wait for the installation to complete.

You’ve now installed Linux on your Mac successfully! If you have an older Mac that no longer receives macOS updates from Apple, we highly suggest making this switch. Ubuntu or other popular Linux distributions will breathe new life into your old Mac, as you’ll get optimal performance even on outdated hardware.

Although dual booting is unlikely to affect the data on your macOS partition, we strongly recommend backing up your Mac before installing Linux.

Android excels at customization, and your ringtone is no exception. Want to use your own track as a ringtone? Apply custom ringtones to specific contacts? Set custom notification sounds? Here’s what you need to know.

How to Create Custom Ringtones on Android

No, we’re not talking about writing your own music. Downloading tracks and saving them in the right places will suffice.

You can grab thousands of ringtones and notification sounds using an app like Zedge. You can quickly download ringtones from movies, video games, memes, and more. The app can set any available sound as a ringtone, notification sound, or custom notification.

Download:Zedge (Free, subscription available)

If you don’t want to use the app, you can stick to the Zedge website and download files directly or check out one of the other top sites for downloading ringtones. Or check out these free ringtones that sound like real phones.

To make changes to a tone before you assign it, consider Ringtone Maker. This app can create ringtones, alarms, and notification sounds from multiple audio file types. You can use it to edit audio on your phone, perhaps to boost a track’s audio, trim silence, or similar.

Download:Ringtone Maker (Free, premium version available)

How to Change Your Ringtone on Android

Now that you’ve gotten your hands on tunes and chimes, you’re ready to actually set your ringtone. The steps may vary slightly depending on your Android phone’s model, but we’ve covered detailed instructions for both Google Pixel and Samsung Galaxy phones.

On a Google Pixel Phone

If you own a Google Pixel or any phone that runs a mostly stock version of Android, you can follow these steps:

1. Go to Settings and tap Sound & vibration.
2. Tap Phone Ringtone, Default notification sound, or Default alarm sound depending on what you want to change. This will take you to a page containing a list of preinstalled tones as well as the ones you’ve added.
3. Pick a category and then tap a ringtone to listen to it. Select My Sounds to view files your phone has scanned in folders labeled “ringtones.” To manually add files from other locations, tap the + icon in the bottom-right corner.
4. When you’ve decided which one you like, hit Save in the top-right corner.

On a Samsung Galaxy Phone

Samsung’s version of Android is slightly different due to the One UI interface. Here’s what you need to do to change your ringtone on a Samsung Galaxy phone:

1. Go to Settings > Sounds and vibration.
2. Select Ringtone or Notification sound.
3. Choose from the existing options or tap the + icon in the top-right corner to add a ringtone or sound you downloaded. Your phone will display any audio file it detects in your internal storage, so use the search option and enter the filename.

You can assign a specific ringtone to a contact if you want even more customization. And when that particular contact calls, you’ll know who it is just from the tone.

On a Google Pixel Phone

To set a contact’s ringtone on a Pixel phone or any phone that runs stock Android, follow these steps:

1. Open the Contacts app.
2. Select the contact for whom you want to use a custom ringtone.
3. Tap the three-dot menu in the top-right corner and choose Set ringtone.

Now, simply select your desired ringtone, and you’re all set!

On a Samsung Galaxy Phone

The steps on a Samsung phone are nearly identical. Here are the steps:

1. Open the Contacts app and select the contact for whom you want to change the ringtone.
2. Tap the three dots in the bottom-right corner and select Change ringtone/vibration.
3. Now, select whether you wish to set a custom ringtone or vibration.

Now, simply choose your desired tone from the list and exit the menu.

Before smartphones came along, changing the ringtone was one of the first steps to make a phone feel like your own. Now, with so many options, much better speakers, and custom sounds per app and contact, the experience is even better than it was back then.

Whether you’re changing your ringtones for fun or to be sure you can tell calls apart, Android devices make the whole process easy.

Wordle is a daily puzzle from the New York Times. If you want some extra help to solve today’s Wordle, we have the answer to Wordle #1037, plus some extra clues.

SPOILERS AHEAD (CLUES)

Today’s Wordle (#1037) Basic Clues

If you just want the answer to the Wordle puzzle for April 21, 2024, scroll down past the clues and the next spoiler warning. Otherwise, here are a set of clues to help you solve today’s Wordle somewhat on your own.

1. Today’s Wordle contains four consonants and one vowel.
2. One letter appears twice, and in succession.
3. The first letter is J.
4. The last letter is Y.

The Big Clue for Today’s Wordle Puzzle

The big clue for today’s Wordle is, “I always enjoy Wordle, but I am especially happy about today’s answer”.

SPOILERS AHEAD (ANSWER)

Today’s Wordle Answer (April 21, 2024)

If you still haven’t beaten today’s Wordle even with the clues provided above, the answer is below…

The answer to today’s Wordle is “JOLLY“.

The word “Jolly” is most commonly an adjective, but can also be a noun, a verb, and an adverb. As an adjective, it means happy, joyous, and enjoying oneself. As a noun (especially in British slang), it refers to a party. As a verb, it refers to partying or engaging in banter. And as an adverb, it’s an old-school way of saying “very,” as in “You should be jolly well ashamed of yourself for that”.

According to the Online Etymology Dictionary, the word “Jolly” originated circa 1300 CE. It comes from the Old French word “jolif,” meaning festive, merry, or amorous. Some etymologists believe that “Jolly” ultimately comes from the Old Norse word “jol,” meaning a winter feast. This is still used in common parlance as “yule,” an archaic term for Christmas. As in “yule log” and “yuletide”.

Our Top Wordle Tips (to Beat It Every Day)

1. Choose a good starting word. There are plenty to choose from, so pick one from our list of the best Wordle starting words.
2. Try to eliminate all five vowels early. As there are only a handful of vowels, it’s best to use them all within the first 2-3 guesses.
3. Use popular letters early. As well as the vowels, letters such as T, S, N, R, H, C, D, and L appear most commonly in English words.
4. Take your time over your guesses. Wordle isn’t timed, so there’s no rush to complete it. You can even guess on paper first.
5. Remember that letters can appear twice (and often do). Keep this in mind when guessing, as forgetting it can lead you to mess up.

Now that you have completed today’s Wordle puzzle (with a little help from your friends at MUO), you should check out some of the other free games from the New York Times.

Connections is a fun game that challenges you to find the associations between 16 words, splitting them up into four groups of four. To help combat the challenging nature of the game, check out our tips and tricks to help you beat Connections.

There’s also Strands, the newest addition to the New York Times’ burgeoning list of games. Just like Connections, it’s extremely challenging, but in a unique string-the-letters-together way. We recommend you check out our best tips for beating Strands to give yourself a leg up on the daily challenge.

Or, if you’re a Wordle purist and want more of the same, we recommend trying these awesome Wordle alternatives.

Removing objects from photos is easier than ever on a smartphone, but that’s largely limited to Pixels, Samsung flagships, or a Google One subscription. While you might think doing so requires expensive software on desktop, the Photos app on Windows is all you need to remove unwanted elements from an image. It’s easily accessible, free, and is pretty great!

What Is Windows Photos Generative Erase?

The name is pretty self-explanatory in this case. Generative Erase is a tool built into the Windows Photos app that lets you select and remove objects from an image. The AI-powered feature does so without disrupting the background, using machine learning to gauge what the photo would be like without the object.

You don’t need expensive photo editing software or a high-end phone. The Photos app is available on all Windows 10 and 11 machines. You should see the Erase tool after updating the Windows Photos app to version 2024.11020.21001.0 or higher.

How to Use Generative Erase in Windows Photos

Open the Photos app on your desktop and find or load the image you want to edit. If the Photos app is your default photo viewer, double-clicking the image should open it.

Click the Edit button in the top bar and select Erase. If you want to get granular with your edit, you can adjust the brush size and zoom in on the picture.

The Auto Erase toggle is enabled by default and erases objects as you go. To erase multiple objects, toggle off Auto Erase, use the brush to highlight everything you want to remove, and then tap Erase.

You have to be precise with the brush tool, but the option to adjust the size makes highlighting objects relatively easy.

Is Generative Erase on Windows Photos Any Good?

I attempted to remove the light pole in the original image twice: using the Magic Eraser on the Pixel 8 Pro and with Windows Photos. In the edited photos, you’ll see that both did a pretty good job removing the object and adjusting the background. The second image was edited using the Windows Photos app, while I used Magic Eraser on the third.

The Windows Photos app actually did a better job with the background and at least tried to replicate the bench behind the pole. Meanwhile, Magic Eraser just removed half the bench, but did great replicating the tree behind the pole.

However, Magic Eraser is a lot more lenient with object selection. Simply tapping an object works most of the time on the phone, while you must be very precise with the brush tool on Windows Photos. Overall, the apps did a solid job of removing the object, and it is a complex background to work with. The images look great at first glance; you’d need to zoom in significantly to find any mistakes.

Both are far from perfect, but they will get the job done in a pinch. While features like Magic Eraser are a huge part of Google’s Pixel advertising, it may be a surprise to know that you have easy and free access to an equally good tool right on your Windows desktop!

You may have thought poking was dead on Facebook. But it turns out the feature is still there and Facebook is even trying to revive it. Here’s what you need to know about poking someone on Facebook and how you can still use the feature.

What Is Poking on Facebook?

Those who used Facebook in its early days will remember the ability to “poke” someone on Facebook to get their attention. This would essentially send a notification to the person letting them know that you poked them. But the feature was eventually buried, with Facebook leaning towards post reactions and interactions instead.

However, according to Business Insider, Meta is trying to revive the feature with a design tweak that is reintroducing it to a new generation of users (and providing a throwback for early users of the platform). The design tweak will show the poke button next to a name when you search for a person.

While we haven’t seen the poke button on the Facebook website, we do see it when searching for someone using the Android app. However, even if you don’t see this resurfaced button, you can still use the poke feature.

You should also note that you can only use the feature with friends, so the button will not appear next to the names of people you’re not Facebook friends with.

How to Poke Someone on Facebook in 2024

The easiest way to poke someone on Facebook is to use the Poke button. To access this button, search for your friend’s name in the Facebook mobile app. Then select the Poke button. Once the action has been sent, the button will change to Poked.

If you don’t see this button, or you’re using the Facebook website, you can still access the poke feature in a slightly more roundabout way.

To do this, follow these steps:

1. In the search bar, type the word “poke” and press Enter.
2. Select the menu item that says Pokes. This will take you to a page where you can see who has poked you.

From this page, you can also access the poke button to send pokes to friends. Facebook will provide a list of suggested users to poke, but you can also use the search bar to look for someone specific.

When you poke someone, Facebook will send the person a notification to let them know that you used the feature.

If they click on the notification, Facebook will open the poke page for you where you can poke them back. You can choose whether to continue the cycle of nudges. While the feature is slightly buried, it’s an entertaining tool like seeing a friendship history on Facebook.

Facebook does not keep a history of people you have poked in the past, but you will be able to tell who you have poked based on whether the button is available when you search their name on the poke page. This prevents someone from spamming others with pokes. You don’t want poking to end up being the reason you block someone on Facebook, after all.

So if you want to catch a friend’s attention or just give the feature a try, check out the poke feature on Facebook for a sense of nostalgia or a new way to attract someone’s notice.

The one troubleshooting step for all Siri-related issues.

Finding the bottleneck in your PC can often be time-consuming, but if you know what parameters to look for, you can determine the culprit within minutes. Below, we’ll teach you the easiest way to check if your CPU is bottlenecking your PC.

Monitor Your GPU Usage Using MSI Afterburner

MSI Afterburner is one of the best GPU overclocking software out there, but why did I suggest using it to monitor your GPU usage, you ask?

Well, MSI Afterburner comes with RivaTuner Statistics Server (RTSS), which makes it easy to monitor hardware statistics, like your CPU usage, GPU usage, power draw, clock speeds, memory frequency, temperature, and more.

If you’re wondering why we’re monitoring the GPU usage to determine a CPU bottleneck, it’s pretty simple. If your CPU is bottlenecking your PC, it will hold back your graphics card from performing at its full potential.

So, take some time to set up MSI Afterburner to display stats on your Windows PC first. Then, load up a game that you usually play and monitor the GPU usage while actively playing it for a few minutes. Since I play Valorant almost daily, I’ve used that as an example here.

If you notice that your GPU usage is less than 90 percent, it means that your CPU is holding your graphics card back from performing at its maximum potential. However, in some cases, it could also be due to the fact that the game is poorly optimized. Therefore, it’s worth checking the GPU usage across three or four games to see if your results are fairly consistent.

As you can see from the screenshot above, the GPU usage on my RTX 4090 is just 35% despite pushing nearly 500FPS at 1440p resolution. This clearly indicates that my CPU, the Ryzen 5900X, is bottlenecking my PC, and I would get higher and more consistent frame rates by upgrading to a newer Ryzen 7800X3D or Ryzen 7950X3D chip.

Additionally, take huge drops in frame rate as a vital sign that your CPU is bottlenecking your PC. For example, when a game runs at 150FPS but drops to 60 or 70FPS every few minutes.

Another easy way to determine a CPU bottleneck is by using online PC bottleneck calculators. You just need to enter your PC specs and select the resolution you play games at to know whether your CPU is holding your PC back.

Why Low GPU Usage Indicates a CPU Bottleneck

You experience low GPU usage when your CPU struggles to keep up with the graphics card to render more frames. This means the graphics card in your PC is more powerful than what your CPU can handle. And that’s when the term “overkill” comes in.

For instance, a top-of-the-line graphics card like the RTX 4090 is overkill for a PC powered by a Ryzen 5900X. As a result, you won’t be able to get the most out of your powerful GPU unless you upgrade to a newer flagship processor like the Ryzen 7950X3D or the Intel Core i9 14900KS.

Additionally, today’s high-end graphics cards target 1440p and 4K gaming. So, if you play games at a lower resolution, like 1080p, you will experience low GPU usage even if you have the fastest CPU on the market.

To reduce a CPU bottleneck, you can play games at higher resolutions, like 1440p or 4K, and crank up the graphics settings, which puts more stress on the GPU than the CPU. Otherwise, your only option is to upgrade to a faster CPU and get more usage out of your graphics card.

Luminar Neo has always been one step ahead of the photo editing game with its AI features. The Spring 2024 update—which will be available from April 25th, 2024—introduces three must-have AI photo editing features. Let’s see what they are.

1. Water Enhancer AI

Ever take a beautiful photo of a waterscape but the color of the water just ruins the shot? Luminar Neo’s AI Water Enhancer can fix that in seconds. The Water Enhancer tool automatically identifies and masks any water in your image, and you can refine the AI selection if required.

Find the Water Enhancer tool under the Landscape edit tools and use it to change the color from dirty brown, dark, or uninteresting to natural hues of blues and greens with luminescent reflections. The Water Enhancer AI tool has six sliders: Amount (strength), Blue, Green, Original Color, Brightness, and Contrast.

Below the main tool are options to refine the mask. Here, you can draw, erase, or restore the masked area, and within that, you can change the size, softness, strength, feathering, and depth of the mask.

This AI tool provides natural and even results that save a ton of time. There are plenty of other ways to use Luminar Neo more effectively to improve your photos.

2. Twilight Enhancer AI

Luminar Neo’s Twilight Enhancer AI tool enhances your twilight landscapes. And it’s not just for editing the sky in your twilight photo, it also edits the entire scene to match.

Upload an image to the Catalog and find the Twilight Enhancer tool under the Landscape edit tools. The main tool offers global adjustments and masking, with a choice of five gradient presets. Like with Water Enhancer AI, you can create and refine a masked area if you only want to edit the sky or one part of your photo.

There are also sliders that affect five select areas of your photo, so you can edit parts of your landscape separately, including Sky, Dawn, Scene, Water Reflection, and Mask Refinement.

Skylum has thought of it all with its Twilight Enhancer AI tool. Not only can you create the perfect sky for your scene, but the individual sliders allow you to get the colors, shading, and exposure just right across the board. This tool feels like six tools in one!

3. Object Select AI

Object Select AI is Luminar Neo’s tool for making quick selections of subjects or shapes in your photos. It’s very helpful when you have many areas to select, and it’ll save time on drawing precise selections around each area.

This handy tool can be found within the Masking section of any edit tool. With it, you can use AI to select the areas in which you want your chosen tool to be applied.

With an option to Add and another to Subtract, it’s easy to add or remove the mask from multiple elements. Return to the Adjustments for the tool you’re using, and any adjustments you make will be applied to the masked areas. Quick and simple, with great results.

Luminar Neo also has a few generative AI tools which were released in 2023. GenSwap lets you add or replace objects, GenExpand lets you expand your borders, and GenErase lets you easily remove elements without a trace.

How to Get Luminar Neo

You can purchase Luminar Neo directly from Skylum’s website, or you can download it from the Google Play Store or the Apple Store for your device’s system. iPad users can also purchase Luminar for iPad, although its features aren’t as in-depth as the computer software.

Prices start from $11.95 per month, which includes a basic bundle of tools along with some presets—this can be bought for one month or as a monthly rolling subscription. The annual subscriptions go for $79 (12 months) or $119 (24 months), both include the Spring Assets Collection and a Forest Photography Masterclass, along with free presets. There is a 7-day free trial.

There’s also a lifetime license available for $199. This license includes everything in the annual subscription, plus one year’s access to generative AI tools. Luminar Neo allows you to buy extensions to add to your license without needing to purchase a new license.

Luminar Neo isn’t just a standalone tool. You can also use it as a plugin on various other software, including Adobe Photoshop, Adobe Lightroom, and the Apple Mac Photos app to enhance your workflow with AI editing tools.

There are many great photo editing tools on the market, but Luminar Neo’s AI offerings are in a league of their own—integrating them into your editing workflow will transform your photos. Water Enhancer AI, Twilight Enhancer AI, and Object Select AI will become available from April 25th, 2024.

Bored of using ChatGPT for programming, chatting, and learning? It’s time to start using it for gaming instead.

ChatGPT has a wealth of games in its custom GPT store, covering everything from, RPGs and Dungeons and Dragons-style adventures, classic retro games, card games, quizzes, mysteries, and so much more.

Let’s start with one of the top-rated games on ChatGPT’s custom GPT store. Murder Mystery Mayhem is a procedurally generated game where you play the role of a detective in the year 1925.

As with all good investigations, Murder Mystery Mayhem begins by setting the scene, including an image of the scene and the six suspects, along with names, roles, and potential interview points. You then begin questioning each suspect, attempting to find holes in their story, check alibis, and uncover crucial evidence.

The story isn’t completely linear, but you don’t have much room to develop your detective’s character. I wrote that “I was pacing the room, looking at each suspect in turn, trying to detect a tell, anger, or worry,” but was informed that was outside the boundaries of the game by the Officer (the police officer present at the investigation with you).

Once you finger your suspect, you call in the Officer to make the arrest. Collar the wrong perp, and the game is over, and you begin with a new mystery.

Murder Mystery Mayhem is good fun, with the location and murderer changing round by round, and each suspect has new alibis and evidence to reveal. The changes keep it feeling fresh, and one game played through to the end can keep you engaged and seeking the truth for well over an hour. (Don’t forget, you don’t have to play it all at once!)

Dying of dysentery has become a longstanding meme from the original Oregon Trail game, but you can now relive that horrifying experience in ChatGPT. The Oregan Trail custom GPT brings one of the first edu-games (not the first, mind!) to ChatGPT… where you can suffer through the wilderness all over again.

You begin as the Oregon Trail does: choosing your character and buying supplies, then heading out into the wilderness. Most of your input to the game is choosing between the numbered options, such as where to head next, whether to buy more supplies, explore a new area, hunt for supplies, talk to the locals, look at the map, and so on.

It’s a basic version of the classic game, but it’s engaging enough. The custom GPT’s scripting doesn’t allow you to go off-piste and, say, rob the local convenience store for supplies (nor did the original), but it’s certainly a lot easier without so many setbacks constantly upending and destroying your party. It’s a much easier version, that’s for sure.

From the potential death and horror of the Oregon Trail to something a little more relaxing: Poker. You play against the AI in this Poker custom GPT, starting with 10,000 credits, and play standard five-card Texas hold’em until someone’s credits run out.

My only major gripe about this poker game is that ChatGPT seems to mimic your choices, such as check, raise, and so on, which can make the game predictable (or at least less random).

Now, this is a cool idea of how a custom GPT can span multiple types of input to create a custom game with a unique storyline.

When you first boot Console GPT, you meet the message “BOOT UP AND INSERT GAME.” But you don’t have a game cartridge to boot yet. Instead, you have to head to the Console GPT Glif page, which is a custom AI art tool that will create your “cartridge.”

Input the type of game you want in the text box, select Glif It!, and watch as your creation comes to life. I went with “retro-futurism crime lord” and was presented with “Cyber Syndicate,” a game where you “navigate a neon-soaked, cyberpunk metropolis teeming with high-tech heists and digital espionage,” with a goal of becoming the ultimate syndicate leader.

Now, download the Cyber Syndicate cartridge (as an image; it’s not really a cartridge file) by hovering over the image and selecting Download.

Head back to Console GPT and use the image upload button to insert the cartridge. For me, Cyber Syndicate instantly whirrs into life, declaring “COMPATIBLE CARTRIDGE DETECTED. LOADING ‘CYBER SYNDICATE.'” The first scenario boots along with a 70 percent full health bar, three options, and, most interestingly, the option to visualize the scene.

The narrative flow is a bit shaky, and Console GPT could use some extra commands to remember other parts of the story, but it’s good fun for a while. For example, one moment, I was a lone operative in a bar, and the next, I was planning a heist in a room with the rest of my assembled team.

Not content with card games, custom cartridge adventures, or adventuring? Why not give a custom GPT idle game a try instead?

I have to say, this implementation of Cookie Clicker is jarring. Cookie Clicker is one of the most well-known idle games of all time, building up your cookie income over time.

The custom GPT Cookie Clicker is decidedly different. You’re still building up a cookie empire in a similar style, but because ChatGPT doesn’t run automated commands and cannot keep the numbers ticking over like the original game, it requires more input.

Still, if you’re into idle games and want to try something different, it could be worth a try.

Adventure Inked has developed more than 200 ChatGPT text adventure games, so there are far too many to list here. Cute Little Zombies is a perfect example of why its text adventures are great, giving you a heap of different scenarios to play through, all with cute little AI-generated images to help build the story out.

You’re first presented with a list to choose your preferred type of zombie apocalypse. Perhaps you prefer a “Classic Horde,” or maybe you’re more into a “Biotech Disaster” or “Apocalyptic Cult?” Either way, Cute Little Zombies’ list of eight scenarios has you covered. Once you select, the game sets the scene, dropping you into a world filled with ravenous zombies, ready to make you one of their own.

What I like about Cute Little Zombies is that along with the numbered action options, it also makes it clear you can enter another action you want to take, which helps make the game a little more personal. Plus, the images created within the custom GPT game are ridiculously cute, and the storytelling is decent. I mean, it’s not going to win any prizes for writing, but it’s good enough to draw you in.

Gaming on ChatGPT is fun, but there is one major frustration that cannot be escaped: ChatGPT’s input limit. As you can only send ChatGPT Plus a limited number of messages (around 40 every three hours), any in-depth gaming will be interrupted periodically to reset the counter. The counter doesn’t roll over, either. You’re not building up extra hours of ChatGPT messages by not messaging; ChatGPT tracks your usage from when you send your first message during a session.

ChatGPT’s games are entertaining, and custom GPT games can add an extra dimension with some clever designs, but that limit means you’ll always have more fun with a regular game instead.

Tile dominated the smart tracker market until Apple took the world by storm with its AirTags. Both are great products in and of themselves, being versatile and easy to use. But which is the best Bluetooth tracker for you? Let’s find out.

Price Comparison

Unlike most products with the Apple logo on them, AirTags are remarkably affordable. Only one version of AirTags exists; you can get a single AirTag for $29 or a four-pack for $99.

While Apple created AirTags as a one-size-fits-all tracking solution, Tile has an entire range of products designed to suit your needs. The Tile Sticker ($29.99) is the smallest tracker, while the larger Tile Mate—which features a keychain cutout—costs $24.99. Meanwhile, the Tile Pro is priced at $34.99 and is Tile’s premium tracker.

You can also choose the Tile Slim ($34.99), a credit card-shaped tracker designed to slide into your wallet. Tile also offers various bundles if you want to buy multiple tags. For instance, you can get the Tile Sticker 2-pack for $44.99 or the Tile Pro 4-pack for $99.99.

AirTags’ pricing is straightforward and affordable. However, the variety of options you get with Tile means that we’re giving Tile the point here.

Winner: Tile

Find My vs. Tile Network

Many people have questions about the range of Apple AirTags. Apple hasn’t officially revealed AirTags’ Bluetooth range, but after about 30 feet, they will start hopping on Apple’s Find My network.

That’s the same network that helps you locate a lost iPhone or MacBook. The Find My network utilizes hundreds of millions of Apple devices worldwide to give users extremely accurate tracking data almost anywhere.

Tile’s Bluetooth range depends on the model you choose, but all of them have a bigger initial Bluetooth range than AirTags. The Tile Slim, Mate, and Sticker all have a bandwidth of 250 feet (76 meters). Meanwhile, the Tile Pro can stay connected to Bluetooth within around 400 feet (122 meters).

When Tile trackers are outside of Bluetooth spec, they operate on Tile’s proprietary network. Unfortunately, the Tile Network pales in comparison to Apple’s Find My network. While some estimates put almost a billion devices on the Find My network, the Tile Network only has around 35 million devices on it.

It’s also worth noting that while Apple devices come with the Find My app built-in, you need to install Tile’s app on your phone to access the network.

If you plan on primarily tracking with Bluetooth, Tile’s trackers should give you more range. However, if you’re like most people and want to track your items anywhere on the globe, AirTags will be much more accurate. For this reason, we’re giving AirTags the win in this category.

Winner: AirTag

Design Differences

There are lots of reasons to buy Apple’s AirTags. However, keep in mind that Apple designed the AirTag as a one-size-fits-all solution. That means they’re not designed for any one specific tracking need.

While AirTags are small and lightweight, they don’t fit very well into most wallets. Similarly, AirTags don’t come with a built-in keychain loop. That means if you want to hook one to your keys or a carabiner, you’ll need to pay extra for an accessory. On the other hand, Tile designed each of its trackers to do a specific job.

As the name suggests, Tile Sticker has an adhesive back for easy attachment. You can easily stick one on your remote or headphones or in places where it would be difficult to attach an AirTag.

The Tile Mate and Tile Pro have built-in cutouts that let you hook them to your keychain. And because the Tile Slim is shaped like a credit card, it’s a fantastic option for tracking your wallet.

We’re giving Tile another point because you can use its Bluetooth trackers in more specific places.

Winner: Tile

Durability

AirTags and Tile’s trackers are IP67 water-resistant. Both should survive being three feet underwater for up to 30 minutes but aren’t meant to be constantly submerged. Remember that waterproof and water-resistant mean two different things.

With this water resistance rating, AirTags and Tile trackers can withstand rain and splashes without too many problems.

Both AirTags and Tile trackers are durable and long-lasting. However, all of Tile’s trackers are made of plastic, while AirTags have a plastic and stainless steel construction. That should give AirTags a leg-up when it comes to durability.

Winner: AirTag

Pet Tracking

Officially, AirTags are only for tracking your physical items and not pets. But that hasn’t stopped some people from trying.

AirTags are light and compact, meaning they won’t be too heavy for most pets. However, you should remember that they will automatically play a sound if they’re separated from their paired iPhone for too long. That sound could distress your pet.

Tile markets its products as great options for pet tracking. The Tile Sticker and Tile Mate work great as attachments to pet collars. And unlike AirTags, Tile trackers don’t automatically play a sound or ping nearby iPhones. That means pet thieves are less likely to notice they’re being tracked, and your pet is less likely to become distressed in challenging situations.

Because Tile has created features designed specifically for pets, it wins in this category. If you plan to use a Bluetooth tracker with your pet, read these tips for attaching trackers to your pet.

Winner: Tile

Safety Measures

Although AirTags are one of the most innovative Apple products of the 21st century, they have also been a huge PR nightmare for Apple. There have been dozens of police reports involving AirTag stalking, and in March 2024, the Los Angeles Times reported that a class action lawsuit against Apple would proceed.

Since the initial AirTags release, Apple has released several updates to make AirTags safer. AirTags now play a louder sound if they get separated from their owner, and they send messages to nearby iPhones if they’re within range for too long.

Unlike AirTags, Tile trackers won’t automatically play a sound if separated from their owner. However, Tile did integrate a feature called Scan and Secure into its mobile app. So, if you think someone may be using a Tile to stalk you, Scan and Secure lets you search for any trackers that may be nearby.

Most of the bad press surrounding smart trackers has targeted AirTags. However, Apple has strongly committed to making AirTags safer, while Tile is still largely playing catch up. Despite the controversies with AirTags, Apple currently offers better safety features.

Winner: AirTag

Which Bluetooth Tracker Is Right for You?

To quickly summarize, below is a table of how AirTags and Tile’s trackers compare in key areas:

If we tally up the scores for each section, AirTags and Tile trackers received three points each, and there wasn’t much between them. Tile’s trackers are better for versatility and use with pets, while AirTags have durability and the more popular Find My network going for them (even if the Bluetooth range is much less than Tile).

Since AirTags’ one-size-fits-all nature doesn’t work well in wallets, and you also need an accessory to clip them to anything, you should pick Tile if you have specific needs for your smart tags. On the other hand, AirTags are great if you want an ultra-powerful tracker that’s easy to use.

Using a password manager is vital to keeping your accounts secure. How else are you going to remember thirty different strong and unique passwords for each service you use?

Bitwarden and 1Password are two of the top-rated password managers, so I’ve tested them hands-on to determine which password manager is better and which one you should use to keep your accounts safe.

Security Features

When choosing the safest password manager, security features are essential. How do Bitwarden and 1Password compare with each other when it comes to security?

Bitwarden

Bitwarden uses zero-knowledge encryption, meaning that in the event of a security breach, the information that hackers obtain about you would be useless. They don’t store any password-related data, and they have no way of accessing your passwords. Bitwarden also uses open-source security, meaning that bugs and other potential threats are swiftly dealt with.

When you use Bitwarden as your password manager or generator, you can also enable two-factor authentication by going to Account Settings > Security > Two-step login and choosing how you want to verify your identity. If you want to set up a hardware security key, follow these steps but scroll down to FIDO2 WebAuthn.

You can also use Bitwarden Send to share sensitive files via a secure link. Moreover, Bitwarden has encrypted export settings to ensure that your data remains protected. Enterprise subscribers can use single sign-on (SSO).

1Password

1Password offers AES-256-bit encryption for your passwords, and you also get a secret key for all your devices. The secret key works similarly to zero-knowledge encryption in the sense that even if hackers breach 1Password’s systems, they still can’t access your data. 1Password claims that the secret key is “infeasible to guess no matter how much money or computing power an attacker has available”.

To ensure peace of mind, 1Password sends you notifications whenever a breach occurs. Moreover, you can only use 1Password in safe browsers and on websites where you’ve saved your login details.

1Password also has a Secure Remote Password (SRP) feature, which means that your passwords aren’t shared anywhere online. As a result, it’s much harder for hackers to gain access to your login credentials.

Like Bitwarden, 1Password offers hardware security key support if you want an extra layer of security. To activate this:

1. Go to your name > My Profile > More Actions.

   

2. Select Manage Two-Factor Authentication.

   

3. Tap Add a Security Key and enter the code.

   

Another handy security feature that 1Password has is Travel Mode, which removes vaults not marked as safe from your devices when away from home. You can activate this via the My Profile section.

While Bitwarden has a strong base of security features, we’re giving the point to 1Password for its advanced tools like Travel Mode.

Winner: 1Password

Password Organization, Management, and Generation

You can keep your passwords safe in several ways, and 1Password and Bitwarden are great options. But how do these two password managers compare when it comes to organization, management, and password generation?

Bitwarden

Bitwarden has an easy-to-use password storage solution that lets you easily add or generate new login codes. You can also pick which folder your passwords are in, along with adding usernames and uniform resource identifiers (URIs).

If you need to add notes to each password you store in Bitwarden, you have a field to do that. Furthermore, you can use custom keys and, if you’re a Premium subscriber, authenticator keys. Once you’ve added new passwords, you’ll find them in the Vaults section. For frequently visited websites, you can add your login credentials as favorites.

If you use secure notes, you should read this guide on how to safely store sensitive information in Bitwarden.

1Password

1Password has a comprehensive password organization and generation tool. Select New Vault and customize your details before commencing.

Once you’ve tapped the + icon, you can choose Password and enter your login credentials and the web address. Like Bitwarden, you also have the option to add passwords as favorites if you’d like.

To organize your passwords better, 1Password lets you add labels and notes. You can store details for plenty of other things, too, like credit cards and your social security number.

While 1Password is better for organizing non-password-related amenities, we’re specifically comparing Bitwarden and 1Password as password managers. Since both are very similar in this area, we’re giving them a point each.

Winner: Tie

Browser and Device Support

1Password and Bitwarden aren’t just available on desktop devices. To ensure that you’re covered everywhere you want to log in, it’s time to compare browser and device support.

Bitwarden

Bitwarden is available on Windows, Linux, Mac, iOS, and Android. You can access your login details by signing into the Bitwarden website on your computer. iOS and Android apps are available from the App Store and Google Play. Bitwarden also has desktop apps for Mac, Linux, and Windows.

Download: Bitwarden for iOS | Android | Mac | Linux | Windows (Free, in-app purchases available)

Bitwarden also has web browser extensions for each of the following:

At the time of writing in March 2024, Bitwarden was also working on a DuckDuckGo extension for Mac. If you use Chrome and you’re struggling to remember your password, consider using these Chrome password extensions.

1Password

1Password has web and desktop apps for Windows, Mac, and Linux. You can also download the password manager and generator on your iOS or Android device. 1Password has a CLI tool.

Download: 1Password for Windows | Mac | Linux (.deb) | Linux (.rpm) | iOS | Android | CLI (Free, in-app purchases available)

While 1Password doesn’t have as many web browsers as Bitwarden, it does have a reasonable selection that’ll be more than enough for most users. You can use 1Password browsers on:

We’re giving Bitwarden the point here as it’s available in more browsers. However, the differences are marginal for the average user.

Winner: Bitwarden

Pricing

Bitwarden and 1Password have different pricing options, and we’ll break down your options in easily digestible formats below.

Bitwarden

Bitwarden has two pricing hierarchies: Personal and Business. If you choose a paid option, you’ll pay with annual billing. The free version has unlimited devices and password storage, but you can add file attachments and get security reports with Premium. Meanwhile, Families has unlimited sharing, six premium accounts, and other helpful features.

Below is a breakdown of Bitwarden’s Personal pricing plans:

Bitwarden’s Business plans are Team and Enterprise, but you can also get a customized subscription if necessary. Below are the prices for Bitwarden Business (both are annual subscriptions):

1Password

1Password doesn’t have a free plan, but you can get a 14-day free trial before committing to a subscription. Families offers up to five members, Individuals gives unlimited devices and 1GB of storage for a single user, and Teams Starter Pack offers risk detection. Meanwhile, 1Password Business lets you integrate with Slack and other apps.

Below is a pricing breakdown for 1Password’s subscriptions:

Apple’s AirTags are capable of making noise under different circumstances. For instance, you may have connected it to your iPhone or located an unknown AirTag in Find My. Keep reading to discover all the reasons behind your AirTag beeping or chirping.

Your AirTag’s Battery Is Connected

When you connect a battery to your AirTag(s), you’ll hear a higher-pitched chime that soon alters to a lower frequency. Despite being at different volumes, the two chimes sound the same. You’ll also hear this noise when you replace your AirTag’s battery.

When you first purchase an AirTag, your tracker will play the same sound once you can set it up as it will when a battery is connected. So, if you’re wondering why your new AirTag is making noise, that’s probably why.

If you don’t know how long you have until you have to replace your AirTag battery, you can read our guide on checking your AirTag’s battery level.

You’ve Set Up Your AirTag

It usually doesn’t take too long to set up your AirTags, and you’ll hear a shorter chime once the process completes.

Once you’ve set up your AirTags, you can play sounds from the Find My app whenever you need to find the item you’ve set up your tracker with. You can learn all about it in our AirTags explained guide.

An Unknown AirTag Is Moving With You